Paint floor waterproof? Grow cab build help

Hi

I’m pretty good with the diy but often I learn of products you trades ppl use that are amazing for grow room builds so I wanted to ask the experts and friendly peeps here.

I’m currently designing and building a new cabinet for growing it will measure 2x6 ft total(6ft tall), with 2x2 of it for veg:clones/ fan/ ect

I’ve just moved to a new house and so am Trying to plan well before I buy and cut the stuff

Ok so my question is about wood
It will be a simple framed area
After I build the frame I will be attaching boards and doors to it

I have the choice to use mdf or particle board and paint (budget restraints) or I could use malamine that is already white.

I’m kinda stuck wich way to go

If I use mdf and particle board I’ll need to paint so what type of paint will waterproof this stuff? Can I use a flat white primer sealer type paint? Is it gonna stop the boards getting mouldy? What am I particularly looking for in a paint?
Can I use the same paint for the floor?

I’m in Australia so brands are limited hence I’m asking about what properties to look for in the paint when I buy it


Or is the malamine a better idea?


Thanks

Humidity over time will distroy both,the melamine is ok but every screw hole or exsposed edge will wick if not sealed properly.Mdf will need a good quality bathroom paint primer.Fir plywood is cheap and it will hold screws better.I used baltic birch ply several coats of paint,its cheap where I am.

If i could only choose between the two, it would be layered particle board.

Both would need an oil/acrylic based sealant as its first coat, the mdf would likely need multiple coats of sealant.

If I had it my way, sealed & lacquered birch.

Keep in mind, what you might spend to waterproof MDF would likely cost 2-3x more compared to wood with less porosity, mdf will also require a TON of work if your after that piano gloss shine.

Sheet metal. Stainless or aluminum.

If you must use wood then it could be protected by a layer of poly, thick poly. Wrap it so there is no way water can get at a board.

Hey thanks for the answers

So sounds like from my options I’d go with the malamime particle board and will be getting the iron on edging stuff and sealing all the screw holes with pva

But sheet metal is def smth to look into

If I go that way should I use metal for the frame or smth else altogether? (I’m not welding so it will have to be a frame and screw job)

Also just checked and the prices for aluminium is way too much and the steel is corrugated like for roofs...dunno?

Is there a keyword I should use to search?

For the floor try and find a plastic tray,4x2 should be easy.Attach a bulkhead for a drain.walls then can be melamine.

So a 2x2 on the veg side and 2x4 tray on the flower side.Buy the trays first they come in wierd sizes.

Oh no

Renfro said:

Sheet metal. Stainless or aluminum.

If you must use wood then it could be protected by a layer of poly, thick poly. Wrap it so there is no way water can get at a board.

Click to expand...

Oh no now u have sent me down the rabbit hole in th roofing section

How about polycarbonate sheets?

Might work if you can glue them well enough.

I hear u about the paint costing as much as better wood.
metal sheets that are flat seem to be spendy as well

If I did decide to go with wood what alternative would u suggest?

I’ve looked at the flooring and skirting board stuff that sorta clicks together
Comes primed seems affordable

Or ?

I've got a wooden floor in my cab. I put mutiple coats of high gloss paint ( the higher the gloss, the harder the finish) and then contact paper over the top. Make sure to caulk any seams.Saucers under my pots and I've has zero problems. A rotted/cab floor has never once been a concern.

Paint with gloss latex paint to seal the wood and put https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

Make it like you would a wet room floor, chipboard with vinyl glued down with contact adhesive.

Look into a product called Drylok! It's used to waterproof basements.

My 2c if you would like...

Can it be wider than 600 or does it have to fit in a hole in the wall?


