Flo Grow
Well-Known Member
Wondering why this thread was closed ?
Sub, you're my dude and all and I know you said you're a 3rd Generation HVAC so why would you post a pic with a 180 degree bend (mixed elbow with flexible AND rigid duct) then say there is NO air restriction ?
View attachment 1540770
I'm not here to start any BS, so let's get that out the way.
The concern here is HVAC facts and proper ventilation in our grow rooms.
EVERY bend/elbow, be it 30, 45, 60, or 90 degree causes an increase in air flow restriction with every increase in degree.
The effect is basically potentiated as a grower keeps adding elbows.
And the type of ducting used can add to that as well, ESPECIALLY flexible ducting, even if it is running in a straight line it can cause an 50% restriction alone.
Unsupported flexible ducting again, adds to the problem, and you have plenty of that in your pics.
Reducer aid in restrictions too.
Anyone can go to dozens of HVAC websites, and they preach over and over about elbows restricting air flow and that flexible ducting is the least efficient.
When a home/resident is built, they are allowed only so much feet of duct work per law and regs for the point of safety (25ft total is usual standard).
For every elbow attached to said duct work, the HVAC tech HAS to reduce the actual ducting to accomodate those laws and regs so they don't go over the mandatory maximum length.
NEVER restrict the duct size. The single blower unit (B100) requires 6" round duct or equivalent (28 square inches), and the dual blower unit (B200) requires 8" round duct or equivalent (50 square inches). When combining multiple duct runs together, the square inch area must reflect the total square inch area of the ducts being combined. The proper method of combining two ducts is shown below.
Do not use flexible or corrugated duct. This type of duct will restrict air flow and reduce performance. Only use smooth galvanized metal duct.
Make the duct run as short and as straight as possible with as few turns as possible. Avoid sharp angled turns. Instead, use smooth gradual turns such as adjustable elbows or 45 degree angled turns. Air must not be restricted at the end of duct run. Do not use screen wire or spring loaded doors on wall louvers or roof jacks. Do not terminate vent into an attic or chimney. The hood must be ducted to the outdoors.
The pic showing " improper combining of two ducts" is what you have, and you also have more connections (on both side) than what they display :
View attachment 1540842
Not saying your rooms aren't working, because we all know they are.
But they're not connected and therefore working as efficient as a 3rd Gen HVAC should have them.
Just very surprised and had to ask.
I expect some hardcore "followers" to possibly get flamed by this simple discussion.
And that's all this should be.
Has NOTHING to do with buying your gear either, because I own plenty and will continue to be a TGA supporter.
But we are all here to learn, even if that means questioning the teacher.
View attachment 1540848
View attachment 1540849
View attachment 1540850
Sub, you're my dude and all and I know you said you're a 3rd Generation HVAC so why would you post a pic with a 180 degree bend (mixed elbow with flexible AND rigid duct) then say there is NO air restriction ?
View attachment 1540770
I'm not here to start any BS, so let's get that out the way.
The concern here is HVAC facts and proper ventilation in our grow rooms.
EVERY bend/elbow, be it 30, 45, 60, or 90 degree causes an increase in air flow restriction with every increase in degree.
The effect is basically potentiated as a grower keeps adding elbows.
And the type of ducting used can add to that as well, ESPECIALLY flexible ducting, even if it is running in a straight line it can cause an 50% restriction alone.
Unsupported flexible ducting again, adds to the problem, and you have plenty of that in your pics.
Reducer aid in restrictions too.
Anyone can go to dozens of HVAC websites, and they preach over and over about elbows restricting air flow and that flexible ducting is the least efficient.
When a home/resident is built, they are allowed only so much feet of duct work per law and regs for the point of safety (25ft total is usual standard).
For every elbow attached to said duct work, the HVAC tech HAS to reduce the actual ducting to accomodate those laws and regs so they don't go over the mandatory maximum length.
NEVER restrict the duct size. The single blower unit (B100) requires 6" round duct or equivalent (28 square inches), and the dual blower unit (B200) requires 8" round duct or equivalent (50 square inches). When combining multiple duct runs together, the square inch area must reflect the total square inch area of the ducts being combined. The proper method of combining two ducts is shown below.
Do not use flexible or corrugated duct. This type of duct will restrict air flow and reduce performance. Only use smooth galvanized metal duct.
Make the duct run as short and as straight as possible with as few turns as possible. Avoid sharp angled turns. Instead, use smooth gradual turns such as adjustable elbows or 45 degree angled turns. Air must not be restricted at the end of duct run. Do not use screen wire or spring loaded doors on wall louvers or roof jacks. Do not terminate vent into an attic or chimney. The hood must be ducted to the outdoors.
The pic showing " improper combining of two ducts" is what you have, and you also have more connections (on both side) than what they display :
View attachment 1540842
Not saying your rooms aren't working, because we all know they are.
But they're not connected and therefore working as efficient as a 3rd Gen HVAC should have them.
Just very surprised and had to ask.
I expect some hardcore "followers" to possibly get flamed by this simple discussion.
And that's all this should be.
Has NOTHING to do with buying your gear either, because I own plenty and will continue to be a TGA supporter.
But we are all here to learn, even if that means questioning the teacher.
View attachment 1540848
View attachment 1540849
View attachment 1540850