Strange Problems on some Young Plants

Hey guys, i will appreciate if someone can give me a hand on this.

Soil Mix, PH 6-7
Water PH (Osmosis W) PH 6
No Nutes Yet (its on their first week)
Temp 75-79
Humid 60%

Night Temp: 70-72
Lighting LED 300x3W (500w reals) FullBand
1 small Fan 24/7 turning
1 small Fan 15m On / 15m Off (not at night).

Im quite new planting, but imho im doing it according all technical specifications.
I keep some PH/LIGHT/MOIST meter on each plant, to ensure plant is not overwater/dry.
Got a smart Intake/Outtake RH/Temp controller which controls the env of the tent and always keep them in good levels HOT/COLD DRY/HUMID.
About the light, the plants are getting around 10.000-12.000 LMX something very reasonable. I could low a lil the LED but i think its not really needed on this early stages of the plant.

whats up with those 3 plants ??
1) Photo1 Small cup: This one has been like this for long time.. it seems to grow two leaves very small very slow. Has been like this for almos 20 days.... but seems alive.
2) Photo1 Near small cup: This one is like this since the beginning. All new leaves and old have this white marks.
3) Photo2: This one looks healthy apparently, but the two leaves of the bottom got the tip yellow. But its not progressing. This may be a normal situation where the plant drop the leaves that does not get light ?

Thank you all for the help and i appreciate all the efforts of the people of the forum sharing knowledge.
Best Regards

Whats up.. nobody knows whats up with this plants ?... please some advice ?

the reason u did not get a answer

your reacords and method was well unflawed............very very nice detail reacord and read out (i know spelling horrible but i lite the f up so excuse me )
now u forgot some details .......
strain is it auto or is it photo
the soil mix home made/or store gotten
how big are the planters (are we looking at 1 gallons or 5 gallons) this will highly impact the size
finally how was it started strait in the pot /in a jiffy plug green house/jiffy plug in pot


as for that little one in that little pot move it.........wait 5 7 days then move it to big pot

( u are new here is some reserach results i have gotten ).......
soil is great first time rule of thumb if u are going in soil 1 gallon of soil volume equals one month of food natural in the soil (20% perlight)

air bags are great for this with the flushing and all neededlater (if u do get some at 4 gallons for 4 months go bigger do to the fact 1/2 all the way around is not used by the plant )

last bit ..............every plant every strain is different do to those small gentic changes comes from seeds......once u mastered a plant strain u like and want to keep around learn mothering/cloning and then u can get the best results sinnce u know what that plant likes

I want to know what kind of soil he's using- and why it looks packed down (is that how its naturally supposed to look?) Soil looks moist as well. The first time I tried to grow I tried buying separate mixes- killed my plants. Ever since then I stick to FFoF. Actually I use a rockwool cube- then drop them in soil. I think that's safest.

well i am working in
1 foot potting(local shop)....as in nuresey
1 foot orgaic(local shop)
2 foot local woodland
1/4 foot peat moss
5 cups perlight

given i am keeping small for frist grow first in flower other in late veggie

Well, i did not write which strain is.. because i have not it very clear by some disaster mistake seeds got mixed But are NOT auto. All are Fem from Nirvanaseeds.
The small one i know is a PPP. Yesterday, dried till die. i took it out.. roots did not extend, seed was bad from the beginning. Grow reverse.. root up, leaves down.. i had to invert it manually. Im not sure if this was good or not.. i just applied my common sense.
Soil mix from shop, (Perlite, Coco, Guano, etc) Seems a very good mix soil, stable PH, good properties.
The planters are 7.5L (2gal).
The strain started on a organic pot with the same soil of the big pot, i used this ones, because had a very good water retention and you can spot the roots trying to go out. So i moved the plants to the big pot when i started to spot roots in the bottom.

My tent is 1m x 1m x 2m tall. As you may guess.. its a very reduced space. So i cannot grow 7 plants on it in 2GAL pots. At least not this strains. From my point of view the plant seems very healthy, it have also some sense that the plant drop shaded leaves.. depending the strain.

