Needing compost/ nutrient tea advice and recipes.

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Hey im new to growing..

I think I found a soil recipe that I am going to use. Im looking for compost tea recipes for veg and bloom cycles! To maximize my yield.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Most people on here follow Clackamas Coots. Here is a 3 part pod series and he explains things pretty well in here, he covers compost and worm bins too. The other pods are very good too. I wish that I had this when I started out...
 

rkmcdon

Well-Known Member
I based my recipe on microbeorganics.com.
you take your water volume (i use a 50 gallon brewer) and multiply it by 2.38% to get the volume of compost you need
50*.0238=1.19 gallons(about 19cups) of compost. Instead of straight compost, I do 10 cups of compost, 2 cups of ewc, 2 cups of insect frass, 2 cups of bat guano and 2 cups of bio-live. I do this for biodiversity and because it also makes a richer, more diverse top dress (assuming you top dress with the components after you make your tea).
to this you add blackstrap at 0.5% of the water volume which for me is 50*.005=.25gallons which is 4 cups

I hope that helps!
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Hey im new to growing..

I think I found a soil recipe that I am going to use. Im looking for compost tea recipes for veg and bloom cycles! To maximize my yield.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I have learned that while giving teas is beneficial for healthy plants they will not necessarily make bigger flowers. Wattage, LST, and light manipulation do. I mean you need to provide adequate NPK inputs along with minerals and active compost to keep them happy and green but once those bases are covered adding more of this or that will not in and of itself grow bigger buds.
Try to get away from the veg/bloom cycle mentality. You don’t really need to give different tea recipes or change much of anything just because plants are in veg or flowering. Thing about organics is if you see the plants are going south it’s kind of already too late to fix it before it gets worse. Sometimes soluble forms of NPK are needed to go to work fast; I keep some liquid fish on standby in case they start to look pale late in veg or mid-bloom. Usually it’s because they have been in the same container for too long.
You have to sort of give them what they need before they need it. For each final bloom pot I put in a handful or two of chicken manure and two Jobes organic spikes. Usually keeps them green almost through to harvest time. Don’t give teas much anymore because I opt for putting compost in the mix directly but here’s my go to all purpose aact recipe:

2 cups EWC
1 tblspn Kelp meal
1 tsp molasses
(Optional) 1 tsp liquid fish emulsion ....if they need a boost
Add to 3-5 gal of clean water
& bubble 36+ hours
 

GreenGuy_1995

Well-Known Member
I have learned that while giving teas is beneficial for healthy plants they will not necessarily make bigger flowers. Wattage, LST, and light manipulation do. I mean you need to provide adequate NPK inputs along with minerals and active compost to keep them happy and green but once those bases are covered adding more of this or that will not in and of itself grow bigger buds.
Try to get away from the veg/bloom cycle mentality. You don’t really need to give different tea recipes or change much of anything just because plants are in veg or flowering. Thing about organics is if you see the plants are going south it’s kind of already too late to fix it before it gets worse. Sometimes soluble forms of NPK are needed to go to work fast; I keep some liquid fish on standby in case they start to look pale late in veg or mid-bloom. Usually it’s because they have been in the same container for too long.
You have to sort of give them what they need before they need it. For each final bloom pot I put in a handful or two of chicken manure and two Jobes organic spikes. Usually keeps them green almost through to harvest time. Don’t give teas much anymore because I opt for putting compost in the mix directly but here’s my go to all purpose aact recipe:

2 cups EWC
1 tblspn Kelp meal
1 tsp molasses
(Optional) 1 tsp liquid fish emulsion ....if they need a boost
Add to 3-5 gal of clean water
& bubble 36+ hours
Hey RD, curious - which Jobe's spikes do you use?
 

norcalreppin77

Well-Known Member
My base is Alaskan humus. Ive done worm castings and Alaskan humus works better for me.

