Hydro For Newbies.

videoman40

Well-Known Member
While I am no expert grower, and I know even less about hydro, it does however interest me, as I am sure it does others as well. I want to state up front, my knowledge level on hydro is somewhere along the lines of my knowledge on the spotted owl, I dont know crap about it!

I'd like to try it though, and based on what I've read here, others do too, but probaly like me, they feel it is out of there comfort level. I have come up with a system I found online that brings my comfort level back into check. Please before you do, or invest anything look into it further and ask around! there are plenty of knowledgeable hydro growers here. A little common sense goes a long way when growing.

Allright, moving on, as I have asked around and have read and read. Everyone has a system that works, but I want an easy one and here is what I found, please feel free to comment on this! (I have highlighted what I consider important for you, the reader) There are no pumps involved here, only air pumps and air stones. It is also very inexpensive to setup.

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All of the necessary equipment can be bought at WallyWorld, Lowes, Hardware stores, pet stores and nurseries

Equipment needed:

Dual outlet aquarium pump $25.00
¼” vinyl or rubber airlines $00.25-40 @ ft.
¼” vinyl fittings, Tees, couplers
4” airstone $01.50
4” net pots $01.00
Medium, Hydrotron Expanded Clay Pellets
1 ½ rockwool cubes $ 08.00 for 24
notebook
pH meter
PPM meter
Rubbermaid Containers/buckets, $03.00-10.00
pH Up $08.00
pH Down $08.00

Nutrients and additives various costs,
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Pumps:

A simple aquarium pump is all that is required. They are cheap and readily available. Department stores, pet shops, hardware stores. Try and get the type with dual/two outlets. This way you can aerate more buckets. Even more by adding Tee fittings.
I recently priced a larger pump at the hydro shop, much higher output capacity, 6 outlets, $400.00. Not necessary.

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Next you need airlines, Tee fittings, couplers and airstones.

Airstones come in various sizes from 4-12”. I will use a 4’ in my 2 ½ gallon buckets and a 12” in the bigger rubbermaids. The airlines come in clear vinyl and colored rubber. I prefer the rubber lines. The vinyl can be stiff at times. The couplers allow you to put one or more airlines together for length and easy removal for nute changes. The Tees allow you to make two supplies out of one airline, again allowing you to feed two buckets. Airstones are cheap and clog frequently, keep a few spares on hand and check daily. Replace as needed. I will use new stones at the beginning of every grow.

Rubber airline, Tee fittings, back flow check valve and couplers:
Don’t forget to put an inline back flow check valve to keep water out of your pump.
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Pumps:

Place them above floor level, back flow check valves inline. Also place them on a few layers of towels to lessen vibration and noise.
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Containers:

Once again, plastic buckets, Rubbermaid storage containers, varying sizes, applicable to your needs, situation etc. But they must have lids and be dark in color, to prevent light hitting the nutrient rich solution and algae growth. The lids will require 2 holes cut in them, more depending on the number of net pots it will hold. One hole for the airline and one hole to support the net pot. I will heat a screwdriver on the stove element and press it through the vinyl lids to accommodate the ¼” airline. I will trace the bottom of the net pot to the lid, add ¼-3/8” more to the tracing and then use utility knife to cut them out. Save and use the cutout for a template next time
The bigger the container, the bigger the aeration requirements.

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2 ½ gallon buckets is what I prefer. Notice the airline running through the lid, the airstone goes in the bucket. Also notice the coupling on the line in end. This allows for easy detachment from the air supply line for service, nute change, easy removal, etc. 5 gallon buckets are fine, but remember, especially if you have height issuses. 2 ½ gallon buckets are about 12” shorter, so you have 12” height more to grow than with 5ers.