I think max, can grow 4-5 good plants. Again.. im just a newbie so i dont know what can be the result. But im doing my best, that i can guarantee you. I have no problem on reading or studying. So before i opened this thread i did my best to spot the problem by myself... but here something that is very important is.. EXPERIENCE.

Another point is, my garden is in a country where there are NOT grow shops and import products of this kind its also not possible. So i had to deal with National products and custom made things.. it took me long time investigation to spot the correct product for this kind of flower.

About the ferts, im using this "Solitabs" and "Flowertabs" from Nirvana. Its a good way for newbies, i have some strain without the solitab, since i have not enough space for grow them all.. i keep some of them just for experiments. My idea is get the best performance from the tent and the strains.. so a plant that does not look good.. im not going to take it inside the tent for flowering.. i'll be use it for cuts/fert test/simulate situations and learn something about the behavour of the plant.

Hope to solve all the questions, next time i had to post i will try to provide more information.

Best Regards and Thanks

justugh said:

the reason u did not get a answer

your reacords and method was well unflawed............very very nice detail reacord and read out (i know spelling horrible but i lite the f up so excuse me )
now u forgot some details .......
strain is it auto or is it photo
the soil mix home made/or store gotten
how big are the planters (are we looking at 1 gallons or 5 gallons) this will highly impact the size
finally how was it started strait in the pot /in a jiffy plug green house/jiffy plug in pot


as for that little one in that little pot move it.........wait 5 7 days then move it to big pot

( u are new here is some reserach results i have gotten ).......
soil is great first time rule of thumb if u are going in soil 1 gallon of soil volume equals one month of food natural in the soil (20% perlight)

air bags are great for this with the flushing and all neededlater (if u do get some at 4 gallons for 4 months go bigger do to the fact 1/2 all the way around is not used by the plant )

last bit ..............every plant every strain is different do to those small gentic changes comes from seeds......once u mastered a plant strain u like and want to keep around learn mothering/cloning and then u can get the best results sinnce u know what that plant likes

Click to expand...

taobert said:

I want to know what kind of soil he's using- and why it looks packed down (is that how its naturally supposed to look?) Soil looks moist as well. The first time I tried to grow I tried buying separate mixes- killed my plants. Ever since then I stick to FFoF. Actually I use a rockwool cube- then drop them in soil. I think that's safest.

Click to expand...

Its not packed down, its just the sensation by the photo. Here i just made one again from its side, you can check.

Also, i put a picture of my tent for those curious people

Just to explain the tent:
1 Intractor (from AC)
2 Humidifier (Shoot directly to the intake for dissipation)
1 Fan 24/7
1 Fan 15on/15off (night off)
1 Heater (for emergency situations)
1 Controller Humid + Temp (here i got the humids and the intake) Jumps at H50% up till 67,5%. Keep tent at 24.5-25,5º C.
1 Controller Double Temp (here i got an outtake and the heater) Jumps at 21º till 23º HEATER. Outtake jumps at 27.5ºC
1 Analogic Hygrometer
1 CO2 Meter
UFO LED B:W:UV:IR for Seed and early Veg Stage
LED 300Wx3W FullBand (475W metered)
Tent 1m x 1m x 2m tall

Im planning change the Tent to something bigger for flower and keep this one for veg. But now im out of space.. so thats what i've got.
As i have the Tent, just only require replenish the Humidifier tanks and water the plants, it keeps the tent in the optimal conditions.

I have a automatic irrigation system, but for now i did not install it yet. I guess it will do better in flowering stage when the plants sucks lot of water and its completely developed.

Thanks again guys! Best Regards

got it

your light is wrong..........u are in the lower 2700/3000k range ............look at your pics u posted ......unless u are making it that color.............that is not the color u want to use on photo veggie stage

veggie stage.......5000/6500k light wave lenght ....blue light
flower/stage.......2700/3000k.............................red light


this is a photo plant getting the right is the key to grow/budding with them

right now your plant does not think there is enough time to do it thing so it gathering all it can up and going in roots to try to make it tho winter/ or not even trying just ride it out untill cold snaps

Its the soil. No doubt.

DannyBlaze said:

it's your dirt or nutes are too hot.....I just look at pic's....you don't need to write a book....

