Is it possible to transplant from Coco Coir into Soil?

daguatero

Member
Ive done that before, no problem
if the roots are too messy in the coco coir, you can plant the whole thing and e roots will spread without a pro.
sometimes its easy to remove the coco without breaking e roots, its up to you and to your roots handling skills.
it should be fine anyhow
 

dante.

Active Member
Ok thank you very much for your reply. One more thing though, what would be a good level to keep the pH? Would i have to water with two different ph solutions temporarily to satisfy the requirements of both the coco and soil parts (until the medium stabilizes)?

And could i still use hydroponic nutes?
 

akula

Active Member
I have transplanted both ways lots of times with no problem. I used to try and clean the roots somewhat, but dont even bother anymore. They mesh perfectly.

No PH your nutrient solution to the soil not to the coco. Feed your soil like soil. I dont know what nutes you are using, but personally I wouldn't stress mix matching my coco specific nutes into soil, but we may use different nutrients.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, I gotta know what kind of circumstance would force you to change growing mediums. Enlighten us plz :)
 

jpeg666

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, I gotta know what kind of circumstance would force you to change growing mediums. Enlighten us plz :)
I am guessing he used coco to pop the seeds like jiffy cubes or store bought "starter mix" that is just coco with other stuff. So now needs to officially plant them
 

dante.

Active Member
I am guessing he used coco to pop the seeds like jiffy cubes or store bought "starter mix" that is just coco with other stuff. So now needs to officially plant them
Somewhat... yeah. I have them in a an indoor set up (manual hydro) and they're doing alright. One's getting little brown spots on it's older leaves and some yellowing edges on it's newer ones. Looks like it could be salt build up or nute burn or magnesium/calcium issues. But i'm not sure, i'm really new to this and i just want to gdo it right. I'll post a pic later if i can
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
It is a tad late in the season unless you live in Hawaii (i heard it flowers there all year <3) However you can grow with coco outside too mate.
 

dante.

Active Member
I have transplanted both ways lots of times with no problem. I used to try and clean the roots somewhat, but dont even bother anymore. They mesh perfectly.

No PH your nutrient solution to the soil not to the coco. Feed your soil like soil. I dont know what nutes you are using, but personally I wouldn't stress mix matching my coco specific nutes into soil, but we may use different nutrients.
I'm using BC northern lights nutes.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
One's getting little brown spots on it's older leaves and some yellowing edges on it's newer ones.

Quick Deficiency Guide

NITROGEN (N) Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P) Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K) Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca) Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S) Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg) Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe) Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn) Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B) Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb) Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn) White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.


Have you tried flushing the plants out that look like that? Theres a problem for sure, it might be a buildup. Hows the PH been?
 

dante.

Active Member
In the meantime, i posted a link a couple posts up of a guy who has some leaf spotting similar to mine. Have a look.
 

Jeffdogg

Well-Known Member
similar to yours but as you said your also has chlorosis of the newer leaves. As an example:

2 plants can have yellowing leaves 1 could have a PH prob and 1 have a N deficiency.

2 plants with brown spots: 1 could be from white bugs under the leaves the other could be burn mark from foliar feeding.

See why we ask for your pics and not worrying about someone else?
 
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