Do some cultivars prefer synthetic nutes?

Jcue81

Well-Known Member
I’m eyeing an old clone on strainly and the owner told me the cut doesn’t come out that well in an organic garden. Curious if this is just because it was most likely selected in a salt based garden 20 years ago. It seems hard to believe that some plants wouldn’t thrive in a balanced living soil.

Any thoughts on this one? the cut is a 90’s Sour Diesel out of upstate NY.
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
Careful cause the New York City Diesel I tried in that time period was not the same as sour diesel I grew
Hope it works out but I have never had issues with either in my grow
One exception the sour was a very slow plant to cut and show roots(2weeks)
 

Apalchen

Well-Known Member
I would guess that it’s a heavy feeder and longer flowering plant. I knew a guy with fairly large organic gardens and he used to swear up and down that certain strains were shit and wouldn’t yield. After switching to salts he realized he was just starving them the whole time and those strains he thought weren’t any good were just heavy feeders.
 

Funkentelechy

Well-Known Member
I’m eyeing an old clone on strainly and the owner told me the cut doesn’t come out that well in an organic garden.
I've heard this in regards to diesel cuts but having more to do with the smell and flavor profile. The theory is that to get old school diesel to taste exactly like it did in the 90's you have to use the same fertilizers that people were using to grow that cut when it became so popular back then, i.e. nasty ass salt-based chemical fertilizers. Is it a result of the plant expressing its genetics differently based on inputs, or is the terp profile that they like just the flavor of the chemical fertilizer?

Similarly, I have heard of people who only use old school Metal halide and HPS lights to grow old school strains because they feel that those lights played a role in the plant expressing a specific phenotype that they associate positively with the plant.

As an outdoor grower, I've noticed that certain strains just don't express themselves the same under the sun that they do under lights. I've tried strains that indoor growers rave about and they were only so so for me, and there are strains that do much better outside.

I think that any strain will grow well in a balanced biologically active organic soil, but sometimes the thing that people like about a given strain may actually be a phenotypical expression of the strain when grown using specific inputs or in a specific environment.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
I've heard this in regards to diesel cuts but having more to do with the smell and flavor profile. The theory is that to get old school diesel to taste exactly like it did in the 90's you have to use the same fertilizers that people were using to grow that cut when it became so popular back then, i.e. nasty ass salt-based chemical fertilizers. Is it a result of the plant expressing its genetics differently based on inputs, or is the terp profile that they like just the flavor of the chemical fertilizer?

Similarly, I have heard of people who only use old school Metal halide and HPS lights to grow old school strains because they feel that those lights played a role in the plant expressing a specific phenotype that they associate positively with the plant.

As an outdoor grower, I've noticed that certain strains just don't express themselves the same under the sun that they do under lights. I've tried strains that indoor growers rave about and they were only so so for me, and there are strains that do much better outside.

I think that any strain will grow well in a balanced biologically active organic soil, but sometimes the thing that people like about a given strain may actually be a phenotypical expression of the strain when grown using specific inputs or in a specific environment.
You are absolutely spot on about this. This is why strain selection is so heavily emphasized to growers of all experiences. That OG or Urkle or whatever strain has spent its entire lifetime and lineage indoors for decades will suffer outdoors. This is because they have adapted to indoor environments, to the point where they'll likely die if put outdoors. The key is going through the motions of getting said strains to adapt to the outdoors. Simple in theory, but quite time consuming and costly if you're buying seeds.

Remember, even just 10 years ago, weed wasn't legal recreationally or even medicinally on such a large scale. Prior to that, most growers around the world grew indoors to avoid being busted.

Imagine how staying indoors affected breeding plants. Many of the strains on the market were bred exclusively indoors in controlled environments; no bugs, limited light (compared to the sun), perfect temp and RH ranges, extra CO2, pretty much all of the stuff you're not likely to find in nature. Consider just how long some of these strains have remained indoors.

As a result of the breeding in this controlled environment, the progeny of the parents will certainly end up adapting to said controlled environment.