8 cups alaskan humus
1/4 cup nature's pride brix
4 oz liquid seaweed or kelp.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Hey RD, curious - which Jobe's spikes do you use?
The all purpose flower and vegetable; can’t go wrong with these. They are made of mostly feather and bone meal plus mycorrhizae and potash. You just push them in and they feed for about 8 weeks. I put two 180 deg from each other about an inch or two inside the rim of the container. If you push them in after a transplant just outside where the old root ball is new roots will grow in around them. You could always make you own DIY spikes too but at $6 per 50pk these are cheaper than buying the amendments. Found at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Amazon, etc

 

rkmcdon

Well-Known Member
The all purpose flower and vegetable; can’t go wrong with these. They are made of mostly feather and bone meal plus mycorrhizae and potash. You just push them in and they feed for about 8 weeks. I put two 180 deg from each other about an inch or two inside the rim of the container. If you push them in after a transplant just outside where the old root ball is new roots will grow in around them. You could always make you own DIY spikes too but at $6 per 50pk these are cheaper than buying the amendments. Found at Home Depot, Lowe’s, Amazon, etc

How quickly do these start feeding? Also, will a 10 gallon pot of well amended soil not carry the plant through to harvest? (Transplant to 10 gallon pot to harvest is typically 11-12 weeks for me)
 

Growitpondifarm

Well-Known Member
How quickly do these start feeding? Also, will a 10 gallon pot of well amended soil not carry the plant through to harvest? (Transplant to 10 gallon pot to harvest is typically 11-12 weeks for me)
Should be fine in 10 gallons. When I was growing in 7 gal pots, I would hit them with couple inches of compost and water in some fish right when is flip them into bloom
 

youraveragehorticulturist

Well-Known Member
Alfalfa-Kelp Veg Tea
2 teaspoons alfalfa and one teaspoon kelp per gallon of water. Cut 50/50 with water to half strength for young plants.

Early Flower
1 teaspoon alfalfa, one teaspoon phosphorus bat guano, one teaspoon kelp meal per gallon of water.

Late flower
2 teaspoon fish hydrolysate, 2 teaspoon kelp extract, 1 teaspoon molasses per gallon of water.

There's definitely plenty of room to use other stuff, like seabird guano instead of alfalfa and bat guano in the early flower recipe, or neem instead of alfalfa in the veg.

Also these aren't to force feed your plants, like in a chemical feeding schedule, they're just to keep in mind if your plants start to look pale, spotted, striped or hungry during your grow.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
How quickly do these start feeding? Also, will a 10 gallon pot of well amended soil not carry the plant through to harvest? (Transplant to 10 gallon pot to harvest is typically 11-12 weeks for me)
Like anything else it takes a week or two for spikes to go to work but these usually fall off by week 8 or so. I cannot say for sure if your 10 gal container will keep them green through to harvest because I have no idea what in your mix. I can tell you that it’s always better to pot up to the final size containers just before you flip them rather than waiting several weeks before or after. Ten Or 7 gal is typically the size we flower in and even then sometimes don’t get it right. Spikes are such slow release that even a little overkill won’t hurt. I would even go so far as to suggest adding in a fertilizer input as well; like chicken or cow manure, etc.
You do not need your plants to use up every bit of nutrient value in the mix before harvest; there will always be leftovers. Soil never depletes; just becomes inactive. Can happen fast in a container. This is why the most important thing is to keep the mix active by adding in more compost. Be it in tea or just raw form. Amendments don’t really do anything unless your mix is active. Once your soil reaches “supernatural“ status you’ll have less doubts about sustainability.
 

rkmcdon

Well-Known Member
Like anything else it takes a week or two for spikes to go to work but these usually fall off by week 8 or so. I cannot say for sure if your 10 gal container will keep them green through to harvest because I have no idea what in your mix. I can tell you that it’s always better to pot up to the final size containers just before you flip them rather than waiting several weeks before or after. Ten Or 7 gal is typically the size we flower in and even then sometimes don’t get it right. Spikes are such slow release that even a little overkill won’t hurt. I would even go so far as to suggest adding in a fertilizer input as well; like chicken or cow manure, etc.
You do not need your plants to use up every bit of nutrient value in the mix before harvest; there will always be leftovers. Soil never depletes; just becomes inactive. Can happen fast in a container. This is why the most important thing is to keep the mix active by adding in more compost. Be it in tea or just raw form. Amendments don’t really do anything unless your mix is active. Once your soil reaches “supernatural“ status you’ll have less doubts about sustainability.
Thanks, that helps.
I do most of veg in smaller containers and then up pot to final containers 2 weeks before flip. I've always done this since both flipping and transplanting are stressors and didn't want to do them together. Maybe i have been over cautious in this respect? When you say you transplant just before you flip, do you mean within a day or two or are you giving it a little more time than that?
I'm trying to build a pretty robust soil, but havent had it through a full run yet to see if it will last an entire 11 weeks (2 weeks veg plus 9 flower) yet. I'm finally finishing the transition so should have a better idea in the next couple of months. As I transitioned ive been supplementing with age old bloom once a week to try to head off any nutrient deficiencies which has worked well, but we are now dropping that to see how the soil holds up. I may grab a few spikes to add about 2 weeks into veg as a safety net :)

