Sealed room AC sizing
- Thread starter firsttimeARE
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firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
I run hydro so this will likely not be the case. I plan on using a dehumidifier
Yes sorry that’s what I meant, and trust me it works well, I’d be way undersized if I had tried that 3.41 equation.
If you have the proper amount of plant mass to max out your lights and ac there is no way a mini spit alone is gonna take care of the dehumidification. My mini split is maxed out (meaning it’s running full blast the whole time lights are on) and I still need 4 -70 pint units. And could use more. I’m thinking of getting the Anden 310 or a large quest unit for each room.
DoubleAtotheRON
Well-Known Member
Mini splits do make great dehumidifiers, I’ve been flipping mine to “dry” mode during lights out, and can get down to 52% at night. I do use 3 other dehuyes, but without putting it in dry mode, I can’t get there. All of these factors are going to depend on what phase you’re in, the amount of biomass you got going,etc. But always get more than you think you’re going to need.
redi jedi
Well-Known Member
Are all mini splits inverter style?
If your going with cheap residential splits or commercial series makes a difference.
kingromano
Well-Known Member
how is the climate outdoor year round ? more hot or cool where you live ?
it makes a big difference when sizing air cons
also how is insulated the room
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
No they arent. But the one im getting is. Im going with top of the line M Series Hyper Heat with H2i inverter tech.
Ill have to talk to the Mitsubishi specialist at my local distributor. Used to work with him so will be easy to get answers.
The 6k unit is rated at 6k but has a max of 9k and min. of 1.8k not sure how that works if the inverter goes to overdrive or what.
If thats the case the 9k could cool much higher.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
More cool. Summers get some 100F days but not many. Mostly 80-90F days during the summer. I live in Massachusetts
This is in a basement. The walls are insulated on all sides. This is corner room so 2 walls are concrete half walls and then 2x6 construction insulated. Not sure the R value. The 2 interior walls are insulated 2x4 construction. Unsure of the R value. But the rest of the basement will be air conditioned as well. Just on a different zone. So probably be kept 68-72F.
Theres no ceiling insulation above. But above will be air conditioned 68-72F.
Theres a 100w air pump, 100w scrubbing fan, 50w circulating fans, 400w dehumidifier and 1360w LED (not that the type matters) and this is true wattage measured with a kilawatt meter.
Outside rhe room I have a 1/3HP chiller that draws 700w about. But thjs is outside the room.
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I think you’d have to look hard to find a mini split that’s not inverter. Last few splits I bought were generic diy units. I have bought more expensive units and had hvac guys install them. I don’t think their is really much difference other than I saved a couple grand each On install.
I for the life of me can’t find a good hvac guy so after the last bullshit I went thru with my Daikin unit, I’ve just been installing them myself.
kingromano
Well-Known Member
i would not use more than 2.5kw AC in this (9000btu)
a 3.5kw will short cycle for sure. inverter or not no matter
i would take an efficient 2.5kW inverter, panasonic toshiba mitsu ..
about your chiller ... is it dumping the calories from your solution in the room where the reservoir is ?
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
What does that mean?
kingromano
Well-Known Member
where is the heat eaxchanger of the chiller located ?
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Its all in the parts, efficiencies and warranties. You get what you pay for.
All the jobs we do have mitsubishi or daikin. Sometimes Fujitsu, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, Lennox makes their way into a spec.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
In my veg room. Its inline. I run pipes to it
It all about the people installing them in my opinion, I know if I do it it’s done right. Tired of hvac guys with no idea what they are doing. The only way I can get a warranty installing it myself is to use generic diy unit. I’ve installed several units now, there is no reason hvac guys should be charging double the price of the unit, yet that’s how almost all quotes I have gotten were figured.
I’m sure there are good hvac guys out there but I’ve had such bad experiences that it has jaded to me the profession in general. Mini splits that never stop leaking, not being able to understand weighing in refrigerant, thinking that .5 lbs is the same as 5 ounces, always telling me that I don’t know what I’m doing and that the ac are too big when in fact after install they barely kept up. 18.5k quote for 10 tons of ac, about double what it should be. Just a few reasons I’m a little wary of hvac guys and choose to do it myself.
If it wasn’t for voiding the warranty I’d just buy name brand units and install them myself.
Not to mention the arrogance, thinking that normal people can’t install hvac equipment. To the point that hvac supply stores won’t sell to the public, and from what I’ve read and heard it’s because the hvac techs threaten to not shop there if items are sold to the public. Trust me it’s not that hard to install a mini split, and more and more diy units are popping up all the time.
I actually dislike the mr cool company which is the brand of one of my units, but that unit has outperformed my old daikin unit by far.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
I work for a mechanical contractor and having people from the field install them. They are licensed journeymen so they should know what they are doing lol. Not a small time mechanical contractor either. Also buying them through my job so will be getting a great price. Waiting to get a nice 300-500k refrigeration job and using buying power.
I dont feel comfortable installing myself. Dont know how to braze and dont have the equipment lkke nitrogen tanks and vacuum pumps. And dont feel like chasing leaks.
Depending where u live 18k for 10t isnt a bad price. Im looking at a 5t for my whole house and paying close to 5k for materials and equipment.
10t system prob be 9k in material and equipment.
Our labor rate is $110/hr and on refrigeration jobs its usually 50/50 labor/equipment and mats.
Thry do make yogapipe which is flexible refrigeration piping. Might be more spendy but easier to install and less labor. Almost like pex tubing
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The diy units don’t require brazing or flares. It’s two brass fittings that screw together. Most mini splits don’t use brazing they use flare fittings, which in my opinion is the weak point on most installs. Almost all the growers I know are chasing leaks at some point or another from flare fittings.
This yogapipe you speak of sounds nice, I really wish a company would make diy line sets like that with the brass fittings on the end and flexible pipe in the middle. I’m almost certain the diy line sets would work on about any split model, you just wouldn’t have the warranty, but might be worth it if the name brand are really that much better.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Yeah we never use flared fittings. Always brazed which requires a nitrogen pressure test and purge after. Most engineers dont allow yoga pipe. Some do.
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
I just bought a 2.5t system. Hung everything myself. Hired a guy to gas it up. $2250 all in.
what I can't get over is how much a proper dehumidifer costs.
what I can't get over is how much a proper dehumidifer costs.