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This is my clone bubbler. I have cut 1 ¼” square holes (12) to accommodate my clones, once they have rooted in the cubes. I cover the un-needed holes with duct tape to keep light out again. I cut my clones 3-4 weeks into flower. Keep them under 2 X 4’, 34 watt flouros (one warm white, one cool white tube) I find I can keep them 8-10 weeks this way and then they are ready, it’s into the big buckets and they are off to the races

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This is the net pot. The rooted clones are placed in them, supported with medium and the roots allowed to grow down into the aerated nutrient solution.
Now net pots may be the most difficult thing to buy, so improvise, use tapered plastic cups, the bottom of plastic pop bottles, drill them full of holes and voila, homemade net pots.
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member

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Medium:

Rockwool is fine for lots of hydro, but not the best for DWC. I try and remove as much as possible from my rooted clones before I put them in the net pots. Perilite, and Hydrotron expanded clay pellets are a couple of mediums to use. I prefer Hydrotron myself. It’s reuseable and easy to handle. Just rinse it with clear water for a while before reusing to remove accumulated salts.
Those are 1 ½” rockwool cubes on the top.

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This is what it looks like from the “inside” out of the bucket. The roots become very massive in healthy plants. I have never had a problem with too many roots and too small a bucket with my 2 1/2ers.

Nute/water levels should be:

If the roots are not showing through the net pot ½” above the bottom of the net pot

If the roots are showing, keep it ½- 1” below the bottom of the net pot.

Top up as necessary and try and maintain those levels. Remember, top up nutes with pH adjusted water ONLY. DO NOT TOP UP WITH MORE NUTES.
Nutes are absorbed at different levels and growth stages of the plant. If you keep topping up with nutes, some nutes will be absorbed already and some not and you are just upsetting the balance, leading to potential problems.

It is only necessary to change your nutrient out for two reasons. One, because you are raising the nute levels and PPM s to correspond with your schedule and growth rates. Two, you have topped up the nute solution with equal amounts of water, to amount of nute solution you originally put in. So if you had 2 gallons of nute solution to start with and over whatever time period you replace it accumulatively with two gallons of water, it’s time for new nutes. The nute manufacturers and Hydro shop owners would love you to think “ I have to change these out every week to ten days,,,,,,,,” whatever length of time you heard. Not necessary, just more sales for them as you use it up unnecessarily

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Accessories:

Doing a nute change? Easy, just keep a second bucket handy, lift the lid, plant, airline/stone and place over the empty bucket. Drain your original bucket, replace with your nutes, replace plant, lid and all in the first bucket, repeat as needed. No pumps needed.

Have a couple of extra large buckets/containers for letting your water sit in. Always let your water sit 24 hours before using, to allow the chlorine to dissipate. Chlorine is a killer especially in DWC. You can even have it pH adjusted, ready for use as nute top up or nute change outs.

A diary/log book. This is so important, especially when learning. Every day, note your pH, adjust if necessary, note it. Check the PPM daily note it and then note the amount of water you top up the nutes with in each plant. This will help later when you have replaced/topped up your nutes with equal amounts of water, then it’s time to change nutes. Note your nute ratios. Especially for 4 months down the road and you go “now how much did I use when,,,,,,,,,,,,?” A great reference tool

PH meter. This is probably the single most important tool you can have. Yes pool/aquarium test kits will be close, but close isn’t good enough. Always be exact and check your meter regularly for accuracy with a test pH solution. Never allow your probe tip to dry out. Store it in the solution and cover provided.

PPM meter. This is not as necessary. I used it daily the first two grows. Now I hardly use it. I refer to my notes, use the nute ratios that worked before. I already know the PPMs from the notes. Once and a while I will test the nutes to verify, but not often now.
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Measuring cups, eye dropper, measuring spoons and small ml measuring cup.
Be accurate, when it says 15ml make it 15ml, not 16 or 14ml. One gallon is one gallon, not it’s almost or close enough. Especially with multi part nute systems. They must be in balanced proportions as stated or your nute solution will be unbalanced and lead to nute lock up and a host of other problems.
The eye dropper is especially handy for adding pH Up and down. You can add it a bit at a time. Again try and keep track in your notes how much you use, when and with how much water. Soon you will remember and pretty well know
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Nutes:

