Double Ended penetration vs HPS ?

Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
So I have been thinking of DE for my new grow as I plan to grow 5-6 foot trees indoors, but my main concern is this;
will the DE penetrate that deep?
How about a 1k HPS?

Scrog obviously as much as possible .

The main thing im on the fence about is that.

Other thing is from the numbers I crunch about DE vs HPS

Is that if I run HPS air cooled I can have them closer with higher PAR than DE.

Anyone know if a HPS will penetrate that deep?
Will be running 24 ebb and flow under 4k of either HPS or DE.

All scrog topped and trellis and lst.

just seems to be that DE has less PAR due to high height but possibly more depth but I have not found anywhere online to find out as I was going to call gavita about this.

Seems the Gavita DE 1k has 8% more light, but with much less PAR.

Anyone with experiance. Just want to get a little more info before I buy everything. Will be calling gavita tomorrow to figure out better numbers.

Also anyone have any PAR measurements on a gavita at 6 foot?
 
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Darth Vapour

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Gavita lighting is beating normal HPS........CDM is beating Gavita.....(Ceramic Discharge Metal Halide)..

Here - this has a LOT of good info on DE - CDM - HPS and new COB LED's you build. Your going to have to read into it deeply....Great thread.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/

Doc
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interesting will have to have a read you mention beating Gavita ??? as in how ?? efficiency surely not yield i am seeing 3 pounds per 1 k with my eyes closed i am hearing from my close friends pulling 3.5 to 4 pounds off nanolux DE units here is a actual outside test done comparing nano to oshio gavita etc mind you with them numbers buddies are getting its a no brainer to have ordered some :)
Mind you 415 dollars for one Nano DE unit i am very curious what the costs would be to get 3.5 - 4 pounds from CDM initial cost the same ??? 415 bucks
 

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Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
Darth Vapour said:
interesting will have to have a read you mention beating Gavita ??? as in how ?? efficiency surely not yield i am seeing 3 pounds per 1 k with my eyes closed i am hearing from my close friends pulling 3.5 to 4 pounds off nanolux DE units here is a actual outside test done comparing nano to oshio gavita etc mind you with them numbers buddies are getting its a no brainer to have ordered some :)
Mind you 415 dollars for one Nano DE unit i am very curious what the costs would be to get 3.5 - 4 pounds from CDM initial cost the same ??? 415 bucks
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This was very imformative. I have also been looking at Nonolux DE and have herd good things.
CDM I cant see pulling those numbers atleast cost for cost.
I like the Nono design due to the ballast being flat instead of up which saves space. Thanks mate
 
Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
Used a DE 1k. Kept the light at 36" above canopy until ~4 weeks out from harvest and then dropped them to ~30". 15gal/x10. Lollipopped @ week 4 and FIN the buds. Trellis over top (almost a S.O.G.) @ week 6. The lower branches were pruned just right and the trellis was installed timely. This allowed for a lower trellis to hold the lower branches. The larfy/airy/popcorn buds were few and far between. The DE definitely can penetrate the canopy.....the pruning and trill will allow you to achieve the desired results that the DE can provide. So far the DE has been the best "Top-light" technique I have seen. Lumen output is amazing. The universal light array compared to a normal (single ended) bulb is un matched. With the DE, ALL of the bulbs lumens can be directed for use where as the single end has a "tapered" lighting array.
 
Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
Used a DE 1k. Kept the light at 36" above canopy until ~4 weeks out from harvest and then dropped them to ~30". 15gal/x10. Lollipopped @ week 4 and FIN the buds. Trellis over top (almost a S.O.G.) @ week 6. The lower branches were pruned just right and the trellis was installed timely. This allowed for a lower trellis to hold the lower branches. The larfy/airy/popcorn buds were few and far between. The DE definitely can penetrate the canopy.....the pruning and trill will allow you to achieve the desired results that the DE can provide. So far the DE has been the best "Top-light" technique I have seen. Lumen output is amazing. The universal light array compared to a normal (single ended) bulb is un matched. With the DE, ALL of the bulbs lumens can be directed for use where as the single end has a "tapered" lighting array.
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First Lumens are for humans.
Second, you joined monday...just alot of trolls around trying to boost sales no offence.
But from what I have seen your results sound correct.
Ill be picking up 4 DE fixtures
 
Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
Trippyness said:
First Lumens are for humans.
Second, you joined monday...just alot of trolls around trying to boost sales no offence.
But from what I have seen your results sound correct.
Ill be picking up 4 DE fixtures
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Im not understanding what you mean by, "Lumens are for humans"
 
Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
Im not understanding what you mean by, "Lumens are for humans"
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Lumens are a measurement for humans. Lumens is visible light by the human eye. Has nothing to do with plants.
Measuring plants in PAR is the way to go.
Someone with Gavita DE should know this..
 
Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
I will agree with you. There are many ways to measure light. PAR/Lumen/RQE/etc... The most effective way to calculate your lights efficiency is, Photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD). This measures the actual number of photons hitting the canopy. They are all relative when knowing the specs of your lighting. Spectral emission and PPFD at the canopy are the most important factors in light calculations. The inverse square law, used in radiological practices, represent the intensity of the light at given distances from the light source. It is the opposite of the Kenitic energy theory.
 
Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
USHIO makes a Super High Pressure Sodium Double Ended bulb/lamp in its Hi-LUX GRO lamp series. They have a super high red ratio. Made in Germany.

Ushio Double Ended Enhanced Performance Opti-Red HPS Lamp 1000w
 
Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
I will agree with you. There are many ways to measure light. PAR/Lumen/RQE/etc... The most effective way to calculate your lights efficiency is, Photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD). This measures the actual number of photons hitting the canopy. They are all relative when knowing the specs of your lighting. Spectral emission and PPFD at the canopy are the most important factors in light calculations. The inverse square law, used in radiological practices, represent the intensity of the light at given distances from the light source. It is the opposite of the Kenitic energy theory.
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Yes you are correct.
Lumens is a bad way to measure light for plants was all i was as saying mate.
 
Darth Vapour

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
USHIO makes a Super High Pressure Sodium Double Ended bulb/lamp in its Hi-LUX GRO lamp series. They have a super high red ratio. Made in Germany.

Ushio Double Ended Enhanced Performance Opti-Red HPS Lamp 1000w
Click to expand...
lol and the lowest par rating yee haw look at the test results oshio came in last
 
Trippyness

Trippyness

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
USHIO makes a Super High Pressure Sodium Double Ended bulb/lamp in its Hi-LUX GRO lamp series. They have a super high red ratio. Made in Germany.

Ushio Double Ended Enhanced Performance Opti-Red HPS Lamp 1000w
Click to expand...
I have seen these as well as every other DE bulb. I have been looking into everything before I make my huge buy this weekend.

Thanks for that anyways mate.
 
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