Time to transplant?

mariowarner

Active Member
Hi guys, sorry for this question as it must pop-up very often but I feel like my plant may be way ahead of its schedule. I planned to let the plants 2-3 weeks in their 16oz solo cups but I've also read that you should transplant when you see some roots coming out of the drain holes and/or the leaves reach the edge of the cup. Right now, they are 7 days from coming through the soil. Also, the leaves are twisting in a weird way... See the pics! Also, here's a link to my journal https://www.rollitup.org/t/first-grow-peakseedsbc-kush-x-skunk.981205/

Thanks a lot for your input!

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mariowarner

Active Member
Thanks for the answer! Is there something I did wrong to explain I should transplant after 7 days? Why is it that I'm ready to transplant after 1 week when mostly people transplant at 2-3 weeks with plants much taller and more developped (few pair of leaves)? My plant seems to grow very large very quick...
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Would you mind if I use that pic of yours?
It perfectly illustrates why I insist that all bags and pots be perforated at maybe 1/2" inch distances from hole to hole all over bar the two top inches of the pot or bag.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, sorry for this question as it must pop-up very often but I feel like my plant may be way ahead of its schedule. I planned to let the plants 2-3 weeks in their 16oz solo cups but I've also read that you should transplant when you see some roots coming out of the drain holes and/or the leaves reach the edge of the cup. Right now, they are 7 days from coming through the soil. Also, the leaves are twisting in a weird way... See the pics! Also, here's a link to my journal https://www.rollitup.org/t/first-grow-peakseedsbc-kush-x-skunk.981205/

Thanks a lot for your input!

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Personally I’d let them stay in there longer but i just switche to cowpots to start all my seeds in. This way I can eliminate any sort of transplant shock. You should check them out so far I’m happy with them.

https://cowpots.com/
 

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, sorry for this question as it must pop-up very often but I feel like my plant may be way ahead of its schedule. I planned to let the plants 2-3 weeks in their 16oz solo cups but I've also read that you should transplant when you see some roots coming out of the drain holes and/or the leaves reach the edge of the cup. Right now, they are 7 days from coming through the soil. Also, the leaves are twisting in a weird way... See the pics! Also, here's a link to my journal https://www.rollitup.org/t/first-grow-peakseedsbc-kush-x-skunk.981205/

Thanks a lot for your input!

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View attachment 4250618
I wouldn't call that rootbound, I had plants in a six-by-six for months because I had nowhere to put them you can wait another week or two, and I suspect the reason you're seeing roots out the holes is because you don't have great drainage, and the bottom of the cup is probably staying wet, good luck
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
most people "wrongly" believe seeing a bunch of roots on the sides of their pots is a good thing.
I normally transplant on day 10 and then 5 days after that again., going up 2 inches in pot diameter each time. The real art is in watering so that your plug is dryish when you need to handle it.
 

mariowarner

Active Member
Would you mind if I use that pic of yours?
It perfectly illustrates why I insist that all bags and pots be perforated at maybe 1/2" inch distances from hole to hole all over bar the two top inches of the pot or bag.
It's totally ok for me. So what you mean is to put aeration holes all over the solo cups until top 2"?

Personally I’d let them stay in there longer but i just switche to cowpots to start all my seeds in. This way I can eliminate any sort of transplant shock. You should check them out so far I’m happy with them.
This is a real good idea, will try this for my next grow! Is there an easy way to check when they are ready to transplant (like, when the roots are popping out of the pot?)

I suspect the reason you're seeing roots out the holes is because you don't have great drainage, and the bottom of the cup is probably staying wet
Yeah I put some holes in the bottom of the cups but I probably could have added more perlite... The bottom is definitely staying humid, but I've read that letting it dry out would kill the microorganisms living there so I water even if it's still slightly humid (not wet).

most people "wrongly" believe seeing a bunch of roots on the sides of their pots is a good thing
Forget the plant size get a root ball going before you transplant.
Well, I'm kind of confused here... I get that most pictures of transplants I see have roots going all along the sides of the pots, but isn't that the beginning of roots bounding? Compared to fabric pots (in which my plants are going for 1ga and 3ga) where the root just stops when hitting the air.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
It's totally ok for me. So what you mean is to put aeration holes all over the solo cups until top 2"?


