DIY plumbing

FlowerPower88

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
I have a tote that I am planning to use as a reservoir, and I have a 3/4” bulkhead attached to the bottom.
A9ED235B-5A00-4392-809C-708FDB49F16F.jpeg
i realized as I was conceiving how to plumb the rest of the run to the plants, that I wouldn’t be able to remove the reservoir for cleaning. Is there any kind of fitting that I could easily detach in order to service my reservoir as needed? I found these
3/4-in x 3/4-in dia x 2-1/2-in L Union Union PVC Fitting https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-dia-x-2-1-2-in-L-Union-PVC-Fitting/50160563
Would that work?
 
Pawtz

Pawtz

Well-Known Member
Rubber coupling that attaches two pipes together? Not sure what you're trying to do here.
 
O

oodawg

Well-Known Member
Looks that what you found at lowes would work. You could also add a male threaded fitting to that and make a small peice of garden hose, then start off your plumbing to the plants with a female thread to couple adapter and go from there? Might be a give you some more play when moving the tub in and out.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
FlowerPower88 said:
I have a tote that I am planning to use as a reservoir, and I have a 3/4” bulkhead attached to the bottom.
View attachment 5137394
i realized as I was conceiving how to plumb the rest of the run to the plants, that I wouldn’t be able to remove the reservoir for cleaning. Is there any kind of fitting that I could easily detach in order to service my reservoir as needed? I found these
3/4-in x 3/4-in dia x 2-1/2-in L Union Union PVC Fitting https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-Worldwide-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-3-4-in-dia-x-2-1-2-in-L-Union-PVC-Fitting/50160563
Would that work?
Click to expand...
Guaranteed leak. You should locate the hole so the fitting fits flush just finger tight. That one pictured is a guaranteed leak sooner or later. Even silicone can only work for so long.
 
FlowerPower88

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
hotrodharley said:
Guaranteed leak. You should locate the hole so the fitting fits flush just finger tight. That one pictured is a guaranteed leak sooner or later. Even silicone can only work for so long.
Click to expand...
Yeah I kind of thought that when I was fitting it in there. I gave it a water test overnight and it held tight, but your right it’s a matter of time until it leaks. I think I’m just going to start fresh with a new tote.
 
O

oodawg

Well-Known Member
I've been using electrical water tight conduit hubs for a few years for the garden and for camp water and whatnot. Havent had one leak yet, they come with a rubber gasket and everything, then I just add a threaded valve/hosebib.
20220523_131143.jpg20220523_131152.jpg20220523_131230.jpg
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Regular PVC fittings are tapered, and won't tighten all the way like you need.

You want male plus female PVC electrical terminal conduit fittings, and a washer or o-ring.

The threads are non-tapered, and will screw together all the way.

1653511076362.png1653511188526.png1653511238284.png
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
NM, looks like you got a legit bulkhead.

Ya, you want a union. You also want a valve to close it off in-case you want to disconnect with water still in the system. From both sides of the union preferably.

You got a few options, because they make PVC unions with the valves built right in. Costly though.
1653512020306.png1653512040676.png




I prefer the banjo quick disconnect fittings as recommended above myself, they are awesome. I get all my banjo stuff off zoro.com, even my regular PVC fittings for 1/2 price or less compared to the store.
1653512142693.png1653512183231.png



If you were dealing with larger plumbing (1.5-2") and wanting ways to disconnect without draining, I recommend valterra gate valves (for RV sewer systems), along with a valve/union. They are so easy to operate, compared to turning a stiff ball valve.
1653511970008.png
 
FlowerPower88

FlowerPower88

Well-Known Member
Drop That Sound said:
NM, looks like you got a legit bulkhead.

Ya, you want a union. You also want a valve to close it off in-case you want to disconnect with water still in the system. From both sides of the union preferably.

You got a few options, because they make PVC unions with the valves built right in. Costly though.




I prefer the banjo quick disconnect fittings as recommended above myself, they are awesome. I get all my banjo stuff off zoro.com, even my regular PVC fittings for 1/2 price or less compared to the store.



If you were dealing with larger plumbing (1.5-2") and wanting ways to disconnect without draining, I recommend valterra gate valves (for RV sewer systems), along with a valve/union. They are so easy to operate, compared to turning a stiff ball valve.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much! Thankfully I didn’t try and improvise on my own and screw anything else up yet. Im going to grab a new tote, put the bulkhead on a flush surface then price out both options with the valve, but probably go with the banjos and save a few $s
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
4 sure.

I love all the banjo camlock fittings. Always designing new systems to use them.

The aero system i'm building right now I'll be able to disconnect everything, from the entire rails to the manifolds, and even the filters, etc.

I even build hybrid systems that you can easily switch from LPA to RDWC, or pretty much anything. Just quick disconnect and hook up other containers/modules.

I save so much when making my own bulkheads (90%) that I spend the rest on nice banjo parts, and gate valves, etc.

Banjo's y-strainers are the best (1.5-2"), way bigger than the little 3/4 ones at the hardware stores, that have little surface area on the mesh screen tubes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top