The biggest pitfall with new living soil grows is not top dressing enough. This is why most new organic grows you see here will have mediocre yields. Most of us come from salt/hydro backgrounds, and it takes a bit of dialing in to get a living soil on the same level as salt fertilizers. The flavor is the only thing that inspires people to keep trying until they succeed, because most new soil growers will yield about 1/4 of what they used to in hydro.

This is why trying certain strains outdoors leads to heartache, because these strains have been bred for years (if not longer) indoors specifically through many generations. Taking a clone from one of these strains and throwing it outdoors will usually lead to certain death, or mediocre harvests at best. Try growing various OG strains outdoors some time, most of them will not do well. Makes sense, seeing as OG Kush has remained "indoors" ever since it first became a strain.

Diesel, and other strains, have all the terp profiles written in their genetic code. Its just that its easier to provide "perfect" nutrition with salts than living soil, at first.

The same is true with lights. As intense as some LEDs and DE bulbs can be, they still pale in comparison to the sunlight. Plants that have only ever lived indoors are adapted to indoor light exclusively. Putting plants like this outdoors under the sunlight will cause issues until the plants adapt to the sunlight's intensity and spectrum.

You're very right about certain strains expressing themselves better, or not expressing themselves enough. This has to do with the sunlight, and how the plants react to the sun. Indoor adapted strains won't express themselves much outdoors because the sun's intensity will stress them too much. Conversely, outdoor adapted strains won't flourish indoors, as not only can they survive in the intense sunlight but they crave it.

Eventually, you can make said strains survive and thrive outdoors, but it takes work. Easiest with seeds, but possible with mothers and clones if you have enough time and veg room. Seeds are easy, just sprout the next generation of seeds outdoors exclusively. Most won't even sprout, the ones that do sprout will likely do good outdoors. Simply clone and mother the plant, and done. In my desert climate, I'm happy if 1-2 out of 10 seeds sprout. You're not likely to get a good germ rate, but that's the point, we only want what will survive and thrive outdoors right? You'll only have one or two seedlings, but they'll thrive in your environment. Done.

Way more tricky with clones, but possible. Start with the initial clone outdoors, it will suffer and likely not yield very well. The idea isn't to get a yield, but to take clones after its been outside in these conditions for long enough. The idea is to force the plant to stay outdoors until it adapts, once the plant adapts to the environment, then we can clone it and grow it outdoors successfully. As you can gather, this takes a long ass time. A year minimum. The plant will spend months stunted, deformed, and shriveled. But it will survive. Keep it alive until it begins to finally thrive, 1-2 years.

You'll either need to keep the plant in a pot, and move it so as to avoid it going into flower. Or, you can let it flower and take clones from it prior to flower. Then, repeat the process with the clone. The original plant dies and has shit yields, but you still have the clone. The clone has the "memory" of these outdoor conditions, so to speak. So now you take that clone, throw it outdoors, and observe its reactions. Eventually, you'll take a clone from said plant, and it will do just fine outdoors because the clone is finally coming from a plant that has successfully adapted. While the original plants are dying, the clones you're taking are off to a more healthy start while still retaining the memory of being outdoors. Eventually, you'll get to a point where the clone you take doesn't stress at all, and it has finally acclimated to your environment outdoors.


For all life, we either adapt, or die. Only options. Plants will always attempt to choose life, its just a matter of how long we need to baby them to help them get to a point where they thrive. Takes a long ass time, but its possible.

Ultimately? Much less of a pain in the ass to just grow whatever does good in your environment, even if it means going without all of those OG strains.

There's plenty of great strains out there. However, I believe everyone's best chance at getting dank outdoors is by starting as many seeds as you can outdoors in your environment's most brutal of conditions.

I germinate new seeds outdoors in late June-early July, the most stressful part of the year in my climate. I get 10-20% germ rates at best, but that 10-20% thrives in my 120F and above summers.



I would guess that it’s a heavy feeder and longer flowering plant. I knew a guy with fairly large organic gardens and he used to swear up and down that certain strains were shit and wouldn’t yield. After switching to salts he realized he was just starving them the whole time and those strains he thought weren’t any good were just heavy feeders.