Click to expand...

Hi,

Do you use nutes in the first 2 weeks of veg ?.. Im not. I though its not needed. By the way, i put the Solitab on its place as stated in the instructions.
The soil seems to work nice for all other strains. If its the soil.. must be a deff. But i cannot identify which kind of Def act in this way.

My question is, what is the problem or deff. Its evident that i already know something is wrong when i open the thread. Thanks for your clarify.

Im not writing a book, but im not answering just to increase the "Post Reply Counts of my profile".

Thanks

I put back the UFO B:W and this current one all together. Now the tent looks more "white" and plants much more green.
Here i leave some pictures of the LEDs.


Somebody is saying the Soil, it could be. But if its the soil can be only:

A) Deficence --> What kind of def. makes this white things into the plant ?¿
B) OverWatering --> Cannot, plants will look different
C) Drying --> Cannot, plants will look different
D) PH Unbalance --> Cannot, is already on range 6.5
E) Bacteria/Fungus --> Sterilized, Cannot

Some exact information would be cool.
Thanks again guys!

justugh said:

got it

your light is wrong..........u are in the lower 2700/3000k range ............look at your pics u posted ......unless u are making it that color.............that is not the color u want to use on photo veggie stage

veggie stage.......5000/6500k light wave lenght ....blue light
flower/stage.......2700/3000k.............................red light


this is a photo plant getting the right is the key to grow/budding with them

right now your plant does not think there is enough time to do it thing so it gathering all it can up and going in roots to try to make it tho winter/ or not even trying just ride it out untill cold snaps

Click to expand...

i think i've found it. Oxygen Deficency. At night seems that temp goes low so the intake stops. I checked the CO2 meter, 1000ppm at night or even more. Im checking more later to see how up goes the levels.
Can be this the problem ? Anyone ever had a deficency like this ?

Thanks

it was your lights man

give it a week and do a height reading and pic to compare to old one too ....................and i do not care what the ppl say your note keeping and way of writing i like it makes it easier on me to figure out what is going on ...............infact i am copying it and showing it to ppl i work with when they hand me things takes awhile for me to get all the info with the way they write .........yours 5 mins and i got it ..................good job u would be great as a lab tech or as milarty

DannyBlaze said:

You wanna use sunshine mix 4 the first week with plain water then the sec ond week maybe 300 ppm of veg nutes then I think it's the 3rd week I'll put in ffof with plain water the first two waterings I'll put a video up on youtube if you want it .

Click to expand...

You did not read what i've said. I grow in a country WITHOUT GROW SHOPS, without possibility to Import Grow Shop products.
The mix im using its same as the sunshine mix 4. Here its name is "Cultivate Soil", i asked Tomatoes farmers about this soil. They completely reccomend it.

300ppm EC of Nutes is very very little, how this match with my solitabs ? will not burn the plant ?

Hey!

Thanks bro, if i really want a help. I think its need to post the total envirovment.

I found that the CO2 get on high levels during night, im installing today a fan that will blow out CO2 from down and put some fresh air from up. In this moment the temperature its not a big problem, the heater will start once the low point is reached.

Do you think VEG @ Night 1000ppm CO2 its quite high ? I think so.
I can keep 700-1000ppm during morning (lights on), without add CO2.. that im sure its a good amount of CO2 for the girls. Since they can get lot of light and i can increase maybe 1-2ºC till 28º the temperature of the tent at day and get advantage of this polluted city hehe..

I appreciate all your help guys.
UFO its already there B:W, im doing all the VEG with both LED working up and see the results
I'll keep updated this post, lets see if +O and +B:W Light solves the issue.

Some people is saying the soil or the nutes, but i dont think its any of those. I have no nutes involved yet, and the seeding was in this Soil. If balance of PH/WATER/NUTES would not be correct.. the plants will had not grow till this point, right ?...