I know the only review for it says it's very flimsy and that a hinge came off "straight away" but I've been using a very similar model for a few years and it's still very solid. Though mine is a different brand, it has exact same hinges and is made of the same stuff, it just has the fixed shelf halfway up instead which is handy for having it split into veg and bloom but that one is still primo, you could just get a spade bit and drill a bunch of holes in the fixed shelf before installing, then stick your carbon filter in the top section and exhaust it out the back, poke some holes in the bottom of the back wall and make a light trap that mounts to the back, hang your light and a circulation fan from the rail, screw a lock to the front to stop any prying eyes, farrrrk all that waterproofing fuckaround clusterfuck nightmare and just use pots WITH SAUCERS AND DON'T LEAVE PUDDLES OF WATER ON THE FLOOR... (the air circulating through the thing keeping it at a normal RH dries up any foliar overspray on the walls and spills on the floor that have had the majority wiped up). There is absolutely nothing to worry about in terms of porous wooden boards and humidity or mould as long as you're not a complete caveman and leave puddles of shit and piles of dead leaves all over the place.

I've abused the shit out of mine, trying to carry it from room to room by myself and then just manhandling it when it's too heavy and awkward and I look like this guy but it's held up to my abuse very well.

I got some pics if you wanna see them.

weed-whacker said:

I hear u about the paint costing as much as better wood.
metal sheets that are flat seem to be spendy as well

If I did decide to go with wood what alternative would u suggest?

I’ve looked at the flooring and skirting board stuff that sorta clicks together
Comes primed seems affordable

Or ?

Click to expand...

if your set on wood, Baltic birch with a few coats of marine grade varnish or fiberglass resin has always been my cheapest solution, white oak or cedar will last even longer and only needs a coat or two but is overkill if indoor.

Mdf will swell and crack from the humidity alone so stay away from that unless you feel like dropping some cash and time on sealing it up.

Cheapest way.plastic over dimensional wood frame.heck a trip to some garbage bins around new construction will have all you need.

Okay so before I wrote my last post I had a link to an even cheaper ($99) wardrobe which is the same as the one I linked but without the drawers. It seems that in the time between me finding that link and writing my lengthy spiel, Bunnings no longer offers that particular cupboard sans drawers, but you may still find one at your local if they haven't sold out...

Nevertheless, the cupboard in the link I gave you could still be very useful, in fact you could make it work to your advantage..

You could either just make do with the shorter height and use the drawers for something else, or if you're anything like me you'll cut out most of the floor of the main chamber, being careful not to go through any screws, and leaving enough of it to still be a bracing element like it was designed to do, fix the 2 drawers together on the inside so that all 4 rails are bearing weight, cut out pretty much all of the bottom of the top drawer, then have a rolling platform for your plants. Might be a bit heavy though but hey never know until you try..

Mitchician said:

Okay so before I wrote my last post I had a link to an even cheaper ($99) wardrobe which is the same as the one I linked but without the drawers. It seems that in the time between me finding that link and writing my lengthy spiel, Bunnings no longer offers that particular cupboard sans drawers, but you may still find one at your local if they haven't sold out...

Nevertheless, the cupboard in the link I gave you could still be very useful, in fact you could make it work to your advantage..

You could either just make do with the shorter height and use the drawers for something else, or if you're anything like me you'll cut out most of the floor of the main chamber, being careful not to go through any screws, and leaving enough of it to still be a bracing element like it was designed to do, fix the 2 drawers together on the inside so that all 4 rails are bearing weight, cut out pretty much all of the bottom of the top drawer, then have a rolling platform for your plants. Might be a bit heavy though but hey never know until you try..

Click to expand...

Mate

I have that one lol
It’s what I’ve been using but am expanding to a larger area

180cmx64cm(w x d) and 180 cm tall is the exact size I can use hence 2x6 foot for our friends across the pond


However your comment has me thinking I’ll just use some of the malamine particle board and make it wider

Cheers ill
Post some pics of my blueprints in a bit

Ok so I’ve done a sketch up just to figure out what bits I need

I’m going with the malamine particle board(16mm thick for the doors)



Do u guys think that 3mm thick malamine mdf will block light or will I have to use the thick stuff all over?

I’m dealing with spider mites on my mother’s as I’ve kept them outside during the move

So will build next week