negatives of soilless systems - best ways to work around them?

loveleds

Member
I'm working on designing a really versatile, really cheap soilless system. I'm trying to make sure that it has features built in that help mitigate the negatives associated with hydro/aero systems. I've worked in several things, but want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious, or have a complex solution where something simpler will do.

The negatives of soilless systems that I've found:

*initial cost can get pretty costly for advanced systems
*ongoing costs can get pretty high too, based on the type of system, the kind of medium used, and the nutrients chosen
*soilless growing requires more attention and knowledge than traditional gardening methods
*power failure = crop stress - and for some systems, can mean crop death in a matter of hours
*diseases and pests affect entire crop - while soilless systems aren't as prone to some diseases, once one takes hold, your entire system is compromised
*some soilless systems with minimal medium don't provide much stability for the plant, so you end up with a top heavy plant that requires lots of support

What are some other major 'cons' to soilless growing?

I've compiled my favorite ways you guys (and the rest of the internets) have dealt with these negatives. Remember, at all points I'm looking for value (long life, reasonable cost) and simplicity.

*initial cost:
-Start up costs can be kept to a minimum by using cross purposed products wherever possible (dedicated hydro stuff is sometimes WAY more expensive than the same product made for a huge industry like food service) and designing a system just large enough to take advantage of some scale. A single bucket system is going to cost a lot more 'per plant' than a four bucket system, and up to a certain point, you'll always get lower 'per plant' costs with a larger system.

*ongoing costs:
-Fertilizer costs can get pretty high if you use hydro-specific nutrients, but you can get away with spending a lot less by using commercial products like Dyna gro. You can save even MORE money by mixing your own, which I will do once I get the hang of soilless growing. Mixing your own also lets you make changes to individual components, build in pH buffering, and probably do other cool flexible things I'll learn about when I get there.
-Another major ongoing cost is in medium - some mediums can only be used once, which adds a lot to the long term cost 'per plant.' It seems like there are two main ways to deal with this - by using a system design that requires less medium, or by incorporating a medium that can be reused. Some combination of the two is probably the best way to reduce long term costs but still maximize plant growth. Right now, I'm leaning towards using net pots (reduces the amount of medium needed) and filling them with rocks or hydroton or aquarium glass mixed with some water loving medium. Ideally, even the other medium (coir, rockwool of some sort, sure to grow, etc...) will be at least somewhat reusable. In the end, I'm looking to balance FAST growth with very low ongoing costs - which is, essentially, what I'm experimenting with.
-There's also the ongoing water cost, but since soilless is so much more water efficient than traditional agriculture, I don't worry too much about this except that I have no intention of building a drain-to-waste system. I feel like those are dumb and counteract too many of the benefits of hydroponics.

*maintenance and knowledge:
-I am trying to design a system simple enough that the eventual end user could be a bright nine year old capable of figuring out which simple list of directions to follow. I'm trying to minimize the amount of time each day that needs to be given, as well as trying to increase the amount of time the system can go without more than just a five minute check and refill. At the end of it, the system will definitely still require a little more upkeep than traditional gardening, but I want to come up with simple enough bits and pieces (sensors and the like) that can be broken down to lists of steps in a short instruction manual.

*power failure implications:
-this one scares the bejesus out of me, but it seems simple enough to work around . for each system (say, four or eight buckets?) you'd just need one extra (small) pump on a timer and a UPS. You wouldn't want it to go on very often - especially in aero systems, where a drip will limit your root hair development - but just often enough that plants wouldn't fall over and die before you got the power back on. Unfortunately, UPS are pretty expensive, so it might make more sense to find a 12V pump and timer and DIY a battery backup. lots of things to try!

*disease and pest issues:
-fortunately, there aren't as many things to worry about in soilless systems, but the things that do pop up have the ability to take out entire crops. I'm heavily leaning towards dealing with this by incorporating some sort of organics into the system. The brown slime thread is AWESOME - I'm of the opinion that it can be used as a preventative measure, and he's got it down to a great inexpensive method. I haven't looked deeply into how to adopt that into other systems - like true aero, where the atomization will kill the bacteria - but I'm sure there's a way to work with it, perhaps by incorporating the organics into a separate reservoir with the power backup pump? The other way to handle this is by using disease resistant strains, but I'm not sure how much research there is on some of the diseases that only soilless crops are prone to. I'm definitely aiming towards organics, because I lean kind of hippie and I like the idea of incorporating some of the stuff I know made my dirt gardens thrive.

