wiimb
New Member
1. What water level do i keep the water at?Answer; The water level should always be kept just under the net pot.Reason; If you were growing in soil and as the plants roots get bigger you would not remove some of the soil so the roots can get more fresh air, so why in dwc??? The water is the medium just the same as soil and clay balls.
2. . Topping off, Do you just top the bucket off with water or water with nutes? Answer; Totally depends on your reading from the present day and day before.Example; this is what i did, hope it helps........ say my plant drank 4 liter and her ppm went up therefore she aint drank nutes just water, i would 2 liter plain water and 2 liter mix (water + nutes) that way it sort of balanced the readings out. But if say my ppm was 1200 one day and the nect it was 800 and she drank 4ltrs she wud get 4 ltrs mix nutes. I said i would add to this thread with more information when i get more, well maybe this might help.......Here is a example of my readings from yesterday and today, i do this daily.Hopefully might help someone understand on adding mix/water........... View attachment 1823438
3. Nutes, once you get your desired ppm, do you maintain that same level as the plant consumes them? Or do you let the nutes get down to a certain level first?Answer; People normally keep there ppm around a desired reading yes.Why; Because that way they can work around one reading and the the plant will adjust to the slighest hiccup....
4. What should my P.H be?Answer! Most recommend between 5.5-6.5, i like to keep mine at 5.7-5.8.
5. What should my PPM be?Answer this various from a range of different things and ways.
My Example! Ill try and explain what i do daily with my plants, bare with me lol!!
This is a write up i helped some one out with I check the readings i taken from the day before and i the check in each bucket there ph, ppm. work out what i water/nutes i need to add. example; if my ppm was 850 one day and then it was 680 the next day, i would add how ever many liters she drank with new water and nutes. but sometimes the readings are hard to understand sometimes, for example; I checked my ppm on my big plant and i was 1103, way too high, which meant she has only drank water and no nutes, she needed 6 ltrs added so i added 2 ltrs mix-water with nutes and 4 ltrs plain water, ppm went down to 800-850, (cant rember the exact reading)some times your ppm will tell you that the nute mix is too strong but sometimes it doesn't always ball down to the reading you get its down to how the plant looks also.few weeks of you doing there readings and getting used to how much the drink you will be fine and get used to it so easy and you dont even realise how easy it is till a few weeks in
I can look in my buckets and just look and say she needs 4 ltrs or 3ltrs or 1 ltr etc....... and i am right every time as i see the water level diffenrces ever day and get so used to it, its like a 6 sense lol Hope that make sense
What is PPM?Answer;PPM is very easily defined as Parts Per Million and can be used as the measurement of a number of different things. More commonly in the hydroponics world, this measurement is used to measure the amount of Total Dissolved Solids in your nutrient solution or how much Co2 is in your atmosphere.
What is EC?Answer; EC is a unit of measure to gauge the Electrical Conductivity of a solution. An EC meter applies an electrical voltage to the solution and reads the conductivity that is produced from the motion of mineral Ions.
6. When should my Res be changed?Answer; Reservoirs should be changed minimum 7 days/one week .Other reason for a Res change Smelling, Murky Water, Algae build up and just plain old dirty water
7. Can you use jiffy pellets for DWC???Answer; Yes!
8. What temp does my Res need to be??Answer; The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen.BUT!! I have nothing in my Buckets to keep the temps down and i know i should but, i have found that the frozen bottle trick is bollocks, last a hour for me so no good in my mind. I also could invest in a dwc cooler, they are really highly recommended, but i have not got the money to buy one
Even tho i never added anything to cool my water did not mean i was able to still grow lovely monster plants, it just means that the quality is going to be a bit poorer. I grew 2 lovely monster and never cooled the water at all, only when the got a res change..
9.How do I identify and prevent Root Rot? Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly.Special tips for bubblers Have an empty, sterile bucket to place the bubbling bucket into when changing nutes. The extra bucket method allows me to run a gallon of water through the pot and flush the grorocs and root mass of any salt build up. Wash the bucket prior to refilling with solution."
10. Some usefull tips i have found!Also loads of more information, everything you need on root rot, too much for me to type up and break down!
http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1289.htm
11. Some very useful Video;
[video=youtube;yUMqZcbPufs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUMqZcbPufs[/video][video=youtube;_695SfZY9QA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_695SfZY9QA[/video]
[video=youtube;iUr670ShjsI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUr670ShjsI&feature=related[/video]
[video=youtube;uNO8nNV_Dd0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNO8nNV_Dd0&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/video][video=youtube;vq0ppgAvm8M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq0ppgAvm8M&feature=related[/video][video=youtube;B1fXmgHxAJw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1fXmgHxAJw&feature=related[/video]
^^^this guy makes it look easy than normal
[video=youtube;CEXW8wb7jeY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEXW8wb7jeY&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL95FEC7D4F1B0A2F5[/video][video=youtube;ut5YfFB708M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut5YfFB708M&feature=bf_next&list=PL95FEC7D4F1B0A2F5&lf=results_video[/video]
Some more useful information...........What kind of pump should I use?/How much air does each bucket need? it is extremely important to ensure plenty of oxygen to the nutrients/rootzone in bubblers.
One of the things that separates this hydroponic method from some others is that the plant roots sit directly in the nutrient solution. Without proper oxygenation of the solution,the roots would quickly drown and the plant die. In addition, the fact that high amounts of oxygen are delivered directly to the roots is what makes this hydroponic method the fastest in growth rate. Much is known about what the optimum conditions are for growing dope and subsequently, growrooms can be setup to ensure that all the optimum conditions for the plant are met. Once this is achieved,the single limiting factor in plant growth is how much oxygen the root system can be provided. With the DWC method,lots of oxygen is pumped in directly to the roots, allowing the plant to grow at its full potential with an amazing growth rate. Be sure to supply your nutrient solution with enough oxygen from a proper pump. When purchasing a pump,be sure that it will be able to deliver 500cc's-600cc's/min to your bucket(s) per gallon of nutrient solution. This will ensure that the roots are recieving enough oxygen to be able to grow at optimum rate. One of the best pumps that I have found for a 5 gallon container is the "Elite 802". These pumps have an air/oxygen output of 1500cc/min X 2. For a 5 gallon bucket, this pump would be able to deliverHow do I sterilize and disinfect my system?
Sterilizing and maintaining clean conditions inside your hydroponics/aeroponics systems is extremely important.
Keeping cloning, vegetative and flowering systems clean gives your plants a fighting chance against pythium (root rot) and other harmful diseases, ensuring healthy and vigorous crops. Why? Cleanliness is particularly important in closed (recirculating) hydroponic/aeroponic systems due to the favorable conditions these systems present to water and airborne diseases. Failure to periodically clean a system can result in stressed plants becoming infected and rapidly spreading disease throughout the entire system. Once infected, the entire crop will experience reduced vigor and yield. Prevention is the best ‘cure’ for disease.
Sterilization between crops, adding anti-pathogen additives, and attention to system design can help combat disease. Materials: · Hot water · 35% hydrogen peroxide
(3% and 17% available at pharmacies, 35% at hydro stores). Oxidizes, then quickly (24 hrs) degrades to water (Sterilizing strength for 1-4 hours). · 99% Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Kills bacteria and viruses on contact. Note: bleach is not recommended. It leaves a toxic residue.
