Need an Assist with some Nutrients and Scheduling

Hi... I'm new here and new to growing

I have acquired myself some autoflower seeds and a variety of nutrients. The problem is that the nutrients i have are from different manufacturers, and as a result, I'm having a difficult time figuring out which product should be added when. I read on here that they should all be from the same manufacturer, but unfortunately, I have what I have, and I don't want to buy any more nutes unless there is an absolute 'must have' that I'm missing. If you could please also advise if I should scale back on the mix ratios of any specific nutrient, I'd appreciate it.... I'm concerned about lockout and not sure if I'm supposed to reduce amounts as I add more nutes.

My nutrients are listed below:

• Advanced Nutrients - pH Perfect Grow/Bloom/Micro
• Blue Planet Nutrients - CalMag
• General Hydroponics - RapidStart
• General Hydroponics - Floralicious Plus
• Europonics - Nitrozime
• Nutrilife - SM-90

Note: I am growing four autoflowers (gorilla glue, northern lights, cheese), indoors, in a mix of coco/perlite/vermiculite.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations or advice you could provide.

Sometimes pictures help and I admit it would have helped had I included them in my original post.

The main question I'm posing to the forum: Should I follow the directions according to the labels of each of the nutrients shown, or do I need to scale back some things since I'll be combining them ‍

Secondly, any recommended order in which I add each nutrient to the water?

The 1st pic shows all nutrients I have on hand, except for the SM-90, which is shown in the 2nd photo, and presently en route.






In an effort to avoid re-living my struggles in high school chemistry, or all those failed attempts of trying make the swimming pool clear again, I thought I'd give Advanced Nutrient's pH perfect a try

They claim it balances pH on tap water, and I want the extra step of filtering with a Brita filter before adding the Base nutes. I am reluctant to get into learning pH, PPM, EC and all of that stuff for my first grow, so might there be any general advice this fine community of growers has, even if its like "IDK, do whatever the labels say and see what happens" or "only use half the RapidStart since you're using the regular base nutes" or "start using Floralicious Plus in week 4" ... any kind of input of feedback like that would be very much appreciated.

At present, the 7-day old seedlings have only been getting the Advanced Nutrients Micro/Grow/Bloom base nutes and GH RapidStart - both as directed on the label. I plan to start using CalMag tomorrow. Beyond that, I don't know.. any advice?

2 suggestions.

1. Know your coco.

Just one of many sites with coco info.

2. Get guidance from someone using the same nutes in coco.

On the down side. With coco, I find it necessary to manage PH and ppm.

You might be able to get near free nutrient samples here. I prefer their 2part.

John1977 said:

Hi... I'm new here and new to growing

I have acquired myself some autoflower seeds and a variety of nutrients. The problem is that the nutrients i have are from different manufacturers, and as a result, I'm having a difficult time figuring out which product should be added when. I read on here that they should all be from the same manufacturer, but unfortunately, I have what I have, and I don't want to buy any more nutes unless there is an absolute 'must have' that I'm missing. If you could please also advise if I should scale back on the mix ratios of any specific nutrient, I'd appreciate it.... I'm concerned about lockout and not sure if I'm supposed to reduce amounts as I add more nutes.

My nutrients are listed below:

• Advanced Nutrients - pH Perfect Grow/Bloom/Micro
• Blue Planet Nutrients - CalMag
• General Hydroponics - RapidStart
• General Hydroponics - Floralicious Plus
• Europonics - Nitrozime
• Nutrilife - SM-90

Note: I am growing four autoflowers (gorilla glue, northern lights, cheese), indoors, in a mix of coco/perlite/vermiculite.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations or advice you could provide.

Click to expand...

1. Start off with 25% dose
2. only up the dose if the plant looks deficient.
3. Should have been #1... make sure all the nutes you uses are ok to use in coco.

TintEastwood said:

You might be able to get near free nutrient samples here. I prefer their 2part.

Mega Crop 2 Part A Hydroponic Professional

New formula and stock available now ! Try 400g or 400g/combo size discount with coupon code: FREEPROMO Mega Crop 2 Part is a 2 part nutrient system that is suitable for Hydroponics, Fertilizer Inj…

greenleafnutrients.com

Click to expand...

I'll check it out

TintEastwood said:

2 suggestions.

1. Know your coco.

Just one of many sites with coco info.

Growing Cannabis in Coco Coir with High Frequency Fertigation - Coco For Cannabis

Learn how to unlock the magic of growing cannabis in coco coir with high frequency fertigation! Guide to feed and water cannabis in coco like a pro!

www.cocoforcannabis.com

2. Get guidance from someone using the same nutes in coco.

On the down side. With coco, I find it necessary to manage PH and ppm.

