Help!!...Nute burn, heat burn or deficiency?

Benjwg

Member
Not sure wat the problem is..
leaves curling, going brown/yellow.. very crispy tips..
New growth seems fine as u can see in pic.

Under 500w CFLs.. 75F temp. Soil pH is 6.

Its 2 week old Auto Pounder

All other plants fine.. even have my seedlings in this box

Thanks
 

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Cpappa27

Well-Known Member
That's pretty bad nute burn, did you pour it right out the bottle. By the looks of the soil the drainage is poor.
 

Benjwg

Member
That's pretty bad nute burn, did you pour it right out the bottle. By the looks of the soil the drainage is poor.
Thx lol.

I'm growing in compost, drainage works well. Needs watering every 2 days... I started feeding 4 days ago with biobizz grow.. went to water again yesterday and saw this but not so bad.. I used half a tea spoon with 1 gallon of water.

Guess I should just flush?

Tbh I didn't even know nute burn turns the leaves crispy, only the visual colour change so thanks.. never had this problem before. Will stop feeding the others for anotha week or so just in case.

Think it will be fine?

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tikitoker

Active Member
It depends on what is the compost sourced from. Some containing manures have high salt and are used as amendments not soil. That's really bad burn. Transplant into a proper soil substrate or the plant will NOT make it. Not to mention compost turns muddy when used alone and the roots are not able to breath. Air cannot be pulled in when watered.
 

Ilovebush

Well-Known Member
Nute burn as mentioned...don't feed every time you water. Make sure you have a day per week of just pH'ed water to dissolve built up salts. Nute burn is the most common mistake..dial back on the feed as well.
 

Benjwg

Member
It depends on what is the compost sourced from. Some containing manures have high salt and are used as amendments not soil. That's really bad burn. Transplant into a proper soil substrate or the plant will NOT make it. Not to mention compost turns muddy when used alone and the roots are not able to breath. Air cannot be pulled in when watered.
Growing autos in their first and final pot so no rootball. Would be one awful transplant.

Only really have the choice of flushing.

The compost, for its price was quite good. Very loose, no clumps.. looks very similar to soil. Grown a few with it so far and no problems. Seems to get clumpy on the top when drying but other than tht seems good.Just this feed I think, must have been to soon for this plant, surprising as its the biggest in its batch.

The new growth looks healthy, chance it will pull through?
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tikitoker

Active Member
Well then... if you insist on flushing I would let the soil dry out some more. Get it 75% dry, then with a mister lightly moisten the surface soil to help eliminate immediate dry pockets to help ensure even penetration. Dryer soil will release more of its contents than hydrated soil. Flush with ph stabilized 6.5 plain water. Definitely chlorinated or purified. 3x, s the pots volume i n water. After that leave her alone until she needs water and only water.
 

AllenHaze

Well-Known Member
trees.jpg
Red square- Indicative of Nute Burn and/or pH fluctuation
Blue Circles- Tells me that the nutes were too concentrated, poured directly onto the plants leaves.
Purple circle- Looks like an onset of a phosphorus deficiency or the like.
Overall, I'd suggest a full transplant into something a little more stable. Forget the flush, you'll end up stressing them and if the soil is in fact no good you'll have to transplant anyways and that could further stress your plants - ergo more males or hermies. Let's say you go out and buy bag of FFOF or even MG ORG right now, you will be saving yourself a lot of potential problems in the coming weeks. More important than soil nutrients is the soil's ability to drain properly, you can always add nutrients but it is nearly impossible to correct the drainage in a pot without changing pots - and adding stress.

Are you sure of the temperature and pH? Had to ask :peace:
 

AllenHaze

Well-Known Member
Well then... if you insist on flushing I would let the soil dry out some more. Get it 75% dry, then with a mister lightly moisten the surface soil to help eliminate immediate dry pockets to help ensure even penetration. Dryer soil will release more of its contents than hydrated soil. Flush with ph stabilized 6.5 plain water. Definitely chlorinated or purified. 3x, s the pots volume i n water. After that leave her alone until she needs water and only water.
If the OP didn't have any other choice but to flush I would agree here. Let them dry out as Poster Tiki said; about 75%. It'll be hard to gauge it at 75% but wait until your plants start to get a little droopy, this will tell you without a doubt that the soil moisture has dropped as low as it can before affecting your plants health adversely. Then give them the equivalent of a good down pour, a lot of grow guides will recommend 2-3 times the volume of your soil. Try not to use chlorinated water as this may wipe out your bene population unless of course you have a tea brewing to inoculate /w. If you feel like there is nothing else you can do you can try this method below that I have had to do in the past as a last resort:
1. Prepare a separate pot with a proper grow medium and a hole 1.5-2X the width of your plants fan leaves, if you have really wide fan leaves you can adjust as you go.
2. Prepare a pot of room temperature, properly pH'd water. For the sake of this method, you would probably be okay without pH'ing your water it doesn't hurt to be safe though. If you have some super thrive, big bloom or something similar, toss some in there, if not no biggie.
3. Break free the soil from the pot by using a butter knife and cutting along the edge line between the soil and pot walls or very gently work the pot's walls back and forth to loosen up the soil then simply ease your girl out or scoop out the surrounding soil. If she does have a root ball and some of that messy compost then dip her in the water you have prepared and quickly - but gently - rinse away the remaining compost. Don't try to get it all because you will probably find it too difficult depending on how developed your plants roots are and just cause more stress.
4. Take the plant and place it into the prepared pot then fill the soil around the roots. Water as normal and give her a few days before anticipating new growth.
If your stuck with the compost you'll have to find something to cut it with. If you have access to a yard then try baking some yard soil for an hour or two and cutting with that. Good luck. :peace: Check back here when you figure it out, I know I'd like to hear the about her progress. :bigjoint:
 

Benjwg

Member
Well its certainly changing for the better.

Had to go with the option of flushing.

Seems to have almost mutated a little bit but is really taking off in size... literally double my others from the same batch

Nute burnt bits have been crumbling off and the leaves have started to re-shaped looking like thats how they were.

You can tell its been through a bit of drying/flushing and has had a bit of stress, however back to growing and no holding it back. (Poor burnt tips :( )

LST begins tomorrow, allowing the plant to moisten up a bit more first.

2xPics of slightly improved plant attached
1x pic of plant from same batch, sprouted at same time with same feeding I started with but the others have not suffered nute burn.

(I am growing about 6 in the same batch?, 2 in one box with other seedlings)
2014-01-07 19.05.55.jpg2014-01-07 19.06.01.jpg2014-01-07 19.06.06.jpg2014-01-07 19.06.14.jpg

This box is being used for a compact grow, similar to a sog but with LST, 2-3 gallon pots. 500 Watts of light.

Ignore the 2 in 1 pot... not sure how that happened.

Only planted one in there I am sure but 2 sprouted? that ever been heard of lol?

Maybe I dropped an extra by accident - who knows.
 
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