Hey everyone. So I had got my bEans probably mid-late last year. (august maybe) and I've finally planted them (in a starter right now). I've got 4 Burmese kush fem and a sensi star. I just picked up some foxfarms ocean forest and foxfarms big bloom. It says I can use this for the entire grow. Though I do plan on getting the tiger stuff when the girls begin to bud. Are the ocean forest and big bloom good choices. Also it says 4 tablespoons per gallon every other feeding. Is this safe or should I start smaller?
Startup Help
- Thread starter NuBud335
- Start date
Greather420
Active Member
I have used both of the products you have mentioned. I am running the big grow, big bloom and tiger bloom all top notch stuff. If you plan on starting the seedling in the ocean forest don't feed for at least 3 weeks. The soil is so rich with nutes and minerals it would be over kill IMO. As for the "recommended" amounts I use about half of what they say. So I use 2 Tablespoons per gallon. The Tiger Bloom uses only teaspoons so that stuff will last a long time. As far as only using the big bloom I have never tried this. Hope this can help you in some way.
Ahh this is much better. Thanks guys. I'll def bE keeping this thread alive. Yah I don't plan on feeding them nutes for a few weeks. I've checked the bag out of ffof and it says it's got enough nutes for 30 days. We are actually doing a few mediums. One with all fox farms soil. One with regular soil and the third with a mix of ff and regular. I'm hoping I havnt gotten a batch of fox farms with gnats. I've been hearing stories lately but ironically I only saw them after I got the ocean forest.
@greater. So I should definitely pick up the grow big and tiger stuff huh? I'll def do that ASAP. Thanks alot guys. I'm a complete noob but I've been reading alot. Still some things are unclear. What is lime for. What should I use to ph up and down (be simplistic. I don't know all the terms and acronyms. Please use them so I know. But clarify what it means after). I've got a ph and moisture meter 2 in 1 digital for testing the soil. I'm using pure spring water for watering that I'm pretty sure is 0 ph. I also got blood and bone meal and this fish stuff (goopy thick stuff) for the soil that is plain. We are using 10 gallon plastic tubs (the storage ones) and putting two plants a piece. With this im not quite sure how much water I give them. Any tips hints would be amazing. I'll try to get pics of the room. I'm in with two friends and we are keeping this super covert so we are still deciding if we even want pica taken of the room etc. The two strands again are burmese lush and sensi star. Any tips on these is also wonderfully appreciated. Thanks guys!!
@greater. So I should definitely pick up the grow big and tiger stuff huh? I'll def do that ASAP. Thanks alot guys. I'm a complete noob but I've been reading alot. Still some things are unclear. What is lime for. What should I use to ph up and down (be simplistic. I don't know all the terms and acronyms. Please use them so I know. But clarify what it means after). I've got a ph and moisture meter 2 in 1 digital for testing the soil. I'm using pure spring water for watering that I'm pretty sure is 0 ph. I also got blood and bone meal and this fish stuff (goopy thick stuff) for the soil that is plain. We are using 10 gallon plastic tubs (the storage ones) and putting two plants a piece. With this im not quite sure how much water I give them. Any tips hints would be amazing. I'll try to get pics of the room. I'm in with two friends and we are keeping this super covert so we are still deciding if we even want pica taken of the room etc. The two strands again are burmese lush and sensi star. Any tips on these is also wonderfully appreciated. Thanks guys!!
maps84
Well-Known Member
"Dolomite Lime." Dolomite is a good source of calcium and magnesium and can be mixed with your soil. The great thing about dolomite is it works slowly over the course of a few months. Dolomite has a neutral pH of about 7.0 and will help keep soil at the correct neutral pH range which is optimum for cannabis growth. You can buy Dolomite Lime online, but with shipping it's almost always waaaay cheaper to pick up a bag at a home improvement or gardening store such as Lowes, Home Depot, gardening centers, etc. If possible, try to get a finer grade of dolomite compared to something that is more coarse.
