Light transition or to not light transition(in bloom)

Ok so I am I believer in the light transition during bloom. Where I go from 400 Watts of hips to 600 Watts after four weeks ofe400watts. I have noticed a huge difference compared just using my 600. Like a 15gr difference. To be clear I'm getting 15grams more compared to when I was using straight 600. As well as Les stretching and obvious cooler temps till the 600.not to mention firmer nuggs. But when I put the 600 in then they explode and I mean really expmean. I will be adding pictures this time this run. So my question is, is their anyone else that does this kin d of transition? If so what are your notes on it. Is their anyone out their using different lighting g techniques that work? Ijustc
Curious to seebwhat everyone has to sat

I use t-5 in veg and 600 HPS and 315 cmh in flower.

I keep the plants individually happy with the distance they like best for all stages with stands. And keep the lights fixed at their max height.

I look for relaxed flat happy leaves. See some light stress and droop. I lower the plant an inch or two.

If you learn to work the 600 better from the start of transition you will eventually yield more. Assuming the environment is correct. With HPS. More watts equals more yield to a point with the right conditions.

I like to have at least 45-50 watts per square foot of canopy.

It can be different with different types of lighting.

Here is a pic. I use sealed air cooled reflectors and the canopy temp is kept at 75-77 degrees farenheight and around 50% relative humidity.

Almost every plant is a different cross or strain from seed. They all have varied needs. It is easier with all the same clone or at least strain.

The lamps average 18" above the highest part of the plant. At that intensity nutrients need to be kept available at the right concentration or some strains can bleach leaves. If I see the stress I would try 20" next and watch the leaves.

My quality and yield doubled with experience and practice. I did not get the same results when I tried a 400 early but did have some trouble working the light in the beginning. Where the 400 was easier to dial in.

Hope this is useful. I think you have an excellent question. Working the lights is part of the "art" of what we do I believe and everyone always just asks "what height?" I was high and had some time during the day for a change.

Took a while to have nice big fat medium green leaves under the HPS.

I also believe the spectrum in these Hortilux Super HPS bulbs helps. Flash was used to show the plants color.

MichiganMedGrower said:

Here is a pic. I use sealed air cooled reflectors and the canopy temp is kept at 75-77 degrees farenheight and around 50% relative humidity.

Almost every plant is a different cross or strain from seed. They all have varied needs. It is easier with all the same clone or at least strain.

The lamps average 18" above the highest part of the plant. At that intensity nutrients need to be kept available at the right concentration or some strains can bleach leaves. If I see the stress I would try 20" next and watch the leaves.

My quality and yield doubled with experience and practice. I did not get the same results when I tried a 400 early but did have some trouble working the light in the beginning. Where the 400 was easier to dial in.

Hope this is useful. I think you have an excellent question. Working the lights is part of the "art" of what we do I believe and everyone always just asks "what height?" I was high and had some time during the day for a change.

Took a while to have nice big fat medium green leaves under the HPS.

I also believe the spectrum in these Hortilux Super HPS bulbs helps. Flash was used to show the plants color.

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nice clean room, good job!

chemphlegm said:

nice clean room, good job!

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Thanks chem