Almost 4 weeks and lower fans on some plants started yellowing and i do not know why? Simple pot soil, organic 5ml nutes, 150 hps, 4 cfl 6500 bulbs. I feed once week and water when dry with distilled water.. i ph to around 6 half everytime. My cfl stay on 24/7 and hps is 16/8. Run a can-lite virgin carbon and evac fan in grow tent. Also just inserted 3 clones i picked up few days ago.. what could be causing this?
Help a newb out
- Thread starter Tyler1122
- Start date
-
- Tags
- yellow leaves
TrimothyLeary
Well-Known Member
What's the NPK on the organic nutes?
It looks like a nitrogen deficiency. Could be overwatering, but I've had plants yellow a bit at the bottom with my organic nutes (full Roots Organic line) and a quick foliar of veg nutrients greened them back up.
So maybe try a foliar feed on one and watch for change.
By the way, I just realized this the other day after several good grows. I was following the Roots 5ml Master schedule and had been alternating watering and feeding, when the 5ml schedule actually calls for feeding every time after the plant is established. The normal schedule feeds 15ml every other feeding. I was under feeding the whole time!
That's likely what was causing my nitrogen issues.
It looks like a nitrogen deficiency. Could be overwatering, but I've had plants yellow a bit at the bottom with my organic nutes (full Roots Organic line) and a quick foliar of veg nutrients greened them back up.
So maybe try a foliar feed on one and watch for change.
By the way, I just realized this the other day after several good grows. I was following the Roots 5ml Master schedule and had been alternating watering and feeding, when the 5ml schedule actually calls for feeding every time after the plant is established. The normal schedule feeds 15ml every other feeding. I was under feeding the whole time!
That's likely what was causing my nitrogen issues.
Last edited:
breakdancer0003
Well-Known Member
since you are using distilled water you might need to add Cal mag back in, how ever it looks like a nitrogen deficiency as well, do you know the PH of your soil currently ?
TrimothyLeary
Well-Known Member
I water with tap water with no issues whatsoever. We have chlorine and chloramines, at about 200ppm, 7.5pH, typically. I cycle my nute solution 24 hours before feeding, which probably handles the chlorine. The chloramines seem to have no negative effect on my plants.
I seriously recommend a foliar of grow nutes.
I doubt Cal or Mag are an issue at this point, but once you get to flower you may have issues without a supplement if you keep using distilled. The demand isn't high for those right now, and the supply in the soil should be sufficient. It also looks like neither. It looks exactly like an N deficiency.
Nitrogen foliar feed...at least to factor deficiency out. If you're growing organic with good nutes and soil, pH almost certainly isn't the issue.
It could also be overwatering, which is looking like a good runner up for your problem. Which is why I recommend a foliar feeding. Let that soil dry out a bit.
I seriously recommend a foliar of grow nutes.
I doubt Cal or Mag are an issue at this point, but once you get to flower you may have issues without a supplement if you keep using distilled. The demand isn't high for those right now, and the supply in the soil should be sufficient. It also looks like neither. It looks exactly like an N deficiency.
Nitrogen foliar feed...at least to factor deficiency out. If you're growing organic with good nutes and soil, pH almost certainly isn't the issue.
It could also be overwatering, which is looking like a good runner up for your problem. Which is why I recommend a foliar feeding. Let that soil dry out a bit.
Last edited:
breakdancer0003
Well-Known Member
It is possible he is doing that with a well balanced soil, how ever he said
The word simple and no description of the nutes beyond 5ml feeding lead me to think he might have some nute lockout due to PH issues how ever I agree with you that it looks exactly like a N deficiency and foliar feeding does seem like a good solution. The PH of the soil is easy to pinpoint and usually my first step when diagnosing a deficiencies for people since its easy to rule out.
With how they are drooping and the propensity for people to over water I would say you are spot on with that, Side note when you foliar feed do you use the raw nitrogen and mix your own solutions or what do you use ? I have no experience with foliar feeding but it seems like a nice trick to have in the bag
TrimothyLeary
Well-Known Member
Side note when you foliar feed do you use the raw nitrogen and mix your own solutions or what do you use ? I have no experience with foliar feeding but it seems like a nice trick to have in the bag
At this point, with the reply from OP about watering again, yeah, overwatering may be the root cause (ha!) Foliar!
No, I'm not that good yet. I'm using the Roots lineup and they've got two products that are good as foliar. Extreme Serene and Ancient Amber. But pretty much any grow formula will do, as long as it's diluted properly. Most bottles give foliar instructions.
Foliar can be an awesome way to diagnose deficiencies, and even just spur better growth in general. The BRIX crowd swears by it, but that's part of the method. For me it's just a tool in the bag.
TrimothyLeary
Well-Known Member
Consensus seemed to be overwatering.
My solution would be the foliar and let them dry out a bit. If you have the extreme serene and ancient amber, use them. (One of them, not both at same time.)
If you look at Roots Master pack plan, there's a foliar schedule and a top dress schedule. Have you been following those, or just the solubles for fertigating like in your image?
I'm no fanboy but the Roots stuff has been working for me, even at half strength. But I also used the foliar and dry top dressing.
If all of them went downhill, and you're getting droopy leaves, and youre using the nutes right, I'm sticking with overwater conditions.
My solution would be the foliar and let them dry out a bit. If you have the extreme serene and ancient amber, use them. (One of them, not both at same time.)
If you look at Roots Master pack plan, there's a foliar schedule and a top dress schedule. Have you been following those, or just the solubles for fertigating like in your image?
I'm no fanboy but the Roots stuff has been working for me, even at half strength. But I also used the foliar and dry top dressing.
If all of them went downhill, and you're getting droopy leaves, and youre using the nutes right, I'm sticking with overwater conditions.
TrimothyLeary
Well-Known Member
Sorry, guess extreme is for p k. Use the ancient amber as directed on the bottle.
Foliar will surprise you. You don't need a lot, it goes straight into the leaves. Will green them right up, I bet you.
And this is a guess, but based in sound science, but don't use the amino aide as a foliar. Beneficial bacteria break amino acids down into nitrogen, almost 100%. So the N isn't available at the leaf. I'm not sure if amino can enter stoma (plant physioligy is next year...) but its not got foliar instructions so I'd avoid doing that, regardless of the NPK it says.
Edit: Yeah, bottle says 100% water insoluble nitrogen. Def. not a foliar.
Foliar will surprise you. You don't need a lot, it goes straight into the leaves. Will green them right up, I bet you.
And this is a guess, but based in sound science, but don't use the amino aide as a foliar. Beneficial bacteria break amino acids down into nitrogen, almost 100%. So the N isn't available at the leaf. I'm not sure if amino can enter stoma (plant physioligy is next year...) but its not got foliar instructions so I'd avoid doing that, regardless of the NPK it says.
Edit: Yeah, bottle says 100% water insoluble nitrogen. Def. not a foliar.
Last edited:
Similar threads
