Colloidal Silver while hairs are showing

Ok so I have two flowering clones that I need to make feminized seeds from. Strawberry Blue and Full Moon. All the guides I read say to start spraying 2 weeks before flower but I fucked my first batch up. Didn't keep it in the dark and fell asleep and woke up to the silver heavily (tarnished) or whatever its called when they get all gunked up. All my airstones I have are used for teas so I don't want to stick those in my colloidal silver solitons so I just wipe them off and stir it every 30-40 minutes or so. In a day the solution was brown and have residue all over the inside of the jar. I also strained with cheese cloth instead of coffee filters so a lot of shit was still in it.

I have more going now, at 11ppm still looking nice and clear. One of my clones has hairs and is gonna start making buds pretty soon. The other is a full sativa so it's hair aren't there yet I'm sure I can get away with that one. But as for the budding plant is it too late? I plan to start spraying tomorrow which is when the solution will be probably be finished. They are about 2-3 weeks into 12/12. One week full 12/12 and two weeks of cutting from 18/6 to 12/12 by 30 minute intervals per day.

Also each plant has 4 nodes and a top. Everywhere I read says to spray entire plant and collect pollen. What I want to do is spray only the bottom two nodes and leave the top two nodes and the top untouched. Then put and open topped dome around the plant so pollen doesn't blow around and self pollinate then this way. Will it work?

And lastly, everyone is saying that 50ppm is best but other have claimed that 10-15 ppm will work. Has anyone made this work with 10-15 ppm? I don't know if these batteries will last til it hits 40ppm and they are like $5 each. Don't want to buy more if it isn't necessary.

Thnx for any replies

Anyone? Sorry if this has been asked alot.....
Also the collidoil silve i made turned yellow...is that a problems. Currently at ppm 17. I've been using it anyway. But am i wasting my time?

I'm new to breeding but have ordered this yesterday to try
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=162158607245

I think if you are making it yourself, shoot for 15 ppm but if you are buying it premade I would go 50 ppm. Spray one branch only, not the whole plant. You are spraying one of the plants? When you say node, are they branches yet?

bizarrojohnson said:

Anyone? Sorry if this has been asked alot.....
Also the collidoil silve i made turned yellow...is that a problems. Currently at ppm 17. I've been using it anyway. But am i wasting my time?

Click to expand...

Yellow CS is normal,, it shows you made a good batch actually

bizarrojohnson said:

I don't know if these batteries will last

Click to expand...

get a power supply,, they dont cost much,, and you can have a constant power supply to make CS with,

NaturalFarmer said:

I think if you are making it yourself, shoot for 15 ppm but if you are buying it premade I would go 50 ppm. Spray one branch only, not the whole plant. You are spraying one of the plants? When you say node, are they branches yet?

Click to expand...

No they are not branches. Like 4 inch tall clones. No branches just a single top cola. When I say nodes I mean where the buds appear in between the leaf and stem. Not spraying the top cola just everything underneath. I will post pics when I get out of work.

NaturalFarmer said:

I think if you are making it yourself, shoot for 15 ppm but if you are buying it premade I would go 50 ppm. Spray one branch only, not the whole plant. You are spraying one of the plants? When you say node, are they branches yet?

Click to expand...

Why is that? Is premade stuff not good quality? Or do u dilute premade colloidal silver?

bizarrojohnson said:

Why is that? Is premade stuff not good quality? Or do u dilute premade colloidal silver?

Click to expand...

I personally feel the store bought stuff is crap and if you make it your self you have to insure your silver is real , I have started buying my silver bars fro sunshine that has the hologram on them SI security

I don't believe the silver stays in suspension for all that long and I would assume even a month old product of 50 ppm would be less. I bought a generator on eBay a few years ago that uses .999 silver wire for $40 I think and it even came with two spray bottles.


The premade stuff could be good or not.....who knows? I'm sure most use silver of some grade and would probably work though.

Tim Fox said:

get a power supply,, they dont cost much,, and you can have a constant power supply to make CS with,

Click to expand...

2nd'd.

High volt/low amp is supposed to be better for generation (I use an old camcorder 27v @ 400-500mA transformer) as higher voltage is supposed to make smaller particles.

Easiest way to make sure you're really brewing good clean CS is to buy a couple $5 silver Canadian maple leaf coins (9999 pure) and use one for anode and one for cathode.

A hard and fast measurement (if you have a laser level/pointer/etc.) is to shine a laser through the container (if transparent) using the Tyndall effect since a TDS meter measures dissolved solids.

"The bottom line is that a TDS meter is specifically designed to measure the level of total dissolved solids in a liquid solution by reacting to the electrolytic conductivity in the solution created by the dissolved solids. The more dissolved solids in the water, the more electrolytic conductivity can be measured.
And the only thing added during the colloidal silver-making process is suspended silver particulates such as silver ions, silver oxide or metallic silver. No dissolved solids"

Shine a laser through pure clean water and you'll see nothing.
The more suspended Ag in your water the more you'll see the laser beam in the water.

That said, I just use it as an antiseptic, but will be trying the gender switching capability soon as I have some strains I'd like to fem.

Strawberry Blue


Full Moon


Both are flowering. Strawberry. Blue has tiny buds forming. Full Moon has hairs growing. I'm spraying everything under the tops and the node beneath. The hairs on the strawberry blue are turning brown. I hope that means that it's working. The unsprayed hairs still look healthy.

Oh and bc the plants are so small whenever I spray them a lot of the water hits the soil. I grow organically so will this kill my microbes?

bizarrojohnson said:

<snip>
Oh and bc the plants are so small whenever I spray them a lot of the water hits the soil. I grow organically so will this kill my microbes?

