DIY LED Question

A good heatsink (either designed for active or passive heatsink ),except overall surface has to have as thick as possible "base-plate"
and an ideal ratio of fin number -height-thickness ...
Let alone parameters like material or anodised black color...

Tall fins,in order to be efficient must have a certain distance between them while being be extra-thick ,especially near the base-plate...
Other wise , a powerful enough ( & "guided"/"channeled" ) air-flow has to cool tall,short-spaced ,thin fins ....

RedCarpetMatches said:

Fran...why did you go with Illumitex...quality...beam...value?

Click to expand...

Hey Red, sorry I didn't get back to ya sooner.

I had blown 2 of my BS240s and needed something for a replacement. Plus I needed better lights than the 30 watt multi chip XPE whites I was running in my Veg tent so I found a closeout Illumitex panel and nabbed it just to see what all the talk is about. I figured they could at least veg a plant. After two days I knew Illumitex was for real. Maybe not as a main light in my flowering tent, pricey for that gig, but with the growth I saw I knew I wanted that in all my tents. That's when it hit me I could install them in my old BS240s and since they have those 50° beam angles, they would be perfect for angleing into the grow between my VIPAR main panel and my DIY CREE bulb fixtures.

Right now, I'm pretty much in love with them. I believe in having whites for intensity and monos for spectrum in your flowering tent and Illumis give the best of both worlds IMHO. Hope that helps ya Red.