DIY Project: Full Spectrum LED Lamp

Nervkind

Member
Hey Guys,

after Lurking around here for a very long time, I decided to finally make my first post :)
So please be kind with me, as this is my first post and english is not my native language.

I want to use all the information I gathered here for my very first DIY project.
(Special thanks to stardustsailor for so much useful information and inspiration! :)

I especially orientated myself on these 2 projects:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/thinking-of-a-new-light.822679/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-led-grow-lights-with-cree-cxa3070-cobs-and-cpu-coolers.805681/

I want to keep the general layout of the 'spaceship', and love the idea of switching between 3000k/5000k for flower/verg from sds's project. But I also want to add a UVB reptile bulb, for increased resin production and some deep and far red leds for triggering the emerson effect. (although I'm not so sure about the far red LED's because of their low efficiency)

I also want to drive the COBs at 60w with a constant current driver, because I'm in love with efficiency :D

This is some layout i just drew: (Could'nt upload my picture here, dunno why)


These things were important to me, when working out that design:
1. Efficiency: That's why i want to use 6 COB's @ 60w, instead of less COB's at a higher wattage and thats why i'm probably not gonna use the far reds
2. Simplicity: Since it's my first DIY project i wanted to keep things as simple as possible, regarding the other aspects, even though i probably failed here^^
3. Full Spectrum: Thats why I wanna use the UVB bulb, and the additional red LEDs
4. Good coverage: the dotted line is the size of my grow room and i really want to use that size. Even though i cut back to 65cm height, my first design was 1mx1m lol
5. Upgradeable: This is the least important aspect, but i would love havíng the possibility of adding some LEDs later on. E.g. on the far red slots.

I'm not 100% sure about the parts yet, but it will be something like this:

6x CREE CXA3070 @ 3000K
2x CREE CXA3070 @ 5000K
8x Meanwell LPC-60-1400 Drivers
6x NormaBox ST20 Heat Sink
6x 120mm fan (not sure yet)
12x 5w deep red LED (Not sure yet, what kind of probably some philips ones)
12x 5w far red(not sure if i use them at all, probably not)
1x Arcadia T5 D3+ UVB Reptile Lamp
1x wooden board to hold the stuff^^

But I have some questions left.
Are the heat sinks oversized, since I want to drive the COBs only at 60w? Could I maybe even add some additional LEDs later? I don't really know how to calculate such things.
What do you think about the far red LEDs?
Since efficiency is really important to me, anyone have an idea on how to get the CXA3070 Z4s? I only find the Z2s
@SDS: How and what did you attach to the heat sinks to hold them in place? Didn't really get it in your thread.
Where did you get your heat sinks? Didn't really find them anywhere online and the Fischer ones are rather expensive.

I hope you like my Idea, since I put a lot of effort into it :)
Well, that was my first post :) hope you enjoyed reading it and I'm looking forward to some quality feedback. And no, I'm not going to buy from bmlhorticulture ;)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Nice design and I wish you the best outcome !
Great DIY project !

1) I'm always using aluminium angles .
( 20 x 40 mm or 25 x 25 mm for these heatsinks .. )
Bought by the meter ,and then cut down to 200 mm length ..



They offer me great diversity on attaching the heatsinks to a case or framework ...



I use rivets and epoxy glue ,to attach the alum. angles to the outer sides of the outer thicker fins ...




You won't find those heatsink I use ,that easy ...

Greece (aka Hellas ),BTW, is the biggest producer and exporter of Aluminium
(as first mineral material ) ,in the whole world .
Those heatsinks are made almost from pure aluminium ( A1060 , >95% pure Al )
and their K is above 230 W/mK .
Of course they are made in a small local fabrication facility .
They cost to me about 15 Euros each ,
but their retail price on the market is about 20 Euros each .
(The 'Non anodised' version,add 5-10 Euros for the 'black anodised' version )

Shipping overseas might be expensive as they weigh almost 2 kilos ,each ( 1990 gr ) .

But you can give it a shot ,anyway ..
(Those folks from the Normabox company ,do some great discounts ...)
Here you're ..
The link to the manufacturer of those heatsinks ...

http://www.normabox.gr/website/product_info.php?cust_id=&template_id=&lang=en&cPath=9&from=sitemap&products_id=1


http://www.normabox.gr/website/product_info.php?cust_id=&template_id=&lang=en&cPath=9&products_id=22

( Note the Rθ h_a for the 200mm length = 0.3 C/W...
Soft aluminium ,you see ...:hump::hump: :hump:..
Caution :.it is ....Way-way tricky to tap threads to so soft aluminium alloy ...
The non-anodised version needs surface fine / wet sanding and/or super finishing )
 
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Nervkind

Member
Thanks for your replys! Really helped me understanding :)
I will use aluminium angles as well I think, always wondered how to attach such things^^
I already thought something like, you have some special connection ;)
but thanks for the links anyway and I will try!
Otherwise I still have the Fischer alternative. Shouldn't be too hard to get those.
 

CannaBare

Well-Known Member
Hey Guys,

I also want to drive the COBs at 60w with a constant current driver, because I'm in love with efficiency :D
The best driver I have found for these LEDs is this from China -> http://www.alibaba.com/quotation/detail-img/100-277VAC-input-60W-led-power-supply-led-driver_239533651.html

I know that sounds bad because CHINA but this company is amazing. They have emailed me to checkup twice and no problems with the drivers yet.

I am using them right now to power my 1000w 4x4 and I am stunned! The drivers are right on at 1.59-1.6 at all times! Actually 60w! All other drivers are way below the mark they advertise. You can customize it if you email them. They love selling samples :) I highly recommend this driver! It actually have a max dc output of 40v which they will tell you but even so the cree uses less then 38v at 1600mA after being warmed up.

Forget everything and get this driver. I mean it man.

Canna
 
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