Best Regards

justugh said:

it was your lights man

give it a week and do a height reading and pic to compare to old one too ....................and i do not care what the ppl say your note keeping and way of writing i like it makes it easier on me to figure out what is going on ...............infact i am copying it and showing it to ppl i work with when they hand me things takes awhile for me to get all the info with the way they write .........yours 5 mins and i got it ..................good job u would be great as a lab tech or as milarty

Click to expand...

hey man

plants need O at night ........the photo cylce is like this
during daylight hours the plants take in Co2 and convert it to O.........but at night time they take in O and put out bad Co2(form they can not use) .........if u can u want to drop your ppm during the night to around 150 ppm (that is outside fresh air) inside air is about 350ppm

750ppm 1000ppm is damn good i was under the impression that 1500ppm is the prefect amount with out making it toxic to us humans ..............but if u are counting the Co2 from the night (off hours) u should really flush that room

a fan is a good idea just rem not to get to much russle on the leaves (they will bend and curl called wind burn) .....if u can u want to do a air vortex (like ceiling fans they blow down the middle and suck up the walls or vise veras) .....i have a t5 going so mine is set to suck up the walls and blow down the middle ( it hits the t5 top and rolls off ).....i have it angled so it hits in the coner with the carbon filter so the bottom air is always being ejected (some of it atleast) ....and i run a intake fan to keep the air in.....it has a negitive pressure right now the out is about 5 10 cf more then the intake puts in

Hello,

I put fresh air constantly, but i live on a polluted city.. so im not adding any extra Co2. 700 is the normal.. inside the tent its around 900-1000 in the mornings heh. Im giving extra light for now. When flowering starts i'll give them some extra warm too

The problem is, the tent is small.. a lamp like this even on LED create heat. Enough heat to put the tent easily to 28-29º. So i have an intractor that puts air from the AC, and the humidifier that shuts directly to the intake. So it spreads properly into the dry air of the AC.

The city is around 28º/35H.. alter this levels to less Temp + High Humid.. requires the AC+HUMID. I cannot make negative pressure into the tent 24/7. Otherwise Humidity will drop a lot. The negative pressure starts when the tent is high on temp, so it evacuates very fast the hot air from the top.

I have two fans, they make a vortex to the wall and to the center. Both are in equidistant corners, so its easy. As far as i know, the plants does not have wind burn.
Since i put the other LED, grow is accelerating. Now i understand this of "Mastering a Plan" and understand it needs... heh each bread is a world.

Thanks again bro! keep this updated.

justugh said:

hey man

plants need O at night ........the photo cylce is like this
during daylight hours the plants take in Co2 and convert it to O.........but at night time they take in O and put out bad Co2(form they can not use) .........if u can u want to drop your ppm during the night to around 150 ppm (that is outside fresh air) inside air is about 350ppm

750ppm 1000ppm is damn good i was under the impression that 1500ppm is the prefect amount with out making it toxic to us humans ..............but if u are counting the Co2 from the night (off hours) u should really flush that room

a fan is a good idea just rem not to get to much russle on the leaves (they will bend and curl called wind burn) .....if u can u want to do a air vortex (like ceiling fans they blow down the middle and suck up the walls or vise veras) .....i have a t5 going so mine is set to suck up the walls and blow down the middle ( it hits the t5 top and rolls off ).....i have it angled so it hits in the coner with the carbon filter so the bottom air is always being ejected (some of it atleast) ....and i run a intake fan to keep the air in.....it has a negitive pressure right now the out is about 5 10 cf more then the intake puts in

Click to expand...

well u got that down
told u ppl it was his lights once we sawl that room all violet

this would be the time to decide if u are going to keep one for cloning and if u are going to top the plant (wish i did to mine first 2 )..........since u are photo u can pick the grow time this will allow top the plant 1 or 2 times and then gain 4 main colas instead of the one .....it is done by branching ......if u want more info i would look it up yourself i am just starting the work in that area but now is the time to pick ( after it has atleast 2 real sets of fan leaves the one with 5 not 3 leaves)


as for keeping neg with humity ...check into those smart bags......u know fabric has handles lets the roots breath almost impossible to over water..........they are releaseing the extra water........u basically have to water every 24/36 hours becuase the soil is dry........and if u put to much in it auto drains out just make sure u take the dish away and put a dry one down................i been using them my was steady at 50% for the last month untill today but it has been raining all day and will tomarrow too...going to 61 64 %