^^like this one^^^
System sterilization:
Note: Wear gloves when handling concentrated peroxide. Do not use bleach. Strong h2o2 will not ‘burn off’ slime and salt buildup by itself. · Remove all plant matter from system · Pre-flush netcups/pots with water and inspect to ensure all roots have been removed. Put netcups/pots in dishwasher, then remove and soak in strong h2o2. · If infection was present, replace any grow medium; soak gro-rocks in strong h2o2 · Recommended: remove and replace all irrigation. Biologically-resistant poly tubing is can be cleaned and re-used. · Soak all ‘accessories’ in strong h2o2 (misters too, if possible) system cleaning · Remove and sterilize reservoir by initally flushing with water and wiping with a clean cloth, then spraying 50% h2o2 with a spray bottle on all surfaces. Wait for one hour, then thouroughyl flush with water twice. · Flush system with water and do a pre-wipe (hot water + h2o2) to remove salt and slime buildup on all system surfaces. · Mix up a very strong (ie. 20%) H2o2 solution and spray it onto all system surfaces and allow to dry. · Run re-connected system with 10% h202 + hot water for several hours, dump, and flush again thoroughly with water. Don’t plant right away!
^ same again!
How can I get rid of slimy roots?
To prevent future outbreaks of algae growth. To correct any problems with current algae growth,follow the simple instructions here and the problem should be corrected in a few days. Make a solution (the amount equivalent to the size of your bucket) with plain water and 10ml of H2o2 (Hydrogen peroxide) added per gallon of water. Empty the bucket containing the algae growth and scrub well. Pour the H2o2 solution into the bucket through the top of your net pot. Let this sit for about 1/2 hour and then dump and rinse through the top of the net pot with plain pH adjusted (pH5.5) water. Dump again and then fill with your standard nute solution with 5ml of H2o2 added. In a few days,when no signs of the slime are visible,dump the bucket and fill with your standard nute solution.
Also heard Human Urine is a good fert, not for me that like but apparently gives good results. Also heard the Womans Pill is good for plants mmmmm i dont know for sure about that one like, but saying that i never thought of using urine either
Advanced Plant Nutrition Modern plant Nutrition Plant Growth Hormones Humic and fulvic Acids Enzymes Phosphorous and Potassium - Bud and Bloom Boosters Silicates Phospho Lipid Technology A Healthy Rhizosphere.
How to use reservoir additives in your nutrient solutionUsing Ionic Nutrients Using CANNA Aqua Vega & Flores Nutrients Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Advanced Nutrients Modern Plant Nutrition Over the last ten years, hydroponic plant science has moved away from the simple addition of bare bones nutrients to a sterile root zone. It is now understood that there are more factors to plant nutrition than essential macro and micronutrients.
Modern plant nutrition has three main areas of concentration Basic plant nutrition: Newer nutrients are now chelated, using agents such as fulvic and amino acids to make the uptake of micronutrients and other charged molecules much easier and more accessible to the plant. Providing hormones and metabolic enhancers: –
There are a variety of nutrient additives and foliar sprays whose essential function is to speed the plant up, making the plant work faster and harder, have more energy, and ultimately produce more Root zone health: The importance of healthy roots can not be overstated. There has been alot of research in this area - we have an entire Root Health FAQ to check out Plant Growth Hormones Plant hormone research has come a long way in the last few years.
The natural plant growth regulators (or plant hormones) are gibberellic acid , ethylene gas, abscisic acid (ABA), 4 auxins, and several cytokinins, which all have their own specific effects on growth and development in plants. The main advancement that has been made which is useful in hydroponics is with cytokins. Most cytokin research has been concentrated in figuring out the appropriate and most elevated amount that can be delivered to the plant without any harmful side effects.
There is a wide range of products now available that are made of ascophylum nodosum, the north Alaskan sea kelp form which most cytokins etc. are derived from. Growth Max - A seaweed extract made for foliar feeding plants. An excellent and inexpensive way to give your plants an extra boost. Nitrozime - very popular- growers swear by the results - Nitrozime provides cytokinins to help control and regulate germination, root development, nutrition uptake, plant tissue composition, flowering. seed and fruit set. B'cuzz - Atami's line of stimulators are formulated from a combination of two kinds of seawwed, Laminaria digitata and Ascophyllum nodosum.
These solutions help plants handle stress - 3 formulas, one for rooting, one for growth and one for bloom. Liquid Karma - If you are looking for just one thing to add to nutrient regimen, Liquid Karma is the one.It is good for every stage of growth and will definately increase branching points, fruit and flower sets and overall yield by as much as 30% . Liquid Karma Chelates micronutrients through amino and fulvic acids, and shuttles them into plant cells, increasing metabolic rates and conserves plant energy. Full of B-vitamins and other stress relieving components w/ large amount of cytokyns derived from ascophylum nodosum north atlantic sea kelp. SuperNova - SuperNova contains high concentrations of cytokines extracted from Ascophyllum Nodosum.
Cytokines increase cell division, which promotes vigorous plant and root growth.
SuperNova also contains growth precursors, vitamins, and amino acids. Super Nova is made by general hydroponics to work with Dark Energy.
Humic and Fulvic Acids
The primary benefit of both humic and fulvic acids is improved plant growth. There are three types of humates: humic acids, fulvic acids and humin. Only humic and fulvic acids currently play a role in hydroponics.
For those eco-concious growers out there, there are no known detrimental side effects from using humic acids. Humic Acid Humic acids change the turbidity of the cell and in effect swell the cell up with more water, creating an osmotic imbalance and promoting the uptake of nutrient salts. An added bonus is seen in root cells when micoryzae are looking for their much needed first contact - because the cell is more swelled up it is easier for the microzyzzae to attach. Humic acids contain fulvic acid Fossil Fuel - FossilFuel employs high-quality humic acids to help plants resist environmental stresses, to improve the plants ability to absorb nutrients and water, and stimulates plant growth through increased cell division. It is HIGHLY ABSORBABLE, which is not true of most humates.
Rare Earth - A rich blend of silicon, humates and 72 rare minerals. Blend with rooting media, top dress, or add directly to nutrient solution to develop a protective silicon shield. Allows for stronger development and heavier fruit. Diamond Black - Blended with rooting media, Diamond Black will slowly break down adding Humates to the root environment. This is a pure mined material and meets all organic standards for crop production. Humates released into the plant's environment regulate the flow and enhance the transport of plant nutrients Fulvic Acid A long with its chelating properties, fulvic acid is also a key factor in the Kreb cycle, the plant's respiratory and metabolism system. Providing this molecule reserves a plant's key energy reserves. A recent study showed that plants treated with fulvic acid experienced a 36% increase in produce weight at harvest, a 36.5% increase plant growth, and they flowered on average four days ahead of the control plants. Studies indicate the use of humates in hydroponics results in bigger plants and bigger veggies and quicker harvests. Pure Fulvic Acid - A great deal on pure fulvic acid. These acids are small active organic molecules and are excellent chelators which penetrate through plant surfaces and roots. The results are healthier and stronger plants, decreased water stress and improved soil moisture and structure. Diamond Nectar - Diamond Nectar is a Fulvic Acid extract from a combination of unique Leonardite sources providing the highest availability and diversity of these bioactive pant compounds. The General Hydroponics research team has assayed over 300 different Leonardite sources around the world to create a proprietary, pH balanced, fulvic acid with maximum agronomic benefits. Liquid Karma - Liquid Karma Chelates micronutrients through amino and fulvic acids, and shuttles them into plant cells, increasing metabolic rates and conserves plant energy. Full of B-vitamins and other stress relieving components w/ large amount of cytokyns derived from ascophylum nodosum north atlantic sea kelp.
