SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
My plants are about weeks now and i seems they're lacking in the 'lush' category. What causes these thin and crispy leaves? It's almost as though if they were to be touched the wrong way they might crumble off.
Thin crispy leaves
- Thread starter SleepyBuds
- Start date
ExplicitKilla
Well-Known Member
I dont know that much about growing im new myself, but Ill try to help and if it dont then ignore my post.
Could your growing pot if indoor not have good drainage? This will rot your roots out.
Are you giving it to much water? I was told and heard from a few places a plant could survive a drowt over being drowned.
and are you giving it sufficient amount of lighting? If its a new plant which mine is (first plant) its doing great at the moment under 175w, but that doesn't mean its the best idea to go about, seeing as im trying to budget my grow space.
I hope one of these simple things could be your problem and helps lead u into a good fix for your youngin.. Later man and good luck
Could your growing pot if indoor not have good drainage? This will rot your roots out.
Are you giving it to much water? I was told and heard from a few places a plant could survive a drowt over being drowned.
and are you giving it sufficient amount of lighting? If its a new plant which mine is (first plant) its doing great at the moment under 175w, but that doesn't mean its the best idea to go about, seeing as im trying to budget my grow space.
I hope one of these simple things could be your problem and helps lead u into a good fix for your youngin.. Later man and good luck
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
4 26 watt 6500K 2 2700K 26 watt 1 42 watt 2700K, about to switch to 12/12 in about 2 wks. 3-6 in. away. Ph normal 2 wks ago, had them outside for a week so I'm sure that's changed the Ph. Temps range from 70-85 depending on time of day. Got a 3 liter CO2 bottle in the grow box.
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
It got pretty low during the night outside, about 45-55 depending on the night. I checked for bugs immediately after recovering them from outside, and no signs of anything. I took the plants out of the rubbermaid earlier and have them in the closet with the CFL's strung from the hanger rack just to give them some more air. I think it was getting too hot even though the temps were okay. I didnt have the thermo in/on the pot just in the corner of the box.
mogie
Well-Known Member
PLANT ABUSE
Heat Stress :
Look closely below, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Figure 1
Nutrient Solution Burn:
There's a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Figure 2
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
Figure 3 (left) and Figure 4 (right)
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
Figure 5
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.
Figure 6 (left) and Figure 7 (right)
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
Heat Stress :
Look closely below, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks alot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Figure 1
Nutrient Solution Burn:
There's a good chance that this leaf was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.
Figure 2
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this leaf (figure 3), then the plants are probably just fine. Figure 4 is definitely an over-fert problem. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Now find the cause of the high nutrient levels.
Figure 3 (left) and Figure 4 (right)
Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.
Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.
Figure 5
pH Fluctuation:
Both of these leaves in figure 6 and figure 7 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undisolvable salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower then tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.
Figure 6 (left) and Figure 7 (right)
Ozone Damage:
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
Nah they don't look like that. When I had them outside they grew like crazy and when I brought them in their growth was stunted in comparison. I'm thinking it's just getting too hot in the box. Also maybe poor airation in the soil. Gonna hook it up with some hydrogen peroxide tonight to get some O2 to the roots. Does anyone know what strength solution I should get...isn't like 20% or something?
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, got off subject for a second. So does everyone agree the thin dry leaves can be contributed to either genetics or nute lockout? When i got them from outside their leaves were fairly lush but as soon as i bring them in they get paperlike again. i havent added any nutes since bringing them in.
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
Here's a link to some pics...scroll to the bottom. Thanks for the responses.
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/8311-indoor-outdoor.html
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/8311-indoor-outdoor.html
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
A couple of days old now.
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
Over the past few days the leaves at the node sites have begun to grow in. They're still fairly small, maybe 1/2 inch, but they're growing due to the LST nonetheless. I expect to have a nice sized bud on that main stem that's horizontal.
SleepyBuds
Well-Known Member
I've moved the plants a little bit away from the lights just to give them a little break. Along with my wayering and ferting last night and moving them a little bit the leaves have 'lushed' up a little bit.