Can soil compete with hydro yields? Please read

Hydro more efficient but have u seen the costs of some of those sexy under current systems and the like? Craziness xD

Rrog said:

I'm not discussing taste or health. I'm saying that your atomic characterization of both systems being the same is in error.

While a molecule is certainly a molecule, it's all about how the plant got the molecule. If it was provided naturally by microbial action, then you've included the microbes in the deal and you get all the benefits associated with this relationship. Increased immune response, resistance to insect predation, full nutritional interaction, etc.

When the molecule is provided by a bottle-fed routine, you have removed the role of the microbe, and you've removed their benefits as well.

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I think your confusing me with someone, but that's OK. I never said a molecule is a molecule. I know the difference between long chain organics and short chain salts. You don't have to preach the benefits to me, as I said in my first post in this thread or maybe the one after that I prefer to grow in soil, hand mix my soil, and like organic nutrients. However there is no problem growing with chems. It's just a differant way to go. It's harder to get good results using salts in my opinion, but offers larger yields when done right with equal quality.
I like long chain organics that break down over time, I like not having to worry I'll burn my plants. I only entered this discussion because you and others were way off when bashing hydro and chemical nutrients.

growingforfun said:

This is the indoor gardening section so I'm assuming that it's talking about: "I'm pondering whether a dense SOG (4 plants per sqft), grown in soil, and flipped to flower after the clones root could compete with hydro yields. Basically, I would be making up for the low soil yields by cramming in a bunch of fast flowering indicas. What are your thoughts?"

In the space of his tables can he cram enough plants into a space to make up for the decrease in yield going from hydro to soil.

Then the convo changed into hydro is evil and can't grow plants and only organics grow stuff

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Oops, sorry! I just clicked on 'new posts' and saw the question, forgive me, still a little new to the forum and didn't realize the section it was in.

I'm very new to growing myself, been around a few grows in my time by never did one myself until now. That said, in an indoor cramped space just from my limited personal experience, hydro would probably be my choice for higher and quicker yields as long as I have all the issues that go along with hydro worked out ahead of time (increased humidity/PM problems, solution to changing reservoirs easily, chiller for reservoir to avoid root/heat issues, chemical nutes over organic, etc).

Soil provides a much larger buffer for mistakes than hydro. I seems on the forums many problems are hydro issues. I dont worry about pH, ppm, measuring nutes, water temps, pumps, water leaks. When I put a clone into soil I am pretty much guaranteed a harvest.

Dr.Nick Riviera said:

once you start growing with organic soil and LED lights, you have to move to san francisco and start smelling your own farts.

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Don't forget lighting your bowl with a magnifying glass! Lol

Jaybodankly said:

Soil provides a much larger buffer for mistakes than hydro. I seems on the forums many problems are hydro issues. I dont worry about pH, ppm, measuring nutes, water temps, pumps, water leaks. When I put a clone into soil I am pretty much guaranteed a harvest.

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I agree with the buffering ability of soil, but personally I test for pH, ppm of nutes, tds of source water, water temp (don't want to use 50 degree cold water when watering) before I pour it into my soil. The pH of my Roots Organic recipe (the companies recipe) leaves me with a pH of around 4.0 before I adjust it to feed.

My post was addressed to Nirod, that's why I quoted him, not the OP.

And I'd recommend rain water or RO water in natural soil. If you're bottle feeding and the "soil" is simply a medium, then I have no water recommendation.

MissyGoddess said:

I agree with the buffering ability of soil, but personally I test for pH, ppm of nutes, tds of source water, water temp (don't want to use 50 degree cold water when watering) before I pour it into my soil. The pH of my Roots Organic recipe (the companies recipe) leaves me with a pH of around 4.0 before I adjust it to feed.

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I've used roots organics extensively, your not actually sposed to adjust the pH, you let it sit over night with an air stone if possible and it will adjust itself

growingforfun said:

I've used roots organics extensively, your not actually sposed to adjust the pH, you let it sit over night with an air stone if possible and it will adjust itself

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I used an MP40 powerhead to mix my nutes in a rubbermaid for a minimum of 24 hours. Did 30 hours last week and used a Hanna GrowChek meter that I just calibrated with Ph and TDS solutions, and pH was 3.8 using 0 TDS RO/DI water as the source.

I am using this link for feeding, choosing the roots organic line, 2 week veg, last week was week 1 of veg feeding on the chart.
http://aurorainnovations.com/feeding_schedule.html

MissyGoddess said:

I used an MP40 powerhead to mix my nutes in a rubbermaid for a minimum of 24 hours. Did 30 hours last week and used a Hanna GrowChek meter that I just calibrated with Ph and TDS solutions, and pH was 3.8 using 0 TDS RO/DI water as the source.

I am using this link for feeding, choosing the roots organic line, 2 week veg, last week was week 1 of veg feeding on the chart.
http://aurorainnovations.com/feeding_schedule.html

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Seems really odd to me but I guess your doing it right

What's the ph of your water before adding nutes? I don't think I've ever had it as low as 3.8 even on heavy Chem nutes let alone first/second week of veg strength nutes...


I also use tap water an if it feels lukewarm to my hand it's good nuff for the plants

Ph of the water before using it is 6.8. I was a little shocked myself at the low pH of the nutes, I thought the recipe would at least get it close to the correct pH. Also the veg week 1 recipe is very different than say flower week 1, a lot of different nutes involved which could probably leave you with very different pH readings after mixing. That's just my guess since this is all new to me.

MissyGoddess said:

I used an MP40 powerhead to mix my nutes in a rubbermaid for a minimum of 24 hours. Did 30 hours last week and used a Hanna GrowChek meter that I just calibrated with Ph and TDS solutions, and pH was 3.8 using 0 TDS RO/DI water as the source.

I am using this link for feeding, choosing the roots organic line, 2 week veg, last week was week 1 of veg feeding on the chart.
http://aurorainnovations.com/feeding_schedule.html

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Holy shit that's an expensive water mixer you have there. I have one in my salt tank works great and keeps the heat out.

jay5coat said:

Holy shit that's an expensive water mixer you have there. I have one in my salt tank works great and keeps the heat out.

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I just tore down all my reef tanks after running them for 28 years when Cali legalized the plant for rec. That is why I am using a lot of aquarium equipment on my grow now.

MissyGoddess said:

I agree with the buffering ability of soil, but personally I test for pH, ppm of nutes, tds of source water, water temp (don't want to use 50 degree cold water when watering) before I pour it into my soil. The pH of my Roots Organic recipe (the companies recipe) leaves me with a pH of around 4.0 before I adjust it to feed.

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I add a lot of worms to my vermi-soil mix. Earthworms, as the soil passes thru their bodies it adjusts the pH to neutral.
This is not to say I dont or havent tested. Everyone needs a baseline. Just that the many times I have checked. pH is stable just a shade below 7. For awhile I thought my pH tester was broken. LOL In soil pH gradually shifts. Except when you start adding bottled nutes. Cold water on your plants is for savages.