*plant stability:
I'd love to figure out a way to use aeroponics and something like SWC with virtually no medium, because I think that would maximize growth and minimize ongoing costs. Unfortunately, then you end up with a root system with little to no support, and a very top heavy plant. Some people just support the plant itself as it grows, and I've seen some folks use empty net pots and collars for the roots and first bit of the stem... I'm not a fan of collars, they're kind of expensive for what they are, and I've heard they aren't as reusable as they should be, stuff about not being able to get them sanitized? I've heard the same thing about hydroton and other 'reusable' mediums, actually - and while organics might be able to help with that in the root chamber, I'm not sure that will protect the shoots. As for support, though, I like the idea of bungeeing the whole bucket to the surface it's sitting on, which means the actual plant supports can be more for training than weight support.

So that's what I've got so far in terms of the things that can go disastrously wrong in soilless systems, and some cheap solutions I've stumbled upon or am thinking about for each of them. Anyone have any other soilless issues, and ways they've solved them?



PS - I'm sure you noticed, but I'm ignoring lighting for now. I've done a lot of research, but I haven't actually played with the different options. Soon!
 

brownbusta

Well-Known Member
Nice to see a guy from FL. Anyway, my main concern for soilless systems are as follows:

Finding quality water, or making yours quality
Replacing the damn pH pen (using the vial tester now and threw out my shitty Hanna GroCheck meter)
The nutrient controversy (using Dyna-Gro ftw)
Draining/refilling the res when a sink is not really close
Checking the pH everyday(some nutrients alleviate the need for this)
Keeping the res within temp range(not so applicable for reservoirs that can go outside fo the grow space, ie. Ebb and Gro)
Having to use clamps on connectors to prevent flooding
Multiple timers and syncing
Complete automation would be ideal, but understandably expensive.

Hope this helps. For reference I use Ebb and Flow and CAP Ebb and Grow, and I also grow organic in soil.
 

potshop

Member
I recommend going with a 100% coco setup with no mix. This will be the same as a soil grow, just more watering. You will have plenty of safety buffer. Just make sure you use a solid base nutrient program, since coco is inert. I would go with GH's 3 part in coco.
 

loveleds

Member
Nice to see a guy from FL. Anyway, my main concern for soilless systems are as follows:

Finding quality water, or making yours quality
Replacing the damn pH pen (using the vial tester now and threw out my shitty Hanna GroCheck meter)
The nutrient controversy (using Dyna-Gro ftw)
Draining/refilling the res when a sink is not really close
Checking the pH everyday(some nutrients alleviate the need for this)
Keeping the res within temp range(not so applicable for reservoirs that can go outside fo the grow space, ie. Ebb and Gro)
Having to use clamps on connectors to prevent flooding
Multiple timers and syncing
Complete automation would be ideal, but understandably expensive.

Hope this helps. For reference I use Ebb and Flow and CAP Ebb and Grow, and I also grow organic in soil.
Nice to see a guy from FL. Anyway, my main concern for soilless systems are as follows:

Finding quality water, or making yours quality
Replacing the damn pH pen (using the vial tester now and threw out my shitty Hanna GroCheck meter)
The nutrient controversy (using Dyna-Gro ftw)
Draining/refilling the res when a sink is not really close
Checking the pH everyday(some nutrients alleviate the need for this)
Keeping the res within temp range(not so applicable for reservoirs that can go outside fo the grow space, ie. Ebb and Gro)
Having to use clamps on connectors to prevent flooding
Multiple timers and syncing
Complete automation would be ideal, but understandably expensive.

Hope this helps. For reference I use Ebb and Flow and CAP Ebb and Grow, and I also grow organic in soil.
AWESOME - that's exactly what I needed. I get stuck thinking about things in certain ways, and that's why I beg help on forums =P

So let's see, getting/making quality water - you're right, i never gave a darn about my water in the garden, and in hydroponics I know at the very least I have to adjust the pH. I would *like* to be able to find a nutrient solution / method combination that lets a person use all but the worst tap waters... Or, failing that, some sort of cheap filter (read: not RO!) that doesn't totally scrub the water, just cuts the EC down to something you can work with. Filters are limited-lifespan products, though, so I prefer to do without them if at all possible.

