T5 Exclusive Grow / First Grow

This is / was my first real attempt at growing medicinal marijuana. I'm a licensed mmj patient in compliance with my states mmj program. I had done months of reading on the topic before wasting any more time and money on this venture, but I'm sure as many of you readers know by now that there is a significant difference between reading and getting your hands dirty.

My first plants were SAGE n Sour and Green Crack; both clones generously gifted to me by another licensed local patient.

The smaller of the two thumbnails is the SAGE n Sour, the larger Green Crack. These pictures were taken the day I received them.

These were given to me in soil, and my research indicated soil to be a buffer which proved in many cases to be necessary for the survival of my plants at risk of my ignorance a few times, so I continued in soil. Also, given my limited grow space, I went with T5 lights to lower the heat output and keep my electric bill down. Here's the setup:

GreenTree Growers' Blend (soil medium)
Vermicrop Vegetative Dry Fertilizer 7-4-4
Vermicrop Bloom Dry Fertilizer 3-10-5
Unsulphered Molasses (Grandma's)

Veg:
(1) 2'x4' Gorilla Lite Line Tent
(1) Gale Force 4" Inline Fan, 182 CFM
(1) Covert Carbon Filter 4" x 12", 200 CFM
(1) AgroBrite Fluorescent Grow Light T5 4FT/4 Tube

Flower:
(1) 20" 3-Speed Box Fan
(1) HydroFarm Fluorescent Grow Light T5 4FT/6 Tube

Still trying to sort out pH issues at this point.. Green Crack was kinda messed up and I hadn't quite figured out how to manage it yet.. hence the choice for ignorance-buffering soil!

My first attempt at cloning: All Green Crack

These clones were taken prematurely, though I didn't know it at the time. Taken with a 45 degree angle cut, trimmed all the leaves down (cut in half) scraped up the intended rooting end, dipped in RX Green Solutions Life Cloning Gel and planted in Root Riot peat moss root starting cubes soaked in a solution I make = 1 gal. 6.0 pH water w/ 4 drops General Hydroponics Rapid Start Rooting Enhancer. This solution is also what I use to water the clones with during the rooting process. The dome was sprayed under the lid, but the plants were never foliar fed. Kept in avg temp ~78 degrees F

5 of these 6 clones were successful.

Bought seeds from Herbies. Germinated a few using the paper towel method and my rooting solution described in post #3 and planted in Fox Farms Light Warrior Seed Starter Soil as shown in the plastic cups (below) placed the cups in the dome with my Green Crack clones @~78 degrees F. Misted the inside of the dome top w/ rooting solution.

Seed Strains:
Delahaze
Afghani Reg.
Cotton Candy
Super Lemon Haze

Germinated (4) seeds total. All were successful within 36 hours and planted in plastic cups as shown below and described above.

Five days after germination, the cups with seedlings were placed under bags and put under direct light (T5)

The SAGE n Sour was topped and the branches tied laterally over the edge of the pot.
For some reason I can't figure out, I can't rotate the last picture posted

Transplanted seedlings into 1/2 gal pots w/ GreenTree Grower's Blend:
Delahaze
Afghani Reg.
Cotton Candy
Super Lemon Haze

Successful Green Crack clones were transplanted into plastic cups w/ GreenTree Grower's Blend

OK, REALLY BAD storytelling...no one likes an absence of pictures, and there's none for nearly 30 days between the last post and now, so bear with me.

The 5 successful Green Crack clones have grown significantly as well as the rest of the plants during this 30 day period. No issues of any note to report during this time. Cuttings were taken from one of the Green Crack plants for more clones.

Below is (6) Green Crack aprox. 14 day flower
and (1) Aghani Reg. Day 1-ish (the odd duck with no pair next to it)

(6) Green Crack ~ start of week 3
(1) Afghani Reg. ~ end of week 1

Keeping T5 within 1.5" of canopy to maximize lumen intake / light usage

Additional pics, taken (3) days after the ones in the previous post

finally smartened up and gt some mylar to reflect all that lost side light
..not hung until after these pics though.

Pics shown here are of Green Crack in ~ week 5 of Flower
Afghani Reg in week 3 of flower

End of Week #6 for Green Crack
End of Week #4 for Afghani Reg.

