Plz help! 1st dwc

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Cannalove303

Member
Hey guys, just noticed yesterday that the plant is barely growing and today starting to get yellow spots randomly.

I just changed the res out 2 days ago and the ph spiked to 6.7. I lowered it. there has been no activity so I just changed the res again to get the ppm from 500 to 270. Plants were not showing any burning. (Over fed) but I did raise it so I just put it back to where it was.

Current ppm is 270
Res temp is 69 f
Temp is 30 celcius
Humidity is low, 20 to 30 percent max
Using current culture feed chart
Tap water ppm is 150 raised to 200 with cal mag, it was at 300
Using 2ml per gallon of uc roots
I did 4ml of veg a and b

I dont know what it could be I already took off 2 lower leaves(first real single leaves)

And now it starting on the other ones.
Any help or advice would greatly be appreciated, also if there is anyone that uses these nutrients that can give any advice, plant is in its 3rd week approaching 4. Again this is more first time and I am just experimenting with a nag seed before I put the good seed in.thanks so much and also look at all pics as some show the problem better then others!
 

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Cannalove303

Member
These are the roots, not many long but there about 20 just poking out that are starting. I thought it was root rot but no smell no slimey stuff. I used root excelurator gold before as well which I stopped using. I'm pretty sure this is what cause the color change in the roots .
 

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2WorldsFrog

2WorldsFrog

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Tap water can cause a cornucopia of issues. I always suggest buying an RO system so you know exactly what's going Into your solution
Click to expand...
I gotta think the tap water is at the root of what's going on here.
The nutrients you're using suggest starting with 0-20ppm water and that's probably what the ppm's on the feed chart are going by. Some feed charts give exaggerated amounts just to sell more jugs, but I think the recipe these guys give is probably right where is should be. So if the chart says 300ppm for week 3 (500scale) it probably means 300ppm of nutes not 150ppm of nutes and 150ppm of whatever's in the tap water. Know what I mean?
I picked up a $50 3 stage ro filter on the 'zon that has turned out about 30 gal/week for a year now and it still takes the tap down to 4ppm from the 150ppm it starts at. A worthy investment for sure. Just don't get anything that deionizes because it makes standard ppm/ph meters useless.
The order you mix nutes in can lock out certain things that would create a ph and deficiency situation too.
I'd say get an RO filter, follow the feed chart, and smoke fat joints.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
2WorldsFrog said:
I gotta think the tap water is at the root of what's going on here.
The nutrients you're using suggest starting with 0-20ppm water and that's probably what the ppm's on the feed chart are going by. Some feed charts give exaggerated amounts just to sell more jugs, but I think the recipe these guys give is probably right where is should be. So if the chart says 300ppm for week 3 (500scale) it probably means 300ppm of nutes not 150ppm of nutes and 150ppm of whatever's in the tap water. Know what I mean?
I picked up a $50 3 stage ro filter on the 'zon that has turned out about 30 gal/week for a year now and it still takes the tap down to 4ppm from the 150ppm it starts at. A worthy investment for sure. Just don't get anything that deionizes because it makes standard ppm/ph meters useless.
The order you mix nutes in can lock out certain things that would create a ph and deficiency situation too.
I'd say get an RO filter, follow the feed chart, and smoke fat joints.
Click to expand...
Whirlpool WHER25 IS the go to cheap AF RO system.
 
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Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Ok look up VPD but don't go by the shitty online charts I won't get into why at this point I'm only saying that so you can understand the impact of low humidity. Very low humidity in a plant that young will cause it to slow and even stop transpirtation. It creates a lot of stress on the root zone. Calcium is passively taken up and usually a calcium deficiency can be directly linked to respiration.

I do see some happy white roots bit also some browning ones. Did you have it out of the container for a while at one point?

In your case you have 150ppm tap water. There is no need for cal mag and 150ppm is a good starting point. There is nothing wrong with using tap water at that ppm. We can have that disct if we need to.

If you ask me there is just a bit to much demand on the roots as the plant grows and has a bigger root system it will handle it better. If you can try to get the humidity up to 60-65. They don't look bad but may just be a bit slower.

Stop adding cal mag to that water if your going to add it then max 1/4 dose to much calcium can lock out some micros.

Use straight tap and add 300ppm of nutrients. Make sure the leafs get some airflow but no so much they are flapping around just a bit will do
 
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