Outdoor planting for next spring advice please..

midnightoker

Well-Known Member
I have a great secluded preserve near by, NO ONE is ever in it. It's gets moderate to good sunlight and it's a very moist area. Tons of greenery that should help my little project blend in so to speak.

I have a bunch of quality seeds and I want to know if I need to do any prep work before NOW, before the winter?

Or is it simply a matter of going after the first frost, pop the moist seeds 1/2" into the ground and that's pretty much it? I'm not looking for perfection, just a decent crop with average yield...
 

South Texas

Well-Known Member
SOB, ask a wonderful question!!!! It's my downtime now. Look forward to addressing a good question. Plants will be set outside by April, during that time, it's time to prepare. Later. PM me.
 

Hodgegrown

Well-Known Member
I have a great secluded preserve near by, NO ONE is ever in it. It's gets moderate to good sunlight and it's a very moist area. Tons of greenery that should help my little project blend in so to speak.

I have a bunch of quality seeds and I want to know if I need to do any prep work before NOW, before the winter?

Or is it simply a matter of going after the first frost, pop the moist seeds 1/2" into the ground and that's pretty much it? I'm not looking for perfection, just a decent crop with average yield...
If you need to do any pruning? Do it now and remove it, don't want dead foliage laying around also if the soil stays too moist you may want to use raised beds or buckets..Good luck and good grow..:weed:
 

ford442

Well-Known Member
i would go out in early spring and cultivate the earth - dig way down and make an area of soft earth for roots to spread out in.. it made all the difference for me this year..
 

midnightoker

Well-Known Member
i would go out in early spring and cultivate the earth - dig way down and make an area of soft earth for roots to spread out in.. it made all the difference for me this year..

That's pretty simple... So just uproot the area I want to use, prepare it, drop the seeds in and that's pretty much it?

What about watering (if there's no rainfall)? and how long of a drought is too long?
 

South Texas

Well-Known Member
Check out the sunlight pattern now, where the sun travels now is where it will be traveling when it's time for spring planting. From that point on, the sun will travel north a little more each day. If plants are put too close on the south side of trees, they won't get sun during the middle of the Summer. Too close to trees on the north side of the area, they won't get morning sun for awhile. If given a choice between morning sun & evening sun, I chose the full morning sun. The ole' saying for tomatoes apply; "If there is a tree in the horizon, you have too much shade". Just take note of east & west, and try to get as much sun as possible. You may want to trim a few branches.
If the plot is a direct line between 2 major towns/cities, a lot of helos will be passing by. No more than 2 or 3 per area is the advice given. At the Cannibus Headquarters web site, they have pics of busted gro-op. Most is a LOT of plants in one place, that's why the helo spotted them. MY 25 ladies is spread out in a 1 acre area. The container is the most visible, not the plant. Each plant will need about 3/4th's gal. of water per day.
Seeds sown directly in the soil works, but for me, the small crawly things love to cut down the babies when they first come up. Adjust for 50% male, and losing half of the female due to insects & such. (40 seeds for 10 female plants). That's too much loss for me. I germ in rockwool, and then move to plastic 16 oz. cups. Early sexing one branch per plant will keep you from getting 5'tall plants in the field and then show male gender. That's a lot of work for nothing. I want my soil pre-mixed prior to digging holes, so I can immediately fill the holes when dug. All additional dirt will be placed on the down side slope to make 3 to4 inch berms, to help hold water. The rest will be strewed out so not visible. My soil will be about 60% mushroom compost, then vermiculite, perlite, (Mosser's) peat moss, and organic potting soil. Additives on hand will be Greensand, Epsom salt, stone ground cornmeal, fish emulsion, molasses, liquid seaweed & Earth Juice fert for Vegging. Due to the soil conditions, I've decided on renting a trencher to dig the holes-seriously. No more containers. Hope this helped.
 

Sjerpsy

Well-Known Member
i tried this is didn't work.I also have an area DIRECTlY behind my house...about 100 yards...that is protected wetland.Its not so much WET as is is just moist all the time.I dug a couple holes,it seemed perfect mositure....added some good soil I got for cheap and my area was prepared...I took seeds I had germinated and put them about a half inch under the soil.Nothing ever happend,what a waste of time.Soooo...from personal experience,germinate the seeds in paper towels...put them in small pots,and keep out of the direct sunlight until they sprout.I burned a lot of good seeds which I had germinated...
 

stoopy

Well-Known Member
Definately stake out your plot now, it's easier to clear brush and material you may want to remove ahead of time, you don't want to be trampling down fresh native plants while doing clearing work in the spring so do the big stuff now, if you need to dig or add soil now is a great time, you can do all the heavy labor now and when spring comes you're ready to transplant, tilling the soil now is a great idea, that way you'll break up infestive roots from indigenous plants that may invade your space, come spring your spot is prepared and you not suspicious, just germinate your seeds and let the seedlings acclimate to the direct sun beforehand, at about 2/3 weeks pop em in the ground, some may succomb to bugs but must will survive, you'll have to check them often in the beginning before they take hold but once the shoot out their roots you're fine, I'm already preparing my small plot for next year, actually 2.
 
Top