Nute burn or potassium def?

yabbadabba2

yabbadabba2

Member
Waddup guys and gals,
So this my first run in coco and I’ve been getting these burnt leaf edges that look like Nute burn but also like potassium def I’m on day 16 of flower and was just wondering what advice you guys might have

Setup:600w HPS
8x8 tent
Coco with hydraton
5x 3galon smart pots
R/o water
Gh flora series 3part
10ml bloom/gal, 5ml micro/gal, 2.5 ml calmag/gal
Ppm 850-900
Ph 5.9-6.0
Run off ppm 550-650
Run off ph 5.7
Strain 3 cookies and cream 2 gsc
Day 16 flower
 

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Nutty sKunK

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
yabbadabba2 said:
That’s what I thought at first but I’m kinda scared to up the cal mag because that’ll bring my ppm up to 1000-1100 from everything I’ve read that seems pretty high for coco
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Keep an eye on it. If it gets worse rapidly then time to act.

Every single grow/strain everything is unique. Try upping the cal/Mag in 50ppm blocks if you do decide to add more.
 
yabbadabba2

yabbadabba2

Member
OldMedUser said:
With the very dark green leaves and burnt edges it looks a lot more like nute burn to me.
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I thought so too since I’ve been reading some threads on coco seems everyone runs a pretty low ppm . I will upping my cal mag and lowering my base nutes to see if they bounce back will post pics in a couple of days
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
yabbadabba2 said:
I thought so too since I’ve been reading some threads on coco seems everyone runs a pretty low ppm . I will upping my cal mag and lowering my base nutes to see if they bounce back will post pics in a couple of days
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I'd skip both and just water a couple rounds. If you don't start seeing some of the lowest leaves starting to yellow it means that there's still lots of nutes in the soil. If some start fading after the 2nd watering then feed the next time at no more than half strength. It can be a balancing act and after a couple grows with the same strain you can get them dialed in to grow as fast as possible without fear of over-loading them.

:peace:
 
yabbadabba2

yabbadabba2

Member
polishpollack said:
sure looks like over fert. coco will trap nutrients on its fibers. those orange/brown spots look like a deficiency of some sort. the the three part has cal and mag if you use all three.
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I’m running coco with hydraton can’t water plain water it’ll mess with the cation exchange so my watering is a light feed around 550 ppm then I’m feeding at around 700 ppm it was 950 before I adjusted
 
yabbadabba2

yabbadabba2

Member
polishpollack said:
sure looks like over fert. coco will trap nutrients on its fibers. those orange/brown spots look like a deficiency of some sort. the the three part has cal and mag if you use all three.
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I’m using Lucas formula with the adding cal mag I read somewhere the brown spots from potassium being locked out due to the excess nitrogen probably from the micro and calcium nitrate in the cal mag
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
I doubt if anyone really knows what those spot are.
If you using Lucas then it's not 3 part (if you're not using the green bottle). but I understand what you're saying.
I wouldn't call 550 ppm a light feeding. water will be stored in coco fibers. are you watering too often and consequently giving too much fert, if you put 550 ppm in the water? Your leaves look dark green, an indication of too much nitrogen. Why do you think using just plain water will mess with the cation exchange? What info makes you think this? I think you're over ferting based on bad info about a need for ferts to be mixed with water when you need to water the coco.
 
yabbadabba2

yabbadabba2

Member
I’ve read if you water with plain water itll leech out the the calcium and magnesium that is stored in the cations making potassium and sodium more available be cause coco is rich in potassium and sodium which will cause lock outs and deficiency that is why it is recommended to feed coco with ferts high in cal mag so it stays balanced. And 550 ppm would be a qtr strength of the recommended dose of nutrients without the green bottle I assume it would be higher if it was in there .. that’s just what I’ve read I’m still new to this
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Maybe just lower the ppm some more. Light feedings every time will give best results but you can’t make guidelines gospel. Every plant, room and grow are different.

Like said above too much excess fertilizer is starting to clog roots and burn leaves. The spots show the start of lockout. Plenty of nutes to fend off deficiency although I would follow the 3 part directions at no more than 25% right now.

And you have to experiment to dial in your system but coco needs a continuous cal mag charge as it holds on to elements. Just use less not more until you are sure the plants are healthy and uptaking nutrients.
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I really have to get my hands on some coco and try running a couple plants with it the same way I run my peat based ProMixHP and see what happens.

I hear so many different opinions on how coco should be run that it boggles my mind why anyone would want to run it tho I see lots of great grows using it.

