First of all I am a complete beginner to making concentrates and I have been told that the best thing to do when starting out buying the equiptment is to buy a complete set which I have attached in this thread.
When extracting with LPG I agree that it is best to start out with the proper equipment. I don’t agree that a closed and jacketed open blast column is the best choice, when you consider the alternate choices and surrounding issues.
Here is a closed loop system that I built for $625 USD that you would be better served with, though you would have to add the column jacket:
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-13-lil-terp-passive-extractor
There are also issues with Mystery Oil when open blasting:
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/8-essential-oil-safety/8-12-butane-propane-mystery-oil
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-9-alkane-extraction/9-4-9-2-propane-butane-extractions/9-4-9-2-3-butane-mystery-oil-removal-using-a-terpenator
My experience with long soaks is that it the increase in yield is primarily the longer chain non target constituents like C-30 plant waxes, C-40 carotene, C-55 pheophytin. I prefer a flow through so as to keep the boundary layers washed away and minimize contact time.
And from my understanding all that is missing is the Pyrex dishes, butane, heating Pad and i need to get a razor blade, am I correct in thinking in this?
Here are threads on safety and open blasting, where you can see some ancillaries using hot water instead of an electrical hot pad for safety reasons.
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-9-alkane-extraction/9-4-9-2-propane-butane-extractions/9-4-9-2-1-butane-safety-and-social-responsibility
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-11-open-blast
Also I am now starting to look at videos and methods on how to actually start making it and again from what I've seen I am going to start by blasting my trim/bud and then use a Pyrex dish to collect all the Bho which will then already have started to react, I then use my Heating pad to evaoprate all the butane.
As noted above, please use hot water instead of an electric heating pad for this step.
Once that is done i will scrape onto my Bho mat which I will then put into my Vacuum Chamber. This is where I Really need help/advice if this process is correct what temperatures do i need to have my heating Pad when evaporating the Butane,
How long does this process usually take, How long do i need to have it in the Vacuum Chamber & How exactly do I use the Vacuum Chamber & Pump because I am struggling to get timings and temps and how to manually use it.
Thanks in advance anyone who comments. hopefully I master it soon
Here are the FDA residual solvent standards, as well as an FDA article recognizing butane and propane as GRAS, or Generally Regarded As Safe.
https://www.fda.gov/media/71737/download
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-10-n-butane-isobutane-and-propane-rated-gras-by-fda
That brings us to how low do you want to go? FDA standards for a Class III solvent like butane and propane are 5000 ppm, but at 5000 ppm you can still taste them. Processors typically shoot for less than 10% of maximum or from about 500 ppm down to none detected at the cut off.
I don’t remember vacuum purging open blast, because by the time we started doing that we were already using closed loops and making cotton candy, which is already partially purged. In that condition we were under 10% of FDA standard within 4 hours.
https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/component/content/article/2-uncategorised/174-9-4-14-4-the-cotton-candy-extraction-technique?Itemid=101
Our technique is to melt the concentrate into a thin layer on parchment paper at about 115F and once fully molten, start the vacuum. When the boiling gets too violent, hold it at that vacuum level until it calms down and then continue until there are no more solvent bubbles present at -29.5” Hg.