correct time to cure SEEDS?

i've tried and tried to find this info to no avail using search engines and even some breeding guides, but can't find out how long is long enough to cure MJ seeds. i have a bunch of crosses i want to test, but would like to make sure i give my seeds long enough before trying to test them as i don't have an unlimited supply and yet again i had to harvest early after forgetting to turn my fan on one night for a couple hours.

most of the seeds i bred were about 1 month old at harvest and looked fully mature with black speckles on most strains unlike the pale greens in my first breeding session.

i'm really keen to see how my C99 x A11 sprayed sweet haze, jack's cleaner 2, sativa trans love & even masterkush turned out as i'm looking to keep breeding the best i've made so far with even better strains. i'm using a JC2 male next time.

i was really excited when i saw how resinous & fruity my super cali haze x C99 turned out and would like to see how it bred back with C99 x A11 too. that should preserve the fruitier joey weed C99 pheno some for making quick hazes in the future.

if anyone knows how long seeds need to be cured (there's another word for it i think that i've forgotten... seasoned?) i would appreciate that info a lot.

24 hours. dude i collect mine out of fresh buds put them in a baggie with label (small ziplock 1gram baggies) leave the top open for 24 hours then close the top and put them in a medicine container with one of those silicon things.
they really dont have to be cured i planted mine today and collected them 3-4 days ago purplexBgum

in the fridge for a week then bingo....

i thought about that too since the fridge is dry, but i wonder if that can kill some seeds that would otherwise make it..

i'd imagine seeds are well preserved in a fridge actually. i know at least some kinds of seeds actually get frozen and many people put MJ plants in their fridge for "stasis".

i thought there was some period of time needed for seeds to "germinate" or whatever when they're harvested. i could have sworn that they need a "dry cycle" before they'll pop. i wanted to try cloning and controlled paintbrush breeding next grow. i tossed a bunch of extra beans in water recently and nothing popped in the water at least.

thanks for the info. i guess i'll just have to keep testing beans until something pops like my C99 BXes eventually did along with a haze skunk x C99 and a super cali haze x C99. i bet seeds really need more than a month after fertilization for full viability.

these seeds are designed to lie unde snow during winter then pop up when it gets warm in the spring.

all you really need to do is keep them cool and dry, and plant them when you want. i preferr to let my seeds (of all types) dry over the winter indoors in a shallow dish, then start them in late winter indoors before planting them outside after the last frost (or for photoperiod sensitive plants after the vernal equinox)

this works for cantalope, musk melon, watermelon, bell peppers, tomatoes, cilantro (coriander), basil, thyme, all forms of lettuce, onions garlic carrots, etc etc etc... juicy or wet seeds (corn, beans etc...) need to dry thoroughly on the plant before harvest.

most seeds are viable from the moment the seeds are fully dried out after removal from the calyxes. 24-36 hours. longer storage overwinter is solely to ensure the timing for my spring plantings.

hazey grapes said:

if anyone knows how long seeds need to be cured (there's another word for it i think that i've forgotten... seasoned?) i would appreciate that info a lot.

Click to expand...

FWIW, when Spice Brothers Seeds were around, FET (the breeder) would discuss curing the seeds for 2-3 months before packaging.

Simon

I harvested a hermie a couple of weeks ago. I put the trim in a cardboard box under my bed to dry. Got it out 5 days ago to make hash. I ran it all thru the bubble bags and dumped what was left on the compost pile. I now have about 50 little plants popping up. I don't think the seed "curing" is very complicated. I keep mine in the fridge, and I have at least 90% germination.

i noticed your making a lot of the mistakes i was making my first few trys at making seeds. ill give you a few pointers. first check my sig take the link to my journal and you can see the purp bud i removed the seeds from then you can seed them cracking a few days later, i will have pics when they sprout in a few days.

second the seeds dont need to cure, just air dry cool temps, warm temps doesnt matter just dont get them wet(ive had a few seeds just drop out the plant and sprout). store them somewhere dry i like the silicon because it will keep the RH down in whatver container.

thrid remember to let your males "BUST" let em get it all out. the more pollen the better. now you migh have issues with fertility because the pollen you may have used could have been an early realease, wait for the big drop.

fourth but most important when you go to pollinate dont be shy, us alot on one bud, alot of people will say it takes one grain i will tell right now billions of those grains are worthless.(i learned this by sneezing and spraying a bunch of pollen but ended up with only a fewer seeds than i had thought hmmm...)

