Electrical Wiring Tips and Photos

w33dh33d

Active Member
Hiya everyone,

I thought I'd share some of my information on electrical wiring. Cause the safer everyone is, the better.

First off, I am going to preface by saying that if you're at all uncomfortable with electricity, don't do it. Plain and simple. But, chances are, you're a reader who does...

For my demonstration, I will be wiring 3 light sockets together, and connecting all three to a plug.

-Grounding is a must. This protects you, your home, and your plants:hump:.
-Use only proper AWG wire. Don't be an ass and use lamp cord you found under some magazines
-Make sure that fixtures are mounted in a way that provides clearance from both eachother, and any surrounding area. It is not advisable to mount a fixture directly to the roof, top of your cabinet, or something else. Make sure adequate clearance allows for air movement.
- Use commercial grade plugs.
- Do not chain too many devices off of the same plug.
- Electrical tape is a no-no for house voltage (120V). Use proper merrets (twisty deals to bring 2 wires together).
- When you use merrets, make sure that the wires you are splicing together are of an approved material. Sometimes you can find aluminum wiring, and you need special merrets to join to other aluminum wire or copper wire.

-Keep polarity in mind.
- When you attach a wire to a commercial-grade plug, be mindful of polarity. Best to test.

Here's how to test for which plug-hole is the HOT wire. Get a multimeter and run both leads to the vertical slots in the plug. You will see voltage. Now, put one of the leads in the ground hole (the roundish one), and take turns touching the other multimeter lead to the vertical slot. You should see voltage flowing to ground on only one of the vertical slots. If both are running to ground DANGER! Get someone qualified to inspect and fix. If only one vertical slot runs power to the ground, congratulations, you've found the HOT wire.

Make sure that when a plug is plugged into this 3-prong socket, that the wire follows through to the HOT connection point on whatever you are connecting. Typically, black is reserved for this.

More about Polarity. AC power always has 1 lead that is considered the "HOT" wire, or the wire with "potential". Typically, this is the black wire. In an electrical light bulb socket, the HOT lead should always be where the tip of the bulb touches the electrical contact. Caution! Screwing this up (no pun intended) can be dangerous. If the screw part of the socket is HOT, you can shock yourself by touching it, as it is more exposed than the other contact surface. Also, unconfirmed, but the CFL and floro type lights may not function if the polarity they are expecting is reversed. They may even blow up!

-Make sure you leave enough wire hanging out of the electric box to connect the fixture.
- Make sure that only 1/4 inch (1.5cm) of cable sheathing is left exposed inside the box.
- Use the electric box clamps to clamp down on the electric cable. Not too tight or you will pierce the copper and short out the circuit.

-there are some metal prongs on the side of the electric box to help position the vertical clearance from your mount point. See how my electric boxes rest on top of it? This provides room above for air space and below for the fixture.



Photos attached.
 

Attachments

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
Why use metal boxes that are conductors of both heat and electricity when plastic one's are available that are deeper( more cubic inches of space) and less expensive and non-conductors. Are you planning to run a seperate wire to ground them. The pictures only show black and white wires, where is the green grounding wire. You could go to Menards and buy a three light fixture that is already wired for less than you could possibly make this set up. The six light fixture is under $20.00,. VV
 

w33dh33d

Active Member
Hi Victor, thanks for your comments.

I used the metal boxes because they are what's available in my area, and they are capable of being grounded.

While it is true that they conduct heat, they are at the top of my grow box in which the air is baffled to move past them on the the way out the top vent.

Housing wire sold to code in my area does not have a sheathed ground wire, instead, opting for a bare copper wire running between the white and the black wire. If you look at the 3rd picture carefully, you can see where I have attached the bare copper ground wire to the box itself.

Total cost of the setup:
3x Metal box @ $1.85 ea
3x Light fixture @ $1.30 ea
2 metres of copper wire: $4.00

While it seems that I paid slightly more than a pre-made light fixture, I like the flexibility of piecing it together myself. Also, my box is 2ft x 2ft, and most fixtures I saw in the stores are 3ft long.


Please send pics of your lighting, would love to compare and contrast.

Thanks!
 
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