Temp and Time questions BHO???
- Thread starter ryanmerow
- Start date
vacpurge
New Member
when all the odd sized bubbles stop, youre basically done.
when all the bubbles start to look identical, youre basically done.
at a full vac at around 100-110F, its usually 12 hours or so it enough to give it a nice purge. try a hoot... if you figure it needs more, go another day. but dont overdo it right off the bat.
usually 12-24 hours is a bit more realistic than 1-2 hours in the chamber.
12-24 hours it will come out like glass or taffy stuff.
3+ days and it will dry up and turn to wax, losing a ton of flavor. but still get ya high.
when all the bubbles start to look identical, youre basically done.
at a full vac at around 100-110F, its usually 12 hours or so it enough to give it a nice purge. try a hoot... if you figure it needs more, go another day. but dont overdo it right off the bat.
usually 12-24 hours is a bit more realistic than 1-2 hours in the chamber.
12-24 hours it will come out like glass or taffy stuff.
3+ days and it will dry up and turn to wax, losing a ton of flavor. but still get ya high.
So you guys are talking about 12-24 hours as a starting point? I assume you need to keep the heat on it the entire time. But the vacuum can I just lock the valve off and turn off the machine? Or do I need to run that for 12-24 hours?
Just to clarify, I would be using some 5x butane with a nice 60g Glass tube. Then into a pyrex dish. From there it goes onto a small 1 spot hotplate to warm it up to speed in the evaporation. Then once it gets to the caramel stage its into a 3 gallon vacuum chamber with a good vacuum.
My questions just all seem to lie in the how hot and how long area...
Just to clarify, I would be using some 5x butane with a nice 60g Glass tube. Then into a pyrex dish. From there it goes onto a small 1 spot hotplate to warm it up to speed in the evaporation. Then once it gets to the caramel stage its into a 3 gallon vacuum chamber with a good vacuum.
My questions just all seem to lie in the how hot and how long area...
vacpurge
New Member
you only need to run your pump for 5 minutes or so to achieve full vacuum, then close the valve, turn the pump off, and let the chamber do its magic for a day or so.
yes, it helps to keep heat on it the whole time, keep that oil warm and somewhat thin... because if ya dont, it turns into a thick sap that wont release any butane.
I bought a 20$ griddle from wal mart, set it on one of its lowest settings, put my chamber on it, monitor the temp and just let it sit overnight on a piece of parchment paper.
keep it at 110f or less.
yes, it helps to keep heat on it the whole time, keep that oil warm and somewhat thin... because if ya dont, it turns into a thick sap that wont release any butane.
I bought a 20$ griddle from wal mart, set it on one of its lowest settings, put my chamber on it, monitor the temp and just let it sit overnight on a piece of parchment paper.
keep it at 110f or less.
A problem I have noticed is that my 3 gallon vacuum chamber is made out of what looks like brushed aluminum. The top is about a 1 inch thick piece of plexiglass or something similar. But when I apply heat with the burner pad it ends up getting the whole vacuum chamber hot even the felt O' ring on the top where the plexi meets the metal. This is causing it to start to unglue itself. How can I get around that?
vacpurge
New Member
no thats not his problem.
I would just keep gluing the silicone gasket in place if it falls out.... the pump is sucking on the chamber so damn hard that gasket being unglued wont even matter.
I know what you mean, my vac it pro chambers handles get hot sometimes, as well as the lid and gasket too im sure.
if its getting that hot, chances are the griddle is too high and your oil is also too hot.
remember, 110f max, which isnt really that hot.
I would just keep gluing the silicone gasket in place if it falls out.... the pump is sucking on the chamber so damn hard that gasket being unglued wont even matter.
I know what you mean, my vac it pro chambers handles get hot sometimes, as well as the lid and gasket too im sure.
if its getting that hot, chances are the griddle is too high and your oil is also too hot.
remember, 110f max, which isnt really that hot.
Texas(THC)
Well-Known Member
Keep your oil as thin as possible and you can cut the purge time dramatically.
vacpurge
New Member
yeah I know what you mean and those fuckers are way way too hot. I dont even use mine anymore after getting a griddle for 20$ from wal mart.
openhorizon
Active Member
This will help achieve consistent temps
![IMG_1571[1].jpg](/data/attachments/1969/1969647-72dccd0a6d702bddea4e24e225393384.jpg)
Guzias1
Well-Known Member
the bigger the run you have, the more solvents(bubbles) you will have escaping. these solvents (BUBBLES) will fill your chamber up with gas, so you will need to re vac to get desired hg, OR bleed the chamber at desired level...
ok, so the oil still has its mysterious corners, but here are some charts i hope many really gain from
Top chart shows what we want. and what not to approach when applying heat, and/or vacuum with time.
fresh material (thc) can handle higher temps and vacuums, without decarboxylating. (decarb = turns shit into goo for life)
that being said, many people dont have access to that, and try to make old trim into nice oil, although it is possible, its damn hard, so slow and low is the go.. (or high heat goo for life is simple)
i recommend everyone who is making oil, and has some sort of connection with the source(or is the source) to tell them :fresh properly stored material produces the prettiest, smelliest extract.
now onto the bottom chart. when removing the solvents with a vacuum.
our goal is to remove the solvents, water/butane/alcohol
i think the best way to go about a safe extraction without killing your thc, is to start off at the minimal boiling points with vacuum. and judge the entire purge by the action of the bubbles being released.
my belief is in the bubbles. they tell you a lot. the big ones mean you gots a long way to go. the small ones mean you are on the final stretch :]
ALSO, when applying heat/vacuum, the higher the temps you go, the more sped up the process is. meaning, with heat, its basically like a VCR on fast-forward, and you want to stop and turn it to slow motion just before the good part!!!!.. you dont want to fast-forward through it, or else you will NEVER see the same thing you passed. ( but you will still have a good goo for life)
cheers!!
its alll in the bubbles, and an even purge.