High Brix Marijuana

Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Cheesy Bo' Greesy said:
Lmao! ... welcome to the thread Roy. We're Im from we give as good as we get.

Basically what youre saying is if your soil is well balanced with the proper organic amendments/nutrients etc. theres no need to add humic/fulvic acids to the soil.
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More or less! A lot of cannabis/growstore organic growing products use genuine science but in a misleading way to sell products. Humic/Fulvic acids are a great example of this. There are studies that show that plants in soils rich in humic/fulvic acids have better nutrient uptake, companies use these studies to promote their products. Not mentioning that the studies don't involve adding the acids, but by studying fields where the organic matter that creates those humic and fulvic acids naturally was used.

Google Scholar is a great resource for university studies! you're not gonna find anything directly talking cannabis but any of the studies involving high demand annual crops (especially tomatoes and peppers) are gonna give you some cool insight and information that you can apply to your own garden.
 
K

keepsake

Well-Known Member
Holy shit this thread is gold.
I'm going to start making my own LAB and AEM today.
Then I am currently learning how to make FPJ. Then FFJ.
I've been putting off making a worm bin but I have a 15gal fabric pot to use.
How do i start a worm bin in a 15gal fabric pot?
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
keepsake said:
Holy shit this thread is gold.
I'm going to start making my own LAB and AEM today.
Then I am currently learning how to make FPJ. Then FFJ.
I've been putting off making a worm bin but I have a 15gal fabric pot to use.
How do i start a worm bin in a 15gal fabric pot?
Click to expand...
Coco coir makes a nice start , one of the best bedding for worms
 
Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Rasta Roy said:
More or less! A lot of cannabis/growstore organic growing products use genuine science but in a misleading way to sell products. Humic/Fulvic acids are a great example of this. There are studies that show that plants in soils rich in humic/fulvic acids have better nutrient uptake, companies use these studies to promote their products. Not mentioning that the studies don't involve adding the acids, but by studying fields where the organic matter that creates those humic and fulvic acids naturally was used.

Google Scholar is a great resource for university studies! you're not gonna find anything directly talking cannabis but any of the studies involving high demand annual crops (especially tomatoes and peppers) are gonna give you some cool insight and information that you can apply to your own garden.
Click to expand...
That would make sense Roy. The question I have is when is a good time to use fulvic and humic acids? Im checking out google scholar tonight. Appreciate the input.

keepsake said:
Holy shit this thread is gold.
I'm going to start making my own LAB and AEM today.
Then I am currently learning how to make FPJ. Then FFJ.
I've been putting off making a worm bin but I have a 15gal fabric pot to use.
How do i start a worm bin in a 15gal fabric pot?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the thread Keepsake! Absolutely, get busy. Whatever you discover/learn come on back and take the time to share it with us. Good luck!

Fastslappy said:
Coco coir makes a nice start , one of the best bedding for worms
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Is there any coir considered better than others for earth worms slappy? I know some coir is much better than others for growing. Im just curious whats best for worms.
 
Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
As said before weve learned not all rock dusts are created equal concerning high brix growing or growing in general. Weve also learned special clays offer minerals to the plant immediately ... similar to basalt rock dust.

Found a link that some of you might be interested in. (Im NOT affiliated with this company in any way, shape, or form. Wanted to share it with you just in case you dont have access to these things locally)

So if you can obtain it cheaper? By all means share it with us! Heres the link.

http://rockdustlocal.com/index.html


Also Google Scholar ... Research it for yourself.

https://scholar.google.com


Next on High Brix Marijuana ...

Bio Char: How Can It Assist Your High Brix Grow.
 
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Rasta Roy

Rasta Roy

Well-Known Member
Cheesy Bo' Greesy said:
That would make sense Roy. The question I have is when is a good time to use fulvic and humic acids? Im checking out google scholar tonight. Appreciate the input.
Click to expand...
The only time I would feel the need to add extra fulvic/humic acids, would be if the soil had high mineral content that was not being depleted by the plant. It's something to worry about if you were growing in a regions natural soil (in the ground). But putting together a potting soil and being able to access quality rock dust and other organic amendments are going to give you minerals in pretty uptakeable forms already, plus the amendments will create the acids as well. Mineral absorption should rarely be an issue that needs to be addressed with fulvic/humic acids in a potting soil. If there is an issue it is more likely a pH issue.
 
Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Rasta Roy said:
The only time I would feel the need to add extra fulvic/humic acids, would be if the soil had high mineral content that was not being depleted by the plant. It's something to worry about if you were growing in a regions natural soil (in the ground). But putting together a potting soil and being able to access quality rock dust and other organic amendments are going to give you minerals in pretty uptakeable forms already, plus the amendments will create the acids as well. Mineral absorption should rarely be an issue that needs to be addressed with fulvic/humic acids in a potting soil. If there is an issue it is more likely a pH issue.
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Well said Roy. Im hoping this thread accomplishes multiple things.

1. That more growers will jump on board the organic/high brix train in hopes of creating better, healthier marijuana in the marketplace. Patients deserve the best product to treat their conditions. Nothing less (and so do recreational smokers for that matter)

2. To obviously learn more myself and to assist others who are interested in learning more as well.

Many of us in these communities struggled in the beginning. I want this thread to be the opposite of that. I'd like to see new and old growers alike be capable of coming here and receiving accurate up to date information from the get go... So your input is much appreciated.


Concerning BioChar ...



Biochar Is a Valuable Soil Amendment
This 2,000 year-old practice converts agricultural waste into a soil enhancer that can hold carbon, boost food security, and increase soil biodiversity, and discourage deforestation. The process creates a fine-grained, highly porous charcoal that helps soils retain nutrients and water.

Biochar is found in soils around the world as a result of vegetation fires and historic soil management practices. Intensive study of biochar-rich dark earths in the Amazon (terra preta), has led to a wider appreciation of biochar’s unique properties as a soil enhancer.

Biochar can be an important tool to increase food security and cropland diversity in areas with severely depleted soils, scarce organic resources, and inadequate water and chemical fertilizer supplies.

Biochar also improves water quality and quantity by increasing soil retention of nutrients and agrochemicals for plant and crop utilization. More nutrients stay in the soil instead of leaching into groundwater and causing pollution. learn far more here:

http://www.biochar-international.org/biochar

Described In the article below the effects of specific types of biochar which increased considerably phenol and flavanoid content ,as well as antioxidant activity, of the fruit being grown. In this case tomatoes.

http://www.publish.csiro.au/cp/CP14247

Anyone have any positive or negative input on their experiences with biochar?
 
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Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Biochar is great ONLY IF U Precharge it 1st
Chicken shit , piss , any really high nitrogen input
Humanics work well as a charge , I know one guy who charges with fulpower & fish bone meal let's it sit for weeks 1st
 
Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
Bio char Not charged is really bad in a soil as it is a sponge that will suck all the nitrogen outta the soil mix
, that in its self will cause real issues
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I was wondering about that slappy. Appreciate the invaluable input.

Because its similar to charcoal it will absorb nutrients in the soil. So basically biochar may not be something you want to just toss into your soil mix without precharging it first or buying it precharged.

Build A Soil offers precharged biochar.

https://buildasoil.com/products/bio-char


And this explains the process pretty well ...

Biochar is sterile when it is made and it tends to take up nutrients into its microscopic pores. Therefore, it can bind up soil nutrients when first added to the soil. It is best to “pre-charge” the biochar by mixing it with composts, organic fertilizer, worm castings, humates, mychorrizae, soil microbes and/or compost teas. Let the mix sit a week or two to “pre-charge” before adding it to your beds. Or incorporate all your ingredients, including biochar into your planting beds, irrigate and wait a week or two before planting.
 
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psychedelicdaddi

psychedelicdaddi

Well-Known Member
Cheesy Bo' Greesy said:
Well said Roy. Im hoping this thread accomplishes multiple things.

1. That more growers will jump on board the organic/high brix train in hopes of creating better, healthier marijuana in the marketplace. Patients deserve the best product to treat their conditions. Nothing less (and so do recreational smokers for that matter)

2. To obviously learn more myself and to assist others who are interested in learning more as well.

Many of us in these communities struggled in the beginning. I want this thread to be the opposite of that. I'd like to see new and old growers alike be capable of coming here and receiving accurate up to date information from the get go... So your input is much appreciated.


Concerning BioChar ...



Biochar Is a Valuable Soil Amendment
This 2,000 year-old practice converts agricultural waste into a soil enhancer that can hold carbon, boost food security, and increase soil biodiversity, and discourage deforestation. The process creates a fine-grained, highly porous charcoal that helps soils retain nutrients and water.