So much this, and then you realize you've likely been underfeeding for a while. That still effects me when I'm growing a new strain or new plant of any sort. Very easy to add more, but you're fucked if you've too much.


Why I've always opted for lower NPK amendments at more frequent intervals, as opposed to more powerful inputs applied at monthly intervals. Allows you to top dress weekly, and since the values are so light (4-6-2 or 4-8-4), you can top dress larger plants weekly with no ill consequences aside from possible diminishing returns.

In fact, some of those big outdoor plants will likely need top dresses twice a week.

Consider the NPK values of bottled ferts vs the light ones I listed above, after all. It can be a learning curve getting it dialed in, especially since everyone's organic grow has different variables and environments, however the results are beyond worth it. Everything grown in the soil will be good, and eventually things become self-sustaining. Zero cost.

Regards all.
 

waterproof808

Well-Known Member
I’m eyeing an old clone on strainly and the owner told me the cut doesn’t come out that well in an organic garden. Curious if this is just because it was most likely selected in a salt based garden 20 years ago. It seems hard to believe that some plants wouldn’t thrive in a balanced living soil.

Any thoughts on this one? the cut is a 90’s Sour Diesel out of upstate NY.
That's complete Bullshit. What he should be saying is the strain can tolerate much higher npk values than is typically found in an organic system, but the plant cannot differentiate between organic or synthetic.
 

waterproof808

Well-Known Member
You are absolutely spot on about this. This is why strain selection is so heavily emphasized to growers of all experiences. That OG or Urkle or whatever strain has spent its entire lifetime and lineage indoors for decades will suffer outdoors. This is because they have adapted to indoor environments, to the point where they'll likely die if put outdoors. The key is going through the motions of getting said strains to adapt to the outdoors. Simple in theory, but quite time consuming and costly if you're buying seeds.

Remember, even just 10 years ago, weed wasn't legal recreationally or even medicinally on such a large scale. Prior to that, most growers around the world grew indoors to avoid being busted.

Imagine how staying indoors affected breeding plants. Many of the strains on the market were bred exclusively indoors in controlled environments; no bugs, limited light (compared to the sun), perfect temp and RH ranges, extra CO2, pretty much all of the stuff you're not likely to find in nature. Consider just how long some of these strains have remained indoors.

As a result of the breeding in this controlled environment, the progeny of the parents will certainly end up adapting to said controlled environment.

The biggest pitfall with new living soil grows is not top dressing enough. This is why most new organic grows you see here will have mediocre yields. Most of us come from salt/hydro backgrounds, and it takes a bit of dialing in to get a living soil on the same level as salt fertilizers. The flavor is the only thing that inspires people to keep trying until they succeed, because most new soil growers will yield about 1/4 of what they used to in hydro.

This is why trying certain strains outdoors leads to heartache, because these strains have been bred for years (if not longer) indoors specifically through many generations. Taking a clone from one of these strains and throwing it outdoors will usually lead to certain death, or mediocre harvests at best. Try growing various OG strains outdoors some time, most of them will not do well. Makes sense, seeing as OG Kush has remained "indoors" ever since it first became a strain.
tons of people grow OG's/diesel/chems outdoors with no issue. The problem with alot of those old cuts now is alot of them are carrying viruses like hlpvd because they've passed through so many peoples gardens, and alot of growers dont realize they have it and blame it on the genetics.
 

Gumdrawp

Well-Known Member
I'm not really sure of any of the science behind it or why it happened, but it took probably 2 full cycles to have a friend's strain really take off in my garden. He's been hydro and feeding salts for years and I swapped to organic around 8 years ago now.

I suspect that having grown with synthetic nutes and then propagated many times the plants roots may not have been used to growing out as many hairs/feeder roots in his hydro setup as was necessary in an organic environment to maintain the same kind of uptake. Eventually they started producing just fine but the first couple of harvests had me scratching my head quite a bit, and now the root balls are a lot more "solid" when I pulled the first few plants out the rootball itself fell apart much more easily and it seemed like there were more of the longer thicker roots but not so much of the little webbing in between. Now the rootball comes up and holds together more in line with what I'm used to.