Click to expand...

I guess I have some more reading up to do on coco. Thanks for the link, I'll read up on that link you provided tomorrow for certain!

Regarding point #2:
Since I don't know anyone doing a grow, I'll have to look to the forum.
Thanks for the tips

HydroKid239 said:

1. Start off with 25% dose
2. only up the dose if the plant looks deficient.
3. Should have been #1... make sure all the nutes you uses are ok to use in coco.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks for that. Does your recommendation of 25% dose apply to everything including base nutes, or only the additives?

As far as compatibility is concerned, I think I noticed a couple of the product descriptions said they were OK for coco, but I don't recall if I looked into each one. I'll make sure I check on that before next feed!

Coco. Some guys grow in larger pots and feed less often. There are different grow styles. Try to find the one that fits you.

TintEastwood said:

Coco. Some guys grow in larger pots and feed less often. There are different grow styles. Try to find the one that fits you.

Click to expand...

Gotcha, I'll try to figure it out.
I went with a mix of coco, perlite, vermiculite, and I'm trying out 1 plant with water retaining crystals as well. I went with 3 gallon fabric pots. Water seems to be retaining very well, and my feed is in the water. I gave them one main drench the first feeding, and then subsequently just watered and fed around the seedling since that was the driest part of the pot and the rest seemed to have retained quite a bit of moisture.

John1977 said:

Ok thanks for that. Does your recommendation of 25% dose apply to everything including base nutes, or only the additives?

As far as compatibility is concerned, I think I noticed a couple of the product descriptions said they were OK for coco, but I don't recall if I looked into each one. I'll make sure I check on that before next feed!

Click to expand...

run additives at the same reduction as you are base nutes. If Base is reduced 50%, reduce all additives by 50% as well. This is how I feed.
And here is how my grow looks in veg.

Only discoloration I have is on the tips up top of the 1st pic, but that was due to light intensity. I have since backed up the light a tad, and they are doing fine. No burns, because over feeding doesn't exist. I water plain water ph'd with enzymes to clean up root debris (1/2L) before a feed so my run off is mostly water and built up salts from the pot.

Nice! I don't see any blemishes. They look great!
I appreciate the advice

If you buy yourself an EC meter, it'll be more easy to guide you through. The cheap ones will do for the first grow.

BTW what's your medium mix ratio? And is your coco/medium already pre-charged?

I'll look into getting an EC meter. I started to review the post that TintEastwood shared (above) about fertigation.... its a lot to absorb, but I did get a sense that an EC meter would help measure ... something about residual salts , and that EC could be converted to PPM and vice versa.. (at least that's what I understood)... I definitely need to read more thoroughly up about that.

About my medium:
First and foremost, no, the medium was not precharged. I'm hoping I didn't commit a major mistake (fingers crossed).

-- (4) of the autoflowers have a mix of 40% Coco / 40% Perlite / 20% Vermiculite

-- (1) Cheese autoflower has a mix of 40% Coco / 30% Perlite / 10% Vermiculite / 20% water-retaining Hydro Crystals
This plant is intended to go outside once it gets a bit bigger. I don't plan to visit it frequently, so I introduced the moisture retaining hydro crystals, and have been looking at time released nutes. Not sure if the hydrogel crystals will severely interfere with the grow, but I wanted to experiment and not really counting on much for this one... I'm just curious to see what happens

-- (2) Unknown variety planted from bag seeds are in regular potting soil (those are also going outdoors as an experiment too)

John1977 said:

and that EC could be converted to PPM and vice versa.

Click to expand...

Yes, but there are different conversion ratios depending on what country manufacturs the stick. EC is more save to use, usually PPM is just half of it in numbers.

John1977 said:

First and foremost, no, the medium was not precharged. I'm hoping I didn't commit a major mistake (fingers crossed).

Click to expand...

No problem, you just need to give a bit more CalMag with every feed. The AN line already contains some and is pH stable. Since Ca & Mg is also in tapwater it'll be nice to know the water stats, and how much of that is reduced by your filter.

John1977 said:

-- (4) of the autoflowers have a mix of 40% Coco / 40% Perlite / 20% Vermiculite

Click to expand...

Coco & Verm can hold alot of water, while the perlite adds aeration. Don't go overboard with waterings until the plant has more leaves and can clear up the rhizosphere in a day. Cannabis likes a light or well aerated medium - if roots sit too long in water they'll go foul. So best is to always feed in the mourning when the light goes on.

John1977 said:

20% water-retaining Hydro Crystals

Click to expand...

Super-absorber (like Stockosorb?)

