Same strain (WW), 1 slower???? WTF?

I have 2 white widow max plants that look completely different. The leaves look exact, but the growth is different. Is this normal? One, (pic1) dark green, showing beginning stages of flowering. The other (pic 2), light lime green, not as many flowers, not as much foliage. they're both 13 days into flower. I've been feeding them FF Tiger Bloom in conjunction with FF Grow Big. Results are great. I am very embarrassed about this but, I don't have a ph tester which I will buy one Thursday when I get paid. Maybe the second one is experiencing nute lockout? Then look at this 3rd pic, has anyone seen this color? The photo is less than great but in person the leaves are almost black. Kinda wierd?? (FI Strain) Anyone take a crack at this?? Thanks!
Ohh also I'm in 3 gallon containers, since I'm flowering would it stress my plants to repot them into 5 gallon containers? I feel it would but, what do I know?
Photos......

Anyone out there????

Someone, anyone??? I'll +REP YOU!

303 said:

I have 2 white widow max plants that look completely different. The leaves look exact, but the growth is different. Is this normal? One, (pic1) dark green, showing beginning stages of flowering. The other (pic 2), light lime green, not as many flowers, not as much foliage. they're both 13 days into flower. I've been feeding them FF Tiger Bloom in conjunction with FF Grow Big. Results are great. I am very embarrassed about this but, I don't have a ph tester which I will buy one Thursday when I get paid. Maybe the second one is experiencing nute lockout? Then look at this 3rd pic, has anyone seen this color? The photo is less than great but in person the leaves are almost black. Kinda wierd?? (FI Strain) Anyone take a crack at this?? Thanks!
Ohh also I'm in 3 gallon containers, since I'm flowering would it stress my plants to repot them into 5 gallon containers? I feel it would but, what do I know?
Photos......

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Even within a specific strain you can come across many different "pheno" types because of it being a hybrid. I would just treat each one of them according too thier specific needs. I would not worry much at this point. They all look pretty healty in my opinion. Also you can repot but you will set things back like 2 weeks and increase your rick of hermis. 3 gal. containers are what I use the most, they can support a well maintained plant without much problems.

cowboylogic said:

Even within a specific strain you can come across many different "pheno" types because of it being a hybrid. I would just treat one of them according too thier specific needs. I would not worry much at this point. They all look pretty healty in my opinion.

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So its normal for one to thrive more than the other even though they're the same strain?? I mean that first photo, the flowers are much more abundant the the second photo...

@ this point I agree w/ cowboy

jgreenbeast said:

@ this point I agree w/ cowboy

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Thanks, guess I can stop over thinking this... Its mindfucking me. I guess I just was hoping for them to be on the same page as far as flowering. I wanted to yank them at the same time, but hey you can't change nature.

Almost looks like this... beginning stages, not as severe though...
Zinc (Zn)
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Zinc Deficiencies:
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients, lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.


Figure 18

Zinc Toxicity:
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.

No brother you cant! But I bet they will all finish pretty close to each other, no worries. And I doubt you will have to vary their care much at all. They look great, keep up the good work!

303 said:

Almost looks like this... beginning stages, not as severe though...
Zinc (Zn)
Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Zinc Deficiencies:
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients, lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.

Figure 18

Zinc Toxicity:
Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.

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Its hard to be for sure from pics, but I dont think that is your problem. But for some peace of mind you can add some calmag at 1/4 the directions or some blackstrap molasses at the rate of 2-3 tsp per gallon of water. Speaking of water, what is its ph? Is it R/O? Well or tap?

cowboylogic said:

Its hard to be for sure from pics, but I dont think that is your problem. But for some peace of mind you can add some calmag at 1/4 the directions or some blackstrap molasses at the rate of 2-3 tsp per gallon of water. Speaking of water, what is its ph? Is it R/O? Well or tap?

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See, I don't have a ph meter, (fucking first timers)... Anyway I'm purchasing one immediately, and I'm using tap water. Our tap water where I live is drinkable out the faucet. I assume its drinkable for my plants. The calmag, available at grow shops? Thanks +REP

Do you fill your water jugs and let them set with the lids open in the growroom for 24-48 hrs before watering. If not you should. CalMag can be found at most hydroshops. Or you could just get some epsoms salts, 2 tsp per gallon works good to start. Also dont forget about the blackstrap. It is a wonderful thing your plants and soil will love.

cowboylogic said:

Do you fill your water jugs and let them set with the lids open in the growroom for 24-48 hrs before watering. If not you should. CalMag can be found at most hydroshops. Or you could just get some epsoms salts, 2 tsp per gallon works good to start. Also dont forget about the blackstrap. It is a wonderful thing your plants and soil will love.

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I don't let water sit before water, what is beneficial to this? Chemicals released, meaning better ph? Not sure what blackstrap is either, you kinda lost me. But thanks for the info. I googled blackstrap and its some kind of molasses? I know the simples, not very advanced, (obviosly).

PH of water in our watertable is about 7.5. Your nutes should be buffering it pretty well (to the 6.5 range). Letting water sit allows chlorine time to evap. I don't do this. I run tap water over my hand as i fill the jug to evap.

Those plants look pretty good overall. Try to relax, bro.

Im not a molasses guy as it is a sugar and invites pests but ive seen it used in organic ops. Once you get nasty bacteria going you will really have some PH trouble. To each thier own .

doogleef said:

PH of water in our watertable is about 7.5. Your nutes should be buffering it pretty well (to the 6.5 range). Letting water sit allows chlorine time to evap. I don't do this. I run tap water over my hand as i fill the jug to evap.

Those plants look pretty good overall. Try to relax, bro.

Im not a molasses guy as it is a sugar and invites pests but ive seen it used in organic ops. Once you get nasty bacteria going you will really have some PH trouble. To each thier own .

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If you go to splashing it all over the place, I agree, will draw bugs.
Mix it light and water right. Your soil and plans will love you. The soil is the starting point. The micros eat the suger, break down nutes, attached them selves to the roots, in turn make the surface of the roots bigger for better intake, plant likes it.

i agree with them.. and also the ww strain has darker fan leaves.
but then again it's all about genetics.