Like I said though I don't know if there's any science or proof behind it, I guess I could have fucked up my soil for a 6ish month period and accidentally corrected it since this was before I would test anything.
 

Funkentelechy

Well-Known Member
I've never had a hard time getting a strain to grow well or produce well in organic soil outdoors, but I do feel that sometimes certain strains tend to produce different phenotypes in response to my growing conditions than folks who grow them indoors. Could that possibly be true for organic vs salt based growing environments as well? I dunno, I really only smoke organic unless I'm flying and need to buy from a dispensary so I can't really compare, but it makes sense on paper.
I have not ever grown any 100% diesel strains but I have grown several diesel crosses and they have all turned out beautifully, produced well, and tasted great using organic soil.

I guess it depends on what this person meant by "doesn’t come out that well", are we talking how the plant grows, or the smell/taste.

I think that all other environmental factors aside any plant can be grown better using organic inputs, but I also think it may be possible that a given strain could taste or smell differently than it would if it were grown using salt based fertilizer. It's hard for me to imagine that any strain wouldn't taste better grown organically but to each their own I guess.
 

Weedvin

Well-Known Member
I’m eyeing an old clone on strainly and the owner told me the cut doesn’t come out that well in an organic garden. Curious if this is just because it was most likely selected in a salt based garden 20 years ago. It seems hard to believe that some plants wouldn’t thrive in a balanced living soil.

Any thoughts on this one? the cut is a 90’s Sour Diesel out of upstate NY.
Some one on this masterful website said " ain't nothin like an organic bud " here here LOL
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
I doubt it very much NPK is NPK it doesn't matter that it's salts or organic plants can't tell.
A Google search will yeild plenty more on the subject.
 

Weedvin

Well-Known Member
I’m eyeing an old clone on strainly and the owner told me the cut doesn’t come out that well in an organic garden. Curious if this is just because it was most likely selected in a salt based garden 20 years ago. It seems hard to believe that some plants wouldn’t thrive in a balanced living soil.

Any thoughts on this one? the cut is a 90’s Sour Diesel out of upstate NY.
There's a hybrid out there that the say only chemicals ! Saw it once.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
You are absolutely spot on about this. This is why strain selection is so heavily emphasized to growers of all experiences. That OG or Urkle or whatever strain has spent its entire lifetime and lineage indoors for decades will suffer outdoors. This is because they have adapted to indoor environments, to the point where they'll likely die if put outdoors. The key is going through the motions of getting said strains to adapt to the outdoors. Simple in theory, but quite time consuming and costly if you're buying seeds.

Remember, even just 10 years ago, weed wasn't legal recreationally or even medicinally on such a large scale. Prior to that, most growers around the world grew indoors to avoid being busted.

Imagine how staying indoors affected breeding plants. Many of the strains on the market were bred exclusively indoors in controlled environments; no bugs, limited light (compared to the sun), perfect temp and RH ranges, extra CO2, pretty much all of the stuff you're not likely to find in nature. Consider just how long some of these strains have remained indoors.

As a result of the breeding in this controlled environment, the progeny of the parents will certainly end up adapting to said controlled environment.

The biggest pitfall with new living soil grows is not top dressing enough. This is why most new organic grows you see here will have mediocre yields. Most of us come from salt/hydro backgrounds, and it takes a bit of dialing in to get a living soil on the same level as salt fertilizers. The flavor is the only thing that inspires people to keep trying until they succeed, because most new soil growers will yield about 1/4 of what they used to in hydro.

This is why trying certain strains outdoors leads to heartache, because these strains have been bred for years (if not longer) indoors specifically through many generations. Taking a clone from one of these strains and throwing it outdoors will usually lead to certain death, or mediocre harvests at best. Try growing various OG strains outdoors some time, most of them will not do well. Makes sense, seeing as OG Kush has remained "indoors" ever since it first became a strain.

Diesel, and other strains, have all the terp profiles written in their genetic code. Its just that its easier to provide "perfect" nutrition with salts than living soil, at first.

