Rootbound?

Okay, recently my plants leaves (most of them) have started to curl down, a couple have twisted at the end slightly and some have yellow spots on. I cannot get anyv pictures up yet as i havent got the lead for my camera. but what i can say is that the plant was rootbound however i have repotted it today. could this be the reason that the plant is like this at the moment? im not to sure but i think i had this with the last one and that was rootbound too. is this some of the symptoms of a rootbound plant or do they normally have different signs?

root bound is over rated. you have ph issues id say with twisting leaves and deff`s.

i've checked the ph. its around about 7

ya to high. what is the mjedium..soil or soiless or hydro, all have their own ph needs and never is it at 7/. usulay never above 6.4 for best food uptakes in any sort of medium.

i'm using biobizz all mix- thats at 6.5. thing is ive never had a problem with the ph being like this before, it was at that all through the last grow. im using a ph run off testing kit so im guessing by the colour. its kind of a light green though i think (inbetween 6.5 and 7)

ok well the medium may be at that ph as new but as soon as you hit with food or water its not anymore,.or keep to wet. youve been lucky in the past then for not using ph. ph test kits for run off with coliyur charts dont work at all. cant see true colour when its not clear. those are for pools not gardens, and dont get near tight enough even with water for this growing stuff. want to keep with a .2 each time and they cant read that tight
and dont be fooled by the term ph buffered soil. it dont mean you dont need to ph. means the lime in it helps a bit to keep it from moving up or down to fast is all. not using the rioght ph is a waste of food as it strugles to eat if its not in right range. you should be feeding and watering at 6.3 and the run off always maintained in the mid 6 range

cheers for the help mate, i have been using tap water that hasnt been left to sit or been boiled to get rid of the chlorine. i do have some cannaflush, would this help with the ph or anything as it'd flush the nutes right?

dont need anything to repair the ph but water set tp the right ph to begin with, thats what the lime in the mix does for us just keep pouring through till its running out at about mid 6 for pH.
should always at least leave the water out over night for the chlorine or it kills off the microbial life. but most cities now use chloramines and you need a kdf filter to remove that. it also helps stabilize the pH better
all those flush agents are a crock of poo sale crap

i dont actually have anything to adjust ph yet, dont have something that can test the ph of the water either. with my previous grow i had some similar problems and started to let the water sit and the problem went away. should i just make sure i boil the water each time i feed now and keep an eye on the plant for 3-4 days?

id buy a 20 buk pen at least. youll never regret that expense. will save a world of cost on foods alone and pay it off right away, no need to boil water ever. just let it sit out
most nute co will make the ph right if used at the right feed levels. can use lemon to lower pH. some use baking soda but tis the wrong kind of bi-carbinate for us, it kills the microbes also. use food to lower...like bloom food if have niothing else till oyu can get real solutions

yeh i'll deffinately be getting a ph pen. im using hesi tnt complex at the moment at the recommended levels. when you say "most nute co" do you mean for example hesi would correct the ph? sorry i didnt really understand. i do have bio bloom and top max if theyre any good? i'll have to get out tomorrow to get myself a lemon for now!

not if your mixin companies foods. not recomended. unless you know what is in it and nobody but us nute co guys know everything that is in any co bottles. more to it than whats on the label. and having to much of 1 elemsnt may block others so may cause deff`s

ok so for an eg my nutes when i mix at the right ppm levles my ph is just about right and at full feed dont even need any ph adjustments. all going to depend on whats in them at what levels
dont know enough on hesi to say if it will be ok.
i think you said you had a liquid deal...use it till you get a real pen. if i miss read then ignore that...lol. loose track of who has what sometimes

so are you trying to say i should reduce the strength of nutes i feed my plant to see if thats part of the problem? as im going by the strength ratio that hesi are recommending. yeh ive got a liquid ph tester i'l try and stick with that for now! i'm only using hesi at the moment by the way

no im not sayin back off on nutes. sometimes i have issues getting whats in my heasd to words on here....lol...musdt be the cloud of smoke...lol
start of by testing the raw water for the ph. being clear the liquid ones will be fine. its once we add nuites that are coloured it throws off the real reading. is like mixing 2 colours together we get a 3rd colour so its not accurate. will be close but not accurate as we need to be.

if you test the water for ph then list me thew n/p/k on bottles used i may be able to see if it would ballance

okay... testing just the water gives a dark blue (ph 8 or maybe more) the results from the nutrients on its own (incase you need to know) is a red colour which is about a ph of 4. however i think that the ph of the nutes on its own is wrong because it was two colours mixing (yellow (colour of nutes) + blue (colour of the testing kit)) and the water and nutrients mixed up together (2Litres) gives off a light green (6.5)

The hesi nutes dont really have a colour when diluted but before diluting with water its yellow.

The listed nutrients on the bottle are:
"nirtogen N3% urea, phosphorus 2,3% P(2)0(5), potassium 3,1% k(2)0, other: magnesium, calcium, sulphate and complex-bound trace elements iron, magnese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, iodine and colbat, plus vitamins B1, B2, B3, plant sugars and amino acids."

Thats exactly how it appears on the bottle. i thought id write it out how its printed just incase i missed anything important. by the way the numbers in the brackets are the little numbers like you see on square numbers in maths lol! Underneath whats in the bottle is shown: "EC NPK fertilizer 3+2+3

cheers for the help again!

hu..only uses eurea. usulay more than 1 form of nitro is used. ok so you could try and add some foods high in postassium to lower the pH to the 6.3. let it sit for about 45 min and recheck again. if same colour use it. you also want the mix to be about 68 degree to read true pH numbers. a couple degree of and its not true anymore

thanks, will check again in 45 mins. how am i going to know if the temps are a couple of degrees off as i havent got a thermometer? i ran the water out of a hot tap and last i checked i think the water was warm.

dont ever use hot tank wayer. fulkl of bad shit sititng in the bottom of an old rusty tank. just leave it in thew room to be used in. and down the road buy a 2 buk aquarium thermo