PM wash

DaleRoberts

Well-Known Member
Pm is not a systemic fungal disease. Eagle 20 is a systemic fungicide which means it is xylem/phloem mobile through out the plant and protects old and new tissue because of this. PM does not spread though out the plant via the xylem/phloem only superficially on the leaf surface. There are fungi that are systemic in plants, both parasitic and beneficial, but there are no known Erysiphales spp. that are systemic. PM starts first by spores, in our case conidia, that germinate on the leaf surface. Mycelium spreads across the leaf surface and inserts cell structures through the epidermis of the plant called haustoria. These cells sap nutrition from the plant and is the reason you see yellow spots after its been "washed" away by PM wash. This may be where the stoner misconception of "systemic" comes from. Even though the haustoria is inside the plant the organism itself does not emerge nor can it survive/reproduce inside of the plant, it needs its reproductive and vegetative structures that exist only on the leaf surface. PM is considers an obligate biotroph.

PM is very difficult to fully eradicate from an indoor environment and is another reason I think a lot of people think it is systemic. Its hard to ensure that all conidia have been destroyed in the environment and they cause reinfection if they are not. When you see a spot of PM on a plant you are actually looking at millions of tiny conidia stacked up in chains off the leaf surface. If you see just one spot of PM anywhere on a plant you can be sure there are are shit load of spores in the environment and it will only be a few weeks before you start seeing it everywhere again.

The link Vertigo was so kind to post up is a copy of Hemp Diseases and Pests by McPartland, Rob Clark and Dave Watson (better know as Sam the Skunkman) that I sent him. If you dont own a copy I suggest you all download and take a peek. Its time to put down Jorge Cervantes and Ed Rosenthols "Grow Bible" and step out of the stoner misinfo soup these forums seem to cook up. One of the first things you may notice if you go to the PM section is that there are actually two species of fungi that attack cannabis as "Powdery Mildew" which is a catch all for thousands of species that cause the same disease. Interestingly enough one is able to be controlled via the environment(RH and Temp) where as the other can germinate at 0% RH and High temps. Probably why some have such great luck with a simple change of environment and a systemic treatment such as E20, Quadris, etc.

My $.02
Thanks for the info I will definitely read up on this.
 

vertigo0007

New Member
Thanks but no, burning tree is way too hairy for me. Yikes. I tried to post the link to the info because i was/an using an iPhone and that site requires flash. I dont hide behind anybody pal. Spelling errors on a mobile device, really? I was nice in the first post. Instead of looking it up and realizing his mistake the op chose to argue. Youre right, what i said was insensitive. i should have referred to it as 'cognitive impairment'.
 

HomeLessBeans

New Member
No. Powdery Mildew IS NOT SYSTEMIC.

3 words.

Know your enemy.

Homelessbeans swears by this product if i remember correctly. It did nothing for me.
Nope don't swear by it. Used it once to get some buds finished. Left an aftertaste.

Mycobutinol(Sp) eagle 20, or immunox end the problem.
 

AimAim

Well-Known Member
Can you offer up the best way to eliminate pm?
Do some reading on Bordeaux. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bordeaux_mixture

Copper Sulfate CuSO4. It's super-safe, cheap, used for decades on grapes and will knock most fungi on it's ass. Easy to find also, any decent lawn & garden store will have it. You can get it in liquid or powder, liq is probably what you would want. I've used it a lot in general gardening for mildew and it always worked well and quick. Just my opinion but no need to run out and buy expensive stuff, Bordeaux is an industry standard fungicide.
 
Copper Sulfate alone will be difficult to use and ensure eradication. It also leaves a residue that acts as a protective layer which I try and avoid. If you are going to use a copper product try Phyton 27 as it is systemic as well and will not leave a residue.

Complete eradication approach:

Once PM infected harvest is over remove all plant waste and moldy bud from the premise and do a thorough cleaning. Take clones for next round and trim moms down as much as possible. This is a good time to rejuvenate moms as well so pick the best clones and keep it as the new mother once they root and discard the old stock plant. Disinfect the entire place with Physan 20 and an atomizer/sprayer. Coat the floors, walls, ceilings, gear, every surface and crack in the facility needs to be hit included entrance and walkway surfaces. Anywhere you have been. Don't forget your air ducts. Let it dry and do it again. Treat the mother and veg stock with Eagle 20. Once plants are half way through veg (2-3 weeks) treat with a fungicide with a different mode of action if possible such as Quadris. Right before initiation of bloom(2-3 weeks after last app) hit everything with Eagle 20 again. We also spray a tea based foliar that helps as well every 2 weeks (Capulators Bene's)up to week 2 bloom. This will ensure you broke the life cycle of the fungus. The conidia can only survive in the environment without a viable plant host for 5 weeks.

This is a bit harder to do if you grow in your home as most people can only disinfect their grow area. The problem is most people walk out of this area and into the rest of the house trailing these spores everywhere with them. So no telling if you are bringing spores back into a disinfected area. Also make sure the area is well contained as eagle is nothing to joke around about spraying. Use proper application practices and dont reenter the area for 24 hours after application.
 
Physan is a better choice because its spectrum is broader and requires less contact time to disinfect. Its also pretty cheap at $16 a qt and has many uses. Its safe to use on growing plants as well. I use it to dip cuttings and keep all tools and surfaces clean. Also works great to clean cloners in between clone runs. It can also be used as a foliar as well. Physan even updated their product literature to show this. Check out the peculiar statement at the end of the hydroponics usage page for yourself!

http://www.physan.com/hydro_physan.html

However I would only use it in veg if you are not foliar feeding ACT or other beneficial microbes.

However if in a pinch bleach would work in this particular case considering the spores we are trying to eliminate.

The importance of thoroughness cannot be understated regardless of what you choose to disinfect with.
 
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