Gndma Enggy's Fulvic Acid - From Avanced Nutrients Band you can trust! Enzymes Along with the major plant hormone research, enzymes have become the recent focus of much attention. Smaller yet amazingly powerful -- enzymes have a variety of important benefits for the hydro grower. There are many different enzymes that all have different functions.
The hydroponic growing community is just beginning to get a hold on what they all do. There are two types of enzymes that we are most concerned with. There are those that accelerate sugar/ resin production and work to create flavor and aroma. There are others that break down dying and dead plant proteins into their component parts – amino acids, lipids and smaller molecules which can be reabsorbed by the plant. These Banana Manna Banana Manna contains concentrated organic extracts of banana, mango, guava and other exotic tropical plants rich in hormones and vitamins known to increase essential oil production in plants. It make the harvest that much sweeter Cannazyme Cannazym is a high-quality enzyme product. It consists of more than 15 different kinds of enzymes to which vitamins and extracts of desert plants are added. Cannazym speeds up the process of breaking down dead root material and activates the micro-organisms. In addition to this, Cannazym facilitates the improved absorption of nutrients and increases the resistance against pathogenic organisms. Hygrozyme Hygrozyme Enzymatic formula prevents the formation of pythium and algae, speeds up degradation of dead organic matters and facilitates chemical nutrient assimilation. It will create healthy white root growth in your plants. It will not harm beneficial microbes SensiZym is a super concentrate of over 80 different enzymes, each having specific functions that enhance plant and root growth.
Part of the Advanced Nutrients line.
Great for soil or hydroponics. Bud and bloom boosters Phosphorous and potassium are the two macro nutrients directly involved in fruit/flower formation, structure and overall taste, potency an aroma. A lot of research has been done on these ever-important nutrients. Feeding curves have been generated, allowing growers to apply a more exact diet to their fruiting flowering plants throughout the bloom phase. Ionic Boost- Ionic Boost is a nutrient supplement designed to be used in the final few weeks before harvest. Boost allows the grower easy control of the extra Phosphorous and Potassium that can lead to bumper yields. Boost is an ideal addition to Ionic nutrient solutions but can also be used very effectively with any good quality nutrient solution of the Bloom variety Monster Bloom - An azure colored product from Grotek erives its strength from super phosphates and buffers that deliver enhanced harvest results never achieved before. Blessed with this blue powder, plants Increase OIL production! And produce Extra Large Buds! Kool Bloom - Designed for use in the second half of reproductive development, this concentrated nutrient supplement increases the production of essential oils and fragrance in flowers.
CANNA PK 13-14 - contributes to improved bloom and fructification. Unlike other blooming aids, Canna PK13-14 works rapidly and is becomes immediately available to the plant, because it requires a very small amount of absorption energy. This allows the plant to fully focus on blooming. Advanced Nutrients Big Bud - is Big Bud's plant specific ratios of Phosphorous, Potassium, Magnesium and Amino Acids.
Big Bud will dramatically increase bud growth, width, weight and resin production like no other bloom enhancing product can.
Advanced Nutrients Over Drive - Overdrive is an ultra premium flower booster with an extremely extensive and very complex array of phosphorus and potassium sources. Hormones and catalytic agents are added in order to pack on extra girth and weight that produce unparalleled flower and oil production during the critical last weeks of flowering when plants show the most sizeable gains.
Silicates Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue helping plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost. For use in container gardens or soilless hydrogardening applications Pro Silicate - Pro-Silicate toughens the cell walls of your plant to form a physical barrier against insects and disease.
The major building block for plant cells, silicone increases resistance to mildews, fungus and insect attacks, where the stronger cell walls counter predatory probings. Pro Silicate protects your plants from wilting and droughts by acting as an insulation against water loss through transpiration at higher temperatures. Plants can grow at higher temperatures. Will also help increase flower count and prolong bloom life.
Silica Blast - Silicate is a beneficial nutrient supplement to be used in conjunction with standard nutrient program. Silica Blast was designed by American Agritech to be used specifially with their Botanicare Line of products. phospholipid technology Phospholipid agents, are an extremely powerful group of activators & transporters of Humatic Isolates. The Phospholipid technologies developed by Dutch Master can be tailored to suit a wide range of Humatic Isolates as well as directing those isolates to activate specific subsystems of plant growth, development or physiology. Phospholipids create membranes in channel so that larger molecules can quickly enter a cell. Dutch Master Folitech Folitech Grow and Flower are two unique foliar sprays designed to enhance your plants ability to support and produce larger numbers of flowers than would normally be possible.
Folitech is a two stage product with a vegetative and a flowering formulation which are designed to be used at the appropriate stage of the plants development.
Dutch Master Penetrator How to use reservoir additives in your nutrient solution When using additives, it would be ideal to clean the reservoir every week. This is the way to keep your plants growing super strong, and to really keep things healthy and clean.
If you are going to change your reservoir about once a week, use the following method. First add the appropriate additives in the correct dosage. Add nutrients bringing the nutrient level to the desired level. ph balance the reservoir Throughout the week, when you fill up the reservoir, also add nutrients and pH the reservoir.
on’t add additives again until you clean and redo the reservoir Follow this to end when you use a flushing agent. Most people change their reservoir every 10-14 days – although this isn’t the absolute best, it is fine.
If you follow this then you will want to follow the following recipe add ½ the amount of original additives at 1 week. (explain) First add the appropriate additives in the correct dosage. Add nutrients bringing the nutrient level to the desired level. ph balance the reservoir Throughout the week, when you fill up the reservoir, also add nutrients and pH the reservoir. At the end of one week, add 1/2 the amount of original additives as you originally added. Follow this to end when you use a flushing agent.
Ionic Ionic is a nice, one part nutrient that has a separate formula for vegetative growth and one for bloom growth. We recommend this nutrient because it is so simple to use. Ionic is great used with any of the additives listed above. For best results we highly recommend using at least Liquid Karma. If you are growing any kind of plant that requires budding, fruit or flowering, you should use the superphosphate Ionic Boost in the end of your cycle, about two weeks before harvest. For best results, keep the pH of your nutrient solution between 5.8 – 6.2 Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Botanicare Pure Blend Pro is an organic nutrient with 10-15% pure mineral content. It contains absorbable forms of iron, calcium and phosphorous. The phosphorous comes from pure rock phosphate.
