Recycling and uncertain on amounts

N

NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
Getting ready to re-amend my soil which I have had tested and I'm finalizing my plans to get things back and ready for the next run, I've purchased my inputs and have a decent idea of what I want to do combination wise and getting to a target NPK based on that last test. What I haven't pinned down is the quantity to use.

After reading up on how to get a combined NPK for the inputs I was aiming for a modest amount of a N source (both fast and slow release forms as test showed very low levels) while avoiding P inputs (per the test again) and some K inputs to bring things back into some form of balance with the very high existing P level.

I'm coming up with basically 2 cups of combined inputs for a combined NPK of 4.3-0.78-2.64 (I think) which when looked at in conjunction with my last test I think will balance it out.

This would be 2 cups for a 7 gal container which seems like a lot but that's just a tad short of 1 ft/3 so maybe not too extreme. I'm looking for some thoughts on more/less knowing less is always better.

Currently I came to that npk based on the following:

Frass (2-2-2) 1/4 cup (mainly for chitin/systemic response)
Neem (6-1-2) 1/8 cup (ipm/n source)
Karanja (4.5-0.5-1.25) 1/8 cup (ipm/n source * hard to find official npk)
Alfalfa (2.5-0.5-2.5) 1/4 cup (slow release N plus other benefits)
FeatherMeal (12-0-0) 1/4 cup (slow release N)
BloodMeal (12-0-0) 1/8 cup (mainly for early N needs while others break down)
Kelp (1-0-2) 1/2 cup (have read use more in relation to other inputs)
Langbeinite (0-0-22) 1/8 cup (mag/sulphur slow release hopefully as sulphur already high)
CrabMeal (5-3-0) 1/4 cup (mainly for chitin+ca)

There's also EWC and AncientForest being added along with some Big6 for micros and adding some basalt for the paramagnetic effects and otherwise soil improvement. A dash more biochar (charged with fish juice) and some fresh perlite most likely going in as well. The kashi' is starting it's web right now so hopefully once I lock in the amounts I'll be ready to amend next weekend.

Anyone got any thoughts/input to sway my thinking here before I pull the trigger?
 
NewGrower2011 said:
Getting ready to re-amend my soil which I have had tested and I'm finalizing my plans to get things back and ready for the next run, I've purchased my inputs and have a decent idea of what I want to do combination wise and getting to a target NPK based on that last test. What I haven't pinned down is the quantity to use.

After reading up on how to get a combined NPK for the inputs I was aiming for a modest amount of a N source (both fast and slow release forms as test showed very low levels) while avoiding P inputs (per the test again) and some K inputs to bring things back into some form of balance with the very high existing P level.

I'm coming up with basically 2 cups of combined inputs for a combined NPK of 4.3-0.78-2.64 (I think) which when looked at in conjunction with my last test I think will balance it out.

This would be 2 cups for a 7 gal container which seems like a lot but that's just a tad short of 1 ft/3 so maybe not too extreme. I'm looking for some thoughts on more/less knowing less is always better.

Currently I came to that npk based on the following:

Frass (2-2-2) 1/4 cup (mainly for chitin/systemic response)
Neem (6-1-2) 1/8 cup (ipm/n source)
Karanja (4.5-0.5-1.25) 1/8 cup (ipm/n source * hard to find official npk)
Alfalfa (2.5-0.5-2.5) 1/4 cup (slow release N plus other benefits)
FeatherMeal (12-0-0) 1/4 cup (slow release N)
BloodMeal (12-0-0) 1/8 cup (mainly for early N needs while others break down)
Kelp (1-0-2) 1/2 cup (have read use more in relation to other inputs)
Langbeinite (0-0-22) 1/8 cup (mag/sulphur slow release hopefully as sulphur already high)
CrabMeal (5-3-0) 1/4 cup (mainly for chitin+ca)

There's also EWC and AncientForest being added along with some Big6 for micros and adding some basalt for the paramagnetic effects and otherwise soil improvement. A dash more biochar (charged with fish juice) and some fresh perlite most likely going in as well. The kashi' is starting it's web right now so hopefully once I lock in the amounts I'll be ready to amend next weekend.