Click to expand...

Since silver is antibacterial it will kill microbes, but only on the top of the soil if you're not drenching the plant.

Next time, wrap some plastic around the base of the plant, spray, shake excess from the plant, unwrap, and on to the next.

choomer said:

Since silver is antibacterial it will kill microbes, but only on the top of the soil if you're not drenching the plant.

Next time, wrap some plastic around the base of the plant, spray, shake excess from the plant, unwrap, and on to the next.

Click to expand...

Thanks didn't even think of that. I keep Saran Wrap around too.

I'm curios to why you are not spraying the full clone? Do you plan on pollinating the top of the plant or another clone

budolskie said:

I'm curios to why you are not spraying the full clone? Do you plan on pollinating the top of the plant or another clone

Click to expand...

I plan on pollinating the top. No more room for clones. Have 3 5 gallon pots in this cabinet

Ah I see, I'm using my old veg tent I was just planning on spraying 1 full clone small and collecting the pollen then adding to select branches in my flower cab

choomer said:

2nd'd.

High volt/low amp is supposed to be better for generation (I use an old camcorder 27v @ 400-500mA transformer) as higher voltage is supposed to make smaller particles.

Easiest way to make sure you're really brewing good clean CS is to buy a couple $5 silver Canadian maple leaf coins (9999 pure) and use one for anode and one for cathode.

A hard and fast measurement (if you have a laser level/pointer/etc.) is to shine a laser through the container (if transparent) using the Tyndall effect since a TDS meter measures dissolved solids.

"The bottom line is that a TDS meter is specifically designed to measure the level of total dissolved solids in a liquid solution by reacting to the electrolytic conductivity in the solution created by the dissolved solids. The more dissolved solids in the water, the more electrolytic conductivity can be measured.
And the only thing added during the colloidal silver-making process is suspended silver particulates such as silver ions, silver oxide or metallic silver. No dissolved solids"

Shine a laser through pure clean water and you'll see nothing.
The more suspended Ag in your water the more you'll see the laser beam in the water.

That said, I just use it as an antiseptic, but will be trying the gender switching capability soon as I have some strains I'd like to fem.

Click to expand...

I AGREE with Everything you said,, very well done,,,

the power supply I purchased is a 30volt mean well ,

I am building This Colloidal Silver Generator

in my humble opinion this is now the best way to ensure we are purchasing Real Silver,,

Here is a video that shows how the silver market is being flooed with Fake Silver,, including Fake Canada Silver coins

I hope this helps everyone

Tim Fox said:

I AGREE with Everything you said,, very well done,,,

Click to expand...

Right back @ you sir! You bring up a major concern.

Tim Fox said:

<snip>
in my humble opinion this is now the best way to ensure we are purchasing Real Silver,,

Here is a video that shows how the silver market is being flooed with Fake Silver,, including Fake Canada Silver coins

I hope this helps everyone

Click to expand...

I was worried about this too when I made my 1st purchase.
I use an old unproven method of the sound it makes when striking other metal or glass. I've always had the ear for it as when I worked behind a counter I could always hear when someone paid w/ a pre-'65 US 90% "junk silver" coinage when it would be dumped into the drawer and would try to "buy" it for face value out of the drawer ASAP before it became the change of someone else.

It's not scientific, but it has never failed me.
If you have pre-65' dimes, quarters, half dollars, silver dollars (nickels won't work unless you have ?'42-'44? nickels) drop them on some plate glass and compare the sound to '65 and newer coinage.
Once you hear it you'll know.

Truth be told I did do the magnet test and noticed how it reacts like a magnet does when you drop it down a copper tube (look it up on UTube) as that's always fascinated me.

choomer said:

Right back @ you sir! You bring up a major concern.

I was worried about this too when I made my 1st purchase.
I use an old unproven method of the sound it makes when striking other metal or glass. I've always had the ear for it as when I worked behind a counter I could always hear when someone paid w/ a pre-'65 US 90% "junk silver" coinage when it would be dumped into the drawer and would try to "buy" it for face value out of the drawer ASAP before it became the change of someone else.

It's not scientific, but it has never failed me.
If you have pre-65' dimes, quarters, half dollars, silver dollars (nickels won't work unless you have ?'42-'44? nickels) drop them on some plate glass and compare the sound to '65 and newer coinage.
Once you hear it you'll know.

Truth be told I did do the magnet test and noticed how it reacts like a magnet does when you drop it down a copper tube (look it up on UTube) as that's always fascinated me.

Click to expand...

Have you heard anything about this
apparently low voltage constant DC electrolosis only produces Ionic CS,, where are HVAC produces a true Colloidal Silver solution,
HVAC Colloidal Silver

There are three generally accepted methods for making high voltage alternating current silver solutions;

1. Using two immersed or wet electrodes as in the LVDC process. My personal experience with this process was not satisfactory in that the PPM limit was about 9 part per million and the CS has a tendency to turn yellow as agglomeration set in, and drop-out occurred.

2. Using one immersed or wet electrode and the other being positioned slightly above the surface of the distilled water. In this manner when the high voltage was applied the water would cone up around the electrode. Hence the name "cone method." It produces CS very quickly but it has a rather strong T.E. indicating considerable particulate material.

3. Using on immersed or wet electrode and the other positioned about 3/8" above the water surface for a 12 kv NST (1/8" gap per 4 kv). Upon application of the high voltage an arc would develop between the water surface and the electrode, hence the name "HVAC ARC." The color of the arc is derived from the gas ambient in the head space of the brew cell. Air gives a reddish color to the arc and a CO2 gas ambient gives a blue color.