Temperature Question

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
I'm running a 315w cmh with a cooling lens kit installed, and a mars 300w for supplemental lighting in my 4'x4'x6' flowering room. I'm getting temperatures of 84F-86F inside of my room, and temperatures of 72F-75F in my basement. I've been trying my hardest to match the temperatures in my basement, however, I cannot seem to accomplish that. I have even tried leaving the door open to my flowering room and placing a fan in the door to pull in the basement air and the temperature only got to 81F at the lowest. I'm using a 334 cfm can-fan max to pull air out of my room through my light fixture hood.

Would you guys think it's possible to reach my basement temperatures without any kind of a/c unit running?
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
I'm running a 315w cmh with a cooling lens kit installed, and a mars 300w for supplemental lighting in my 4'x4'x6' flowering room. I'm getting temperatures of 84F-86F inside of my room, and temperatures of 72F-75F in my basement. I've been trying my hardest to match the temperatures in my basement, however, I cannot seem to accomplish that. I have even tried leaving the door open to my flowering room and placing a fan in the door to pull in the basement air and the temperature only got to 81F at the lowest. I'm using a 334 cfm can-fan max to pull air out of my room through my light fixture hood.

Would you guys think it's possible to reach my basement temperatures without any kind of a/c unit running?
Where are you dumping the exhausted air?
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
Is the grow room inside the basement?
Yes. :-)

Where are you dumping the exhausted air?
Right back into the basement. I have a thermometer at my air intake/exhaust and both are showing the average basement temperatures, 72F-75F. I would have just vent out exhausted air right outside, had it actually been a problem releasing it back into the basement, however since there is no temperature increase I do not see the harm. It has to be that the bulb is still getting too hot and not get exhausted out, right? Because even when leaving my grow room door open I cannot match the average basement temperatures.
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
An intake fan and filter would help greatly.

Also, are you measuring air temps accurately or is the light shining on your temperature sensor? Radiant heat from the lamp will give you a different temperature than the air.

:leaf:
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
Yes. :-)



Right back into the basement. I have a thermometer at my air intake/exhaust and both are showing the average basement temperatures, 72F-75F. I would have just vent out exhausted air right outside, had it actually been a problem releasing it back into the basement, however since there is no temperature increase I do not see the harm. It has to be that the bulb is still getting too hot and not get exhausted out, right? Because even when leaving my grow room door open I cannot match the average basement temperatures.
Your flower room is the main source of heat so it will never drop to match the rest of the basement if you still dump the hot air into the basement. where is your intake coming from? I would figure out a place to dump that hot air. my basement is split in half by a wall and I grow on one side, dump my air on the other. I didn't used to but I was having the same heating issues, and when I got that hot air out of that side of the basement, my temps dropped.
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
An intake fan and filter would help greatly.

Also, are you measuring air temps accurately or is the light shining on your temperature sensor? Radiant heat from the lamp will give you a different temperature than the air.

:leaf:
I do use an intake fan, however, it's just a random $35 fan from lowes.. probably 150-250 cfms. I don't think a larger intake fan would help since I have tried leaving the grow room door open with a box fan propped up into to move the basement air into the room. I learned about how to properly measure the air temperature a couple of days ago, and since that time I have always made sure to leave my meters out of the light source.

Your flower room is the main source of heat so it will never drop to match the rest of the basement if you still dump the hot air into the basement. where is your intake coming from? I would figure out a place to dump that hot air. my basement is split in half by a wall and I grow on one side, dump my air on the other. I didn't used to but I was having the same heating issues, and when I got that hot air out of that side of the basement, my temps dropped.
I'm using the basement for my air intake source since it's the coolest area in my house. I have a thermometer suspended in the air where my flowering room exhausts the air back into the basement, and it's about the same as the average basement temperatures, 72F-75F. I already have a slight negative pressure inside of my room, because when the door is within 1-2 inches it will continue closing all the way itself.
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
I do use an intake fan, however, it's just a random $35 fan from lowes.. probably 150-250 cfms. I don't think a larger intake fan would help since I have tried leaving the grow room door open with a box fan propped up into to move the basement air into the room. I learned about how to properly measure the air temperature a couple of days ago, and since that time I have always made sure to leave my meters out of the light source.



