small white worms???are they in my soil??

UnderCoverAgentOrange

Well-Known Member
i got this dr earths organic soil on a whim at agway which is just a local garden store by garden i mean house plants and tools and such not a hydro store...but these white bastards were on a clone i took and didnt root they were all over it and now seeds i just checked on them and 6 outta ten were infested totally inside and out what is going on here
 

rabidnz

Active Member
whitefly larvae probably, i just found them too, silvery stuff on leaves and little white worms under
 

ClamDigger

Active Member
this should help (it helped me)

This topic has been done to death. From experience I can tell you that if you have an gnat infestation you need to take multiple steps in order to eradicate them completely. Fungus gnats have a 4 week life cycle; females lay hundreds of eggs in the soil, larvae live in the soil, pupate and then emerge as adults. In order to bring control you must take measures to kill not only the adults but also the eggs and/or larvae. Easiest measures you can take are using sticky traps (of all kinds) and vacuuming daily around the pots to rid yourself of as many adults as possible... then you'll need something else to kill the larvae. For that I would recommend Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis), sold at every home improvement store as Mosquito Dunks (Mosquito Bits and other Bti products are just less available). The Bti bacteria produces a toxin or larvacide that only kills a few species of insect larvae including fungus gnat and mosquito larvae. If you get the Dunks: break it in half, crush it up good or hit it with [an old] coffee grinder (that you wont use again for grinding any coffee), soak the powdered dunk in a gallon of water for 12-24 hours and then water your plants with it. Re-apply every other week.
thanks Nullis.

the other thing i have found to help is a layer of Diatomaceous Earth on top of the soil

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]YARD, GARDEN, & LANDSCAPE APPLICATIONS: DE’s minerals are great for the yard and gardens. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Apply DE to ant hills. Small ants, regardless of color, may require a few applications to completely eliminate them, as they burrow new hills elsewhere, after we cover their initial hill with DE, but if we keep at it, eventually they disappear. Big ants are eliminated within two applications of a reasonable amount of DE applied to their ant hill. Ants in trash cans can be controlled by either painting DE around the bottom of the trash can or sprinkling it dry around it. They'll go elsewhere, as they do not like walking over DE. Of course, you will need to find their home to completely eliminate them, but it will keep them away from areas you put DE. Sprinkled around the house foundation keeps new crawling insects from coming inside. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Fire ants will need regular application of DE to eliminate them, but if you continue regular applications, it will eliminate the fire ants. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]We mix food grade diatomaceous earth with water to paint our fruit tree trunks with it, like a white wash. The DE keeps ants OFF our fruit trees. 1 cup applied to ½ gallon of water works well. Be sure to stir frequently as the DE settles to the bottom. Good as a white wash for wood fencing too. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]1 to 2 cups per gallon of water can be used to apply diatomaceous earth in a backpack or hose end sprayer for problem infestations of mites, aphids, fungus problems, etc. Food grade diatomaceous earth will turn whatever you paint or spray with it white – so it may look like a “white” winter at your place. [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Food grade diatomaceous earth will not destroy earthworms, if applied to the top of the soil in worm farms and the worms are allowed to work it into the soil on their own. It is actually beneficial to the worms and compost just make sure to allow the worms to do the work and not bury them in the DE.
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more info on DE
http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/defaq.html
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jamboss

Well-Known Member
I've read a very effective way to kill them is by using hydrogen peroxide 3% at a rate of 4-1 (4 parts water 1 part peroxide) and drench your soil with it. Don't be alarmed by the fizzing it's natural and this mixture will kill the larvae on contact and provide a little boost of oxygen for your plants. I did it and it seemed to work, for the adults you must let the top of your soil dry out so they can't lay in the 1st place.
 
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