Is It Possible To Grow Outdoors Starting Now?

purple headband

purple headband

Member
Hi I have 2 seeds left and can no longer grow indoors :-( is it possible to start growing outdoors right now or will the seasonal light cycles and stuff not work out for them to flower?

edit: i live in southern california by the way
 
FuZZyBUDz

FuZZyBUDz

Well-Known Member
i hope so, i set 7 clones outside a week ago in a topsee turvee for red peeper plants. i will let ya know how it goes
 
purple headband

purple headband

Member
alright thanks I think I might start mine too because I'll be getting new seeds by the time next season comes around lol, and I cant stand not having any living plants!!
 
HUSTLERBOY20

HUSTLERBOY20

Well-Known Member
I have like 20 seeds and i want to make use of this rain but i think to tell you the truth the cold and the constant light being taken away as we get closer to december 21st which is the shortest day of the year it makes it hard to get much productivity out of your babies..Im sure you could start them early feb or late jan and be ok...that is unless you get a green house or shelter to protect from frost, the cold, and keep them some what warm because I know here in cali where i am gets to 40-50* some times and thats going to slow you down alot if you allow your plants to endure that
 
anomolies

anomolies

Well-Known Member
In socal too. I'm going to be trying this, except I'm vegging indoors until Nov1 and when I put them outside, they will immediately flower within a few days.

If by "grow" you mean veg, no they will not veg, they're gonna go straight to flower, so you'll have some tiny ass plants.

Long time ago in Norcal, before I knew how to grow, I flowered a plant from Nov-Dec to like Jan-Feb. It survived, but buds didn't really swell much. Then again, I never gave it nutes and it was in some MG potting soil.
 
toquer

toquer

Active Member
it's about 60 or so days away from the shortest night. if you harvest before the year is over you should be ok. about the 2nd week of the year if the plants haven't been harvested they'll begin to reveg and flower at the same time. gets some really ugly looking growth all over the plant. this will continue until you rip the plant out because it'll never finish or you manicure the living daylights out of it. come the 21st of march the plant should have finished revegging if it's going to. Now, should you have the plant growing at that point be prepared to make a monster. it won't finish until the fall harvest. we just finished harvesting one of mine that we put out early in the year. i'm also in so cal, close to the beach and near LA. weather isn't too big a problem. i cover mine during the rains at this time of year. we just started the final set for the year this week. it's a 6 1/2 week flower so it'll be done easily before christmas. it's supposed to be a cold one this year with not too much moisture so you may be in luck. a good thick layer of mulch will be necessary if your in the ground. if you're in pots then do a double potting to retain the heat in the root zone. basically pot the pot that the plant is in. that sounds funny, but trust me, get a larger bucket than what the plant will fower in. poke holes at the bottom, fill with perlite on the bottom and place your pot in there. then fill the rest of the sides with perlite as well. it'll help keep the warmth in once it starts getting really cold. if the roots get too cold then you have no growth at all. just my thoughts with a bong rip!!
 
anomolies

anomolies

Well-Known Member
toquer said:
it's about 60 or so days away from the shortest night. if you harvest before the year is over you should be ok. about the 2nd week of the year if the plants haven't been harvested they'll begin to reveg and flower at the same time. gets some really ugly looking growth all over the plant. this will continue until you rip the plant out because it'll never finish or you manicure the living daylights out of it. come the 21st of march the plant should have finished revegging if it's going to. Now, should you have the plant growing at that point be prepared to make a monster. it won't finish until the fall harvest. we just finished harvesting one of mine that we put out early in the year. i'm also in so cal, close to the beach and near LA. weather isn't too big a problem. i cover mine during the rains at this time of year. we just started the final set for the year this week. it's a 6 1/2 week flower so it'll be done easily before christmas. it's supposed to be a cold one this year with not too much moisture so you may be in luck. a good thick layer of mulch will be necessary if your in the ground. if you're in pots then do a double potting to retain the heat in the root zone. basically pot the pot that the plant is in. that sounds funny, but trust me, get a larger bucket than what the plant will fower in. poke holes at the bottom, fill with perlite on the bottom and place your pot in there. then fill the rest of the sides with perlite as well. it'll help keep the warmth in once it starts getting really cold. if the roots get too cold then you have no growth at all. just my thoughts with a bong rip!!
Click to expand...
damn, that answered the question I've been asking for such a long time. +rep.
Where were you in my other thread!@#??
 
F

Future858

Member
toquer said:
it's about 60 or so days away from the shortest night. if you harvest before the year is over you should be ok. about the 2nd week of the year if the plants haven't been harvested they'll begin to reveg and flower at the same time. gets some really ugly looking growth all over the plant. this will continue until you rip the plant out because it'll never finish or you manicure the living daylights out of it. come the 21st of march the plant should have finished revegging if it's going to. Now, should you have the plant growing at that point be prepared to make a monster. it won't finish until the fall harvest. we just finished harvesting one of mine that we put out early in the year. i'm also in so cal, close to the beach and near LA. weather isn't too big a problem. i cover mine during the rains at this time of year. we just started the final set for the year this week. it's a 6 1/2 week flower so it'll be done easily before christmas. it's supposed to be a cold one this year with not too much moisture so you may be in luck. a good thick layer of mulch will be necessary if your in the ground. if you're in pots then do a double potting to retain the heat in the root zone. basically pot the pot that the plant is in. that sounds funny, but trust me, get a larger bucket than what the plant will fower in. poke holes at the bottom, fill with perlite on the bottom and place your pot in there. then fill the rest of the sides with perlite as well. it'll help keep the warmth in once it starts getting really cold. if the roots get too cold then you have no growth at all. just my thoughts with a bong rip!!
Click to expand...

I was blazing last night, messing around with the star app on ipad , figuring out when the shortest day was..
I want to veg and then start blooming by Nov. Hopefully my yield will be nice.
 
toquer

toquer

Active Member
og popa p said:
quick question ...what if you cant cover in the rain?
Click to expand...
a couple of things you can do about that... The biggest problem you run into with rain is bud rot/mold/mildew. In addition to a totally soaked root zone. I apply Serenade and BT Catepillar Killer throughout veg and deep into flower. I do this with a foliar application of CA in Veg and P/K boost in Flower. I also use a wetting agent. What I am trying to accomplish is to build resistance to the bacteria that'll destroy a wet plant. Both Serenade and BT are genetically engineered bacteria that fight bad bacteria. In order for them to be effective, they must exist inside of the plant as well as ontop of the plant. Thus the application must be continuous to spread the bacteria throughout the new growth.

Now i'm running a test group as we speak. They are getting the same nutrients, however, their foliar application is Dutch Master Saturator & Liquid Light in addition to the 2 bacteria. Supposedly Saturator allows for direct absorption on the cellular level. If this is the case, infecting the plant with bacteria that prevent death and decay should take place at the clone level then. I'll post results if I produce a plant that's mildew resistant this season.

So back to the question at hand...step number 1 is prevention. Infect your plant with the bacteria you want prior to the rains.

Once you've got a soaking wet plant and it looks as if every stem is going to snap because of the added water weight, tie the bitch up!! you don't want cola's hanging down as then moisture gets locked into the flower and won't be able to escape. the way the plant is designed, water will flow down the stem and continue to flow down along the entire plant.

shake your colas. shake them really well too once the rains stop. just hold onto the cola and shake it like polaroid picture. you'll notice the water is residing ontop of the oily surface. if you've got catepillar damage, that's where you've got the most potential for rot to set in. those areas either remove or borrower a hair dryer and blow dry the nugs.

quick question back...why can't you cover in the rain?
 
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