I'm using the basement for my air intake source since it's the coolest area in my house. I have a thermometer suspended in the air where my flowering room exhausts the air back into the basement, and it's about the same as the average basement temperatures, 72F-75F. I already have a slight negative pressure inside of my room, because when the door is within 1-2 inches it will continue closing all the way itself.
so your air cooling your CMH? where is that intake coming from?
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
Have you tried removing the LED panel?

Do you have a circulating fan to push the hot air up and away from the canopy?
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
so your air cooling your CMH? where is that intake coming from?
I have one end of my fixture hooked up to exhaust out of the flowering room, and the other end of the fixture is open and acts like the exhaust for the room. Basically, my flowering room air is being sucked up through the light fixture and out of the room. I probably should have mentioned that it wasn't a completely closed air cooling system for the CMH.

Have you tried removing the LED panel?

Do you have a circulating fan to push the hot air up and away from the canopy?
I have not tried removing the LED panel, because when I have just the LED panel running and no CMH, my flowering room will have the SAME temperature as the basement, which kind of pin-points it exactly on the CMH.

I have a large box fan pointed upwards towards the light fixture, an oscillating fan going over and above the canopy, and a smaller 6" clip-on fan placed at random places trying to help, lol.
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
I don't doubt the HID is producing more heat than the LED, I just wondered if the two combined would put the temps over the top or not.

Does the CMH have a removable ballast?
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
I have one end of my fixture hooked up to exhaust out of the flowering room, and the other end of the fixture is open and acts like the exhaust for the room. Basically, my flowering room air is being sucked up through the light fixture and out of the room. I probably should have mentioned that it wasn't a completely closed air cooling system for the CMH.
Ah ok, so I think therein lies the problem. Your cooling your CMH with hot air essential which in turn is not cooling your CMH. Your doing the same thing I was when I set my 10x10 up, I was pulling the tent air through my hoods and dumping into the basement. I would turn your light into its own duct system, pull from the coldest place you can. If you can I'd figure out how to dump that hot air somewhere other than the basement. At night here it gets nice and cool so I pull the air in through my window. then you can set up another exhaust at the top of your tent, and use passive intake at the bottom.
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
I don't doubt the HID is producing more heat than the LED, I just wondered if the two combined would put the temps over the top or not.

Does the CMH have a removable ballast?
I previously had the ballast inside of the room, however, now I have moved the ballast outside of the room to eliminate any additional sources of heat. Having the LED panel on/off has no difference in the temperature.

Ah ok, so I think therein lies the problem. Your cooling your CMH with hot air essential which in turn is not cooling your CMH. Your doing the same thing I was when I set my 10x10 up, I was pulling the tent air through my hoods and dumping into the basement. I would turn your light into its own duct system, pull from the coldest place you can. If you can I'd figure out how to dump that hot air somewhere other than the basement. At night here it gets nice and cool so I pull the air in through my window. then you can set up another exhaust at the top of your tent, and use passive intake at the bottom.
Instead of exhausting all of the air inside of my flowering room, I now enclosed the ventilation for the cooling kit on the lighting fixture. Meaning, I have duct work that brings in air straight to the light, through the light, and back out of my flowering room. In addition to these new changes and moving the ballast outside of my room -- there has not been much difference in temperature. My thermometer which is sitting outside of the light beam is reading 82-84F.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
It will always be hotter in the room but the more air exchanged the closer it will get, upgrading the exhaust fan that just does the room will help but if you leaving the door open and a fan blowing in the air it may not help much. Your floor is concrete I assume? This is basically a heat sink but you've lost that effect in the room somewhat as well. Doubt it will get much better than what you have without cooling.
 

JohnCee

Well-Known Member
It will always be hotter in the room but the more air exchanged the closer it will get, upgrading the exhaust fan that just does the room will help but if you leaving the door open and a fan blowing in the air it may not help much. Your floor is concrete I assume? This is basically a heat sink but you've lost that effect in the room somewhat as well. Doubt it will get much better than what you have without cooling.
I basically rigged up my air intake and exhaust to run through my light fixture, which means that my actual room is not receiving any kind of ventilation, with the exception of a couple of fans moving air around. With the actual room air not being exchanged, of course except for the air random air leaks that exist in the structure of the room, it should in theory be easier to cool the room, correct?

