Inline fan setup comparisons

JSB99

Well-Known Member
In a flow as follows:
4x8 tent > Filter > inline fan > 2 linked 600w hoods > exhaust > muffler

What would be the best setup?

  1. 6" filter > 6" inline fan (435CFM) > 8" to 6" reducer > 6" hoods > 6" exhaust > 6" muffler
  2. 8" filter > 8" inline fan (720CFM) > 8" to 6" reducer > 6" hoods > 6" exhaust > 6" muffler
  3. 8" filter > 8" inline fan (720CFM) > 8" hoods > 8" exhaust > 8" muffler
The reason I ask is because I read a post that said 8" hoods are not as efficient as 6" hoods
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
correction on #1
  1. 6" filter > 6" inline fan (435CFM) > 6" hoods > 6" exhaust > 6" muffler
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
How much less than ambient temp do you want?

Are you exhausting out of your room?

- Jiji
Yes, I will be exhausting directly out of the room with insulated ducting outside the tent.

My 4x8x8 tent will be in a room that has central air. But, that room gets hot in the summer due to it facing East and having a large window.

However, I will be running a portable AC in there as well just so I can keep an even temperature. I found on my last grow with a portable AC that if you just wrap the exhaust duct with insulation using zip ties to hold it on, or just buy an insulation sleeve at Home Depot, you don't feel any heat at all from the exhaust. I see so many comments about the exhaust creating more heat than the cooling. But if you just insulate the exhaust then the problem is solved.

So, the way I'm going to set it up is by having a "Y" at the top of my ceiling that both the AC exhaust and tent exhaust hook into. I will have two vents ports available for the "Y". One for summer where the hot air just exhausts outside and a winter that will connect to a register in another room to help warm my home. Whichever one isn't use will be capped and the winter ducting in the attic leading to the other room will be insulated to retain the heat. I'll also have a dehumidifier in the tent.

Not worried about the electrical cost. It'll be a small setup with a 6 bucket UC DWC. I'm also going to have a 2x4 tent with a 4ft 4 lamp t5 hood for some mums to get my cuttings from.

So if I control the ambient temperature in the room then the 6" fan should have enough draw for the tent, a 24" filter and 2 hoods? The intake will be the micro mesh intakes at the bottom of the tent. If I get too much negative pressure I can always add a 6" intake filter on one of the duct sleeves.

Whatcha think?
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a 6 inch centrifugal fan around 400+ cfm of your choice will work good with 6 inch hoods.

Pumping air back into your home in winter can cause a lot of humidity, but I *think* your grow is small enough that you'll be fine.

- Jiji
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a 6 inch centrifugal fan around 400+ cfm of your choice will work good with 6 inch hoods.

Pumping air back into your home in winter can cause a lot of humidity, but I *think* your grow is small enough that you'll be fine.

- Jiji
Thanks Jiji. Living in Oregon there's a fair amount of humidity anyways. It's a fairly short summer anyways. In the winter I can cover the vent so no heat enters the room. Should stay fairly cool. I keep my house around 64 in the winter and temps in rooms where the vents are close can be as low as the 50s. Probably wouldn't even need it then.

The problem with portable ACs are that the thermostat is inside the unit. However, I've found an LG 8,000 btu portable that will resume the previous settings in the case of a power outage. That means I should be able to use a thermostat in the tent to power the AC on and off. I'm a techy and an engineer so I love building and tinkering with stuff. I'm determined to make the system as stable and hands-off as possible so I can just do plant maintenance like pruning, topping, etc...All my builds before required me to fight heat, leaks, humidity, etc...and I hate having to work on things I've already built and finished. I know it's a small build but it's just for me and I'm a disabled vet with fibromyalgia so my energy is really limited.

Sorry to blab :-) Just thinking aloud. Thanks for the help Jiji

-JB
 

peteski72

Active Member
Thanks Jiji. Living in Oregon there's a fair amount of humidity anyways. It's a fairly short summer anyways. In the winter I can cover the vent so no heat enters the room. Should stay fairly cool. I keep my house around 64 in the winter and temps in rooms where the vents are close can be as low as the 50s. Probably wouldn't even need it then.

The problem with portable ACs are that the thermostat is inside the unit. However, I've found an LG 8,000 btu portable that will resume the previous settings in the case of a power outage. That means I should be able to use a thermostat in the tent to power the AC on and off. I'm a techy and an engineer so I love building and tinkering with stuff. I'm determined to make the system as stable and hands-off as possible so I can just do plant maintenance like pruning, topping, etc...All my builds before required me to fight heat, leaks, humidity, etc...and I hate having to work on things I've already built and finished. I know it's a small build but it's just for me and I'm a disabled vet with fibromyalgia so my energy is really limited.