This is a real good idea, will try this for my next grow! Is there an easy way to check when they are ready to transplant (like, when the roots are popping out of the pot?)


Yeah I put some holes in the bottom of the cups but I probably could have added more perlite... The bottom is definitely staying humid, but I've read that letting it dry out would kill the microorganisms living there so I water even if it's still slightly humid (not wet).



Well, I'm kind of confused here... I get that most pictures of transplants I see have roots going all along the sides of the pots, but isn't that the beginning of roots bounding? Compared to fabric pots (in which my plants are going for 1ga and 3ga) where the root just stops when hitting the air.
Yah generally I use rapid rooters however I like the idea they’re made from cow manure.they don’t smell and provide a little additional nutrient one they reach that stage. Yes by design they supposed to be up potted once you see roots on the outer or earlier. This is my first run with them they’re really inexpensive like 38 cents a piece. I just had 24 pop up from the soil two days ago so I’ll See how well they do.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
If you do it right, you will start with a smallish bag/pot maybe cup sized...
Each time planting up about 2 inches wider bag or pot. you will create a dandelion type rootball rather than an empty rootball with roots spun around the sides.

Try it. it is a little bit of work the first 21 days or so, after that, they can pretty much be transplanted to any size pot as they have a perfect rootball. It is torture everytime I am too busy or lazy to do it like this, to see such a loss in growth potential.

I have had pretty lengthy disagreements here with some people on the topic in my Roots thread, so I guess there are more than one outlook on the topic.
 

mariowarner

Active Member
you will create a dandelion type rootball rather than an empty rootball with roots spun around the sides
Could I achieve the same if I use a let's say 10oz fabric pot? The roots would be air pruned and create a dandelion like form?
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
If you do it right, you will start with a smallish bag/pot maybe cup sized...
Each time planting up about 2 inches wider bag or pot. you will create a dandelion type rootball rather than an empty rootball with roots spun around the sides.

Try it. it is a little bit of work the first 21 days or so, after that, they can pretty much be transplanted to any size pot as they have a perfect rootball. It is torture everytime I am too busy or lazy to do it like this, to see such a loss in growth potential.

I have had pretty lengthy disagreements here with some people on the topic in my Roots thread, so I guess there are more than one outlook on the topic.
That's alot of transplanting honestly. Once the plants are done here in these 4 inch pots the got 3 gal then to 10 gallon clothe pots. When I chop theres not a spot that isn't full of roots.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Yes, I used to be in awe of those pots but I think using a plastic pot or nursery bag with perforations is preferable as it doesn't wick the rootball dry.
If you do this with lots of plants you need about 2 inches of space between each pot to avoid high local humidity make the roots crawl out the holes.

Yes I know, 3 or 4 transplants feels crazy, but it makes really strong plants. Also keeps us crazies busy and out of trouble.
 

mariowarner

Active Member
but I think using a plastic pot or nursery bag with perforations is preferable as it doesn't wick the rootball dry.
I guess the advantage of the fabric pots would be no light coming through. But I really haven't thought about making holes on the sides as well. It's very interesting. I think I will fabricate little seedling pots using old t-shirts for my next grow. I don't mind watering more often to keep the rootball from drying out!
 

Keeprollinup

Well-Known Member
No m
It's totally ok for me. So what you mean is to put aeration holes all over the solo cups until top 2"?


This is a real good idea, will try this for my next grow! Is there an easy way to check when they are ready to transplant (like, when the roots are popping out of the pot?)


Yeah I put some holes in the bottom of the cups but I probably could have added more perlite... The bottom is definitely staying humid, but I've read that letting it dry out would kill the microorganisms living there so I water even if it's still slightly humid (not wet).



Well, I'm kind of confused here... I get that most pictures of transplants I see have roots going all along the sides of the pots, but isn't that the beginning of roots bounding? Compared to fabric pots (in which my plants are going for 1ga and 3ga) where the root just stops when hitting the air.
No my friend root ball and root bound is to completely different things. As I look at your pots give it a few more days and they will start to go in circles transplant before it gets root bound this allows the roots to go in around a 1000 different directions instead of just down creating a massive root system in your final pot.
 
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