Flowki
Well-Known Member
Some questions that I asked in another persons grow journal but no info yet. Any insights?.
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''forgive me if this is a thread hijack I will remove the post and put up a separate one if so.
I have a lot of question in regard to the use of hay and hoping you can clear things up. If you or anybody else have the time to answer each question would really appreciate it.
Questions relating to coco
1: You use hay as a mulch, I have to ask if you think the micro have enough time to break down enough of that hay for it to be of nutrient benefit (moisture pros aside). On top of that, in use with the extreme myko product, my understanding is this type of mico involved require root contact. I read that certain micro biology can actually create a ''pathway'' to the top mulch and then traffic broken down materiel back to the heard, kinda like ants. Can the bio in the myko product do this also?.
2: As I've read hay is a brown type to release carbon and requires N to make it work. If you were to mix a little hay into the coco (say 5% total volume) you could rob the plant of N while ''possibly'' making the coco too physically hot for roots. Could the N issue be countered some what by adding a small amount of N product also, like used coffee grounds?. Sounds like it is more unknowns and risk than is worth but thought I'd ask.
3: Could it be easier instead to make a myko production tea that uses hay, live enzymes and ofc the myko?. The thought being that a lot less myko product would be required as you could culture a lot of it yourself. The enyme would break down the hay faster giving more food for the myko (my poorly educated assumption). Is the hay alone enough to allow this process or would one be looking to add a small amount of N, used coffee grounds comes to mind again. As it is coco, the thought process is to use as little organic product as possible to keep the water clean (still using a stocking) as to not eventually plug up the coco. But then again if the root mass is full of biology that should not happen?. Do you think that this type of micro that require root contact would actually be able to multiply and survive in a tea brew with ought roots?.
I know that many people will mix the myko in with normal nutrient solution but I find myself unable to have confidence in this. By all I've read they don't like a lot of P but it is in the base along with PH down. And one does not know what other reaction in such fertilizers may occur. Have you ever seen a lab test of the biology count before and after being added to such a solution?.
4: A bio based pond enzyme one can pick up from a pet store etc is reported to have much the same ingredient as canazyme at a far cheaper price, not sure if that info is still valid, thoughts?.
5: A final mostly unrelated question. You can buy rather cheap tablets/solution from pet stores that will remove chlorine/chloromine and heavy metals, copper/iron etc. Do you have a better understanding on using this to get a better tea brew water?. I've read that mico biology is a lot more resistant to small amounts of ch/s than first thought. Alternatively could one simply add in a few mill of the very cheap bio pond cleaner first so that any reaction to the chlorine falls upon them?, little cannon fodder so to speak.''
----------
''forgive me if this is a thread hijack I will remove the post and put up a separate one if so.
I have a lot of question in regard to the use of hay and hoping you can clear things up. If you or anybody else have the time to answer each question would really appreciate it.
Questions relating to coco
1: You use hay as a mulch, I have to ask if you think the micro have enough time to break down enough of that hay for it to be of nutrient benefit (moisture pros aside). On top of that, in use with the extreme myko product, my understanding is this type of mico involved require root contact. I read that certain micro biology can actually create a ''pathway'' to the top mulch and then traffic broken down materiel back to the heard, kinda like ants. Can the bio in the myko product do this also?.
2: As I've read hay is a brown type to release carbon and requires N to make it work. If you were to mix a little hay into the coco (say 5% total volume) you could rob the plant of N while ''possibly'' making the coco too physically hot for roots. Could the N issue be countered some what by adding a small amount of N product also, like used coffee grounds?. Sounds like it is more unknowns and risk than is worth but thought I'd ask.
3: Could it be easier instead to make a myko production tea that uses hay, live enzymes and ofc the myko?. The thought being that a lot less myko product would be required as you could culture a lot of it yourself. The enyme would break down the hay faster giving more food for the myko (my poorly educated assumption). Is the hay alone enough to allow this process or would one be looking to add a small amount of N, used coffee grounds comes to mind again. As it is coco, the thought process is to use as little organic product as possible to keep the water clean (still using a stocking) as to not eventually plug up the coco. But then again if the root mass is full of biology that should not happen?. Do you think that this type of micro that require root contact would actually be able to multiply and survive in a tea brew with ought roots?.
I know that many people will mix the myko in with normal nutrient solution but I find myself unable to have confidence in this. By all I've read they don't like a lot of P but it is in the base along with PH down. And one does not know what other reaction in such fertilizers may occur. Have you ever seen a lab test of the biology count before and after being added to such a solution?.
4: A bio based pond enzyme one can pick up from a pet store etc is reported to have much the same ingredient as canazyme at a far cheaper price, not sure if that info is still valid, thoughts?.
5: A final mostly unrelated question. You can buy rather cheap tablets/solution from pet stores that will remove chlorine/chloromine and heavy metals, copper/iron etc. Do you have a better understanding on using this to get a better tea brew water?. I've read that mico biology is a lot more resistant to small amounts of ch/s than first thought. Alternatively could one simply add in a few mill of the very cheap bio pond cleaner first so that any reaction to the chlorine falls upon them?, little cannon fodder so to speak.''