PureBlend is a one-part nutrient with a vegetative and a bloom formula.The line includes a calcium magnesium micronutrient Boost called Cal-Mag Plus which is to be used at the end of the vegetative period and throughout bloom. It helps to prevent micronutrient deficiencies and lockout. Liquid Karma was made to be used with this line, as well as Silica Blast and HydroGuard, a bacterial innoculant and fungicide. We also recommend using one of the enzymatic formulas listed above. For those who are concerned about large flowers and fruits, we recommend using Pure Blend Pro Bloom for soil. It is a superphosphate and will work well with hydro plants needing that extra boost to finish. or alternatively use big bud, monster bloom etc. Also use banana manaa for resin sugar building. Clearex is a great flushing agent and is made to work with the Botanicare Line. PLEASE NOTE: Many hydro growers have begun noticing a problem with the feeding chart/directions on the PureBlend Pro bottles. If you follow their directions you will find that the strenght of your solution is way too high. It is best to monitor the PPM in your solution. Find out what your plant needs & keep your solution at that level, or maybe just a little higher. ... If you don't have a way of monitoring your solution, we HIGHLY reccomend getting a meter --- but if you want to try without it, just use a little less than the directions call for (this is generally good advice anyway) For r best results, keep the pH of your nutrient solution between 5.8 – 6.2
Advanced Nutrients Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom Advanced Nutrients are some of the best nutrients on the hydroponic market as well as some of the most complicated –there are many additives and it can be slightly overwhelming to manage at first. Generally they suggest you use only RO water and keep a ph of 5.6 until about 4 weeks before harvesting. (look this up)
What makes the nutes themselves special is that the micro nutrients are individually chelated with their appropriate micronutrients (as opposed to CANNA which does batch chelation) Nutrients come from premium mineral sources and they are added in a+b format. Always add (before you add nutrients)
SensiZym: enzymatic formula - breaks down decomposing plant proteins B-52 ascophylum nodosum b-1 vitamin mix Piranha benefical fungus Tarantula benefical bacteria (25 more)
Voodoo juice primary benefical bacteria (5 strains) Silica Fulvic acid Final Phasea flushing agent for use at the end of the cycle - removes built up salts, etc.
ud Blood to speed up transition from veg to bloom Big Bud to provide large fruit set (3-4 weeks) – extreme high in potassium Overdrive – has high amount of potassium & phosphorous which promotes more sugar, resin, taste and aroma. Helps to finish the fruit. Can still use Banana Manna - resin and flavor enhancer. Great for any kind of product in which flavor/ fruit is desireable.
Canna Aqua Vega & Flores Canna Aqua Vega & Flores is a premium two-part nutrients from Holland. CANNA has a unique line of nutrients – all the micronutrients are batch chelated using a blend of humic fulvic and amino acids, this provides a greater micronutrient absorption. They are also extremely ph balanced. Their line inc. the following additives which we would recommendd. 9we have seen this line excel with ultra healthy plants yielding large and super tasty fruits.
CANNA PK 13-14 – add only in weeks 3 & 4 of bloom.
Rhizotonic - best for beginning stages of growth
Cannazyme - to be used throughout the life cycle of the plants We also recommend using a superphosphate for finishing such as Big Bud, Overdrive, monster bloom, etc.(last 3 weeks) Banana Manna& flushing agent. & Liquid KarmaA
excellent write up to do with cooling you DWC Buckets, could be useful to loads of beginners and others
How to keep your reservoir cool Maintaining a highly aerated root zone at optimum temperature is key to achieving high yields and problem-free grows.
This FAQ focuses on indoor hydroponic reservoir cooling options.
Why do I need cool root temperatures? High root zone temperatures often plague indoor growers running water culture (aero/bubbler/dwc/hydro) systems. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting, which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases dissolved oxygen (DO) levels. Rapid plant growth, combined with low DO levels, can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium. The key to maximum growth is to keep the air temperature at 75-80F, but the root zone at 68F or less. Note: the reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone - irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots. Optimum root growth occurs at 70-75F; however, destructive root diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures. Maintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 68F maximizes root growth and DO, and inhibits pythium. Reservoir cooling options: Warm summer temps often require aggressive cooling measures. Bubblers and dwc are difficult systems to temperature regulate due to their (usually) small volumes and lack of external reservoir. Note: spray / drip / mist / circulate nutrients on a frequent basis to equalize reservoir and root zone temperatures. Intermittent spraying may require a slightly lower tank temp, to compensate for system heating occurring during "off" spray cycle. (ie. Keep tank temp around 64F for intermittent spray cycles, 68F for continuous spraying). Note: submersible pumps add heat. Use an external/inline pump to minimize heat transfer. High quality digital thermometers are recommended. Add cold water when topping up. Note: abrupt changes in temperature may shock roots. Frozen pop bottles/milk jugs. Fill to ¾. Keep extras in the freezer to replace thawed bottles with new frozen ones, replace as necessary. Note: "Freezy packs" tend to crack and leak. Increase size of reservoir Larger volumes are slower to warm up, pH/ppm is more stable and tank changes are less frequent. Put reservoir/bubbling buckets onto floor, or set on concrete blocks to conduct heat away from the water. Insulate Paint all exposed system surfaces white or use reflective material (such as mylar or reflectix). Wrap insulation around tank. Use a camping cooler for a reservoir (pre-insulated and comes with a drain!). Swamp cooler Blow a fan directly across the surface of reservoir for excellent evaporative cooling. This method works well (expect a 10F drop in res. temp), but humidity and tds will increase, and more frequent topping up will be required. 430 scrog "?add a computer fan to a duct blowing into your tank (cut air exit holes). You can run it on a timer (1 hr on, 1 hr off). I run a float valve to keep it topped up." Make sure lid and reservoir can be easily removed. Blow air through the root zone Divert small amounts of cool intake air directly into the root zone. Remote reservoir In-room reservoirs will quickly heat up to room temp. Put the reservoir (and ballasts) outside of the grow room to minimize tank heating. Airstone / Power head / Venturi air supply should be drawn from a cool source (ie. Cool outside air). Peltier coil (Thermoelectric chillers). (Bayou grower) "I use an Ice Probe ($125) and it works well. It uses 50 watts and pulls the temp down 4 degrees under ambient. Cools 10 gal or less." (see coolworksinc.com for more models) Reservoir chillers These are electric A/C units made specifically for cooling water. (Search for "Aquarium chillers") (smokin fl) "?a heavy box with fan and compressor coils, with a 5 foot refrigeration line with a titanium coil at the end. All you do is plug it in, set the controller and put the coil in the res. Circulate nutes for the best cooling. Get a bigger model than you need." Cooling coil A coil of stainless steel is put into the reservoir, cold tap water is trickled through the coil and the overflow runs down the drain. A circulation pump in thte rez makes the cooling more efficient. Adjust tap flow as necessary (Water use can reasonable). No power, unlimited cooling, quiet. Making your own cooling coil: Scrap yards and appliance repair shops are full of A/C and fridge coils: 4-20 loops (more surface area is better), with male garden hose connectors welded to each end (Don't use copper or nickel coils). Available in Hydro stores (around $100 cdn). Note: Cooling coils may not be useful for those on metered water. DIY heat exchangers: try hot tub suppliers, home brew stores.
This is a post from a thread that i think will be good for this thread, the person who wrote this is mr. green thumb 01
I asked him if i could use his post as his thread is not a sticky and i dint want this information getting lost so i put it here 22/12/11 WIIMB!
Tip for keeping air stones clean
For a DWC user air or dissolved oxygen (DO) is the most vital necessity. Usually after about the 6th week of flowering air stones become clogged and are not as effective. For people that use a single outlet pump with a multi diaphram air divider the air always wants to go where there is less resistance. This will leave your clean air stones working even better and the clogged ones even worse. Eventually if you dont clean them they will become completely clogged. Some of us like to just spend the money and replace them every so often. But I like to recycle whenever possible. I have usually just soaked them in peroxide overnight and it did the trick, usually. A few of my micro pore air stones though would just refuse to un-clog. For some reason I got the idea to boil them for 5 minutes and after that I let them cool down to the touch (still warm) and blew through them and they were completely cleaned out. I mean like brand new. So from no on I will just boil my air stones to clean them its faster, more effective and cheaper than peroxide.
