Is this a deficiency of potassium

Codeman34

Active Member
So I have one plant I have been battling with this deficiency since 3 weeks into flower. I have tried hitting some calmag with it and no sign of change. It’s actually gotten worse and starting to get rusty color on tips of leaves. Below are the pictures of it. Please help me.
 

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Codeman34

Active Member
Looks like it ...


View attachment 4946324View attachment 4946325


As I found out from some "thermostat wars" here in the old homestead ... too cool temps with lights-off can also lead to P and K deficiencies.
Huh it’s not cold at night here it stays maybe like mid 70s to low of 69. I just don’t know my other plants look perfect and have no signs of deficiency so idk maybe should I mix a hot mix of bloom nutes and feed her heavy?
 

Codeman34

Active Member
If you suspect a potassium deficiency why would you give the plant calmag? Both calcium and magnesium can be antagonistic with potassium hindering it's uptake by the plant.

Most deficiencies are not caused by a lack of a specific nutrient but by the use of too much of others.
Well for one reason the stems are purple as fuck all up it and everywhere which made me suspect calmag deficiency cause I was also getting chlorosis so I thought it was that but I added it and seen no improvement that’s why I did what I did. I don’t see why getting this information is helping me instead of trying to find my flaws. But thanks for the info.
 

Codeman34

Active Member
An
If you suspect a potassium deficiency why would you give the plant calmag? Both calcium and magnesium can be antagonistic with potassium hindering it's uptake by the plant.

Most deficiencies are not caused by a lack of a specific nutrient but by the use of too much of others.
And the other reasoning of using calmag cause some dumb asses on this site told me they suspect calmag def so I guess just bad information I assume opinions are like assholes everyone gots one.
 

Codeman34

Active Member
I'm sure anyone that said calmag was just trying to help. Unfortunately calmag has somehow become some form of "Cure All" when it isn't.
Well idfk it’s bagseed so I ain’t to worried about it but the buds are nice looking already about 4 1/2 5 weeks in flowering. So I wanted to save it and fix it but idk what to do or how to?!? So if you could tell me how I could I will make love to you very passionate
 

Codeman34

Active Member
I'm sure anyone that said calmag was just trying to help. Unfortunately calmag has somehow become some form of "Cure All" when it isn't.
I also only feed little never go above like 600 ppm I feed light cause my other two cherry gar see ya are light eaters they don’t like a lot or they get burnt up. So maybe she’s hungry?
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I also only feed little never go above like 600 ppm I feed light cause my other two cherry gar see ya are light eaters they don’t like a lot or they get burnt up. So maybe she’s hungry?
If you havent fed to runoff lately could be build up.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I also only feed little never go above like 600 ppm I feed light cause my other two cherry gar see ya are light eaters they don’t like a lot or they get burnt up. So maybe she’s hungry?
Just feed it a balanced nutrient. You can bump up the EC some. I didn't know you were feeding it at 600. You may have been underfeeding rather than overfeeding which I typically assume since that's the norm. I didn't heed my own advice about not making assumptions.

600 is low when plants start flowering. That's when they start needing the most. 800-1000 ppm would be a good start with any decent nutrient. You're probably won't turn those yellowing leaves green again but you can keep them from drying up and falling off for a little longer. You don't want to blast your plants with nutrients but if you're only feeding 600 ppm then you can increase that.
 

osowhom

Well-Known Member
there is no easy solution thats why this time i started under fed and gradually gave nutes in flower to rule out over fed which was the problem with my last grow still got a few jars of good stuff though i thought gby adding this and that would help it didnt
 

Husk

Well-Known Member
If the root zone is hovering around 65-70f, go check with a cooking therm. If cold, you're mostly likely locking out mag which is a catalyst for chlorophyll production etc. In this stage flowering doesn't need much nitrogen hence the low amounts in formulas. This leads to others that trigger colour deficiencies. Potassium can be depleted within a plant in 3-5 days so if slowed growth is what your noticing, that's it! Also for me it accompanies crispy brown leaves...

Used in the biggest amounts for flower is in P for bud sites, K for maintenance/health, and cal/mag next. Now the plant will draw semi mobile nutrients from leaves to continue growing so those are the beginner suspects. Start with a clean flush, an balanced nutrients.(if not done yet) See what happens... Eliminate one by one till desired effect is achieved. Now the PPM is low for me, yes. But these are your plants, you know better than anyone just like a persons own body... Arm yourself with knowledge and learn from those experiences!

There is a reason multiple additives/amendments are on the market, yes some for bullshit, but you get to pick and choose. If you find nitrogen deficiency in some strains you can supplement with a product to increase this strains production while using a regular balanced 2 part for the rest that don't like it. It's all about experience! Get you some!
 

Codeman34

Active Member
If the root zone is hovering around 65-70f, go check with a cooking therm. If cold, you're mostly likely locking out mag which is a catalyst for chlorophyll production etc. In this stage flowering doesn't need much nitrogen hence the low amounts in formulas. This leads to others that trigger colour deficiencies. Potassium can be depleted within a plant in 3-5 days so if slowed growth is what your noticing, that's it! Also for me it accompanies crispy brown leaves...

