DIY F-Strip Build - Sanity Check!

Randomblame said:

I see no problem with using two different drivers.
The HLG-120H-C1050B maxed out at +155w, maybe more(up to 170w). You could switch the HLG-80 completely off and still have more than 30w/sft, which is IMO perfect with F-strips. The 5000k side can be used for vegging but it would also help to keep the stretch under control. A useful feature if your are a haze/sativa fan.
Pretty sure it would work well!

But why not using a HLG-150H-48B and a HLG-80H-48B and parallel wiring? Output would be the nearly the same but it's a lot saver with only 48volts. 148v goes easily thru the skin, 48v not(only when the skin wet).

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bajunio said:

I believe an option for preventing runaway failure would be to add something alone the lines of fuses between each of the components. This way, if we see a load of X on the line, it will burn and kill the circuit rather than simply passing the current down the line.

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nfhiggs said:

35V? pffft. We took 500v volt rated caps and charged them with a megger and tossed them around.

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NothinYet said:

So the b versions of the hlg drivers go past their rated max also? I thought it was just the a version? I'm guessing to get above the rated max you need a 110kohm resistor, or a 100kohm resistor?

Have you personally seen this or is it documented somewhere? Also is it random how much over max it goes, or does it vary per driver?

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Randomblame said:

Yea, both go above their rating. Check meanwells website there are tests you can look at to get an idea. Most of the time it's 5-8%. A 110k poti is probably the easiest way to max out a B version driver but you can also use a switch to open the dimmer circuit and get max output. I'm using the cheap B100k linear poti's from e3ay. A 10pack is only 2-3 bucks. I test them all with my multimeter and most of the time I find one or two with 108k or more.

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