Kassiopeija said:

Yes, but there are different conversion ratios depending on what country manufacturs the stick. EC is more save to use, usually PPM is just half of it in numbers.


No problem, you just need to give a bit more CalMag with every feed. The AN line already contains some and is pH stable. Since Ca & Mg is also in tapwater it'll be nice to know the water stats, and how much of that is reduced by your filter.


Coco & Verm can hold alot of water, while the perlite adds aeration. Don't go overboard with waterings until the plant has more leaves and can clear up the rhizosphere in a day. Cannabis likes a light or well aerated medium - if roots sit too long in water they'll go foul. So best is to always feed in the mourning when the light goes on.


Super-absorber (like Stockosorb?)

Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying... I'll go with the EC meter then instead of PPM.
I'm glad to hear that refraining from precharge hasn't spoiled the pot! I'll keep up with the CalMag... the mfgr recommends 3-5ML per gallon so I'll target 5ml/g going forward instead of the 3ml/g I have been using.

I'm not sure if I read this correctly elsewhere, however I believe I read that when watering coco, you should administer water until it leaches through the fabric bag and the reason I understood is that you could not over water a coco coir mix. Is that accurate? I haven't done it yet because it seemed like maybe that advice was post-seedling, when they're using more water and nutes. Since the initial drench, I have only been sprinkling around the rhizosphere to maintain moisture where visibly less moist (where the coco was lighter in comparison the the rest of the pot).

With regard to the hydro gel/crystals... yes, like the stockosorb product. I read about it's possible benefits at the following site and decided to try it out for the outdoor plants... https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-the-cannabis-farmer-s-guide-to-water-absorbent-polymers-n850

Thanks again for your help... much appreciated!

John1977 said:

Thanks for clarifying... I'll go with the EC meter then instead of PPM.
I'm glad to hear that refraining from precharge hasn't spoiled the pot! I'll keep up with the CalMag... the mfgr recommends 3-5ML per gallon so I'll target 5ml/g going forward instead of the 3ml/g I have been using

Click to expand...

Later when you have a meter you can use it to make your nutrition solution, Cannabis needs around EC 0.2-0.4 mS in CalMag, with unbuffered Coco you can increase that a little +0.1-0.2. Young plants need less, it's best to increase the feeding strength over time. And judge by the leaf color if you should increase or not. There are a number of factors which affect the feeding strength, light, temps, rH, feeding frequency, genetics etc so it's impossible to say in advance the ultimate EC, but it usually is around 1.5-2.0 mS.
A good thing is to jot all the measured numbers down, that'll result in a steeper learning curve...

John1977 said:

I'm not sure if I read this correctly elsewhere, however I believe I read that when watering coco, you should administer water until it leaches through the fabric bag and the reason I understood is that you could not over water a coco coir mix. Is that accurate?

Click to expand...

Coco comes in different qualities - and if it was very fine grained or powdery (bad quality) it will not hold as much air as better quality coco. It also depends on your mix, and how fast the plant is able to such away the feeding water. The question you need to ask yourself is - if it makes sense to give the plant more water even if there's plenty in the pot? So when I put a seeding in a pot I don't water for about 2 weeks... however, if coco dries out it's hard to make it moist again, so that's why spraying at the top is a good idea.
Later, when the plant is grown up you can water daily, or every second day. Just as is necessary.

John1977 said:

With regard to the hydro gel/crystals... yes, like the stockosorb product. I read about it's possible benefits at the following site and decided to try it out for the outdoor plants... https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-the-cannabis-farmer-s-guide-to-water-absorbent-polymers-n850

Click to expand...

One word of warning:
Seedbanks hand out bad advice with the intention to ruin your grow - so you have to buy more seeds.

Example?
"The added bonus is a better-aerated medium and more efficient use of fertilisers."
&
"Guaranteed not to delay or taint your harvest. "

The opposite is actually true. Stockosorb makes the medium LESS aerated - as it holds a boatload of water.
It's only beneficial if used in an environment like a desert, when there's plenty of sun and less rain, so plants would see drought stress occassionally. Superabsorber require to be osmotically drenched of their water regularily - otherwise the water inside gets foul, nourishing anaerobic bad bacterias which produce harmful toxins. This can introduce root rot - one of the greatest dangers as it can kill your plant. I've tested this extensively, and still am...

20% is very much - was that already quelled or still dry? But I don't know your climate zone and what plants ususally can grow there, so if you are in Mexiko or in Marocco close to a desert it may be ok...

Here I tested how well different mediums (coco vs hydroton) can allow sprouting. Both saw an equal sumber of seeds - but the coco can hold up twice the water - but many of its seeds drowned, and then started to mold inside the substrate... :/


Left side is ~ 70% coco, rest hydroton/ perlite, right side is various hydrotons, perlite plus very little Stockosorb.

