Do i need a potentiometer?

shiva71

shiva71

Well-Known Member
Hiya
Currently sorting out an order from Kingbrite for a qb288 kit, i have the choice of B type driver with potentiometer or A type without (HLG-120H-56A/B)
Considering that the A type is itself adjustable (49-58V/1.1-2.3A), im really wondering if i need the potentiometer?
Cheers :)
 
V

Viceman666

Well-Known Member
shiva71 said:
Hiya
Currently sorting out an order from Kingbrite for a qb288 kit, i have the choice of B type driver with potentiometer or A type without (HLG-120H-56A/B)
Considering that the A type is itself adjustable (49-58V/1.1-2.3A), im really wondering if i need the potentiometer?
Cheers :)
Click to expand...
If you buy B type model and dont have a potentiometer it will run at 100% capacity.. so you dont need one unless you want the capability to dim your light
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
"A" drivers can dim to 50% and "B" drivers can dim to 10%. You can also adjust output voltage on the A series.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
shiva71 said:
Hiya
Currently sorting out an order from Kingbrite for a qb288 kit, i have the choice of B type driver with potentiometer or A type without (HLG-120H-56A/B)
Considering that the A type is itself adjustable (49-58V/1.1-2.3A), im really wondering if i need the potentiometer?
Cheers :)
Click to expand...
It also depends on where you plan to mount the driver. Its sometime easier to use an external potentiometer for instance when you use an additional driver housing. Remote wiring with A version is IMO the best option. You have the driver outside of your grow area and accessable all the time and you have the driver heat already removed. (an HLG-320 produce ~20w of heat)
 
Baqualin

Baqualin

Well-Known Member
I bought the HLG 600H kit with the dimmable meanwell driver. My question is can I mount the driver away from the panel instead of on top and if so what would be the limitation of cord length between the driver and light panel. Reason I posted here is I want to mount the dimmer on the wall and there is a cord length max with it (from what I've read) and you all seem knowledgeable regarding.
Thanks in advance,
Baq
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Baqualin said:
I bought the HLG 600H kit with the dimmable meanwell driver. My question is can I mount the driver away from the panel instead of on top and if so what would be the limitation of cord length between the driver and light panel. Reason I posted here is I want to mount the dimmer on the wall and there is a cord length max with it (from what I've read) and you all seem knowledgeable regarding.
Thanks in advance,
Baq
Click to expand...
Sure, you can remote wire the driver and mount it outside of you tent/grow area. Simply use the same wire diameter the HLG-600H has on its dc outputs. I believe there are two parallel DC outputs and each have AWG14 wires. If you bridge only 2meters AWG14 is okay. Only if you plan to bridge a longer distance I would use AWG12.
But most onboard connectors on LED modules(boards, strips, COB holder) can only handle AWG18 single core wire so use this only to connect the LED modules. From driver to fixture you should use AWG14/AWG12 to avoid voltage droop.
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Sure, you can remote wire the driver and mount it outside of you tent/grow area. Simply use the same wire diameter the HLG-600H has on its dc outputs. I believe there are two parallel DC outputs and each have AWG14 wires. If you bridge only 2meters AWG14 is okay. Only if you plan to bridge a longer distance I would use AWG12.
But most onboard connectors on LED modules(boards, strips, COB holder) can only handle AWG18 single core wire so use this only to connect the LED modules. From driver to fixture you should use AWG14/AWG12 to avoid voltage droop.
Click to expand...
12awg is way overkill. Even 14 is excessive unless your run is over 20"(40' round trip). At that 20' from driver to fixture 16awg will give you 1% voltage drop or less.
I use an app for it at work but unfortunately it wouldnt work for most of the builds here. Highest it goes for voltage is 50v. http://www.wiresizer.com/
Usually for motor loads like pumps engines etc 3% drop is the norm, all other circuits 7%. Thats in my industry fwiw.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Boatguy said:
12awg is way overkill. Even 14 is excessive unless your run is over 20"(40' round trip). At that 20' from driver to fixture 16awg will give you 1% voltage drop or less.
I use an app for it at work but unfortunately it wouldnt work for most of the builds here. Highest it goes for voltage is 50v. http://www.wiresizer.com/
Usually for motor loads like pumps engines etc 3% drop is the norm, all other circuits 7%. Thats in my industry fwiw.
Click to expand...

Yeah, perhaps! But there is a reason why Meanwell uses AWG14 at the DC outputs of the larger drivers(HLG-480, HLG-600, CV/CC version) and I prefer to be on the safe side. AWG12 well, maybe unnecessary. But I would still take AWG14 from driver to the lamp.
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, perhaps! But there is a reason why Meanwell uses AWG14 at the DC outputs of the larger drivers(HLG-480, HLG-600, CV/CC version) and I prefer to be on the safe side. AWG12 well, maybe unnecessary. But I would still take AWG14 from driver to the lamp.
Click to expand...
Probably for higher amperage. 50v at 2.5 amp in his situation 16 gauge is fine for 20'. 50v at 5 amps would be 12 awg for that same 20' for 1%voltage drop
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Boatguy said:
Probably for higher amperage. 50v at 2.5 amp in his situation 16 gauge is fine for 20'. 50v at 5 amps would be 12 awg for that same 20' for 1%voltage drop
Click to expand...

Hmm! An HLG-600H-48 has 12,5A on the output side and the 54v version still 11,1amps. An HLG-240H-54 would have 4,6A
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top