Hope you like my thread guys, any questions as away!!!
2. . Topping off, Do you just top the bucket off with water or water with nutes? Answer; Totally depends on your reading from the present day and day before.Example; this is what i did, hope it helps........ say my plant drank 4 liter and her ppm went up therefore she aint drank nutes just water, i would 2 liter plain water and 2 liter mix (water + nutes) that way it sort of balanced the readings out. But if say my ppm was 1200 one day and the nect it was 800 and she drank 4ltrs she wud get 4 ltrs mix nutes. I said i would add to this thread with more information when i get more, well maybe this might help.......Here is a example of my readings from yesterday and today, i do this daily.Hopefully might help someone understand on adding mix/water........... View attachment 1823438
3. Nutes, once you get your desired ppm, do you maintain that same level as the plant consumes them? Or do you let the nutes get down to a certain level first?Answer; People normally keep there ppm around a desired reading yes.Why; Because that way they can work around one reading and the the plant will adjust to the slighest hiccup....
4. What should my P.H be?Answer! Most recommend between 5.5-6.5, i like to keep mine at 5.7-5.8.
5. What should my PPM be?Answer this various from a range of different things and ways.
My Example! Ill try and explain what i do daily with my plants, bare with me lol!!
This is a write up i helped some one out with I check the readings i taken from the day before and i the check in each bucket there ph, ppm. work out what i water/nutes i need to add. example; if my ppm was 850 one day and then it was 680 the next day, i would add how ever many liters she drank with new water and nutes. but sometimes the readings are hard to understand sometimes, for example; I checked my ppm on my big plant and i was 1103, way too high, which meant she has only drank water and no nutes, she needed 6 ltrs added so i added 2 ltrs mix-water with nutes and 4 ltrs plain water, ppm went down to 800-850, (cant rember the exact reading)some times your ppm will tell you that the nute mix is too strong but sometimes it doesn't always ball down to the reading you get its down to how the plant looks also.few weeks of you doing there readings and getting used to how much the drink you will be fine and get used to it so easy and you dont even realise how easy it is till a few weeks in
I can look in my buckets and just look and say she needs 4 ltrs or 3ltrs or 1 ltr etc....... and i am right every time as i see the water level diffenrces ever day and get so used to it, its like a 6 sense lol Hope that make sense What is PPM?Answer;PPM is very easily defined as Parts Per Million and can be used as the measurement of a number of different things. More commonly in the hydroponics world, this measurement is used to measure the amount of Total Dissolved Solids in your nutrient solution or how much Co2 is in your atmosphere.
What is EC?Answer; EC is a unit of measure to gauge the Electrical Conductivity of a solution. An EC meter applies an electrical voltage to the solution and reads the conductivity that is produced from the motion of mineral Ions.
6. When should my Res be changed?Answer; Reservoirs should be changed minimum 7 days/one week .Other reason for a Res change Smelling, Murky Water, Algae build up and just plain old dirty water
7. Can you use jiffy pellets for DWC???Answer; Yes!
8. What temp does my Res need to be??Answer; The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen.BUT!! I have nothing in my Buckets to keep the temps down and i know i should but, i have found that the frozen bottle trick is bollocks, last a hour for me so no good in my mind. I also could invest in a dwc cooler, they are really highly recommended, but i have not got the money to buy one
Even tho i never added anything to cool my water did not mean i was able to still grow lovely monster plants, it just means that the quality is going to be a bit poorer. I grew 2 lovely monster and never cooled the water at all, only when the got a res change.. 9.How do I identify and prevent Root Rot? Note: Root damage is permanent; new root hairs can form, but damaged roots will not regenerate. Lightly infected roots may turn white again if treated promptly.Special tips for bubblers Have an empty, sterile bucket to place the bubbling bucket into when changing nutes. The extra bucket method allows me to run a gallon of water through the pot and flush the grorocs and root mass of any salt build up. Wash the bucket prior to refilling with solution."
10. Some usefull tips i have found!Also loads of more information, everything you need on root rot, too much for me to type up and break down!
http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1289.htm
11. Some very useful Video;
[video=youtube;yUMqZcbPufs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUMqZcbPufs[/video][video=youtube;_695SfZY9QA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_695SfZY9QA[/video]
[video=youtube;iUr670ShjsI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUr670ShjsI&feature=related[/video]
[video=youtube;uNO8nNV_Dd0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNO8nNV_Dd0&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/video][video=youtube;vq0ppgAvm8M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq0ppgAvm8M&feature=related[/video][video=youtube;B1fXmgHxAJw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1fXmgHxAJw&feature=related[/video]
^^^this guy makes it look easy than normal
[video=youtube;CEXW8wb7jeY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEXW8wb7jeY&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL95FEC7D4F1B0A2F5[/video][video=youtube;ut5YfFB708M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut5YfFB708M&feature=bf_next&list=PL95FEC7D4F1B0A2F5&lf=results_video[/video]
Some more useful information...........What kind of pump should I use?/How much air does each bucket need? it is extremely important to ensure plenty of oxygen to the nutrients/rootzone in bubblers.
One of the things that separates this hydroponic method from some others is that the plant roots sit directly in the nutrient solution. Without proper oxygenation of the solution,the roots would quickly drown and the plant die. In addition, the fact that high amounts of oxygen are delivered directly to the roots is what makes this hydroponic method the fastest in growth rate. Much is known about what the optimum conditions are for growing dope and subsequently, growrooms can be setup to ensure that all the optimum conditions for the plant are met. Once this is achieved,the single limiting factor in plant growth is how much oxygen the root system can be provided. With the DWC method,lots of oxygen is pumped in directly to the roots, allowing the plant to grow at its full potential with an amazing growth rate. Be sure to supply your nutrient solution with enough oxygen from a proper pump. When purchasing a pump,be sure that it will be able to deliver 500cc's-600cc's/min to your bucket(s) per gallon of nutrient solution. This will ensure that the roots are recieving enough oxygen to be able to grow at optimum rate. One of the best pumps that I have found for a 5 gallon container is the "Elite 802". These pumps have an air/oxygen output of 1500cc/min X 2. For a 5 gallon bucket, this pump would be able to deliverHow do I sterilize and disinfect my system?
Sterilizing and maintaining clean conditions inside your hydroponics/aeroponics systems is extremely important.
Keeping cloning, vegetative and flowering systems clean gives your plants a fighting chance against pythium (root rot) and other harmful diseases, ensuring healthy and vigorous crops. Why? Cleanliness is particularly important in closed (recirculating) hydroponic/aeroponic systems due to the favorable conditions these systems present to water and airborne diseases. Failure to periodically clean a system can result in stressed plants becoming infected and rapidly spreading disease throughout the entire system. Once infected, the entire crop will experience reduced vigor and yield. Prevention is the best ‘cure’ for disease.
Sterilization between crops, adding anti-pathogen additives, and attention to system design can help combat disease. Materials: · Hot water · 35% hydrogen peroxide
(3% and 17% available at pharmacies, 35% at hydro stores). Oxidizes, then quickly (24 hrs) degrades to water (Sterilizing strength for 1-4 hours). · 99% Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Kills bacteria and viruses on contact. Note: bleach is not recommended. It leaves a toxic residue.