The pH pen - there has got to be some sort of pH meter that works! I am using the drops right now, too, but I don't understand what the problem is with the pH meters on the market. I've got half a mind to buy a bunch of pH sensors and play around with designing my own meter. At least I could make it easy to replace only whatever actual component it is that usually fails. whatever chip that is is probably pretty cheap, or they wouldn't be able to make $15 pH meters.

lol, the nutrient controversy - i'll stay out of that one, I don't really have a horse in the fight. I'm of the opinion that every crop, every growing method, every single situation has a slightly different optimum, and any pre-made solution (hell, even anything you mix yourself) will only be an approximation of what the plant would 'like' you to be giving it. I'm sure that for every general situation there is some commercially available product that is very close to optimal, and there are probably many commercially available products that are more than decent in a wide range of situations, as long as you modify your dilution. Until we have wide-scale careful experimentation going on (one of the goals of my project!) all we can do is guess based on the broad strokes. Failing being able to mix my own with special pH buffering properties, I'm inclined to use a simple one-part nutrient, and particularly like dyna-gro because it is cheap and seems firmly based on numbers and results-oriented science.

draining/refilling the res - yeah, I'm having trouble with this one too. Doing it 'manually' with buckets is a bitch and a half, and usually results in my needing to get out the shop vac. I've seen some interesting faucet adapters, but they all seem to get terrible reviews. plus, how much hose would you need? that can get pricy! theoretically, though, that could be a good way to get some minor filtration before it goes into your system - several layers of that cheap semi-forever japanese filter might work? I'll have to try! I bet I could rig up something cheap that lets me fit something around my shower head or bathtub faucet, has a good 'permanent' filter built in right there in the shower area, and then a connection that has a hose that goes all the way to the reservoir. It wouldn't have any connections except in the tub, so there wouldn't be any places for it to leak anywhere that would piss me off.

the pH check - yes, ideally you could figure out a nutrient solution / system combination where the pH is somewhat more stable. Barring that, though, you can go back to the sensor idea - there ought to be a way to set up a permanent pH reader for the reservoir, that maybe flashes an LED when the pH gets outside a certain range. I'll set that whole thought aside until I get into the circuitry, when I'm playing with the lighting.

temp range - because most any system is MUCH cheaper per plant with more than one bucket, it lends itself to having an external reservoir - and you can have that as big as you have room for, which both reduces pH shift AND temperature shift. Plus, there are LOTS of cross-purposed liquid cooling systems available, and some of them (especially for PCs) are quite small and can be used if a tiny grow can't afford a large reservoir. I plan to play with this, too, especially if I play with ultrasonic aero, which I understand generates a lot of heat. I've also heard that when you run organics (a la the compost tea method) you can get away with higher temperatures. I'm hopeful I won't have to cool anything - cheaper up front AND long term that way - and by picking heat loving crops, you might even get BETTER yields if the water is a little warmer than you could normally get away with.

leaks - or at least, I think that's what you're talking about. My solution to this, in EVERY situation where I've ever had to plumb water, is to only have connections in places I am OK with water dripping from. That means having drip pans around a bucket if it has anything drilled into a side, and going in from the top if a drip pan won't work - even at the expense of a few inches of lift. I don't like using clamps if I can help it, I'd much rather just limit my connections to places where a little leaking doesn't hurt a damn thing.

timers and syncing / automation - yeah, that's my end goal and it's why I'm going through the whole system in such detail, trying to break everything down into the smallest blocks possible. I want to have a system that is flexible, efficient, and as close to automated as I can possibly get - except I want it to be cheap. I'm not asking for that much, right? ;) In all seriousness, I'm working on this one in the back of my head. There is an unlimited supply of old almost worthless computers out there - full of components I'm certain I can use to cheaply automate at least some of the normal 'maintenance' of a soilless system. I've even found a lot of awesome cheap DC pumps that are actually more efficient than their AC counterparts, and computer PSUs are widely available, hella cheap, well regulated, and happen to have standardized inputs and outputs and are BUILT to power things like 12V devices, LEDs, fans, and other cooling options. I should have the first computer PSU powered prototype set up in the next couple of weeks - expect further posts =)

Out of curiosity, do you use any organics / microbials in your soilless systems?