Most nutes are multi part, mix in different ratios corresponding to the growth cycle of the plant. Some are 2 part some are three. I use General Hydroponics 3 part. It has pH buffers and is generally more forgiving than some more advanced nute systems. 1 litre bottles are around $20.00 and 4 litres is around $35.00
GH nutes are 3 parts, micro, veg and bloom. Be careful though any GH nute ratios are always listed Veg-Micro-Grow. So a ratio of 12ml-25ml-37ml is 12ml of veg, 25ml of micro and 35ml of bloom.
NOTE: when mixing GH nutes, never mix the nutes together and then add to water. Always add your Micro first, mix thoroughly. Add your veg, mix thoroughly. Last add your Bloom and mix thoroughly. Adjust for pH and use.
Again lot’s of people shy away from Hydro and buying hydro weed. We have all have that hydro/chemical tasting weed and some people believe all hydro weed tastes like that. Not true, with the proper flushing at the end to remove salts build up and allow the plant to use its accumulated nutrient reserves, there is no “hydro taste”. I won’t get into the debate what tastes better, hydro/soil/chem ferts/organic. With proper flushing I have also found the clearing agents (Final Flush etc) just an added expense and unnecessary.

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Additives:

Ph Up and Down will be needed. I use baking soda for pH up. Vinegar and lemon juice among other things can be used for lowering pH, but it’s not as effective and lasting as pH Down itself.
Epsom salts. GH nutes are supposed to be lacking sufficient magnesium to facilitate peak nutrient uptake, so I will add to my nutrient solution every time while making it, ¼ tsp. Per gallon of water.
Bloom Boosters, Flowering Enhancers/ additives are many used also. Just be careful to read the manufactures specs and recommended pH levels for the particular product. They vary greatly.
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Here’s my basic nute schedule, ratios, Ph levels and regimine.
This can be adjusted and tweaked to your needs and wants.
People may disagree with the low pH range, but it works best for me under my situation. Find out what’s best for yours.

All proportions are per 5 gallons and listed veg/micro/bloom:

rooted clones:pH 5.2-5.5

25ml/25ml/25ml
1 tsp epsom salts.

veg-pH 5.2-5.5

37ml/25ml/12ml
1 tsp epsom salts
10 ml Thrive alive B1

Transition to 12/12

48 hours straight water pH 5.2-5.5

then:pH 5.2-5.5

12ml/25ml/37/ml
1 tsp epsom salts

7 days later:H 6.0-6.5

0ml/40ml/80ml
30 ml Awesome Blossom
1 tsp of epsom salts.

Last 14 days straight water ph 5.2-5.5

I top my nute levels up as necessary with pHed water and only change the nutes out when I have replaced the original amount with the same amount of water.
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Soap Box Time.

As I constantly stress, the single biggest factor in consistanly large yeilds of high quality bud is not the $300.00 genetics, not the fancy most expensive system and ferts you have. It is the growers experience and their ability to read their plants. Know what they are telling you and respond accordingly. A healthy plant looks healthy. A sick plant looks sick. A healthy plant doesn't need MORE,,,,,, A sick plant you have to recognize and try and diagnose as to what you have done and then not repeat it. Learn from your mistakes and then don't repeat them. As your experience/knowledge grows, your mistakes will diminish and your success' will increase. Keep learning and trying different ideas and concepts. See what works for you for your conditions and limitations.

Best of luck all, I hope I enlightened, educated and set aside some of the myths and supposed complexities of hydroponics’ growing. I hope some of yours end up like this too,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

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videoman40

Well-Known Member
Please feel free to comment, I'd love to hear from hydro growers on this as it may be the route I choose.
Nobody has any comments??
 

nongreenthumb

Well-Known Member
Equipment needed:

Dual outlet aquarium pump $25.00
¼” vinyl or rubber airlines $00.25-40 @ ft.
¼” vinyl fittings, Tees, couplers
4” airstone $01.50
4” net pots $01.00
Medium, Hydrotron Expanded Clay Pellets
1 ½ rockwool cubes $ 08.00 for 24
notebook
pH meter
PPM meter
Rubbermaid Containers/buckets, $03.00-10.00
pH Up $08.00
pH Down $08.00

Nutrients and additives various costs,
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Large size plastic containers, im using a 120 litre ones to flower 8 plants in (having between 2-4 gal per plant for root space)

Air pump

Bubbler line with a t joint for each airstone

hydroton

rockwool root cubes

ph meter

ec meter

ph up down

liquid silicon

liquid oxygen

6" net pots

grow bloom boost

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-85300140756196_1934_16594038
air stones

I like these airstones because 1 they are cheap and 2 you can get a single piece of hose and then just add a t joint for every air stone

Those containers seemed small to go bubble.