^^like this one^^^
System sterilization:
Note: Wear gloves when handling concentrated peroxide. Do not use bleach. Strong h2o2 will not ‘burn off’ slime and salt buildup by itself. · Remove all plant matter from system · Pre-flush netcups/pots with water and inspect to ensure all roots have been removed. Put netcups/pots in dishwasher, then remove and soak in strong h2o2. · If infection was present, replace any grow medium; soak gro-rocks in strong h2o2 · Recommended: remove and replace all irrigation. Biologically-resistant poly tubing is can be cleaned and re-used. · Soak all ‘accessories’ in strong h2o2 (misters too, if possible) system cleaning · Remove and sterilize reservoir by initally flushing with water and wiping with a clean cloth, then spraying 50% h2o2 with a spray bottle on all surfaces. Wait for one hour, then thouroughyl flush with water twice. · Flush system with water and do a pre-wipe (hot water + h2o2) to remove salt and slime buildup on all system surfaces. · Mix up a very strong (ie. 20%) H2o2 solution and spray it onto all system surfaces and allow to dry. · Run re-connected system with 10% h202 + hot water for several hours, dump, and flush again thoroughly with water. Don’t plant right away!
^ same again!
How can I get rid of slimy roots?
To prevent future outbreaks of algae growth. To correct any problems with current algae growth,follow the simple instructions here and the problem should be corrected in a few days. Make a solution (the amount equivalent to the size of your bucket) with plain water and 10ml of H2o2 (Hydrogen peroxide) added per gallon of water. Empty the bucket containing the algae growth and scrub well. Pour the H2o2 solution into the bucket through the top of your net pot. Let this sit for about 1/2 hour and then dump and rinse through the top of the net pot with plain pH adjusted (pH5.5) water. Dump again and then fill with your standard nute solution with 5ml of H2o2 added. In a few days,when no signs of the slime are visible,dump the bucket and fill with your standard nute solution.
Also heard Human Urine is a good fert, not for me that like but apparently gives good results. Also heard the Womans Pill is good for plants mmmmm i dont know for sure about that one like, but saying that i never thought of using urine either
Advanced Plant Nutrition Modern plant Nutrition Plant Growth Hormones Humic and fulvic Acids Enzymes Phosphorous and Potassium - Bud and Bloom Boosters Silicates Phospho Lipid Technology A Healthy Rhizosphere.
How to use reservoir additives in your nutrient solutionUsing Ionic Nutrients Using CANNA Aqua Vega & Flores Nutrients Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Advanced Nutrients Modern Plant Nutrition Over the last ten years, hydroponic plant science has moved away from the simple addition of bare bones nutrients to a sterile root zone. It is now understood that there are more factors to plant nutrition than essential macro and micronutrients.
Modern plant nutrition has three main areas of concentration Basic plant nutrition: Newer nutrients are now chelated, using agents such as fulvic and amino acids to make the uptake of micronutrients and other charged molecules much easier and more accessible to the plant. Providing hormones and metabolic enhancers: –
There are a variety of nutrient additives and foliar sprays whose essential function is to speed the plant up, making the plant work faster and harder, have more energy, and ultimately produce more Root zone health: The importance of healthy roots can not be overstated. There has been alot of research in this area - we have an entire Root Health FAQ to check out Plant Growth Hormones Plant hormone research has come a long way in the last few years.
The natural plant growth regulators (or plant hormones) are gibberellic acid , ethylene gas, abscisic acid (ABA), 4 auxins, and several cytokinins, which all have their own specific effects on growth and development in plants. The main advancement that has been made which is useful in hydroponics is with cytokins. Most cytokin research has been concentrated in figuring out the appropriate and most elevated amount that can be delivered to the plant without any harmful side effects.
There is a wide range of products now available that are made of ascophylum nodosum, the north Alaskan sea kelp form which most cytokins etc. are derived from. Growth Max - A seaweed extract made for foliar feeding plants. An excellent and inexpensive way to give your plants an extra boost. Nitrozime - very popular- growers swear by the results - Nitrozime provides cytokinins to help control and regulate germination, root development, nutrition uptake, plant tissue composition, flowering. seed and fruit set. B'cuzz - Atami's line of stimulators are formulated from a combination of two kinds of seawwed, Laminaria digitata and Ascophyllum nodosum.
These solutions help plants handle stress - 3 formulas, one for rooting, one for growth and one for bloom. Liquid Karma - If you are looking for just one thing to add to nutrient regimen, Liquid Karma is the one.It is good for every stage of growth and will definately increase branching points, fruit and flower sets and overall yield by as much as 30% . Liquid Karma Chelates micronutrients through amino and fulvic acids, and shuttles them into plant cells, increasing metabolic rates and conserves plant energy. Full of B-vitamins and other stress relieving components w/ large amount of cytokyns derived from ascophylum nodosum north atlantic sea kelp. SuperNova - SuperNova contains high concentrations of cytokines extracted from Ascophyllum Nodosum.
Cytokines increase cell division, which promotes vigorous plant and root growth.
SuperNova also contains growth precursors, vitamins, and amino acids. Super Nova is made by general hydroponics to work with Dark Energy.
Humic and Fulvic Acids
The primary benefit of both humic and fulvic acids is improved plant growth. There are three types of humates: humic acids, fulvic acids and humin. Only humic and fulvic acids currently play a role in hydroponics.
For those eco-concious growers out there, there are no known detrimental side effects from using humic acids. Humic Acid Humic acids change the turbidity of the cell and in effect swell the cell up with more water, creating an osmotic imbalance and promoting the uptake of nutrient salts. An added bonus is seen in root cells when micoryzae are looking for their much needed first contact - because the cell is more swelled up it is easier for the microzyzzae to attach. Humic acids contain fulvic acid Fossil Fuel - FossilFuel employs high-quality humic acids to help plants resist environmental stresses, to improve the plants ability to absorb nutrients and water, and stimulates plant growth through increased cell division. It is HIGHLY ABSORBABLE, which is not true of most humates.
Rare Earth - A rich blend of silicon, humates and 72 rare minerals. Blend with rooting media, top dress, or add directly to nutrient solution to develop a protective silicon shield. Allows for stronger development and heavier fruit. Diamond Black - Blended with rooting media, Diamond Black will slowly break down adding Humates to the root environment. This is a pure mined material and meets all organic standards for crop production. Humates released into the plant's environment regulate the flow and enhance the transport of plant nutrients Fulvic Acid A long with its chelating properties, fulvic acid is also a key factor in the Kreb cycle, the plant's respiratory and metabolism system. Providing this molecule reserves a plant's key energy reserves. A recent study showed that plants treated with fulvic acid experienced a 36% increase in produce weight at harvest, a 36.5% increase plant growth, and they flowered on average four days ahead of the control plants. Studies indicate the use of humates in hydroponics results in bigger plants and bigger veggies and quicker harvests. Pure Fulvic Acid - A great deal on pure fulvic acid. These acids are small active organic molecules and are excellent chelators which penetrate through plant surfaces and roots. The results are healthier and stronger plants, decreased water stress and improved soil moisture and structure. Diamond Nectar - Diamond Nectar is a Fulvic Acid extract from a combination of unique Leonardite sources providing the highest availability and diversity of these bioactive pant compounds. The General Hydroponics research team has assayed over 300 different Leonardite sources around the world to create a proprietary, pH balanced, fulvic acid with maximum agronomic benefits. Liquid Karma - Liquid Karma Chelates micronutrients through amino and fulvic acids, and shuttles them into plant cells, increasing metabolic rates and conserves plant energy. Full of B-vitamins and other stress relieving components w/ large amount of cytokyns derived from ascophylum nodosum north atlantic sea kelp.