So it's definitely possible to kill young plants in coco by waterstress.

Thank you for the guidance on the EC readings; much appreciated

I'm pretty sure the Coco was low quality, I paid $8 for a 3-brick pack (21 Liters) from a big box store, and it does seem to me like the texture was fine. That being said, I'll scrap any plans to drench them and haven't yet except for the initial drench. You make very good points in this regard, as well as the recommendation to spray them early on. I had actually added a spray bottle to my shopping list because I've knocked the seedlings over watering them with a watering can and had to act quick to prop the girls back up!!! So, yes, I plan to follow your advice and get a sprayer. And I do see your point about being able to overwater in coco... thanks for the visual aid.

I definitely get your point about marketing claims by seed banks to increase your need to come back for more shopping. I'm not going to risk the indoor grow with the stockosorb amendment, which was about 20% of the current potting mix by volume, after the crystals had absorbed the nutrient-treated water. I don't think stockosorb needs to be considered if you are on-site watering/feeding regularly and basically keeping an eye on things as you should. My purpose of adding it to the amendment is solely for the plants that will be planted outdoors. I thought it would be a necessity since I plan to visit site only a few times.

Your point about precipitation is valid and the other reason I proceeded with the Stockosorb is because precipitation drops off considerably here from the time they'll be planted until the time they'll be harvested. For the grow period, the avg monthly precipitation is about 5 cm (2 in) per month. They will be outdoors approximately 60 days, of which 15 days would see precipitation according to historical averages. High temps around 26C (79F) and Lows around 17C (63F). I will be mixing in the medium from the 1L grow pot with the soil at the site, so the ratios of each respective medium component will shift as the potting mix is blended in with native soil. While I hope the 2nd project is successful, I really don't expect much (if anything), and really only plan to focus on the indoor grow.

John1977 said:

I'm pretty sure the Coco was low quality, I paid $8 for a 3-brick pack (21 Liters) from a big box store, and it does seem to me like the texture was fine. That being said, I'll scrap any plans to drench them and haven't yet except for the initial drench. You make very good points in this regard, as well as the recommendation to spray them early on. I had actually added a spray bottle to my shopping list because I've knocked the seedlings over watering them with a watering can and had to act quick to prop the girls back up!!! So, yes, I plan to follow your advice and get a sprayer. And I do see your point about being able to overwater in coco... thanks for the visual aid.

Click to expand...

Bad quality coco may contain a high concentration of sea-salt and sand, once you get your EC meter and do the next real big watering you could drain (to waste) about 20-30% of the potsize - but measure the drain beforeahead. The number will give you a quick feedback if you need to further drain unwanted residual salts out or not. The coco I used above is also cheap (actually, for free - as I complained) and had an initial EC of over 3.9999mS (beyond the scale...)

John1977 said:

I definitely get your point about marketing claims by seed banks to increase your need to come back for more shopping. I'm not going to risk the indoor grow with the stockosorb amendment, which was about 20% of the current potting mix by volume, after the crystals had absorbed the nutrient-treated water. I don't think stockosorb needs to be considered if you are on-site watering/feeding regularly and basically keeping an eye on things as you should.

Click to expand...

Spot on point

John1977 said:

For the grow period, the avg monthly precipitation is about 5 cm (2 in) per month. They will be outdoors approximately 60 days, of which 15 days would see precipitation according to historical averages. High temps around 26C (79F) and Lows around 17C (63F).

Click to expand...

That's actually low temps for Cannabis. Above temps of over 35°C photosynthetic stiffling begins to set in, and below 18°C enzymatic activity is being reduced. This also implies now that your outdoor plants won't become as large, drink not excessively much, and may need a longer time to ripen out. Most breeder estimates are given for their fastest plant - under optimal conditions. The only thing that may be favourabel in your case is that there's a chance that your plant - since it's an Auto - is more accustomed to colder climate, as such is the ruderalis genetic origin.
Every 4th day rain sounds about right.
That will be a good experiment for you to see what works or not

In an indoor growth you aim for 25-30°C ambient temps under LED - less means minor growth reduction, and higher can cause terpenes to evaporate more quickly.

John1977 said:

While I hope the 2nd project is successful, I really don't expect much (if anything), and really only plan to focus on the indoor grow.

Click to expand...

Always good to have Plan A+B, isn't it?

John1977 said:

historical averages. High temps around 26C (79F) and Lows around 17C (63F).

Click to expand...

btw are these averages counted only for the day or include the night as well (then it would be quite warm...)