HELP w/ Lighting and Electricial Questions Please

Hello and thanks for reading!

I have two 1000w switchable ballasts that I am running on 12/12 cycle. Which means that I have 2000w on for 12 hours and then those turn off and 2000w comes on in an adjacent 6x10 room.

My question is will I be able to power both ballasts off of one 4-pronged dryer outlet that I have a Y-split extension cord for? OR could I just run them off of different wall outlets.
Thanks!!
-BB

If you're running the lamps on 120v, then you have to connect to two separate wall outlets (each 1kW ballast uses 8A, and more at startup).

The dryer split idea will work too, but how you connect the ballasts will all depend on whether you're running 240v or 120v, and you must be very careful either way.

You have to use properly gauged cabling for connecting to a dryer socket; 10ga, as it is 30A, and if done incorrectly, your patch job will become the fuse and a major fire hazard.

-spek

Alright awesome thank you, it is 10 gauge wiring. I have both 120 and 240 cords and I was leaning toward using the 240v cords because I believe it uses around 4.7 amps. I think that would be safer in the long run, any thoughts?

Here is a pic of the cord that I am considering for the dryer socket...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IUHA28/ref=s9_simh_gw_p200_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1B6RM3VVT142WB0PYVZH&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1630083502&pf_rd_i=507846

I believe you can get a timed transfer switch, so it will swap the power to each room 12/12

Indoor Sun King said:

I believe you can get a timed transfer switch, so it will swap the power to each room 12/12

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The ballasts that I am using already have that feature, it was my main reason for the purchase.

if the wire is bueno for the stuff you connect to it, and the breaker is burno for both at same time, i believe your safe. could do the same thing by putting in a double 20, and running some 12/3 to a dual outlette... atleast then you know your wires and everything are brand new and installed correctly. cost me like 50 bucks.. home depot , military discount. bueno!

You will be just fine. You have way more than enough power. FYI, that outlet is delivering 240 regardless of what type of plug you plug into it. 240 outlets and plugs are designed differently so you can't plug a 120 device into them.

You also don't need to have 10 gauge wiring to your plug. 14 gauge wire is fine as two ballasts are only going to draw 10 amps at 220.

Thanks guys for the help, now I can quit stressin' and start veggin' haha

legallyflying said:

You will be just fine. You have way more than enough power. FYI, that outlet is delivering 240 regardless of what type of plug you plug into it. 240 outlets and plugs are designed differently so you can't plug a 120 device into them.

You also don't need to have 10 gauge wiring to your plug. 14 gauge wire is fine as two ballasts are only going to draw 10 amps at 220.

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this is why I do not like to see electrical advice handed out on these forums. As a licensed electrician I understand the true reason why a given gauge of wire should be used to feed a given device. It has to do with the overcurrent protection device or breaker not the load. If short circuit condition occurs inside the line or the load the breaker needs to trip before the wire melts possibly causing a fire. 10 gauge wire is good for 30 amp circuit thus will be protected by a 30 amp breaker. 30 amps through a 14 gauge wire will cause problems. in an ideal situation your configuration would not draw too many amps however if something did occur the overcurrent protection device will not trip and a safe level for that wire gauge.

To use 14 gauge wire, swsp the double pole 30 amp breaker for a double pole 15. technically also you should label the 10 gauge wiring as only accepting 15 amps but I doubt you'll ever have an inspector look at it.

SnapsProvolone said:

To use 14 gauge wire, swsp the double pole 30 amp breaker for a double pole 15. technically also you should label the 10 gauge wiring as only accepting 15 amps but I doubt you'll ever have an inspector look at it.

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Perhaps not, but as I'm sure you'd agree, that's pretty idiotic. If anyone went to re-use the dryer again, they'll be scratching their heads as to wtf!? For me personally, I would then be questioning all of the electrical in the building, which would consume a lot of time and energy trying to figure out why anyone would put 15A breakers at the end of a 10 ga circuit.

As I said in an above post, running 14ga wire into a 30A circuit, the 14 ga wire becomes a fuse, and if something ever happens, you will burn your house down. If you're running a 30A circuit, you MUST use 10ga cable. If you want to use a smaller gauge wire, run a brand new circuit from the panel itself.

-spek

at least someone confused about a 15 amp breaker on 10 gauge wire is a safe scenario as opposed to the alternative. it sounds like arguing for the point of arguing there. The point is lighting loads are not meant to be on a 30 amp circuit. To use these types of loads you need to break that down with a sub panel and smaller breakers. No more than 20 amp circuit breaker is allowed to protect lighting loads due to the ratings of such devices. Only a very few exceptions exist in commercial environments with three phase and 30 amp special HID rated breakers feeding contactor banks of 208 or 277v or 480v lighting.

don't make me get the code book out. LoL

the intent of asking for electrical advice in the first place is so that someone can remain safe so it is important the only good advice is given out. Not ghetto engineering.