The same is true with lights. As intense as some LEDs and DE bulbs can be, they still pale in comparison to the sunlight. Plants that have only ever lived indoors are adapted to indoor light exclusively. Putting plants like this outdoors under the sunlight will cause issues until the plants adapt to the sunlight's intensity and spectrum.

You're very right about certain strains expressing themselves better, or not expressing themselves enough. This has to do with the sunlight, and how the plants react to the sun. Indoor adapted strains won't express themselves much outdoors because the sun's intensity will stress them too much. Conversely, outdoor adapted strains won't flourish indoors, as not only can they survive in the intense sunlight but they crave it.

Eventually, you can make said strains survive and thrive outdoors, but it takes work. Easiest with seeds, but possible with mothers and clones if you have enough time and veg room. Seeds are easy, just sprout the next generation of seeds outdoors exclusively. Most won't even sprout, the ones that do sprout will likely do good outdoors. Simply clone and mother the plant, and done. In my desert climate, I'm happy if 1-2 out of 10 seeds sprout. You're not likely to get a good germ rate, but that's the point, we only want what will survive and thrive outdoors right? You'll only have one or two seedlings, but they'll thrive in your environment. Done.

Way more tricky with clones, but possible. Start with the initial clone outdoors, it will suffer and likely not yield very well. The idea isn't to get a yield, but to take clones after its been outside in these conditions for long enough. The idea is to force the plant to stay outdoors until it adapts, once the plant adapts to the environment, then we can clone it and grow it outdoors successfully. As you can gather, this takes a long ass time. A year minimum. The plant will spend months stunted, deformed, and shriveled. But it will survive. Keep it alive until it begins to finally thrive, 1-2 years.

You'll either need to keep the plant in a pot, and move it so as to avoid it going into flower. Or, you can let it flower and take clones from it prior to flower. Then, repeat the process with the clone. The original plant dies and has shit yields, but you still have the clone. The clone has the "memory" of these outdoor conditions, so to speak. So now you take that clone, throw it outdoors, and observe its reactions. Eventually, you'll take a clone from said plant, and it will do just fine outdoors because the clone is finally coming from a plant that has successfully adapted. While the original plants are dying, the clones you're taking are off to a more healthy start while still retaining the memory of being outdoors. Eventually, you'll get to a point where the clone you take doesn't stress at all, and it has finally acclimated to your environment outdoors.


For all life, we either adapt, or die. Only options. Plants will always attempt to choose life, its just a matter of how long we need to baby them to help them get to a point where they thrive. Takes a long ass time, but its possible.

Ultimately? Much less of a pain in the ass to just grow whatever does good in your environment, even if it means going without all of those OG strains.

There's plenty of great strains out there. However, I believe everyone's best chance at getting dank outdoors is by starting as many seeds as you can outdoors in your environment's most brutal of conditions.

I germinate new seeds outdoors in late June-early July, the most stressful part of the year in my climate. I get 10-20% germ rates at best, but that 10-20% thrives in my 120F and above summers.






So much this, and then you realize you've likely been underfeeding for a while. That still effects me when I'm growing a new strain or new plant of any sort. Very easy to add more, but you're fucked if you've too much.


Why I've always opted for lower NPK amendments at more frequent intervals, as opposed to more powerful inputs applied at monthly intervals. Allows you to top dress weekly, and since the values are so light (4-6-2 or 4-8-4), you can top dress larger plants weekly with no ill consequences aside from possible diminishing returns.

In fact, some of those big outdoor plants will likely need top dresses twice a week.

Consider the NPK values of bottled ferts vs the light ones I listed above, after all. It can be a learning curve getting it dialed in, especially since everyone's organic grow has different variables and environments, however the results are beyond worth it. Everything grown in the soil will be good, and eventually things become self-sustaining. Zero cost.

Regards all.
You know your shit man. I'm one of the organic growers that doesn't top dress enough, lol.
 