Gndma Enggy's Fulvic Acid - From Avanced Nutrients Band you can trust! Enzymes Along with the major plant hormone research, enzymes have become the recent focus of much attention. Smaller yet amazingly powerful -- enzymes have a variety of important benefits for the hydro grower. There are many different enzymes that all have different functions.
The hydroponic growing community is just beginning to get a hold on what they all do. There are two types of enzymes that we are most concerned with. There are those that accelerate sugar/ resin production and work to create flavor and aroma. There are others that break down dying and dead plant proteins into their component parts – amino acids, lipids and smaller molecules which can be reabsorbed by the plant. These Banana Manna Banana Manna contains concentrated organic extracts of banana, mango, guava and other exotic tropical plants rich in hormones and vitamins known to increase essential oil production in plants. It make the harvest that much sweeter Cannazyme Cannazym is a high-quality enzyme product. It consists of more than 15 different kinds of enzymes to which vitamins and extracts of desert plants are added. Cannazym speeds up the process of breaking down dead root material and activates the micro-organisms. In addition to this, Cannazym facilitates the improved absorption of nutrients and increases the resistance against pathogenic organisms. Hygrozyme Hygrozyme Enzymatic formula prevents the formation of pythium and algae, speeds up degradation of dead organic matters and facilitates chemical nutrient assimilation. It will create healthy white root growth in your plants. It will not harm beneficial microbes SensiZym is a super concentrate of over 80 different enzymes, each having specific functions that enhance plant and root growth.
Part of the Advanced Nutrients line.
Great for soil or hydroponics. Bud and bloom boosters Phosphorous and potassium are the two macro nutrients directly involved in fruit/flower formation, structure and overall taste, potency an aroma. A lot of research has been done on these ever-important nutrients. Feeding curves have been generated, allowing growers to apply a more exact diet to their fruiting flowering plants throughout the bloom phase. Ionic Boost- Ionic Boost is a nutrient supplement designed to be used in the final few weeks before harvest. Boost allows the grower easy control of the extra Phosphorous and Potassium that can lead to bumper yields. Boost is an ideal addition to Ionic nutrient solutions but can also be used very effectively with any good quality nutrient solution of the Bloom variety Monster Bloom - An azure colored product from Grotek erives its strength from super phosphates and buffers that deliver enhanced harvest results never achieved before. Blessed with this blue powder, plants Increase OIL production! And produce Extra Large Buds! Kool Bloom - Designed for use in the second half of reproductive development, this concentrated nutrient supplement increases the production of essential oils and fragrance in flowers.
CANNA PK 13-14 - contributes to improved bloom and fructification. Unlike other blooming aids, Canna PK13-14 works rapidly and is becomes immediately available to the plant, because it requires a very small amount of absorption energy. This allows the plant to fully focus on blooming. Advanced Nutrients Big Bud - is Big Bud's plant specific ratios of Phosphorous, Potassium, Magnesium and Amino Acids.
Big Bud will dramatically increase bud growth, width, weight and resin production like no other bloom enhancing product can.
Advanced Nutrients Over Drive - Overdrive is an ultra premium flower booster with an extremely extensive and very complex array of phosphorus and potassium sources. Hormones and catalytic agents are added in order to pack on extra girth and weight that produce unparalleled flower and oil production during the critical last weeks of flowering when plants show the most sizeable gains.
Silicates Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue helping plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost. For use in container gardens or soilless hydrogardening applications Pro Silicate - Pro-Silicate toughens the cell walls of your plant to form a physical barrier against insects and disease.
The major building block for plant cells, silicone increases resistance to mildews, fungus and insect attacks, where the stronger cell walls counter predatory probings. Pro Silicate protects your plants from wilting and droughts by acting as an insulation against water loss through transpiration at higher temperatures. Plants can grow at higher temperatures. Will also help increase flower count and prolong bloom life.
Silica Blast - Silicate is a beneficial nutrient supplement to be used in conjunction with standard nutrient program. Silica Blast was designed by American Agritech to be used specifially with their Botanicare Line of products. phospholipid technology Phospholipid agents, are an extremely powerful group of activators & transporters of Humatic Isolates. The Phospholipid technologies developed by Dutch Master can be tailored to suit a wide range of Humatic Isolates as well as directing those isolates to activate specific subsystems of plant growth, development or physiology. Phospholipids create membranes in channel so that larger molecules can quickly enter a cell. Dutch Master Folitech Folitech Grow and Flower are two unique foliar sprays designed to enhance your plants ability to support and produce larger numbers of flowers than would normally be possible.
Folitech is a two stage product with a vegetative and a flowering formulation which are designed to be used at the appropriate stage of the plants development.
Dutch Master Penetrator How to use reservoir additives in your nutrient solution When using additives, it would be ideal to clean the reservoir every week. This is the way to keep your plants growing super strong, and to really keep things healthy and clean.
If you are going to change your reservoir about once a week, use the following method. First add the appropriate additives in the correct dosage. Add nutrients bringing the nutrient level to the desired level. ph balance the reservoir Throughout the week, when you fill up the reservoir, also add nutrients and pH the reservoir.
on’t add additives again until you clean and redo the reservoir Follow this to end when you use a flushing agent. Most people change their reservoir every 10-14 days – although this isn’t the absolute best, it is fine.
If you follow this then you will want to follow the following recipe add ½ the amount of original additives at 1 week. (explain) First add the appropriate additives in the correct dosage. Add nutrients bringing the nutrient level to the desired level. ph balance the reservoir Throughout the week, when you fill up the reservoir, also add nutrients and pH the reservoir. At the end of one week, add 1/2 the amount of original additives as you originally added. Follow this to end when you use a flushing agent.
Ionic Ionic is a nice, one part nutrient that has a separate formula for vegetative growth and one for bloom growth. We recommend this nutrient because it is so simple to use. Ionic is great used with any of the additives listed above. For best results we highly recommend using at least Liquid Karma. If you are growing any kind of plant that requires budding, fruit or flowering, you should use the superphosphate Ionic Boost in the end of your cycle, about two weeks before harvest. For best results, keep the pH of your nutrient solution between 5.8 – 6.2 Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Botanicare Pure Blend Pro is an organic nutrient with 10-15% pure mineral content. It contains absorbable forms of iron, calcium and phosphorous. The phosphorous comes from pure rock phosphate.