My current mix is:
26 gallons sphagnum
10 gallons ewc
8 gallons pumice
7 gallons rice hulls
1 gallon insect frass
1 gallon bio-live (fish bone meal, fish meal, crustacean meal, alfalfa meal, langbeinite and kelp meal with beneficial bacteria and fungi)
4 cups each of azomite, basalt, gypsum and oyster shell (i'm bumping this to 6 cups each starting next mix)
2 cups neem
I'm adding 2 cups kelp meal starting next mix
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Yeah wouldn’t worry about transplant stress too much. It’s not really a thing unless you destroy the root ball in the process. I will transplant to final bloom pots and then drop them right into the flower room. Depends upon space availability and whatever else is going on.
Within a few days of transplant shouldn’t make much difference; I’m talking several weeks here. Some people try to go from a seedling in a beer cup to a 5 gal; veg for a few more weeks and then flip them without going bigger. Then cannot figure out why they are getting pale in week 6 of bloom. If you plan to give a soluble form of NPK if they need it in mid to late bloom then I would say you are probably good to go. It takes a few recycles in my experience for a given mix to get to supernatural status but you’ll know it when you get there.
 

norcalreppin77

Well-Known Member
Thanks, that helps.
I do most of veg in smaller containers and then up pot to final containers 2 weeks before flip. I've always done this since both flipping and transplanting are stressors and didn't want to do them together. Maybe i have been over cautious in this respect? When you say you transplant just before you flip, do you mean within a day or two or are you giving it a little more time than that?
I'm trying to build a pretty robust soil, but havent had it through a full run yet to see if it will last an entire 11 weeks (2 weeks veg plus 9 flower) yet. I'm finally finishing the transition so should have a better idea in the next couple of months. As I transitioned ive been supplementing with age old bloom once a week to try to head off any nutrient deficiencies which has worked well, but we are now dropping that to see how the soil holds up. I may grab a few spikes to add about 2 weeks into veg as a safety net :)

My current mix is:
26 gallons sphagnum
10 gallons ewc
8 gallons pumice
7 gallons rice hulls
1 gallon insect frass
1 gallon bio-live (fish bone meal, fish meal, crustacean meal, alfalfa meal, langbeinite and kelp meal with beneficial bacteria and fungi)
4 cups each of azomite, basalt, gypsum and oyster shell (i'm bumping this to 6 cups each starting next mix)
2 cups neem
I'm adding 2 cups kelp meal starting next mix
Why lol
 

rkmcdon

Well-Known Member
Yeah wouldn’t worry about transplant stress too much. It’s not really a thing unless you destroy the root ball in the process. I will transplant to final bloom pots and then drop them right into the flower room. Depends upon space availability and whatever else is going on.
Within a few days of transplant shouldn’t make much difference; I’m talking several weeks here. Some people try to go from a seedling in a beer cup to a 5 gal; veg for a few more weeks and then flip them without going bigger. Then cannot figure out why they are getting pale in week 6 of bloom. If you plan to give a soluble form of NPK if they need it in mid to late bloom then I would say you are probably good to go. It takes a few recycles in my experience for a given mix to get to supernatural status but you’ll know it when you get there.
You know that does present me with an opportunity. Lugging 10 gallon pots between veg and lower gets to be a bit of a chore, and the 10 gallon pots take up a lot of space in veg when i'm getting 20+ plants ready for flower. It sounds like i could go from clone rack to pint pots to 1 gallon pots. Veg in 1 gallon until they are the proper height then just transplant into 10 gallon pots in flower flipping the day of transplant. It would save us a lot of work and make better use of our limited veg space.
 
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