Gumdrawp

Well-Known Member
I doubt it very much NPK is NPK it doesn't matter that it's salts or organic plants can't tell.
A Google search will yeild plenty more on the subject.
While I agree you're right that a plant doesn't necessarily care that it gets salt or organic npk, but that article also says there is no difference in nutrient density between the two plants and that has been studied and proven that organic products are typically higher in some nutrients and secondary metabolites such as antioxidants or oils.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20359265/

I don't think any plant is incapable of growing either way, and eventually unless you have a pathogen like hplv or something similar you should be able to get similar enough end product. It took me a while to get off the high horse for organic because it comes with its own drawbacks too (looking at you heavy metals). In reality you're either doing one of two things, providing enough in excess in your soil and letting the plant drive itself, or taking over and driving yourself with salts. In fact I think that the assumed lack of secondary metabolites in synthetic grows will likely be a problem of the past soon with more people putting science behind how important mineralization and micronutrients are for plants.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
I don't think any plant is incapable of growing either way, and eventually unless you have a pathogen like hplv or something similar you should be able to get similar enough end product. It took me a while to get off the high horse for organic because it comes with its own drawbacks too (looking at you heavy metals). In reality you're either doing one of two things, providing enough in excess in your soil and letting the plant drive itself, or taking over and driving yourself with salts. In fact I think that the assumed lack of secondary metabolites in synthetic grows will likely be a problem of the past soon with more people putting science behind how important mineralization and micronutrients are for plants.
About 4 years into my no till pots I just stopped top dressing. Went to living mulch and just did that. Plants respond even better. I spend less in dry amendments and I dont have to run a separate composting situation. I even stopped having a worm bin here recently as I just dont put compost on my beds anymore. However, I have learned how important that cover crop and mulch is. In my opinion, this is why we are seeing these reports of heavy metals. Too much amendments and not enough mulching plant matter.

I also think that putting aged wood into the bottom of no till pots is great. My hugel-kulture bed is showing me that using wood in the base of the bed provides a constant decomposing food source for the plants. Nvm the amazing water retention. Like seriously, if there was ever something to act as training wheels for learning to water these beds, its that. A good sized couple of logs that have already started to decompose and are sorta hard/spongy will hold a CRAP load of water in them.

Dr. Ingham recent webinar about regenerating soil really confirmed for me that all this top dressing, scoops of amendments, teas, compost, slurrys ect is not needed once you mulch and have a active living soil ecosystem. Since I stopped top dressing with composts no more fungus gnats. And honestly its just easier to use a set of sheers to mow the clover from the top of the bed then to be mixing all this stuff up.

Not to say I don't re-amend with nutrients. I do use craft blend a couple of times a year. I work about 8 cups into the top of the bed through the mulch layer. I also water with Saponin Extract, Mikrobs, and some big 6 once a year. Then I let the bed sit for a month and grow cover crop. Mow it a couple of times. then drop in some more plants.

I've proly said it a 100 times, if your not mulching your making organics way harder then it needs to be. Mulching your harvested plants back into your soil provides the food for the soil biology to make more nutrients available from your amendments. And most of these amendments take awhile to break down. Minerals take years if not decades.

So if you been top dressing a lot, chances are you proly have all the nutrients in the soil you would ever need. Check out living mulch and soil food webs.

And Finally to the OP, I'm not sure that a cultivar would "prefer" the bottle. It is however certianly feasible that a breeder would select genetic traits that compliment a certain growing style. Indoor vs outdoor, soil vs coco, DWC vs Aeroponics. Naturally a breeder is going to pick. So your best bet to determine the environment to strive for a certain seed would be to look at where they started. This is why you will see people say diesel cultivars do better indoors with bottle nutes. Well yeah they do, the strain was made in a apartment in NYC in a stealth grow. (If the story im told was true, proly not) Proly indoors under HPS or T5s, with GH Flora Nova Nutes. Maybe Advanced Nutrients. So the breeder would pick traits it liked. Smelly, strong, short growing, can be feed high ppm nutrients, hardy, mold resistant, ect ect.
Now that does not mean that another breeder didnt get a seed or clones, then pheno hunt out other traits. For instance, likes to be out doors and in organic soil. After a couple rounds of breeding and trait selection, you should end up with a NYC Diesel that performs as you want.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
About 4 years into my no till pots I just stopped top dressing. Went to living mulch and just did that. Plants respond even better. I spend less in dry amendments and I dont have to run a separate composting situation. I even stopped having a worm bin here recently as I just dont put compost on my beds anymore. However, I have learned how important that cover crop and mulch is. In my opinion, this is why we are seeing these reports of heavy metals. Too much amendments and not enough mulching plant matter.

