Still some slight foxtailing? pics..

Posted couple pictures a week back about some foxtailing I had, I'm 8.5 weeks into a 9-10 week flower strain.
I was told to flush with plain ph'd water and decided that because I am near the end of flower i would just continue to flush till the end. so until this point they have had 9 days on ph'd water. It cured half the plants but a couple are still quite airy / foxtailing and are taking a long time to mature. Temps and humidity are fine, plenty of air exchange / movement etc.

Is there any way I can mature / tighten these few buds up? thinking of harvesting in around 4 days.

also my leaves are still pretty green besides a few tips yellowing. is that normal for this long into a flush?

Thank you in advance..

Are the foxtails getting worse? They won't disappear once they show up. If they are getting worse then move your light back a little. Foxtails are usually caused by light stress. The ones that are swelling means they're ripening and close to finishing. The others aren't at the swell stage yet, be patient and let them finish. No plant finishes the exact same time as another, too many variables.

Let me ask you, are the ones that you claim to be swelling farther away from the lights than those that aren't?

Oh and don't harvest on a timer, be patient dude. You waited this long, you can wait till they are actually ready to harvest.

Heat is another issue with foxtailing, so is some over overfeeding.

Moving the light away reduces the canopy temps.

Some strains foxtail and there's nothing you can do about it. Some do a "good" type of foxtailing, ECSD and some sativa heavy strains do this. My avatar is a very heavy sativa pheno of Pineapple Express that can grow baseball sized buds with lovely tailing.

Not a big thing to worry about. Watch the canopy temps and move those lights up. You might drop the N a "tic" on that strain next time. That'll help too.

This is GG#4 on it's maiden "dial in" run. It's in a higher N, long running soil for heavy/landrace sativa strains. Not "bad" foxtails but, not how the plant really runs, structure wise.

This is how she runs today, in the dialed in soil (organic, home built, water only soil). This is "like" the ECSD "normal" foxing.

Thanks for your help..

Foxtails dont seem to be getting worse.
the ones further from the light seem to have matured faster and started filling out I'm guessing thats down to they avoided the heat stress.

I bought some general hydroponics Ripen today. I spoke to somebody and they said they look like it has a couple of weeks left, he said run 5ml of Ripen per 1L of ph'd water for the next 7 days and then 7 days of water flush to finish. Does anyone have any feedback on ripen also do you think i will be okay to flush the rest of the plants with it as they are still not fully ready. it is supposedly a 9-10 week strain after all.

Thank you both for all your help!

Ripstick said:

Thanks for your help..

Foxtails dont seem to be getting worse.
the ones further from the light seem to have matured faster and started filling out I'm guessing thats down to they avoided the heat stress.

I bought some general hydroponics Ripen today. I spoke to somebody and they said they look like it has a couple of weeks left, he said run 5ml of Ripen per 1L of ph'd water for the next 7 days and then 7 days of water flush to finish. Does anyone have any feedback on ripen also do you think i will be okay to flush the rest of the plants with it as they are still not fully ready. it is supposedly a 9-10 week strain after all.

Thank you both for all your help!

Click to expand...

They don't sell that shit in the US...... Why would you basically, kill off your plant early? NOT a good idea!
I ran greenhouses before. I would never use a product like that. I want the plant to finish naturally. I can see the selling point of force finishing an outdoor plant that you have, not finishing and being trapped in the cold ..... Other then that - forget that ripen shit! I can't even find out whats in it.....Leads me to believe that it's not able to be sold here for it's content.

Then again, when I look at it's NPK. Basically it's simply over using P to give an early death by P tox......I still wonder exactly what is in it and the amounts.

Secondly, Flushing is NOT going to do what you think and is actually another not good for the plant problem. Here, read this young man. "Flushing" is a MYTH...

I got asked about this in a PM by a member after seeing the disaster another thread became. He asked where to find books and papers on "flushing" and said he might try the "fade".

Here's my answer to him......I felt it needs to be seen,,,,,,again!

Your looking for post grad work. You would do better to search papers......The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)

Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......

Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)

With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds, but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...

Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!

I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.

Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...

The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!

There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)

There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.

Read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

There is nothing really wrong with your plant.

finish it out the right way.

Next run. Less N and keep the light farther away to reduce the canopy temps.. you'll be fine - NO flush and leave the gimmicky crap to those that don't grow well, yet.

How to explain this,,,,,, Canopy temp at about 88F - I use a laser temp gun for some temp taking - around 75 mid plant and 68-70 root temp. The room ambient temp is set at 71 and the placement of the thermostat was set carefully, a bit below the canopy level.....