I gave all plants in flower their last dose of dry fertilizer a few days before these pics were taken. I've also begun to use unsulphered molasses as a supplement. 1 Tbs / Gal @ 6.0 pH. I've only tried it on two of the Green Crack so as not to screw anything up this close to the end, but they seem to be responding well to it.

I've read that some people use it to aid in pre-harvest flush, but my research indicates that although molasses has proven nutrient value, it is also an effective chelating agent and should therefore be used with caution, since it is the overabundance of fertilizer in the soil and the chelated salts that a pre-harvest flush is used to rectify. Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

In any case, with the last of the fertilizers given nearly 20 days before the estimated harvest time, I plan to use the molasses as a watered down replacement for the top dressing fertilizer, gradually decreasing use until harvest. Thoughts?

Did you start from 12/12?

Looks good. Don't worry about bags over seedlings. Not good for them.

420noobie said:

Did you start from 12/12?

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yeah, timing mentioned in my posts are measured from the 12/12 flip

I call it "Day 0"

whitebb2727 said:

Looks good. Don't worry about bags over seedlings. Not good for them.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

I only use the bags to ween seedlings / clones out of the humidity dome. They allow me to put them under direct light while maintaining higher humidity to keep 'em from drooping. The bags are vented every 12 hours, and I only use them for the first 2-3 days after they leave the dome.

kindasobr said:

Thanks!

I only use the bags to ween seedlings / clones out of the humidity dome. They allow me to put them under direct light while maintaining higher humidity to keep 'em from drooping. The bags are vented every 12 hours, and I only use them for the first 2-3 days after they leave the dome.

Click to expand...

I can see using them on clones. The seedlings will be fi e without them. Let them pop and harden off.

whitebb2727 said:

I can see using them on clones. The seedlings will be fi e without them. Let them pop and harden off.

Click to expand...

I'll be sure to try that next time around with seed.. I started with clones, so those seeds were my first. Wasn't sure how the seedlings would take it at the time, but I had seen a few clones wilt right over without bags, so I was cautious..

I'm just glad to be getting feedback.

kindasobr said:

I'll be sure to try that next time around with seed.. I started with clones, so those seeds were my first. Wasn't sure how the seedlings would take it at the time, but I had seen a few clones wilt right over without bags, so I was cautious..

I'm just glad to be getting feedback.

Click to expand...

No prob. Yes the clones will wilt because of lack of roots.
Keep up the good work.

kindasobr said:

End of Week #6 for Green Crack
End of Week #4 for Afghani Reg.

I gave all plants in flower their last dose of dry fertilizer a few days before these pics were taken. I've also begun to use unsulphered molasses as a supplement. 1 Tbs / Gal @ 6.0 pH. I've only tried it on two of the Green Crack so as not to screw anything up this close to the end, but they seem to be responding well to it.

I've read that some people use it to aid in pre-harvest flush, but my research indicates that although molasses has proven nutrient value, it is also an effective chelating agent and should therefore be used with caution, since it is the overabundance of fertilizer in the soil and the chelated salts that a pre-harvest flush is used to rectify. Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

In any case, with the last of the fertilizers given nearly 20 days before the estimated harvest time, I plan to use the molasses as a watered down replacement for the top dressing fertilizer, gradually decreasing use until harvest. Thoughts?

View attachment 3546572 View attachment 3546573 View attachment 3546574 View attachment 3546575 View attachment 3546576 View attachment 3546577 View attachment 3546578 View attachment 3546579 View attachment 3546581

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be extremely careful using molasses, I've found it can screw things up more than help.
In my opinion its best to only use it as a food stock for you compost teas, if you are looking to add potassium, i'd recommend a coco-water tea.
I reaaaaally urge you not to use molasses... you may be sorry..
it can lock out nutrients rather easily.
With the size of those plants, and the nutrients in the soil, AND using just a t5, you should be golden till the end, with no more food needed.
In my opinion.
And t5s are just fine, they just don't make the nugs dense. but the potency will be good.
Just not the weight.

kindasobr said:

Thanks!

I only use the bags to ween seedlings / clones out of the humidity dome. They allow me to put them under direct light while maintaining higher humidity to keep 'em from drooping. The bags are vented every 12 hours, and I only use them for the first 2-3 days after they leave the dome.

Click to expand...

try an ez cloner, and don't transplant until you have a good wad of roots, it's the easiest, and quickest way to clone.
Get one for like 50 bucks, it's the best thing for cloning