Sorry to blab :-) Just thinking aloud. Thanks for the help Jiji

-JB
 

peteski72

Active Member
Since you described my challenges I have to say; fighting the heat and humidity problems was almost hopeless. I have been learning to grow for two years now. Been trying to pull this off on a shoestring budget. It hasn't been until this attempt I finally got my cool tube and now have risen the humidity from 16% to 55%. I had a exhaust fan sucking out the hot air. This remedied the heat problem but at the same time it was taking out the co2 and humidity. The cool tube ended that problem within an hour. I have stabilized the temperature to recommended levels. I live in a similar climate, cold winters. So a small space heater works well for lights out. I have a 2x5 area with four healthy and full plants. I'm running out of room. Should I be concerned. I am looking to find some info on pruning. Whether its necessary or if it will do more harm then good. There are huge different schools of thought here. I have some of the conditions you mentioned and on disability. My goal is to grow my own, because it's so expensive to purchase. I am at a real impasse, I need to get a constant flow going and have some successful harvest. I can't keep taking these hits by the cost of growing and not having a worthwhile yield in the end.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Since you described my challenges I have to say; fighting the heat and humidity problems was almost hopeless. I have been learning to grow for two years now. Been trying to pull this off on a shoestring budget. It hasn't been until this attempt I finally got my cool tube and now have risen the humidity from 16% to 55%. I had a exhaust fan sucking out the hot air. This remedied the heat problem but at the same time it was taking out the co2 and humidity. The cool tube ended that problem within an hour. I have stabilized the temperature to recommended levels. I live in a similar climate, cold winters. So a small space heater works well for lights out. I have a 2x5 area with four healthy and full plants. I'm running out of room. Should I be concerned. I am looking to find some info on pruning. Whether its necessary or if it will do more harm then good. There are huge different schools of thought here. I have some of the conditions you mentioned and on disability. My goal is to grow my own, because it's so expensive to purchase. I am at a real impasse, I need to get a constant flow going and have some successful harvest. I can't keep taking these hits by the cost of growing and not having a worthwhile yield in the end.
Alright, we have a few things to look at here.

First, you only want humidity during the vegetation stage and not during flowering. Keep your humidity around 50% during your veg and I think around 25% during flower (anyone can chime in here). Too much humidity during flowering will cause mold and bud rot. If you're having a problem keeping it humid during veg, go to your local GoodWill and get a cheap humidifier for a few bucks. I always liked using the ultrasonic humidifiers because they run cool and I could usually drop my temps 5 or 10 degrees.

If you have heat issues and you live in a cold state, try reversing your grow schedule so that your lights are on mostly during the cooler parts of each day (meaning overnight) and off during the warmer parts during the day. This will not only prevent you from wasting electricity with a heater, but you can exhaust the warm air into your house making it warmer.

If you're on a shoestring budget, I wouldn't worry about co2. There's plenty in the air and co2 is too much of a challenge and too expensive to do it properly when there are other things to worry about. You really need to have two inline fans (and not the inline duct fans from home depot) to do this correctly. You need to have one primarily for your hood that totally isolates the heat caused by the lamp from your grow area and draws the air in from a separate intake outside the grow, and then you need to have another that runs on a 15 minute timer to exhaust and refresh the air in your grow space. If you can draw the air in from underneath your house then that will help keep your hood cooler and ultimately your grow space cooler.

Definitely prune, but do it correctly. You can read all about pruning in these forums. Pruning will do many positive things like get light to lower leaves, allow better air flow, avoid mold and fungus issues from leaves sitting on top of one another, and get your plants to put more energy into the more important upper parts of your plants where your light will have the most impact. You'll do more pruning at the bottom and ultimately get your plants to look like an upside down Christmas tree. Don't get super-stoned and prune, take your time, don't be over-zealous, and use clean pruning shears to avoid disease. You're not going to hurt your plants if you do it right.

If you're running out of vertical space, look at how to do SOG (sea of green), SCROG (screen of green), LIT (low-impact training), and topping. All of these methods will give you more in the end. You won't have one big cola at the top, instead you'll have a whole bunch of good sized buds at the same distance from the light, creating a canopy. Last thing you want is to have a cola touching your hood because it grew too tall.

Hope that helps. Everything I learned I learned on these forums. Look at what other people are doing and read about how others have solved issues of their own. You'll get some great ideas.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Also, too much humidity during flowering will invite unwanted guests like spidermites.
 
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