You also could consider a water pump to feed the nutes up while the roots are not showing from the net pots. Either that or dont use the lid and dunk them in the nutes.

But as my sig says I am running a aero vs bubble experiment to see the difference if any.
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Sounds great!

You should check out GH's Waterfarm, which consists of hydro buckets attached in series. Very similar setup, so you might pick up some pointers. The hydrobucket is an active system, with air-pump driven drip ring around the plant, constantly dripping into the rocks.

GH sells individual hydro buckets, with everything you need included, for 50 bux.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

roor23

Active Member
hey i enjoyed reading this. What kind of water should be used on a hydroponics system. TAp water? distilled water? spring water?
also is a nute mix with a ph level of 6.2-6.5 going to work? thanskj
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I looked at the waterfarm, I do like it. Kinda expensive though. $300.00 for a 8 plant kit. Building the above mentioned system would cost me about $50.00, and please correct me if I am wrong but...I assume it would give simular results.
 

MrBaker

Well-Known Member
This is a cool how-to. I grow in the dirt now because I like to, but eventually I'm gonna build a set-up like yours because paying for soil stinks (the stuff around my house isn't so great unless I go buy a bunch of organic stuff to mix in).
 

Jordy Villain

Well-Known Member
yeah man this looks real sweet and you broke it down so it's way less intimidating. i gotta wait till i get my own place though. my parents would fucking hang me hahaha.
 

lando421

Well-Known Member
I'm going to use a lot of this info in properly setting up a sa-weet little space in a few months...ohhhh the preparation!

clap clap clap videoman! excellent werk
 

mr_issues

Well-Known Member
ok can I ask a dumb question??? I been searching the internet for stores in my area that would carry a pH meter, but havn't found anything... Where could I buy one locally? TY
 

FilthyFletch

Mr I Can Do That For Half
Hey video just for my own notes.In that system what did you keep the ph and ppm at for the grow? Did you need any kind of res heater.My res water seems to stay at 55-60 F
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
ok can I ask a dumb question??? I been searching the internet for stores in my area that would carry a pH meter, but havn't found anything... Where could I buy one locally? TY
Of course, the best place is an indoor growing shop, we call them hydro shops, but if there are none of those locally, and you don't want to buy online, then you could look for a scientific supply store. If they don't have it, they will order it. Also some fish stores may have meters.


HTH :mrgreen:
 

stonecold

Well-Known Member
Hiya Video, Thanks for this post, i am going to be building a system and your thread has helped my out big time, i am a new grower, i am still learning and by reading posts like your it will help me from making the basic mistakes and it gives me a guide to use, i am printing your thread out so i can keep it as my goto book as needed, i want to build a 16 plant set up, and im gonna be useing 4 tupperware tubs, i am going to take my time and do it right, and when all is said n done, im hopeing to have a sweet sog going,

again, Thanks for all the helpfull info.
 

nongreenthumb

Well-Known Member
Hiya Video, Thanks for this post, i am going to be building a system and your thread has helped my out big time, i am a new grower, i am still learning and by reading posts like your it will help me from making the basic mistakes and it gives me a guide to use, i am printing your thread out so i can keep it as my goto book as needed, i want to build a 16 plant set up, and im gonna be useing 4 tupperware tubs, i am going to take my time and do it right, and when all is said n done, im hopeing to have a sweet sog going,

again, Thanks for all the helpfull info.
Please keep in mind that videoman is no longer a member, he never showed this actually working. He was a soil grower, he got a stealth hydro kit.
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
He did post some useful information. Don't you hate it when people argue with you even when they know you're right. VV
 

alfdaddy

Active Member
so where do you root your clones? in the rock wool? are they placed directly into the rock wool then into the net pots in the buckets? and u cut after flowing cycle begun? i thought ithat was bad...i DONT know just what i read on here. and do u know the sex after the 3 week of flowering? thanks man an awesome post
 
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