I also think that putting aged wood into the bottom of no till pots is great. My hugel-kulture bed is showing me that using wood in the base of the bed provides a constant decomposing food source for the plants. Nvm the amazing water retention. Like seriously, if there was ever something to act as training wheels for learning to water these beds, its that. A good sized couple of logs that have already started to decompose and are sorta hard/spongy will hold a CRAP load of water in them.

Dr. Ingham recent webinar about regenerating soil really confirmed for me that all this top dressing, scoops of amendments, teas, compost, slurrys ect is not needed once you mulch and have a active living soil ecosystem. Since I stopped top dressing with composts no more fungus gnats. And honestly its just easier to use a set of sheers to mow the clover from the top of the bed then to be mixing all this stuff up.

Not to say I don't re-amend with nutrients. I do use craft blend a couple of times a year. I work about 8 cups into the top of the bed through the mulch layer. I also water with Saponin Extract, Mikrobs, and some big 6 once a year. Then I let the bed sit for a month and grow cover crop. Mow it a couple of times. then drop in some more plants.

I've proly said it a 100 times, if your not mulching your making organics way harder then it needs to be. Mulching your harvested plants back into your soil provides the food for the soil biology to make more nutrients available from your amendments. And most of these amendments take awhile to break down. Minerals take years if not decades.

So if you been top dressing a lot, chances are you proly have all the nutrients in the soil you would ever need. Check out living mulch and soil food webs.

And Finally to the OP, I'm not sure that a cultivar would "prefer" the bottle. It is however certianly feasible that a breeder would select genetic traits that compliment a certain growing style. Indoor vs outdoor, soil vs coco, DWC vs Aeroponics. Naturally a breeder is going to pick. So your best bet to determine the environment to strive for a certain seed would be to look at where they started. This is why you will see people say diesel cultivars do better indoors with bottle nutes. Well yeah they do, the strain was made in a apartment in NYC in a stealth grow. (If the story im told was true, proly not) Proly indoors under HPS or T5s, with GH Flora Nova Nutes. Maybe Advanced Nutrients. So the breeder would pick traits it liked. Smelly, strong, short growing, can be feed high ppm nutrients, hardy, mold resistant, ect ect.
Now that does not mean that another breeder didnt get a seed or clones, then pheno hunt out other traits. For instance, likes to be out doors and in organic soil. After a couple rounds of breeding and trait selection, you should end up with a NYC Diesel that performs as you want.
Definitely many interesting points here. You're entirely spot on as to what the final goal for a living soil grow should be, and that is self reliance and sustainability. Fact is, very soon you'll be at a point where you don't need to purchase anymore amendments, as you'll have "perfect" compost. What I mean by "perfect" compost is that this compost will be capable of satisfying all of your plant's nutritional needs. As you pointed out, the microbes will constantly have food from plant waste and the mulch itself. Eventually, there will be no need for top dresses, teas, or anything and you get to a point where you are only top dressing with compost.

You're 100% spot on about how all you need is an active living soil. The reason people tend to insist on teas, inoculations, and the like are because their soil is not as active as they thought. Is KNF/compost teas/lacto/etc bad? Of course not! Its just that some people tend to forget that the purpose of these is mostly for inoculating purposes. Eventually, your soil will be as inoculated as it can be, and you'll be at a point where the inoculations become superfluous.

Eventually, you have so much "waste" in the form of old plants, bad fruits, and leaves/branches from pruning, that you'll find yourself drowning in compost. Eventually (assuming the soil stays alive), there will be no more need for teas, top dresses, inoculations, or anything of the sort. Once perfect compost has been achieved, that is literally all that we need. In fact, compost is literally one of the very few natural sources of Magnesium and Phosphorus.