Biochar is found in soils around the world as a result of vegetation fires and historic soil management practices. Intensive study of biochar-rich dark earths in the Amazon (terra preta), has led to a wider appreciation of biochar’s unique properties as a soil enhancer.

Biochar can be an important tool to increase food security and cropland diversity in areas with severely depleted soils, scarce organic resources, and inadequate water and chemical fertilizer supplies.

Biochar also improves water quality and quantity by increasing soil retention of nutrients and agrochemicals for plant and crop utilization. More nutrients stay in the soil instead of leaching into groundwater and causing pollution. learn far more here:

http://www.biochar-international.org/biochar

Described In the article below the effects of specific types of biochar which increased considerably phenol and flavanoid content ,as well as antioxidant activity, of the fruit being grown. In this case tomatoes.

http://www.publish.csiro.au/cp/CP14247

Anyone have any positive or negative input on their experiences with biochar?
Click to expand...
i like it. I use it as aeration so i dont charge it. I think its pointless since it doesnt go anywhere and gets reused when i reammend. So i mix my soil a little hotter with manure compost and bokashi. It works like a charm with no deficiencies. That and a light tea every month. I use about a gallon biochar in every 7 gallons soil. Then a gallon-2gal or so of perlite.

I am also going for a high brix plant, im using fermented banana peal, probiotics/BT, molasses, azomite, mycelium rich water, fish aminos, and aloe pulp. I just ordered a refractometer to start checking up on how im doing.
 
Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Cheesy Bo' Greesy

Well-Known Member
psychedelicdaddi said:
i like it. I use it as aeration so i dont charge it. I think its pointless since it doesnt go anywhere and gets reused when i reammend. So i mix my soil a little hotter with manure compost and bokashi. It works like a charm with no deficiencies. That and a light tea every month. I use about a gallon biochar in every 7 gallons soil. Then a gallon-2gal or so of perlite.

I am also going for a high brix plant, im using fermented banana peal, probiotics/BT, molasses, azomite, mycelium rich water, fish aminos, and aloe pulp. I just ordered a refractometer to start checking up on how im doing.
Click to expand...
Hey theres more than one way to skin a cat PD. Appreciate the input. It makes alot of sense. Im all about KISS methods as long as they show nice results. It sounds like youve developed a good grow hack with this method. Thumbs up! and please keep the input coming. We welcome it.

Informative High Brix article here. Starts out a little slow but stick with it you wont regret it!

https://www.google.com/amp/s/artisticgardener.wordpress.com/2014/07/25/my-high-brixnutrient-dense-growing-style/amp/

Peace!
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
.there is No difference between charcoal & bio-char
most bio-char these days comes from red cedar that has been killed by beetles in the western states
it's a soft wood charcoal not as dense as hardwood charcoal it crushes into powder easily ,where hardwood will not crush as easy
Bio-Char means that they gonna charge you more it ,
I use CowBoy Natural Charcoal @ Whole Foods all hardwood charcoal chunks
i take a sack place on side walk then cover with a old bathroom carpet over bag hit with maul ,hammer , instant bio-char for less than $5 a bag
$80.00 builda soil charged me with shipping for a like sized bag , again it's all charcoal .
Now Do Not Use the Kingsford Briquits those are made outta COAL & salt peter will kill plants
 
Jaybodankly

Jaybodankly

Well-Known Member
Trader Joe's has good charcoal too. I poke a hole in the bag, put a hose in there to wet it down and cut down on the dust. If I am ahead of the curve. I add it to the worm bin to charge it up. I think of biochar as like a coral reef. Gives a permanent home to good microbes to set up shop.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Jaybodankly said:
Trader Joe's has good charcoal too. I poke a hole in the bag, put a hose in there to wet it down and cut down on the dust. If I am ahead of the curve. I add it to the worm bin to charge it up. I think of biochar as like a coral reef. Gives a permanent home to good microbes to set up shop.
Click to expand...
Thats what I do as well ,u can line the bottom space with chunks to give drainage to the bin ,they r charge with the liquid .
 
swedsteven

swedsteven

Well-Known Member
Ok guys got numbers tomorow 3 week flowering

Lower leaf and top leaf dont give me the same reading

Organic mix brix reading 14
20171020_150819_001.jpg
Ph of my soil runnoff 6.8

Suprise botanicare 10
20171020_153102.jpg
Medium ph runnof 5.8 to fix it i top dress 1/2 cup of dolomite(chaux) for each pot .
3/4cup each cuft was not enough next grow ill use 1 cup per cuft.
 
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