DINAFEM Sour Diesel Auto DWC

This Marijuana is grown legally in the state of Colorado by a registered Medical Marijuana Patient, In accordance with Amendment 64 and Amendment 20 of the Colorado Constitution.


The purpose of this thread is NOT to endorse or promote any Companies or their products and equiptment. Instead, this thread is for Growers and Smokers, looking for new growing techniques, (i.e. lights, other equiptment and nutrients) new strains, or advice. I do not claim to be an expert or a professoinal. I will be updating/ posting WEEKLY, if not daily.





What's up guys or gals?! ColoradoGrower here. So lets get started. I, As of the day this was posted, am in the middle of a grow. As the Title says I am growing 3 Sour Diesel Autos, currently 4 weeks into Flowering. The products and equiptment i use are as follows: For nutrients I am using General Hydroponics Flora series and GH full line of nutes and additives, with the addition of Botanicares Aqua Shield.

(as this keeps the benifical microbes from GH Diamond Nectar (humic acids) in check. Without Aqua Shield I experienced slime on the roots and mold on air lines.) [This is why I can not promote or endorse any single Company or Nutrient line.] However in specific combonations of nutrient lines some growers achive "Nute Nirvana."

I am also using 2 Flarescent 2' x 4' 8 bulb T5 lights. (54 watts per HO bulb =='s 432 watts per light.) I have grown Barney's Farm Critical Rapido under these lights and have achived 16.2 Oz. from a single plant! Although it started to flower at wk 6 instead of wk4 and finished at wk 16, (I believe Barneys Farm claims 12 wks from seed to harvest) and grew 4 wks over harvest date, this particular pheno was worth growing. I have grown several of these seeds yet, only 1 plant had yield 1 lb. These are the picture of the plant one day before it was harvested.








So back to my current grow the Sour Diesel Autos. Here are some pics of Sour D Flowering Week 4.











Here is the feeding chart I made in relation to GH DWC expert recirculation. PLEASE NOTE: This feeding chart was made for my methods of growing and may not suit your needs or strain. Tweak it to work best for you and your plants. It took me 4 grows to figure out this feeding chart for most Dinafem autoflower strains.









Sour Diesel Flowering week 5. Nice trichome development!







Here is a mid week update. Flowering week 5 day 4. Starting to fill-in and bud.


 
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I'll sub to this thread too~ Official East Coast Sour Diesel??
Thanks! and this is what Dinafem claims the strains is, "Sour Diesel Auto cannabis seeds by Dinafem Seeds is a cross between a Sour Diesel and a Haze 2.0 Autoflowering. It is a marijuana seed with excellent properties that gives you the possibility to grow the automatic version of the renowned Californian hybrid in a fast way." So i would say its the cali hybrid.
 
Im currently running 1800 ppm and theres no sign of stress or burn so I would like to step it up and add another product. Anyone know of any other hydroponic BLOOM nutes I could add to my feeding chart for these plants?
 

Vumar

Well-Known Member
I will be completely honest with you bro, the less you use the better off you are. I tried a few of the "advanced nutrients" like Kushie Kush and its all garbage (IMO). Main nutes (around equal N-P-K ratios), cal-mag, h202, and root booster is all you need ;). I am by no means an expert but if you check out my Blue Widow thread you can see the benefit of simplicity. (thread from 2012 lol)
 
Funny you mention Advanced nutes because I was thinking about trying one of thier bloom nutes. But I will take your advice and check out your thread! Thanks
 

Vumar

Well-Known Member
bongsmilie ~~ :-| Meh. Healthy plants, I would like to see them under a 1k watt HID or something
 

Cannabadass

Member
Looking good man. I agree with Vumar less is more. I had a very similar setup nutrient wise and grew Bluedream and Train Wreck. The only thing I did different was that I used Bloombastic instead of Kool bloom liquid. 3ml a gallon. Also just FYI AquaSheild is being replaced by HydroGaurd. HydroGaurd is 10x stronger. It's
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens which is in the same Genus as Bacilis Subtilis (auquaSheild) It's a little more expensive but you use less so it's actually cheaper per application. Here is a some info on it. BTW it is also good to foliar if you have PM issues with HydroGuard since it is 100% organic and has anitfungal properties. It also outlives the gestation period of the PM so that's cool. With that being said if your plant has PM it will get it again. (it's like the herpes of cannabis) but it sure beats spraying anything nasty and it can be sprayed late flower since it's organic. And two weeks is two weeks. The only other thing I'd recommend that you'll get a lot of bang for your buck is Pure Blend Tea. Since you are running mainly salts (synthetics) it's good to bump up the smells and aroma's with the organics. When I ran Straight GH I got a big boost in flavors from organics. The shit is like $25 a gallon and that's without a discount so its a no brainer to use for what it does. Don't know why they call it Tea though. There is nothing alive in it. And since it's 100% organic I flush at the end of flower with it to lock in the flavors and my burn is still white/grey with no harshness. I feel like I'm plugging this but hey if it works it works.

Keep up the good grow
 
Howdy Cannabadass, thanks for the great information! I have seen hydroguard a time or two on hydro websites but unfortunately my local grow shops don't carry it. I will be sure to swap products when they get a shipment in after I call and request a few bottles. As for PM Ive been quite lucky and somehow have never had any types of mold issues.*Knock on wood!!* and I will try the pure blend tea, I have seen it several times in the hydro shop and is very cheap!
 
Another Mid-week update. Flowering week 6 day 5. I have just recently noticed 1 day after I change the nutrients (always 5.8 Ph before I add to buckets) It drops to 5.0 - 5.2. I do not believe this is an issue cause I have to add water daily which brings the Ph back up. But I would like to figure out why this is happening, If you think you might have an idea please comment. thanks,,



 

Vumar

Well-Known Member
Your PH changes because your plant is absorbing something from the water (salts in most hydro cases) or because its just taking the water itself. I read a whole article about that specifically.... I will try and find it because I'm rusty on the facts for that answer. :bigjoint: But my tap water comes out at 7.1, after nutes and everything I drop it to 6.2 MAX (I aim for 5.5 expecting a drift) and the next day its 7.5 than after having the city water circulating for 2-3 days it seems to become super sensitive to my PH down. Out of the tap water I can add 1 ML PH down and it might go from 7.1 to 6.7 but if I did that with the same water just 2-3 days out of the tap that same 1 ML PH down would start at 7.1 and drop to 5.5/dramatic low. Anyone experience this? The Chlorine Effect? Nutrients changing PH gradually? /confuse
 
I had the exact same problem in my recirculating dwc. If I try to drop the ph in the res. mid week just a teaspoon will drop it drastically. I assumed it was because you already have a high concentration of the acid (ph down) in the reservoir (even after adding water) so adding just a little will lower ph easier. I have never tried adding it to 2 day old recirculated un phed water tho. But what Im wondering is, if my res is at 6.5 before nute change and The nutes are at 5.8, I would assume that if I changed the water in the buckets it would raise from 5.8 but instead in lowers from 5.8 to 5.0 within an hour of nute change and the plant has not consumed any water.
 
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