dont worry about the "cure" so much if your seeds where fertile they would pop right away. i do agree tho aging them will probably give you a higher germination rate, but fresh seeds should be good to go as well as aged ones.

no need for cure sum are set on it -seeds are ready to go when matured
most take 4 to 5 weeks from pollen to mature seeds
i let my seeds dry on saucer on top of frig for 2 days befor i put them away
i collect balls right brfore they open to drop then i put in pill container opened till dry -then shakem -dump over a sift shakem
might be a slight diff in germ % after cure not needed a matter of choice

then in theory, any seeds i've made that are actually viable should be good to go right now as they've been sitting around at least a couple months.

as to pollinating, i've just left my male in with the females and let nature take it's course with a little extra help rubbing my gals up against the male or blowing pollen over the tops of them. next time, i want to cover my male with paper to keep it from spraying and collect pollen for manual brush application to keep a mostly sinsemilla crop. my gals lost way too much energy this time around trying to make seeds while hobbled by SCROG pruning techniques aimed at bud production. i think when i actually DO get to SCROGging, i'm not going to do any pruning if it can be avoided as i view leaves as growth energy, NOT the "energy stealers" as taught in SCROGging. so what if any buds under the net are popcorn? you can still smoke them. i'd rather my plants have as much energy as they can use more than concentrating the energy for bigger buds. the THC profile's way more important than how big the buds are. i always roll my eyes whenever a dealer expects me to be impressed by the size of a cola. a big bud that sucks is useless.

i'm hoping that at least SOME of my seeds are viable, especially the last harvested ones. they look viable. i'd like to start tinkering with them a little and practicing cloning so i'm already started as soon as it's cool enough to turn my lights on. the last grow i did was way too last minute rushed and breeding & pruning are a bad combination.

i plan on taking a pic of my collection. i think the (super)thai skunks had the smallest seeds and the CH9 jacks were the largest. i've been trying to think of some easy and cheap bottle cap tech to take a pic of a dozen or so beans i bred just for fun.

the one's i really want to try the most are:
malawi gold x cindy apollo (almost the malawi gold x C99 cross i always dreamed of, but even better with the genius)
jacks cleaner 2 x cindy apollo (no more than 9 weeks and no less than awesome i'm sure)
sweet haze x cindy apollo (i bet this is better than "average haze" SCH x C99 & trippier)
sativa trans love x cindy apollo (cash cropping haze?)
sour cream x cindy apollo (if some of that taste can be preserved and stone turned down)
C99 BX x cindy apollo
(C99 x super cali haze) x cindy apollo (hazier C99?)
&
red masterkush skunk auto x cindy apollo
i bet that's WAY better than afghani, NL#5 & even skunk #1 for compact breeding. there seemed to be a gold pheno, a more common dark green one and my breeder had bright burgundy bracts, but the buzz for all of them was a passable mid that should get lifted up by the 55 day cinderella apollo cross. that should get close to JW's 45 day time for his C99s. might not be able to clone it, but hopefully i can preserve the trait for future breeding. it would have really been cool if i got a purple pheno. it should also be a pretty universal strain with a mellow high and stone. it's the first thing i've bred where i selected for a pheno though i did bag my C99 BXes by mother with long tall cindy down to shorty 1&2.

i'm really jazzed up about jack's cleaner. THAT is my next male breeder with a side order of C99 x A11, again, from the arctic. that trippy buzz can only improve about almost everything except that crazy IBL stuff the elites are preserving here. even then, it'd speed them up a little without totally funking the THC profile up. malawi gold x JC2 ought to be REALLY nice. and i have agent orange on my shopping list for some citrus vigor and would like to give DNA's lemon skunk a better look. if only kali mist had it's original crushed red pepper flavor intact it would be possible to make a lemon curry haze. lemons lemons lemons. i'm liking lemons and looking at grapefruit and sour grapes. lemon cream pie? maybe one of the simplest flavor phenos to find, but classic & yummy.

only time you have to worry about "curing a seed" is making sure they are fully dry for storage. seeds right out of the melon, tomato, pepper or dope will sprout and die in the jar if you dont dry em first.

wet fruit seeds have to dry before planting or they just mould. herb and grass seeds are generally ready to rock as soon as they get wet in warm temps, right on the mother plant sometimes.

i've had carrots and fennel both germinate their sees while still hanging in the air at the top of the parent plant's flower mass after a late autumn shower.

Where DO you guys keep your seeds? I keep mine in the fridge inside a black mason jar

i like using labelled bags and whenever i can, those little condiment containers you get from fast food joints