PS - chick from florida =)


I recommend going with a 100% coco setup with no mix. This will be the same as a soil grow, just more watering. You will have plenty of safety buffer. Just make sure you use a solid base nutrient program, since coco is inert. I would go with GH's 3 part in coco.
I am VERY interested in using only coco - or at least, making sure the system is very successfully when used with only coco - because I'm pretty sure that's about the only medium I can use that's organic approved. While I actually don't understand (or agree with what I do know about) how things get approved for organic certification, it's a niche I can't afford to leave out. Plus, I like the idea of using something that I could (theoretically) grow here in Florida on my own farm if zombies attacked. I'm interested in the grocan 'coco dan' croutons, too - because the cheap 5kg bales of coir come pretty fine and it seems to be a little sensitive to overwatering. I have it in my head that I could put down a (hopefully thick) layer of gravel or glass, and then a layer of mixed coconut croutons and fine coir, then my seedlings filled in with the fine coir all around them. I could feed water in at any point in that - probably the 'battery backup' drip line, right at the base of the transplants, on top of the coir / crouton layer. I feel like this could be a good base for several systems - another drip line with maybe continuous feed, or occasional top feed drenchings, sprayers below, true aero, bubbleponics with varying depths of solution... heck, it might even work for ebb and flow, now that i think about it. I really hadn't given ebb and flow much thought because it seemed to hold so much water, but now that I'm contemplating using very dry medium like sure to grow and some of the drier coconut products...

What coco do you use, and in what system? You must not be using the cocotek coir, because I swear I have to water it LESS than I ever did soil, or it ends up way too wet. Maybe that's because I live in Florida, where about 98% of our 'soil' is sand =P you know, actually, I'll go look at your other posts, you only have 35 of them, I can handle that =P
 

doogey420

Well-Known Member
I am growing with a drip for veg. and ebb n flow for flower. First time. I have approx. 2000.00 invested.DSCN1086.jpgDSCN1087.jpgDSCN1088.jpgDSCN1089.jpgDSCN1090.jpgDSCN1091.jpgDay 18
 

Justin00

Active Member
i grew one male in soil before i switched to DWC, and well yeah.

all of the probs listed here are fairly accurate except a few that were never really the prob i was lead to believe they were. but can be worked around with some ingenuity.

the cost is not really bad to get started. you can make some simple home made systems for under 100$ (not including light and cab) and you can get a reasonable hps on line for 150ish. (might want to replace the cheap bulb quickly, but it works well none the less) and then buy or build a cabinet.

my first system:

$6 - 18 gallon tote (walmart)
$1.25 - (6in net pot online)
$20 - air pump (walmart)
$10 - 10lb hydroton (smallest bag they had)
$5 - 2 air stones
$40 - technaflora nute starter set (online)

ph has never been an issue for me, not sure why. for a long time i checked it every time i mixed nutes and a few times a week in between, but it was always spot on, so i quit. now i check ph when i see a ph prob starting with my plants, it has only happened once and it was the first thing i checked, then, fixed, then prob disappeared.

tip: spider mites are the devil, i got them once by taking some new strawberry plants in my grow room that my mother gave me and boom, fought them for over a month, then gave up and chopped my sad little plants and bleached the whole fucking room. and that seemed to finally fix it.
 

DrGreener

New Member
IMO i wouldn't bother going this route to many issues can arise lengthy power outages , more of a chance of floods, getting electrocuted, humidity issues , MOLD , list goes on and most importantly maintenance ,
When growing in these styles of grows first thing comes to my mind is size of plant being you can't really get them real big
so in turn you grow more plants but smaller, as for speed wise compared to any other type of grow , well its all about the grower , room conditions and power used which of course influences yield <--- our main goal or for most growers anyways lol
many will

So lets look at other styles you might be better of going to
First off growing in soils
basic soil
bag of sand 3.00
bag of promix 7.00
bag of top soil 2.50
bag of organic soil 5.00 - 10.00
sheep manure 3.00 very good Slow releasing nutrients
sea compost 3.00 very rich in nutrients as well as organisms
perlite 6.00
lime 8.00
and a decent line of nutrients Veg A and B and flowering A and B 80.00 - 100.00
this is just basic soil and all you would need to get a healthy grow and yield per plant
benefits weekly feeding , you can leave and not worry about plants , via other route its daily ph checking and other issues
yield per plant depends on veg time obviously but remember one thing more plants don't mean more yield
 

doogey420

Well-Known Member
I would imagine growing medically, soil is the favorite medium. I think that hydro is great. When it is time for tomatoes or whatever I decide to grow, at any time of year, then I can do it. I guess to each there own. I am very lucubrious when it comes to my weed. Also I think it just depends on what size pot you grow in, this will make a big difference in yield. At any rate, I spent the money for what I wanted and am happy with the results I am seeing thus far. Cleanliness is the most important. If you want nice strong healthy plants you have to take the time and effort to achieve your goal. If it becomes ubiquitous then you might as well fold your hand. As Ever, DOOGEY420
 