Used in the biggest amounts for flower is in P for bud sites, K for maintenance/health, and cal/mag next. Now the plant will draw semi mobile nutrients from leaves to continue growing so those are the beginner suspects. Start with a clean flush, an balanced nutrients.(if not done yet) See what happens... Eliminate one by one till desired effect is achieved. Now the PPM is low for me, yes. But these are your plants, you know better than anyone just like a persons own body... Arm yourself with knowledge and learn from those experiences!

There is a reason multiple additives/amendments are on the market, yes some for bullshit, but you get to pick and choose. If you find nitrogen deficiency in some strains you can supplement with a product to increase this strains production while using a regular balanced 2 part for the rest that don't like it. It's all about experience! Get you some!
Yeah for sure brother thanks for the knowledge that was good! Well yeah the last run was good they didn’t yellow towards the end and now they are starting to yellow 5 weeks into flowering and I feel like they are hungry but I try to mix heavy nutes and the ppm is still
Low I’m scared to go to much and kill them.
 

Husk

Well-Known Member
Yeah for sure brother thanks for the knowledge that was good! Well yeah the last run was good they didn’t yellow towards the end and now they are starting to yellow 5 weeks into flowering and I feel like they are hungry but I try to mix heavy nutes and the ppm is still
Low I’m scared to go to much and kill them.
A key note for a mag def. Is espmon salts are great as it's high available, but flushes out very quickly too. Also means it can burn your plant fast too! Start low and go slow is my motto!

Use sea kelp if you suspect anything immediately, again only if it's a real deficiencies not another factor at play here.This is my trick! It's bio available for the most part, contains many nutes, and plants love it.

In week 3-6 of flower, depending on your plants(read them) I start adding a synthetic high P bud site bloomer like open seaseme from Fox farm. Since the plant uses high P in this phase to create bud sites, it's ideal, and the only time I use something highly synthetic in my grow. If you mess up with a light Nute burn the plants can even out as your halfway through flower now, so mistakes can be mitigated somewhat. Cheers!
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Mainly PK deficiency due to stage of flowering, but also an alround deficiency from low ppm. Possibly aggravated by too much cal-mag (as pointed out), but also ensure your pH is not too high, as this can inhibit PK uptake (conversely, raising pH can help with Cal-Mag uptake). Not enough oxygen in the root zone can also affect P uptake.

600ppm is low. Should be higher (again as pointed out). pH should be around 5.8 but you can let it naturally drift from around 5.3 to 6.5. Test runoff. If much higher than 6.5 it is telling you two things: pH may be too high to begin with and/or nutrient levels are too low as your plant is using up all available nutrient. pH rises as nutrients are used up by the plant.

It's a bit late now, but you need to feed them more with a balanced nutrient and supplement with PK booster. Don't hit them with any more cal-mag. You don't say what medium you are growing in, but I'm assuming hydro/coco?
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
So I have one plant I have been battling with this deficiency since 3 weeks into flower. I have tried hitting some calmag with it and no sign of change. It’s actually gotten worse and starting to get rusty color on tips of leaves. Below are the pictures of it. Please help me.
Looks like more than K deficiency. That purple looks more like P deficiency than K to me. That one looks like it needs food. What are you growing in and what are you feeding them? They start to demand a lot more in flower at that stage.
 

Codeman34

Active Member
Looks like more than K deficiency. That purple looks more like P deficiency than K to me. That one looks like it needs food. What are you growing in and what are you feeding them? They start to demand a lot more in flower at that stage.
Im
Growing in ocean forest soil, nutes are GH flora trio and recharge some. She looked good the whole time like really
Good and then 3-4 weeks into flowering she just started going nuts and not liking something idk ‍♂ it’s stressing me out cause I want it to finish cause it smells dank and skunky as fuck.

here is my feed chart of what I mix 4 gallons of water I did week 5 times everything by 4 gallons and mixed nutes in and ppm is still
Lower than what it recommends in week 5? I don’t get it.
 

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PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Im
Growing in ocean forest soil, nutes are GH flora trio and recharge some. She looked good the whole time like really
Good and then 3-4 weeks into flowering she just started going nuts and not liking something idk ‍♂ it’s stressing me out cause I want it to finish cause it smells dank and skunky as fuck.

here is my feed chart of what I mix 4 gallons of water I did week 5 times everything by 4 gallons and mixed nutes in and ppm is still
Lower than what it recommends in week 5? I don’t get it.
FFOF is kinda hot, so it was feeding your plants good, but they exhausted the food in the soil. You need to supplement that with other nutes.

That one plant is also bigger so it exhausted the supply faster.

Feed that one more. I'd double up on whatever you're giving now. So 100% of the recommendation vs the 50% you're doing now.

No need to stress. Chemicals work instantly so what can improve should pretty quick. Organics take awhile to be available to the plants.
 
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