How often do you think a small a/c unit would be kicking on and off had I set the a/c temperature to 77F? I really only need a 7-10 degree difference in my 4'x4'x6' room, and since the air is not really exchanged it should remain cooler in the room, of course until the light warms it back up eventually. I'm just trying to gauge how often I'll have to be running an a/c unit throughout the 12 hours the light is on during the day.

I never wanted to run an a/c unit, but it doesn't look like I have many other options here. Considering my ventilation holes went to running air cooling for my light fixture, would it be a bad idea just to throw a small a/c unit into the actual room, or would that running be harder to cool the room down?

Edit: I'm not sure if it's noteworthy, however, I am able to place my hand ~7 inches under my light fixture and still feel a bit of heat coming directly down, is that bad?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I basically rigged up my air intake and exhaust to run through my light fixture, which means that my actual room is not receiving any kind of ventilation, with the exception of a couple of fans moving air around. With the actual room air not being exchanged, of course except for the air random air leaks that exist in the structure of the room, it should in theory be easier to cool the room, correct?

How often do you think a small a/c unit would be kicking on and off had I set the a/c temperature to 77F? I really only need a 7-10 degree difference in my 4'x4'x6' room, and since the air is not really exchanged it should remain cooler in the room, of course until the light warms it back up eventually. I'm just trying to gauge how often I'll have to be running an a/c unit throughout the 12 hours the light is on during the day.

I never wanted to run an a/c unit, but it doesn't look like I have many other options here. Considering my ventilation holes went to running air cooling for my light fixture, would it be a bad idea just to throw a small a/c unit into the actual room, or would that running be harder to cool the room down?

Edit: I'm not sure if it's noteworthy, however, I am able to place my hand ~7 inches under my light fixture and still feel a bit of heat coming directly down, is that bad?
You really need to exchange your grow room air, you'll get way better results by not letting O2 build up and yes it will keep it cooler and possibly drier as well. Room air circulation is one of the keys to a successful grow. I have no idea how much ac would run but I would first figure out how to get the air exchanged, that may be enough to bring temps down to acceptable levels. I run 80f at times with no problems but I also run a chilled res hydro system.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I basically rigged up my air intake and exhaust to run through my light fixture, which means that my actual room is not receiving any kind of ventilation, with the exception of a couple of fans moving air around. With the actual room air not being exchanged, of course except for the air random air leaks that exist in the structure of the room, it should in theory be easier to cool the room, correct?

How often do you think a small a/c unit would be kicking on and off had I set the a/c temperature to 77F? I really only need a 7-10 degree difference in my 4'x4'x6' room, and since the air is not really exchanged it should remain cooler in the room, of course until the light warms it back up eventually. I'm just trying to gauge how often I'll have to be running an a/c unit throughout the 12 hours the light is on during the day.

I never wanted to run an a/c unit, but it doesn't look like I have many other options here. Considering my ventilation holes went to running air cooling for my light fixture, would it be a bad idea just to throw a small a/c unit into the actual room, or would that running be harder to cool the room down?

Edit: I'm not sure if it's noteworthy, however, I am able to place my hand ~7 inches under my light fixture and still feel a bit of heat coming directly down, is that bad?
You will feel the heat under the light due to radiant heat, just make sure it's not too hot. I use a fan to circulate air through the canopy but not directly on plants.
 

Enigma

Well-Known Member
Get a fan for the environment as well as the fan for the light. You have to exchange the air in the tent something on the tune of three times a minute at full growth, something adjustable would be advantageous. Make sure you allow a tolerance of roughly twenty-five percent for filtration and ducting.

4 x 4 x 6 = 96

96 x 3 = 288

(288 x .25) + 288 = 360

A fan that is capable of three hundred and sixty cubic feet per minute (CFM) would be the minimum. If money is a constraint then you can adjust the figures for clearing the air one or two times a minute (120-240 CFM respectively).

The humidity seems good for late flowering, but the early stages would benefit from higher RH.

:leaf:
 
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