nutrient availability and soil ph in modified super soil?

bundee1

Well-Known Member
Ive been having ph problems due to overwatering and crappy soil. I mixed some better soil but since im dealing with multiple strains they all seem to have different requirements. They all seem to be recovering but still have some lingering issues. I'm still having Phosphorous and Magnesium lockouts due to PH but the new growth is looking better and I tested my runoff yesterday and it came out mid 6 (6.3 to 6.6 range according to color) My question is since I already mixed Epsom Salts and Dolomite Lime into the soil when I first made it do I need to foliar spray with Epsom salts or will the Mg and P become available when I next feed with pure water (hopefully pushing the ph slightly higher)?

My plants are 3 weeks old age wise but about 1.5 weeks into veg because of the severe stunting.

My soil mix is as follows:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/putting-together-my-soil-in-the-boondocks-hows-this.853900/#post-11142136
 

bundee1

Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying to a couple of my threads Southerner. I started the girls in shitty dollar store organic soil. They suffered because the soil compressed and I noobishly overwatered. Once I transplanted into the new soil and watered I noticed some improvement. It definitely looks like a mag and phosphorous deficiency. I watered and checked the ph and it looks better at around mid 6. I guess my question is; Will the next watering raise the ph enough to make the extra dolomite and epsom salts I mixed in when creating the soil, available to the plant, or should I foliar feed epsom salts until I see improvement?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying to a couple of my threads Southerner. I started the girls in shitty dollar store organic soil. They suffered because the soil compressed and I noobishly overwatered. Once I transplanted into the new soil and watered I noticed some improvement. It definitely looks like a mag and phosphorous deficiency. I watered and checked the ph and it looks better at around mid 6. I guess my question is; Will the next watering raise the ph enough to make the extra dolomite and epsom salts I mixed in when creating the soil, available to the plant, or should I foliar feed epsom salts until I see improvement?
I am guessing you have too much nutrients available to the plant, its hard to say without seeing pictures, but miracle grow is poison.
I never ever ph anything. the ph in an organic soil fluctuates with the microbial population and activity.
you are overthinking this I think
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying to a couple of my threads Southerner. I started the girls in shitty dollar store organic soil. They suffered because the soil compressed and I noobishly overwatered. Once I transplanted into the new soil and watered I noticed some improvement. It definitely looks like a mag and phosphorous deficiency. I watered and checked the ph and it looks better at around mid 6. I guess my question is; Will the next watering raise the ph enough to make the extra dolomite and epsom salts I mixed in when creating the soil, available to the plant, or should I foliar feed epsom salts until I see improvement?
You posted your soil recipe thread a week ago, if you mixed then and your plants are in it now, you didn't age enough,
that's my guess, and miracle grow on top of the amendments you were using will burn the bejesus out of them.
 

bundee1

Well-Known Member
As it turns out most of my grows have been organic as I've always used roots soil except this time. I've always had ph problems because of the different veg and flower nutes I use. The one time I was super diligent with ph in the super soil I grew the best flowers.

I transplanted and they seemed to perk up after a few days. I also corrected the ph to mid 6.
Still have called mag Def but the phosphorous Def is gone for the most part. I'm still waiting for them to dry out before I give them a through watering and add calmag.

The one good thing about beating plants up is you find out which ones are the hardiest. Might keep the 3 that are growing well through this unintended abuse.

Also thanks to you two for replying and giving my anxious mind a little peace.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
As it turns out most of my grows have been organic as I've always used roots soil except this time. I've always had ph problems because of the different veg and flower nutes I use. The one time I was super diligent with ph in the super soil I grew the best flowers.

I transplanted and they seemed to perk up after a few days. I also corrected the ph to mid 6.
Still have called mag Def but the phosphorous Def is gone for the most part. I'm still waiting for them to dry out before I give them a through watering and add calmag.

The one good thing about beating plants up is you find out which ones are the hardiest. Might keep the 3 that are growing well through this unintended abuse.

Also thanks to you two for replying and giving my anxious mind a little peace.
you do not need different nutrients for flowering, it's all a scam.
we need pics to help, I seriously doubt you have an issue with any deficiencies, more often than not, especially when trying new soil recipes its a matter of too much nutrients/salts etc in the soil that is fryin your plants, mag and phosphorus deficiencies take a long time to show themselves.
 

bundee1

Well-Known Member
Like stated you don't need to worry about ph in organic. Also cook your soil longer like greasemonkey kindly suggested!

-Da-Lu
I definitely need to cook the soil longer but the seedlings were looking bad so I had to transplant. 1 out of each of the 3 strains responded well to the super soil while the other ones took a slight hit. They seem to be recovering but the soil is a touch too hot.

The reason I have to use bottled flowering nutes is that I couldn't find the p and k supplements for the super soil so flower will be bottle calmag and molasses as needed.
Next run complete super soil and water and maybe a booster.
 
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