leaf problems.... tea brewing wheres the magic?

hello fellow RIU growers,
i havent grown in a few years and im happy to be doing this again it brings a lot of joy to my soul .

well let me get to the point why im on here. i have a bit of a few leaf problems.

growing environment.
growlab tent.
600watt mh light 18-6 cycle
temps range 70-79

nutrients
mother plant 1/4 strength
pro-tek 1/4 tsp per gallon
hygrozym 1/2 strngth
using r o water.

the tea recipe i feed the ladies was from the rev from tlo growing.
tea recipe-
5 gallon bucket r o water
5 tsp maxicrop sea kelp
5 tbsp foxfarm all purpose
5 tbsp alfalfa meal
5 tbsp fish hydrolysate
5 tbsp molasses
5 cups of general organics ancient forest humus
10 tbsp Mexican high nitrogen guano
bubbled for 24 hours then added 2 1/2 tbsp of molasses and 5 cups of wiggle worm castings and bubbled another 24 hours , when it was finished it had foam on top.
i then diluted it with another 5 gallons of r o water


leaf problems
plant 1 ( was told it was girl scout cookies not sure) but any way...

plant 2 og kush #18
this is another og 18 plant 3
plant 4 headband
.

if i would have to guess why im getting these issues maybe im missing cal mag since im using r o, the headband might be root bound since its in a 1 gallon pot. or i need to bump up the strength on the nutz.
but im really confused because ive been reading so much about teas like they are high and mighty so shouldnt my tea fix what ever deficiency this is? especially since i added a lot of shit with high nitrogen?

well i hope all you fellow RIU growers can help a fellow grow out. thanks for checking out the post and any advice is greatly appreciated

for one, the RO water you add the second time may be shocking the microbes in the brew, it may be a good idea to pour some brew into that second clean 5 gallons then pour it back into the brew (same reason you never give plants straight RO

also, you sound spot on with the mag deficiency. The molasses should have iron and calcium if it's blackstrap, and the mag would be needed if you didn't mix anything into the soil. To fix this i think you could use epsom salts at the recommended dosage to fix the issue

Sounds to me like you have a really strong tea. 5 gallons to like twelve cups of brewing material. It doesnt say what the concentration is or how often your applying it to the soil, but the og is green as 707 and big but it looks fine. The smaller ones look like theyre feelin it more. There looks to be an issue on the leaf which can probably be picked of that chart thing. Id figure too much of somthing in there is causing it. Feeding shedule me thinks.

I have an afghan land race mother with the exact same issue. Its magnesium, not calcium, at least not yet anyways. You need to treat a magnesium deficiency with Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). Use 1 tbsp/gallon and pH @ 6.5
I would like mention that if Nitrogen is deficient, it will antagonize magnesium to become deficient, so keep an eye and make a note. Also if you are watering to often and not allowing a brief drying of the soil, this can cause improper pH and nutrients even though there are unavailable. In heavily watered soil the plants remain waterlogged and stop drinking/eating.

I would foliar the Epsom and make sure to have a very fine spray and get the underside of the leaves where the stomata are,....... rapid results and immediate intake. Spray daily until problem is fixed. Amend your soil with some dolomite lime @ 1.5 tbsp/gallon soil. I like to use powdered dolomite over granule dolomite, it works faster.

If the plant is ok to transplant, I would, this will allow more nutrients/soil to the roots and prepare you for flower. Remember...... HUGE HARVESTS COME FROM HUGE ROOTS. Huge root systems can take more fertilizer, this means you can hit them hard without burns.

mrLifted,
Just to throw in another idea. I've not done a complex organic grow, but it seems to me that you could surely burn a plant. I mean FFOF burns seedlings all the time. So I'm with Alienwidow on this one.

Pictures 7, 8 and 10 show clear tip burns and there are other suspicious burns on a few other shots. Yes, there are indications of Mg deficiency, and there are a few spots that look Ca related. But if your soil is toxified with excess nutrients...it could well be blocking nutrient absorption. In which case additional stuff...and I mean Epsom salts, may only make it worse.

Next time pots are dry, just use water and enough to get a runoff. Test the runoff for ph and ppm. This will either prove or disprove my idea. I think it's worth exploring.
JD

Nizza said:

for one, the RO water you add the second time may be shocking the microbes in the brew, it may be a good idea to pour some brew into that second clean 5 gallons then pour it back into the brew (same reason you never give plants straight RO

also, you sound spot on with the mag deficiency. The molasses should have iron and calcium if it's blackstrap, and the mag would be needed if you didn't mix anything into the soil. To fix this i think you could use epsom salts at the recommended dosage to fix the issue

Click to expand...

hey nizza thanks for the reply, just a few things dont make sense from what you posted.

#1. I've done a ton of reading on brewing tea and i have never read anything about adding RO water to the tea will shock the microbe life. and then you said that you never give straight ro water to plant, well i know many growers including myself who give plant straight ro water the last 2 weeks.

#2. you said that the molasses is providing the calcium but not the magnesium, isn't it the other way around?
btw im using botanic care black strap molasses.

thanks again for your response, im not saying your wrong i just want some clarity.

if any of you other growers have an opinion to this please feel free to say something id really appreciate it.

I was curious, but there really isn't much detailed info out there. This link suggested it has both Ca and Mg.

"molasses is packed with potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium and sugars"

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_8620312_molasses-plants.html#ixzz2sIxZaEbG