BeaverHuntr

Well-Known Member
Nice to see a guy from FL. Anyway, my main concern for soilless systems are as follows:

Finding quality water, or making yours quality
Replacing the damn pH pen (using the vial tester now and threw out my shitty Hanna GroCheck meter)
The nutrient controversy (using Dyna-Gro ftw)
Draining/refilling the res when a sink is not really close
Checking the pH everyday(some nutrients alleviate the need for this)
Keeping the res within temp range(not so applicable for reservoirs that can go outside fo the grow space, ie. Ebb and Gro)
Having to use clamps on connectors to prevent flooding
Multiple timers and syncing
Complete automation would be ideal, but understandably expensive.

Hope this helps. For reference I use Ebb and Flow and CAP Ebb and Grow, and I also grow organic in soil.
Why did you throw your grocheck away? If you use the Hannah brand storage solution it will last you years.
 

Nitegazer

Well-Known Member
I don't mean to be off-topic, but many, if not most, of the issues listed relate to active hydroponic systems. I hand-water my plants in a soilless medium, which is legitimately a 'soilless system.'
 

Clown Baby

Well-Known Member
ebb n flo is cheap to run and low maintenance. not a lot of parts, not a lot to go wrong.
If you use hydroton, you should be alright incase of power failure. They'll hold enough water to keep your plants alive for a couple of days. Moreso than in aero or DWC.


I'd say longrun, hydro is cheaper than soil, because you don't have to buy new soil every run. Just wash out the hydroton.
Craigslist is your friend when buying flood tables.
 

brownbusta

Well-Known Member
I will admit that 80% of my grow in hydroponic is with dyna-gro(read: inorganic) nutrients. The only time I use an organic product is roots excelurator by house and garden for seedlings and plants that need a little TLC. Otherwise I have been using H2O2 with success for years, negating the need for organic nutes in my hydro setup. In my organic soil grows, which sometimes are run concurrent with hydro, I just use Foxfarm Grow Big x Big Bloom for veg, and Roots Organics Buddha Bloom x Big Bloom for flower. I use superthrive in all methods as an additive, at the prescribed dosing.

I met a nice guy up north who claims he is doing an almost completely automated grow, no expense spared. I was thinking BS after hearing him talk for a few minutes, but he may have something nice going. He was a very intelligent asian kid who breathed college and money, but I just told him I was on the research and educational spectrum of production, so he lost interest. I know people are doing cutting edge things in the field, but most have a great idea and keep it to themselves. Cloning machines and feminizing, in my opinion, are the last great inventions to the art of growing. An actual computer program to control a grow op would be invaluable. I've left my op for up to two weeks, after dialing in flood/drain schedules, light regimens, and taking due caution for things like the unlikely flood and minimizing risk for electricity coming in contact with water, etc. Everything except the pH was fine upon return, and the pH was about 6.5.

Specifically about the pH problem: I use one large reservoir for each of my hydro systems specifically because I do not want to check each bucket and adjust these things one plant at a time. For commercial growers, I suspect they want the least amount of time to be spent calibrating nutrient solutions. A marriage of these two ideas is what we have now with aeroponic/hydro setups using quick pH pens and combo meters. I did use my meter for a long time, but really only found the EC/TDS and temperature functions to be valuable. The pH reading always made me suspicious, and I found myself always referencing the dropper/vial pH checker to make sure the pen didn't need calibration or replacing. The new technology in pH pens are double junctions on the electrode and pens where you can pull out a bit of the electrode to refresh it(?) Either way I just use the vial, but I think buffered solution is the future of solving pH problems.
 

superstoner1

Well-Known Member
i run a full line of botanicare pro plus beneficials in my aero setup. it cost me less than $40 in nutes, from veg to harvest, and my average yield lately has been around 42oz. less than one dollar per ounce, how much does an oz go for? thats a damn good return on investment.

i also use only net pots and collars from clone to harvest. a good silica additive will help strengthen the plants, i use minimal support rails and never have to tie. and cost per plant for netpot and collar is 13¢. never reuse them.
 
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