The more I have witnessed, the more I realize that this has always been the way. Simple and self sustaining. I've spent the past year building up a compost pile, as well as worm bins. Given enough time, the hope is to rely on pure compost for nutritional needs. Attaining "pure" compost gets much simpler once comfrey or nettles are added into the equation.

Regards.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
While I agree you're right that a plant doesn't necessarily care that it gets salt or organic npk, but that article also says there is no difference in nutrient density between the two plants and that has been studied and proven that organic products are typically higher in some nutrients and secondary metabolites such as antioxidants or oils.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20359265/

I don't think any plant is incapable of growing either way, and eventually unless you have a pathogen like hplv or something similar you should be able to get similar enough end product. It took me a while to get off the high horse for organic because it comes with its own drawbacks too (looking at you heavy metals). In reality you're either doing one of two things, providing enough in excess in your soil and letting the plant drive itself, or taking over and driving yourself with salts. In fact I think that the assumed lack of secondary metabolites in synthetic grows will likely be a problem of the past soon with more people putting science behind how important mineralization and micronutrients are for plants.
And terpenes, most specifically, but the above is all correct.

Ultimately, Nitrogen is Nitrogen, Phosphorus is Phosphorus, etc. As others (and your source) have pointed out, the plant doesn't really care much about where the nutrients come from. Like humans; sure, the occasional protein shake is okay but it isn't something you'd live off of ideally. Fact is, whether its fresh fish or a protein shake, protein is protein. Plants operate the same.

The terpenes that are developed from a thriving soil web are what cause flavors to pop out and thrive in a living soil grow. The bulk of the terpenes aren't coming from the plant, but the soil itself.

What makes living soil so special is cultivating the microbes. Take your basic 4-6-2 or 4-4-4 blend mix, unless specific ingredients are readily available, you don't get any of that NPK until the microbes have processed it.

How do these microbes communicate? How do the roots communicate with the microbes? Smell, more specifically, exuding terpenes. The roots and microbes exude terpenes and use this to communicate with one another. This is the key difference between living soil, and all other methods of growing.

Not trying to shit on hydro, or other methods. More than one way to skin a fish. Fact is, there is a myriad of terpenes that are literally only found within a living soil. In a side by side, something grown from a living soil will always have more flavor than something using other methods (assuming both are done properly, of course). The reason is because the soil itself produces terpenes. Not only do the plants themselves absorb these terpenes, but we smell them. In fact, studies have confirmed that the terpenes exuded from decomposing organic matter in a garden release both dopamine and endorphins.

Here's a thought that'll trip one out. The smell of your garden is directly proportional to the life within the soil. You know those days when you walk outside, or open up your tent, and you're just hit with the smell of compost instantly? We're literally smelling life, multiplying at astronomical rates. A single fingernail would hold a little over a trillion microbes, I'm not going to even try to find a number that describes the amount of life in a 4x4 bed, or something like the Redwood Forest.


You know your shit man. I'm one of the organic growers that doesn't top dress enough, lol.
I still do it too, with new strains/plants at least. Part of the process. Fact is, way better to under do it than over do it. No going back once one has overdone something, especially P. Takes 3+ years to correct toxic P levels, one is pretty much better off taking said P toxic soil to the dump and starting from scratch. source

Unless one is able to have a dedicated clone/mother room, or grow the same exact seeds for years, many weed growers will lack consistency in terms of strain selection. This isn't an issue for vegetables, there's no plant counts, nor reason to be discreet. Not to mention, the cost of weed seeds compared to literally any other seeds that exist.

Knowledge of the strain one is dealing with is crucial to success. I've had some strains that need weekly feedings, and others that are fine with the monthly feedings. Only way to know that is to have experience with the strain/plant in question, unfortunately.
 

Kindbud421

Well-Known Member
I believe the OP is correct. I have grown cultivars that struggled with salt based nutes that were created and bred exclusively in organic medium. I liken it to a person who becomes a vegetarian after being raised to eat all foods. After a while their body has a hard time assimilating meat and makes them ill. Same basic nutrients but hard to process…
 
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