DIY COB: what do you use to build your frames?

Traplife · Mar 21, 2016

What do you DIY COBers guys use to mount cpu heat sinks to a frame? a wooden frame? metal frame? is using a metal frame sketch due to the chance to short a circuit? im looking to build a setup to cover a 2x3 area and i know what to buy chip, driver, and cooling wise, im just not sure how to assemble this all together on a suspended unit.

alesh · Mar 21, 2016

Traplife said:
What do you DIY COBers guys use to mount cpu heat sinks to a frame? a wooden frame? metal frame? is using a metal frame sketch due to the chance to short a circuit? im looking to build a setup to cover a 2x3 area and i know what to buy chip, driver, and cooling wise, im just not sure how to assemble this all together on a suspended unit.

I'm quite happy with aluminum angles.

Traplife · Mar 21, 2016

alesh said:
I'm quite happy with aluminum angles.
View attachment 3637236

do you just drill a screw into your heatsinks to connect them?

BOBBY_G · Mar 21, 2016

no reason not to

also re: electrical safety, its much much more safe to have one big ass fixture thats properly grounded than a bunch of isolated little ones (that also should all be grounded)

bicit · Mar 21, 2016

Traplife said:
do you just drill a screw into your heatsinks to connect them?

I marked and drilled holes in the aluminum angle. The alpline 11 plus has mounting holes already, an M3 socket cap machine screw works great.

alesh · Mar 21, 2016

Traplife said:
do you just drill a screw into your heatsinks to connect them?

Yes M3 screws and drilled and tapped holes.

captainmorgan · Mar 21, 2016

For those that want to get fancy.

https://8020.net/

thetr33man · Mar 21, 2016

Im actually kinda confused about why people dont use wood, especially for the individual heatsinks that are becoming popular. Would be very easy to cut holes in plywood and use a router to put an edge on them for the heatsinks/cobs to sit on. Also you could drill a bunch of extra holes and move individual cobs around to focus light where you want, etc. Maybe wood is more of a fire risk, but seems like a very easy to use/versatile material for many people, also cheap.

Jeeyah · Mar 21, 2016

I use aluminum boxes from Bud Industries.

bicit · Mar 21, 2016

captainmorgan said:
For those that want to get fancy.

https://8020.net/

I actually want to build an entire grow room out of that stuff....

thetr33man said:
Im actually kinda confused about why people dont use wood, especially for the individual heatsinks that are becoming popular. Would be very easy to cut holes in plywood and use a router to put an edge on them for the heatsinks/cobs to sit on. Also you could drill a bunch of extra holes and move individual cobs around to focus light where you want, etc. Maybe wood is more of a fire risk, but seems like a very easy to use/versatile material for many people, also cheap.

Aluminum is almost as easy as working with wood. You can cut aluminum angle on a miter saw with the right blade. Drilling and tapping aluminum is a simple operation with many of the same tools. Wood just isn't as sexy without a bunch of extra work finishing it

captainmorgan · Mar 21, 2016

I got some of the 80/20 quick frame stuff and am hoping to have time to cut and put it together by the weekend.

The Dawg · Mar 21, 2016

I'm Old School :hump:

alesh · Mar 22, 2016

captainmorgan said:
For those that want to get fancy.

https://8020.net/

I've been thinking of this or similar system for a while. Seems very useful. Unfortunately it's crazy expensive around there.

VegasWinner · Mar 22, 2016

aluminum channels 3/4X3/4" x3/4"x 2 or 3 , rectangle allows for a lip, a channel, and corner connections, lightweight and easier to drill than wood, with any descent drill bit and 18v drill. create a square and a couple of rails in between and you have a grid to mount your HS to. good luck. peace.

dionysus4 · Mar 22, 2016

alesh said:
I'm quite happy with aluminum angles.
View attachment 3637236

or if u wanna get fancy can use alu square chanels and run ur wiring though- but honestly cable ties do well

Jackaltheonly · Mar 31, 2016

Aluminium angle or channel is your best bet for a lighting fixture. It just has so many advantages over other materials(strength, weight, thermal conductivity, etc). However many materials would do fine for housing.

Just really depends on your design and financial means as to what materials you could use.

Personally I've used aluminum channel. A break and some high gauge sheet metal would be another substantially awesome idea.

cookie stash · Jan 7, 2017

Will this 3/4 inch aluminum angle work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Angle-with-1-8-in-Thick-801717/204273996

or does it have to be 1 inch?

qballizhere · Jan 7, 2017

cookie stash said:
Will this 3/4 inch aluminum angle work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-48-in-Aluminum-Angle-with-1-8-in-Thick-801717/204273996

or does it have to be 1 inch?

Yes it will work but i would recommend https://www.metals4uonline.com/aluminum-angle-6061-3_4thsx3_4thsx1_8th
cant beat the price of the value packs

NapalmZen · Jan 7, 2017

https://www.rollitup.org/t/my-new-diy-grow-light.931434/

aluminum angle.

^^pics are in my thread above.^^ if you look carefully, you will see that it is grounded. using aluminum makes fixing mistakes easy as well. i put one of the cob assemblies in the wrong place and had to open the holes with a dremel to mount them in the correct place. it doesn't look the best, but it's cheap as shit and does the job.

and yes, i drilled strait through the fins with a 1/8th drill bit and then screwed the assemblies together.

Mellodrama · Jan 8, 2017

I bought a Timber Kit. I was inclined to use wood just because I'm more familiar with it and have more tools. Ended up buying 1" X 1" X 1/8" aluminum rail at the local metal shop. Used a Porta-A-Band to cut the rail, then a few clamps and a drill press to drill holes for screws. With clamps and a carpenter's square I could drill the corners so they fit together snugly and at the correct angle.

I'm glad I went with metal instead of wood. If I had used wood, it would have been something like 1" X 2". Definitely wouldn't have used plywood, because plywood blocks airflow.

Timber's pin sinks came with four extra screws, placed in the four holes that are on the pin sink faces. I took those screws out, slipped 1/8" X 1" fender washers (100 count boxes at HD) under them, then re-installed. If you place your rails correctly (for me it was 2 7/8" apart) the fender washers will clamp down onto the aluminum rails when the screws are tightened a little bit. Even if you leave the screws somewhat loose, there's no way the sinks will fall off the rails. It's very handy to move the COB's back & forth along the rails.

DIY COB: what do you use to build your frames?

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