The only time I've tried coco was about 15 years ago when I bought a 10lb brick of raw coco. I knew nothing about it and just hydrated it and used it like peat. Did not go well but I'm sure it was my own fault. Likely was full of salt and needed rinsing but I didn't know at the time and the guy at the hydro store didn't say anything. Just mixed it with a bunch of perlite like I did with the Sunshine Mix I used at the time and stuck plants into it.

For the last few years all the garden centers in my area have started carrying ProMix products and they seem to work great right out of the bag or bale. The HP doesn't even need added perlite and seems to be a perfect media for hydro or organic nutes and is certified organic so a great base for those that like to make their own teas for feeding plants.

Coco is a great idea and more environmentally friendly than peat but sure seems like a lot more work and that's a nasty four letter word to me. :)

:peace:
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
I really have to get my hands on some coco and try running a couple plants with it the same way I run my peat based ProMixHP and see what happens.

I hear so many different opinions on how coco should be run that it boggles my mind why anyone would want to run it tho I see lots of great grows using it.

The only time I've tried coco was about 15 years ago when I bought a 10lb brick of raw coco. I knew nothing about it and just hydrated it and used it like peat. Did not go well but I'm sure it was my own fault. Likely was full of salt and needed rinsing but I didn't know at the time and the guy at the hydro store didn't say anything. Just mixed it with a bunch of perlite like I did with the Sunshine Mix I used at the time and stuck plants into it.

For the last few years all the garden centers in my area have started carrying ProMix products and they seem to work great right out of the bag or bale. The HP doesn't even need added perlite and seems to be a perfect media for hydro or organic nutes and is certified organic so a great base for those that like to make their own teas for feeding plants.

Coco is a great idea and more environmentally friendly than peat but sure seems like a lot more work and that's a nasty four letter word to me. :)

:peace:
Click to expand...

Coco is just another growing medium. It is not better or worse than peat light mix. Just different. It offers no organic input but because of that can be better for a more hydroponic style grow with more control over nutrients.

And pro mix Hp is not organic. I agree it has perfect parameters right out of the bag unlike say ocean forest which isn’t too dense for pot without help.

Pro mix has an organic product. I have not seen or used it. But Hp has a salt based starter nutrient charge, a synthetic wetting agent and I guess the calcitic and dolomite limes may be certified organic. And the peat is of course. Not sure about perlite?

Sunshine mix is made with an organic nutrient charge.

If I am wrong about this please correct me but I believe there is a “pro mix organic mix”.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
OldMedUser said:
I really have to get my hands on some coco and try running a couple plants with it the same way I run my peat based ProMixHP and see what happens.

I hear so many different opinions on how coco should be run that it boggles my mind why anyone would want to run it tho I see lots of great grows using it.

The only time I've tried coco was about 15 years ago when I bought a 10lb brick of raw coco. I knew nothing about it and just hydrated it and used it like peat. Did not go well but I'm sure it was my own fault. Likely was full of salt and needed rinsing but I didn't know at the time and the guy at the hydro store didn't say anything. Just mixed it with a bunch of perlite like I did with the Sunshine Mix I used at the time and stuck plants into it.

For the last few years all the garden centers in my area have started carrying ProMix products and they seem to work great right out of the bag or bale. The HP doesn't even need added perlite and seems to be a perfect media for hydro or organic nutes and is certified organic so a great base for those that like to make their own teas for feeding plants.

Coco is a great idea and more environmentally friendly than peat but sure seems like a lot more work and that's a nasty four letter word to me. :)

:peace:
Click to expand...
Coco can be as simple or as difficult as you make it. The problem most people end up having with Coco is they overfeed and then end up with deficiencies and add more stuff to attempt to cure those deficiencies only making things worse. 15 years ago coco was full of salt and needed to be rinsed thoroughly. Most coco today is prewashed.
Growing good yields in coco can be simple and inexpensive. It doesn't get much easier than this: http://rollitup.org/t/keeping-it-simple-coco-blumats.954950/#post-13982827
 
OldMedUser

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Coco can be as simple or as difficult as you make it. The problem most people end up having with Coco is they overfeed and then end up with deficiencies and add more stuff to attempt to cure those deficiencies only making things worse. 15 years ago coco was full of salt and needed to be rinsed thoroughly. Most coco today is prewashed.
Growing good yields in coco can be simple and inexpensive. It doesn't get much easier than this: http://rollitup.org/t/keeping-it-simple-coco-blumats.954950/#post-13982827
Click to expand...
I'm going mainly DWC for now on and as I have 2 bales of the HP I'll be using that for moms and any other plants that need growing in pots.

I'll wander over to your blumats page and have a look.

:peace:
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
I don't see how people can say coco is full of salt, either now or in the past. It's just coco husk, right? How can this be full of salt? And exactly what kind of salt? One of the things about using these forums is bad info spreads like wildfire.
 
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