Anyone got any thoughts/input to sway my thinking here before I pull the trigger?
Click to expand...
Show us the test. I usually take a pic and download it... If your high in P, then you are probably low in trace minerals like Mn and Zn, sometimes iron but not often when you have rock dusts. That is what the Big 6 is for, it has everything but the iron and higher amounts of Mn. I started using azomite, greensand, and wheat bran(homemade 'kashi) for Mn inputs.

For the Nitrogen, don't go overboard because you will wreck your Brix #'s. You will have a higher brix count if you have more K than N. For cannabis, your K levels need to be 2x the suggested amount on the test. Again, greensand has K. You could also mix coco coir with peat for a K input, just make sure that it is the "washed" coir. It won't have as much sodium. Kelp also has sodium, so that is why you need different inputs. I would drop the blood meal, the alfalfa and everything else should be enough N.

High sulfur is only going to give you low Ph problems. I rinsed my soil with a waterhose after getting test results back and it will wash the sulfur away, along with N and K. Really, high sulfur usually isn't a problem like high sodium.

If you are mixing in a decent amount of 'kashi with your soil, it should age fast and you should be happy with it. Every soil test that I've had came back high in P, so I don't understand the people that use rock phosphate and bone meal type of inputs. Everyone wanted to argue with me about the Mehlich 3 test "only 10% of the shown P is available" but I was using the Soil Savvy test and it is a solubility test, it shows what is soluble. Do you know if you had a Mehlich 3 or solubility test?
 
I had posted the test in another thread earlier while I was trying to settle on what I wanted to do. It was a soil savvy test as once I realized how one focuses on available vs "in the soil" I have only used the Soil Savvy version. So all my comparisons across the last 3-4 were same test type.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/chasing-the-recycle-amend-train-again-input-welcome.987537/

I've done my amending and let things sit with the amendments all sitting with some kashi in the top layer; I finally got around to dumping that into a tub to actually mix things up properly/distribute the amendments and it had made a nice 3-4" thick layer that plopped out on it's own and then the rest came along with a little encouragement.

Now things are sitting in their 7gal smart pots with fresh BuildASoil kashi blend mixed in; After mixing thoroughly in the tubs I filled the pots half way, added some kashi and blended it a bit, then I added the rest and topped with some more kashi and blended - so a little layering going on there.

Once this sits at least another week plus I'll do a fresh test; The kit's already ordered.

I'm definitely liking what the Big6 stuff did as the prior test results show an improvement; If you don't need that iron but want micros it seems like a good choice.
 
NewGrower2011 said:
I'm definitely liking what the Big6 stuff did as the prior test results show an improvement; If you don't need that iron but want micros it seems like a good choice.
Click to expand...
Your looking good my friend!!! I would suggest Big6 for everyone that doesn't have an answer for micronutrients. I don't know if you listened to Jeremy's podcast on the Build-a-soil website, but he said that we get enough iron from basalt and kelp. Iron locks out Mn and vice versa, it's called an antagonist relationship in organic chemistry.
 
I'm considering a hydro run in between while I let things sit & age. My early runs I pushed too much nutes then I switched to these big ol' smart pots and had best results ever. Now I'm wondering was it the magic of organics or just I started getting a clue. I've got a big bottle of the Kind nutrient line and bought some coco to try a small run since I need to use that up anyhow - it's getting a bit old as I bought it around 2 years ago and hate to waste it. Will be a good exercise for comparison since using same strains as what I did in soil (twice).
 
I do think my S excess comes from the 'food' they use in the Photo+ for the bacteria; I was a bit liberal as I thought it was just microbes not realizing it had 'food' that would contribute like that. At least highly suspect without a better explanation.
 
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