PureBlend is a one-part nutrient with a vegetative and a bloom formula.The line includes a calcium magnesium micronutrient Boost called Cal-Mag Plus which is to be used at the end of the vegetative period and throughout bloom. It helps to prevent micronutrient deficiencies and lockout. Liquid Karma was made to be used with this line, as well as Silica Blast and HydroGuard, a bacterial innoculant and fungicide. We also recommend using one of the enzymatic formulas listed above. For those who are concerned about large flowers and fruits, we recommend using Pure Blend Pro Bloom for soil. It is a superphosphate and will work well with hydro plants needing that extra boost to finish. or alternatively use big bud, monster bloom etc. Also use banana manaa for resin sugar building. Clearex is a great flushing agent and is made to work with the Botanicare Line. PLEASE NOTE: Many hydro growers have begun noticing a problem with the feeding chart/directions on the PureBlend Pro bottles. If you follow their directions you will find that the strenght of your solution is way too high. It is best to monitor the PPM in your solution. Find out what your plant needs & keep your solution at that level, or maybe just a little higher. ... If you don't have a way of monitoring your solution, we HIGHLY reccomend getting a meter --- but if you want to try without it, just use a little less than the directions call for (this is generally good advice anyway) For r best results, keep the pH of your nutrient solution between 5.8 – 6.2
Advanced Nutrients Advanced Nutrients Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom Advanced Nutrients are some of the best nutrients on the hydroponic market as well as some of the most complicated –there are many additives and it can be slightly overwhelming to manage at first. Generally they suggest you use only RO water and keep a ph of 5.6 until about 4 weeks before harvesting. (look this up)
What makes the nutes themselves special is that the micro nutrients are individually chelated with their appropriate micronutrients (as opposed to CANNA which does batch chelation) Nutrients come from premium mineral sources and they are added in a+b format. Always add (before you add nutrients)
SensiZym: enzymatic formula - breaks down decomposing plant proteins B-52 ascophylum nodosum b-1 vitamin mix Piranha benefical fungus Tarantula benefical bacteria (25 more)
Voodoo juice primary benefical bacteria (5 strains) Silica Fulvic acid Final Phasea flushing agent for use at the end of the cycle - removes built up salts, etc.
ud Blood to speed up transition from veg to bloom Big Bud to provide large fruit set (3-4 weeks) – extreme high in potassium Overdrive – has high amount of potassium & phosphorous which promotes more sugar, resin, taste and aroma. Helps to finish the fruit. Can still use Banana Manna - resin and flavor enhancer. Great for any kind of product in which flavor/ fruit is desireable.
Canna Aqua Vega & Flores Canna Aqua Vega & Flores is a premium two-part nutrients from Holland. CANNA has a unique line of nutrients – all the micronutrients are batch chelated using a blend of humic fulvic and amino acids, this provides a greater micronutrient absorption. They are also extremely ph balanced. Their line inc. the following additives which we would recommendd. 9we have seen this line excel with ultra healthy plants yielding large and super tasty fruits.
CANNA PK 13-14 – add only in weeks 3 & 4 of bloom.
Rhizotonic - best for beginning stages of growth
Cannazyme - to be used throughout the life cycle of the plants We also recommend using a superphosphate for finishing such as Big Bud, Overdrive, monster bloom, etc.(last 3 weeks) Banana Manna& flushing agent. & Liquid KarmaA
excellent write up to do with cooling you DWC Buckets, could be useful to loads of beginners and others
How to keep your reservoir cool Maintaining a highly aerated root zone at optimum temperature is key to achieving high yields and problem-free grows.
This FAQ focuses on indoor hydroponic reservoir cooling options.
Why do I need cool root temperatures? High root zone temperatures often plague indoor growers running water culture (aero/bubbler/dwc/hydro) systems. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting, which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases dissolved oxygen (DO) levels. Rapid plant growth, combined with low DO levels, can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium. The key to maximum growth is to keep the air temperature at 75-80F, but the root zone at 68F or less. Note: the reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone - irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots. Optimum root growth occurs at 70-75F; however, destructive root diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures. Maintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 68F maximizes root growth and DO, and inhibits pythium. Reservoir cooling options: Warm summer temps often require aggressive cooling measures. Bubblers and dwc are difficult systems to temperature regulate due to their (usually) small volumes and lack of external reservoir. Note: spray / drip / mist / circulate nutrients on a frequent basis to equalize reservoir and root zone temperatures. Intermittent spraying may require a slightly lower tank temp, to compensate for system heating occurring during "off" spray cycle. (ie. Keep tank temp around 64F for intermittent spray cycles, 68F for continuous spraying). Note: submersible pumps add heat. Use an external/inline pump to minimize heat transfer. High quality digital thermometers are recommended. Add cold water when topping up. Note: abrupt changes in temperature may shock roots. Frozen pop bottles/milk jugs. Fill to ¾. Keep extras in the freezer to replace thawed bottles with new frozen ones, replace as necessary. Note: "Freezy packs" tend to crack and leak. Increase size of reservoir Larger volumes are slower to warm up, pH/ppm is more stable and tank changes are less frequent. Put reservoir/bubbling buckets onto floor, or set on concrete blocks to conduct heat away from the water. Insulate Paint all exposed system surfaces white or use reflective material (such as mylar or reflectix). Wrap insulation around tank. Use a camping cooler for a reservoir (pre-insulated and comes with a drain!). Swamp cooler Blow a fan directly across the surface of reservoir for excellent evaporative cooling. This method works well (expect a 10F drop in res. temp), but humidity and tds will increase, and more frequent topping up will be required. 430 scrog "?add a computer fan to a duct blowing into your tank (cut air exit holes). You can run it on a timer (1 hr on, 1 hr off). I run a float valve to keep it topped up." Make sure lid and reservoir can be easily removed. Blow air through the root zone Divert small amounts of cool intake air directly into the root zone. Remote reservoir In-room reservoirs will quickly heat up to room temp. Put the reservoir (and ballasts) outside of the grow room to minimize tank heating. Airstone / Power head / Venturi air supply should be drawn from a cool source (ie. Cool outside air). Peltier coil (Thermoelectric chillers). (Bayou grower) "I use an Ice Probe ($125) and it works well. It uses 50 watts and pulls the temp down 4 degrees under ambient. Cools 10 gal or less." (see coolworksinc.com for more models) Reservoir chillers These are electric A/C units made specifically for cooling water. (Search for "Aquarium chillers") (smokin fl) "?a heavy box with fan and compressor coils, with a 5 foot refrigeration line with a titanium coil at the end. All you do is plug it in, set the controller and put the coil in the res. Circulate nutes for the best cooling. Get a bigger model than you need." Cooling coil A coil of stainless steel is put into the reservoir, cold tap water is trickled through the coil and the overflow runs down the drain. A circulation pump in thte rez makes the cooling more efficient. Adjust tap flow as necessary (Water use can reasonable). No power, unlimited cooling, quiet. Making your own cooling coil: Scrap yards and appliance repair shops are full of A/C and fridge coils: 4-20 loops (more surface area is better), with male garden hose connectors welded to each end (Don't use copper or nickel coils). Available in Hydro stores (around $100 cdn). Note: Cooling coils may not be useful for those on metered water. DIY heat exchangers: try hot tub suppliers, home brew stores.
This is a post from a thread that i think will be good for this thread, the person who wrote this is mr. green thumb 01
I asked him if i could use his post as his thread is not a sticky and i dint want this information getting lost so i put it here
22/12/11 WIIMB!Tip for keeping air stones clean
For a DWC user air or dissolved oxygen (DO) is the most vital necessity. Usually after about the 6th week of flowering air stones become clogged and are not as effective. For people that use a single outlet pump with a multi diaphram air divider the air always wants to go where there is less resistance. This will leave your clean air stones working even better and the clogged ones even worse. Eventually if you dont clean them they will become completely clogged. Some of us like to just spend the money and replace them every so often. But I like to recycle whenever possible. I have usually just soaked them in peroxide overnight and it did the trick, usually. A few of my micro pore air stones though would just refuse to un-clog. For some reason I got the idea to boil them for 5 minutes and after that I let them cool down to the touch (still warm) and blew through them and they were completely cleaned out. I mean like brand new. So from no on I will just boil my air stones to clean them its faster, more effective and cheaper than peroxide.
Hope you like my thread guys, any questions as away!!!