How to Use Dolomite Lime for Cannabis: When growing cannabis indoors, add 6-7 teaspoons of fine dolomite lime to each gallon's worth of soil. So if you're mixing enough soil to fill a 5 gallon container, you want to add 30-35 teaspoons (about 2/3 cup) of dolomite lime to the mix. Mix the dolomite lime and the dry soil thoroughly, then lightly water it with water that has been pH'ed to 6.5. After getting the soil wet, mix the soil well and wait a day or two to let the soil settle before checking the pH and adding plants. When growing in an outdoor garden, follow the dolomite lime manufacturers instructions.
The pH of your marijuana plant's root zone is very important because when the pH is too high or too low, the plant's roots will not be able to absorb nutrients properly. As a result, cannabis plants may start showing signs of nutrition deficiencies even if the nutrients are available in the growing medium. In fact, feeding your plant with the incorrect pH is one of the most common reasons that a plant is displaying a cannabis nutrient deficiency. If you water your plants with water that has been pH'ed to 6.0, and the water that comes out the bottom has a pH of 6.5, you can assume the pH of your root zone must be around 7.0, because the water that came out was 6.5, which is halfway between 6.0 and 7.0. When trying to adjust the pH of your root zone, make sure to do all changes slowly. It is actually worse for your plant to have the pH change drastically than it is for the plant to have roots in the wrong pH
note: info from growweedeasy.com
How to Use Dolomite Lime for Cannabis: When growing cannabis indoors, add 6-7 teaspoons of fine dolomite lime to each gallon's worth of soil. So if you're mixing enough soil to fill a 5 gallon container, you want to add 30-35 teaspoons (about 2/3 cup) of dolomite lime to the mix. Mix the dolomite lime and the dry soil thoroughly, then lightly water it with water that has been pH'ed to 6.5. After getting the soil wet, mix the soil well and wait a day or two to let the soil settle before checking the pH and adding plants. When growing in an outdoor garden, follow the dolomite lime manufacturers instructions.
The pH of your marijuana plant's root zone is very important because when the pH is too high or too low, the plant's roots will not be able to absorb nutrients properly. As a result, cannabis plants may start showing signs of nutrition deficiencies even if the nutrients are available in the growing medium. In fact, feeding your plant with the incorrect pH is one of the most common reasons that a plant is displaying a cannabis nutrient deficiency. If you water your plants with water that has been pH'ed to 6.0, and the water that comes out the bottom has a pH of 6.5, you can assume the pH of your root zone must be around 7.0, because the water that came out was 6.5, which is halfway between 6.0 and 7.0. When trying to adjust the pH of your root zone, make sure to do all changes slowly. It is actually worse for your plant to have the pH change drastically than it is for the plant to have roots in the wrong pH
note: info from growweedeasy.com
Greather420
Active Member
Glad we could help! By all means we are no experts but have learned a few thing from this forum and from past experience. That sucks!! I hope you don't have any pest problems. We have had past problems with pest at a old grow site(not our current
) and if preventive measures are not taken than this will lead to MAJOR PROBLEMS down the line so be careful. We obtained pest from moving soil potted plants from indoors to outdoors during peak pest season which anyone in CA can tell you is a BIG problem in the spring and summer. If the soil you are using was stored outside for a while there is a chance that the pest were in the soil. For the ph adjustment I use store bought ph up and ph down. You can purchase these in any hydro store or I like E-bay a lot I get most of my stuff off there.
The digital meter you have sounds nice and should do the trick for helping maintain you ph levels I believe you should keep soil ph around 6.5 I my be wrong but is what I hear a lot.
I like the 2 plants per 10 gallon tub idea. Your plants will grow big with that much space and for amount of water maybe water lightly until you see drainage coming from the bottom. Be sure not to over water and use nutes EVERY OTHER watering.
) and if preventive measures are not taken than this will lead to MAJOR PROBLEMS down the line so be careful. We obtained pest from moving soil potted plants from indoors to outdoors during peak pest season which anyone in CA can tell you is a BIG problem in the spring and summer. If the soil you are using was stored outside for a while there is a chance that the pest were in the soil. For the ph adjustment I use store bought ph up and ph down. You can purchase these in any hydro store or I like E-bay a lot I get most of my stuff off there. The digital meter you have sounds nice and should do the trick for helping maintain you ph levels I believe you should keep soil ph around 6.5 I my be wrong but is what I hear a lot.
I like the 2 plants per 10 gallon tub idea. Your plants will grow big with that much space and for amount of water maybe water lightly until you see drainage coming from the bottom. Be sure not to over water and use nutes EVERY OTHER watering.
Greather420
Active Member
That is good info! We are not familiar with the usage of lime so thanks for the info! The ph info is also detailed and very accurate!
maps84
Well-Known Member
I have more on PH very very good info if you wanna do a little reading.
FROM "greenmanspage.com/guides/phfacts" Credit to them
Soil PH Facts
pH affects plant growth and nutrient availability. pH can affect the availability of nutrients. pH can affect the absorption of nutrients by plant roots pH values above 7.5 cause iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron ions to be less available to plants. pH values below 6 cause the solubility of phosphoric acid, calcium and magnesium to drop. pH values between 3 and 5 and temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius encourage the development of fungal diseases.
Why pH Varies The ratio in uptake of anions (negatively charged nutrients) and cations (positively charged nutrients) by plants may cause substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess of anion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. As nitrogen (an element required in large quantities for healthy plant growth) may be supplied either as a cation (ammonium - NH4+) or an anion (nitrate - NO3), the ratio of these two forms of nitrogen in the nutrient solution can have large effects on both the rate and direction of pH changes with time. This shift in pH can be surprisingly fast. Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease ( pH rises )
Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius
In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.
Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .
Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.
Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6.
FROM "greenmanspage.com/guides/phfacts" Credit to them
Soil PH Facts
pH affects plant growth and nutrient availability. pH can affect the availability of nutrients. pH can affect the absorption of nutrients by plant roots pH values above 7.5 cause iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron ions to be less available to plants. pH values below 6 cause the solubility of phosphoric acid, calcium and magnesium to drop. pH values between 3 and 5 and temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius encourage the development of fungal diseases.
Why pH Varies The ratio in uptake of anions (negatively charged nutrients) and cations (positively charged nutrients) by plants may cause substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess of anion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. As nitrogen (an element required in large quantities for healthy plant growth) may be supplied either as a cation (ammonium - NH4+) or an anion (nitrate - NO3), the ratio of these two forms of nitrogen in the nutrient solution can have large effects on both the rate and direction of pH changes with time. This shift in pH can be surprisingly fast. Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease ( pH rises )
Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius
In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.
Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .
Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.
Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6.
You guys are amazing. I'm currently heading back to the store I get my supplies from. I'm thinking I'll need another bag of ffof and maybe some ph up and down. I'm gonna wait on the grow big and tiger bloom. I'll get paid again before the 30 days is up in the fox farms. So even in the beginning with the soil so rich I should always get my ph o my water to 6.5?
A little update. I grabbed another bag of ffof and a bottle of pond care ph up. Is this stuff ok. Is any ph adjuster a ph adjuster? or is it diff for soil or pond water. This ones directions are for raising it for pond water but I suspect it does the same thing for whatever your doing with it, like raising the ph for watering the babies
Greather420
Active Member
I think that would work fine. You adjust ph of your soil thru your water so as long as you can balance the water you will be able to maintain the ph in your soil thru trial and error.
Well since I cant figure out how to upload and I dont have an account at any website. It's almost like the stem has almost died. It's turned slightly purple and has just curled down. It's still in the starter and we are transplanting tomorrow. The sensi star and the other Burmese are fine so far
